JUNE 2010 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2008 J. Scott Cellars Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 17.99/192.50
Jonathan Scott Oberlander is crafting some attention-grabbing varietal wines from his home base on the southern fringes of the Willamette Valley. Oberlander’s ’08 Pinot Noir is a superb value, displaying a lovely, limpid ruby color and cool, fresh aromas of raspberries, cloves and vanillin oak. Brisk on the palate with dense loganberry fruit, cranberries, smoky soil and caramel, the wine shows lovely, velvety texture balanced by fine tannins and crisp acidity. Spicy, crunchy and suave on the finish, J. Scott’s Pinot reveals a depth of fruit and character rare for such a modestly priced Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. This is a heck of a value and a terrific choice for your every-day Pinot Noir needs. Enjoy this satisfying Pinot now and over the coming three years with roast pork and chicken, potatoes au gratin, or as a relaxing glass all by itself. A great value Oregon Pinot!

FRANCE – RED

2005 Château Gautoul, Cahors, Southwestern France 11.99/128.00
Cahors, known as “The Black Wine of France,” is based on the rustic, deeply colored Malbec grape. In recent years, measures have been taken by local producers to refine and make more approachable Cahors’ brooding, impenetrable nature. Château Gautoul has succeeded admirably by capturing Cahors’ dense black-plum color, the Malbec’s elusive plum- and cherry-scented fruit, and the appellation’s unbridled tar and leather terroir expression. These classic earth and leather notes play in the Gautoul’s bouquet before the wine segues to palate suggestions of plum, cherry and currant fruit. On the palate, notes of leather and an undercurrent of earthy terroir fuse with the wine’s elegant, cool fruit expression and the wine’s fine-grained and food-friendly tannins. A lovely suggestion of Asian salted plum completes the wine. This will thrill lovers of rustic, bold, character-filled reds and serve as an excellent point-counterpoint for those exploring Malbecs from Argentina. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with goose, lamb, burgers, and stews and casseroles featuring long-cooked beans.

2008 Domaine la Réméjeanne, Côtes du Rhône, Côté Levant, Rhône Valley, France 10.99/117.50
Rémy Klein is one of the most thoughtful and conscientious producers in the Côtes du Rhône. Never dogmatic, Klein is willing to try new approaches to lift the wines from his superbly situated, thirty-five hectare domaine to ever loftier heights. Klein’s hard work has earned Réméjeanne an “exceptional” rating from Robert Parker, who calls it “one of the best producers in the Rhône.” Réméjeanne’s Côté Levant, made from young-vine Grenache and Syrah, just bursts from the glass with a brilliant plum-ruby color and soaring aromas of boysenberries, white pepper, licorice and juniper. Sappy on the palate and bursting with fresh fruit flavors, the Côté Levant adds spicy cherry notes, hints of clove and garrigue, and a limestone soil undercurrent. Fresh, racy and brimming with fruit and character, this is a superb Côtes du Rhône for immediate pleasure. Serve with roast leg of lamb, pizza, burgers and southern French recipes featuring eggplant.

2007 Pascaline et Hervé Leferrer, Le Cabernet du Grand Crès, Vin de Pays d’Oc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 9.50/101.50
Hervé Leferrer was the vineyard manager at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti during the 1980s. Today he has nineteen