NOVEMBER 2009 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2007 Thomas, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Oregon 45.99/492.00
Vintage after vintage, Thomas’ tiny production from his lovingly tended vineyard is snapped up immediately by dedicated fans. This is your fair warning: just like last year and every year before, this wine will sell out within hours. Thomas’s 2007 Pinot reflects all the red-fruited glory of the finest examples of the vintage, but with an unusually dense and juicy core of red berry fruit and a gorgeous, velvety mouth-feel. The wine casts a brilliant ruby color, followed by enticing aromas of cinnamon, caramel, freshly-crushed loganberries and a hint of earthy cranberries. On the palate there’s an effortless sense of elegance and finesse: the wine shows supple texture, beautifully balanced exuberant fruit, juicy acidity and supple tannins. Delicious now, this wine will be hard to keep your hands off of. Given Thomas’s excellent track record for ageability, his ’07 Pinot will undoubtedly gain depth, complexity and nuance over the next seven to ten years in your cool cellar.

2008 Ayres, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
In a very short time, Ayres Vineyard has become a major player in the Oregon wine scene by fashioning juicy, delicious, handcrafted Pinots at very sensible prices. The winery’s 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot is a blend of Dijon clones from Ayres’ Ribbon Ridge estate accented by old-vine fruit from the Eola Hills. The result is one of the most lively and deliciously accessible 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs we’ve yet tasted. A deep ruby color in the glass, the Ayres opens with snappy aromas of loganberries, cinnamon-tinged cherries and perfumed soil. Showing the balance and grace of the great 2008 Willamette Valley vintage, the Ayres Pinot continues with further waves of ripe berry fruit accented by a lovely earthy soil streak and framed by firm acidity and modest, round tannins. Lilting, elegant and delicious right out of the chute, enjoy this splendidly balanced, fruit-forward Oregon Pinot over the next two years with grilled salmon, grilled chicken, boudin blanc and everyday fare like burgers and pork chops.

FRANCE – RED

2007 Bernard Defaix, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France 15.99/171.00
Over the past decade, the Bernard Defaix domaine has earned itself a position in the top echelon of Chablis producers. From vineyards in Auxerre, only fifteen kilometers from Chablis proper, Defaix’s 2007 Bourgogne Pinot Noir conveys the wonderful marriage of Burgundian Pinot Noir on Chablis’ unique soils. A limpid garnet hue in the glass, Defaix’s Bourgogne rouge casts aromas of earthy, red cherry, cranberry and raspberry fruit. Crunchy, fresh red fruit notes greet the palate only to be joined by brisk acidity, framing, food-friendly tannins and a blast of oyster-shell limestone terroir. On its long, limestone-driven finish, the wine balances its sappy red fruit kernel with tangy acidity and further waves of light limestone minerality. Utterly delicious and versatile at the table, we suggest enjoying this beauty young to capture all of its vibrant red fruit and lip-smacking acidity. It’s a natural pair for roast chicken, duck, potatoes au gratin, salmon and light pork preparations.

2007 Jean-Maurice Raffault, Chinon, Les Galuches, Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
Cabernet Franc, the noble red grape of the Loire Valley’s Touraine sub-region, achieves a special sense of elegance on the clay, limestone and gravel soils of Chinon. Chinon’s inimitable dusty, gravelly soil signature is on full display for all to enjoy in this lovely, affordable bottling from the Jean-Maurice Raffault domaine. Raffault’s 2007 Chinon spreads the joy of the region - and the scent of its soil - with its lovely plum-ruby robe, crisp cassis fruit, gravelly terroir, and distinctive earthy, sous bois expression. A lovely choice for cool autumnal evenings, Raffault’s Chinon is juicy, delicious and ready now for steak frites, burgers, roast chicken, pork loin or other happy bistro food. Drink now or over the next five years.

2006 Jérôme Calmes, Minervois Les Vialas, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 11.50/123.00
In the hinterlands of the Languedoc lies the ancient village of Minervois and its fabled rugged terrain. Minervois’ arid climate, high altitude and rocky soils produce wines renowned for the excellence, character and value relative to their southern French peers. From Les Vialas, one of Minervois’ most prestigious crus, Jérôme Calmes had fashioned a textbook expression of the region’s rustic, hearty and delicious rouges. Opaque black-plum in the glass, Calmes’ Les Vialas casts aromas blackberry and black plum fruit infused with tarry garrigue notes of juniper and sage. Sappy on the palate and brimming with blackberry and black currant fruit, the wine transitions mid-palate to reveal fine tannins and complex notes of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. Juicy and briskly acidic, the wine finishes clean and ready for pairing now and over the next three years with grilled rack of lamb, burgers, garlicky ratatouille and grilled sausages. This is a terrific value for a first-rate Minervois.

ITALY – RED

2006 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico, Tuscany 13.50/144.50
Fattoria di Petroio, owned by American Pamela Lenzi, is already well established as an L&E and Portland favorite. Thanks to direct import pricing, Petroio’s Chiantis compete with the region’s elite, yet in our market cost half the price. Petroio’s 2006 Chianti Classico continues the estate’s streak of successes with this deep, brooding, classic Sangiovese-driven Chianti. The ’06 is defined by its dense black-plum robe, crimson rim, and a textbook Chianti Classico bouquet of tar, violets, cinnamon-tinged matsutake mushrooms and saddle leather. The Petroio’s inky color stains the palate with tarry, leathery, saturated blackberry and damson plum fruit. Restrained and elegant yet ripe, lively and transparent, the ’06 Petroio fuses deep, earthy Sangiovese fruit with notes of black cherries, lively acidity and plentiful firm, food-friendly tannins. The Petroio finishes long and earthy with complex notes of tar, leather, tobacco and fine baker’s chocolate. Pair this now and over the short term with hearty pastas, roasts and rustic casseroles featuring tomato, zucchini and potatoes. The Petroio 2006 Chianti Classico will also reward three to ten years’ patience in your cool cellar.

2007 G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 17.99/192.50
Dedicated to all that is true and authentic in Piemontese wines, the Vajra estate has fashioned a Dolcetto that’s at once both serious to aficionados of Piemontese wines and true to the grape’s humble origins. Dolcetto, or the “little sweet one,” is the wine of the people of Piemonte. Most often relegated to lesser first courses, Dolcetto can rise to the occasion and perform as a wine of uncommon deliciousness and versatility at the table. Vajra has crafted a beauty from the fine 2007 vintage. A deep plum color in the glass, Vajra’s Dolcetto casts aromas of plums, cherries and licorice. Fleshy on the attack, the wine tightens on the mid-palate, revealing fine, buffered tannins and complex notes of sarsaparilla, tar, black licorice and menthol. Juicy and appetizingly tannic, the wine finishes brisk, clean, and ready for another bite of Piemontese classics like bagna caôda, carne cruda, red pepper flan and simple risottos. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

2005 Rapalino, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Pian Romualdo, Piedmont, Italy 19.99/213.50
Rapalino’s exemplary Barbera has been a great success and a customer favorite over the years. Now we’re delighted to present Rapalino’s superb Nebbiolo, also from the esteemed high-altitude Pian Romualdo vineyard. Rapalino’s ’05 Nebbiolo opens with a dense purple-rube robe and ripe aromas of red cherries, plums, leather and bay leaf. Fleshy on the attack, the Nebbiolo’s noble tannins sneak in mid-palate and contribute structure and help project the wine’s complex expression of cloves, saddle leather, button mushrooms, macerated cherries, tar and cinnamon bark. The tannins also serve to segue the wine to its long, earthy finish – inflected with mushroom, licorice and limestone – that reminds us of some of Monforte’s esteemed Barolos. Enjoy this superb Nebbiolo over the coming decade as a companion to risotto, braised beef, grilled lamb and the heartiest pastas and vegetarian casseroles. Only 16 cases available.

WHITE WINES

OREGON – WHITE

2007 St. Innocent, Pinot Gris, Vitae Springs Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon 16.99/181.50
It’s no secret that Salem's St. Innocent Winery perennially produces some of the Willamette Valley’s finest Pinot Gris. Fascinated and inspired by the great Pinot Gris of Alsace, winemaker Mark Vlossak has fashioned another winner with his Alsatian-styled Pinot Gris from South Salem’s Vitae Springs Vineyard. Featuring a lemon gold color, the ’07 Vitae Springs jumps out of the glass with a classic, smoky, buttery nose that has become the hallmark of Oregon’s finest Pinot Gris. On the palate, the fruit is full and ample with notes of yellow plums, peaches, quince and pink grapefruit. Round in texture yet brisk, the ample palate segues to a long, dry finish featuring notes of gooseberries and fresh hops. This attention-grabbing Pinot Gris will work best at the table as a complement to classic Northwest fare such as broiled halibut and cedar-planked salmon. It will also pair withturkey and duck dishes. Drink now or over the next year or two.

2007 Eyrie Vineyards, Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon 12.50/133.50
Jason Lett is now confidently in charge at the pioneering winery founded by his legendary father. True to his father’s legacy, Jason continues to fashion elegant wines of purity, restraint and versatility at the table. Lett’s ’07 Pinot Blanc is an instant classic, fusing the golden richness of the finest Alsatian Pinot Blancs with food-friendly crispness and freshness. Straw-gold in the glass, Lett’s Pinot Blanc first entices with a smoky bouquet of chamomile and white tea. On the palate, the wine fuses Pinot Blanc’s natural fleshy pear fruit with a spicy edge, citrus zestiness and smoky minerality. Zippy and bursting with character, this classic Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc should be enjoyed now and over the coming five years with sautéed halibut, sashimi, blanquette de veau, mussels, clams and fresh oysters.

FRANCE - WHITE

2008 Domaine Labbé, Abymes, Savoie, France 12.99/139.00
Savoie’s Abymes AOC is named for the broken stones (abimes) that fall from the Alps during avalanches and thus mark its terroir. The sole permitted grape in Abymes is the Jacquère, a crisp, light-bodied grape that marries well with light, freshwater fish dishes. Labbé’s 2008 is an unusually broad, full-bodied Abymes: crisp, refreshing and bursting with lemony fruit, yet rich in texture and more muscular than its glorious 11% alcohol might suggest. Bright lemon-gold color in the glass, Labbé’s ’08 Abymes offers aromas of smoke, grapefruit and crunchy fennel. The wine’s bracing acidity plays on the palate with bright citrus and pear fruits alongside hints of anise, tarragon and minerals. Crisp, delicious and oh-so-quaffable, Labbé’s Abymes shows superb intensity and persistence. Notes of lemon, limestone and juicy acidity mark the wine’s crisp, inviting finish. We suggest pairing this refreshing rarity with oysters, scallops and white-fleshed fish dishes. Enjoy the Abymes young in order to capture all its crisp acidity and crunchy minerality.

2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 15.99/171.00
In the world of fine white Burgundy, the brothers Matrot issue some of the finest Meursaults and Puligny-Montrachets from their superb vineyards in Charmes, Perrières, Combettes, etc. We love Matrot’s wines and know that they age better and longer than some of the more recognizable names. From vines near Meursault proper, Matrot’s Bourgogne Chardonnay transcends its humble designation. A lovely straw-gold in the glass, the Bourgogne Chardonnay explodes with aromas of buttery lemon curd and dissolved limestone minerals. On the palate the wine is brisk, combining bracing acidity and a lashing of dissolved minerality with laser-like precision and deft balance. The faintest hints of vanilla bean and caramel sneak in as the wine transitions to its long lemon and mineral finish. This is a superb full-bodied white Burgundy that will work well at the Thanksgiving table and well into the next three years with broiled halibut, light poultry dishes and lighter roast pork preparations.

HUNGARY - WHITE

2008 Pannonhalmi Apátsági, Tricollis Cuvée, Pannonhalma, Hungary 11.50/123.00
The great Terry Theise never fails to amaze us. In addition to being America’s premier ambassador for Grower Champagnes and German and Austrian wines, he is now bringing us the brilliant and undiscovered wines of Hungary. The Pannonhalma is one of Hungary’s smallest wine growing regions and famed for its steep slopes. This zesty blend of Welschriesling, Riesling and Tramini (Gewürztraminer) has all of us dancing around the shop counter. Casting a brilliant green-gold hue, the Tricollis Cuvée opens with aromatic notes of crisp McIntosh apples, muskmelon, kiwi and smoky minerals. Crisp yet broad on the palate, the Tricollis Cuvée fuses the Riesling’s citrus and stone fruit notes with the Tramini’s musky litchi notes and the Welschriesling’s juicy acidity. This delicious mélange is wound together tightly with a fine lace of stony minerality. Delightful as an aperitif, we think this Tricollis Cuvée will find a home at your table with grilled vegetables, turkey, and dishes featuring onions and potatoes. Just for the fun of it, we’re going to make a goulash and see how this wine matches.

ITALY – WHITE

2008 Ernesto Picollo, Gavi di Gavi, Rovereto, Piedmont, Italy 13.50/144.50
Based on the Cortese grape, Gavi is the Piedmont’s most celebrated white wine and the one of only a handful of Italian white wines to be honored with full D.O.C.G. status. Portending the excellence of the Piedmont’s 2008 vintage, Ernesto Picollo has captured the minerally essence of Gavi, and we gratefully offer it at a most affordable tariff. Picollo’s Gavi begins with a brilliant lemon-gold color and aromas of chalky minerals, chamomile and hay. The Gavi’s attack is at first crisp and juicy, then broadens on the mid-palate to offer notes of grapefruit, crisp pears and bitter herbs. The wine finishes crisp and lip-smacking with complex notes of citrus zest, smoky minerals and almond skin, the latter of which gives the Gavi a splendid tactile grip as it lingers pleasantly on the palate. Drink young to capture the wine’s freshness, crispness and zip. Enjoy with golden trout, snapper, vegetarian frittatas, clams and halibut.

SPAIN – WHITE

2007 Martina Prieto, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain 14.99/160.00
Verdejo is the signature gape of Spain’s Rueda region, located on the banks of the Duero River just east of Ribera del Duero. Martina Prieto’s Verdejo, grown on limestone-rich soils at over 2,000 feet above sea level, opens with a Chablis-like green-gold color. On the nose, Verdejo’s fragrant nature takes center stage with aromas of grass, mint, basil, pineapple and quince. Brisk and fresh on the palate, the wine alternates waves of grapefruit and lemon citrus fruit with refreshing grassy, herbal notes and an undercurrent of limestone minerality. The Verdejo finishes clean and pure, adding hints of lime zest and salty minerality. We suggest enjoying this unique, delicious and versatile wine now and over the coming year with seafood tapas, fresh goats’ milk cheese, sautéed squashes and green vegetable frittatas or tortillas.

SPARKLING WINES

NV Rive della Chiesa Prosecco Brut, Montello e Colli Asolani, Veneto, Italy 13.50/144.50
Prosecco, the great sparkling wine sensation of Italy’s Veneto region, is rarely as fine, delicate and delicious as this fresh bottling from Rive della Chiesa. Here we have a Prosecco of delicacy, crispness and unusually fine effervescence. Fruity on the nose yet brisk on the palate, Rive della Chiesa’s Brut is everything Prosecco is supposed to be, yet so rarely is. Pale lemon-gold in the flute, the wine casts aromas of peaches, sweet lemon curd and hints of toast. Balanced, dry and undeniably delicious, this is a sparkling wine of value, refreshment and versatility. Great for holiday toasts and as a delicious aperitif, it will also complement your Thanksgiving turkey or Tofurkey, as well as the myriad of freshwater fish and light vegetable preparations. Enjoy now, frequently throughout the holidays, and well into the New Year.

NV Claude Genet, à Chouilly, Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France 39.99/427.00
Claude Genet is a genuine, card-carrying participant in the Grower Champagne movement. Genet, however, keeps a low profile and receives little fanfare in the wine press. This sneaky little fact is great news for us cost-conscious Champagne lovers, as this is one heckuva fine example of grand cru blanc de blancs fizz at an unbeatable price. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, Genet’s blanc de blancs offers classic aromas of wheat biscuits, lemon curd and yeasty brioche. Brisk on the palate with abundant mousse, tiny bubbles, plush palate presence, gorgeous lemony fruit and a persistent undercurrent of smoky, chalky terroir, this is the real deal in handcrafted Champagne. Fresh and brisk, serve this with just about anything but the reddest of meats. The wine drinks great now but is poised for another three to five years of positive evolution in your cool cellar. Grab a case now for this year’s holidays and for enjoyment over the next five years.

NV Domaine des Baumard, Crémant de Loire, Carte Turquoise Brut, Loire Valley, France 18.99/203.00
This perennial favorite sparkling wine from the Loire Valley is back. Domaine des Baumard’s Carte Turquoise offers aromas of brioche, chamomile, apples and ginger, adding a deep, earthy soil signature all its own. The Carte Turquoise’s attack is rich and creamy, gentler and more velvety than most sparkling wines. Mid-palate, the wine gains weight and richness without losing focus or vivacity. On the finish, notes of lemon, chamomile, wet straw and toast make the Turquoise perhaps the most complex and satisfying bubbly for the money.

• 2007 Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Southern Rhône Valley, France 13.99/149.50

• 2004 Tenuta di Arceno, PrimaVoce, Tuscany, Italy 11.99/128.00 reg. 16.99

• The Great L&E Beaujolais Sampler …. 160.00 per case

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m -6 p.m.
CLOSED: Thanksgiving Day, Thurs. Nov. 26

THIS MONTH'S WINES

RED WINES:
2007 Thomas Pinot Noir
2008 Ayres,Pinot Noir
2007 Defaix Bourgogne Pinot Noir
2007 Raffault Chinon Les Galuches
2006 Calmes Minervois Les Vialas
2006 Petroio Chianti Classico
2007 Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba
2005 Rapalino Nebbiolo d’Alba

WHITE WINES:
2007 St. Innocent Pinot Gris
2007 Eyrie Pinot Blanc
2008 Labbé, Abymes
2007 Matrot Bourgogne Chardonnay
2008 Pannonhalmi Apátsági Tricollis Cuvée
2008 Picollo Gavi di Gavi
2007 Prieto Verdejo

SPARKLING WINES:
NV Rive della Chiesa Prosecco Brut
NV Genet Brut Blanc de Blancs
NV Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Turquoise Brut

WEB EXTRA WINES:
2007 Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc
2004 Tenuta di Arceno PrimaVoce
The Great L&E Beaujolais Sampler

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

Nov. 6 Is there anything silkier, sexier and tastier than Volnay? Come and find out.

Nov. 20 Great wines from the Northern Rhône: Clape, Guigal, Chave, Paris, and lots of other luminaries.

Dec. 4 Italian Beauties from the Piemonte region of Italy.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

Oct. 31 Vive la France! Michel Delhommeau Muscadet, Dom. Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis, Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc, and Dom. Bressy-Masson Rasteau.

Nov. 7 Great Oregon Wines: Taste some of Oregon’s best, as we present the folks from Ayres, Biggio Hamina, Crowley, and Eyrie.

Nov. 14 Manuela Ravanelli from Winebow Imports will pour great Italian wines from Mastroberadino, Altesino, Castello di Bossi, Giacosa, and more. Plus, from France: Bernard Defaix Bourgogne Rouge, Matrot Chardonnay, Jérôme Calmes Minervois Les Vialas, and Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Les Galuches.

Nov. 21 We welcome back Pamela Lenzi of Fattoria Petroio, as she pours her beautiful, classic Chiantis. Plus, from Oregon: Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Blanc, St. Innocent Pinot Gris Vitae Springs, Ayres Pinot Noir, and Thomas Pinot Noir. And, to celebrate the holidays - Sparkling wines and Champagne: Rive della Chiesa Prosecco, Baumard Turquoise, and Genet Blanc de Blancs.

Nov. 28 We saved some of the best for last! Pannonhalmi Apátsági Tricollis Cuvée, Dom. Labbé Abymes, Martina Prieto Verdejo, Ernesto Picollo Gavi di Gavi, G. D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba, Rapalino Nebbiolo d’Alba, and Brigaldara Valpolicella.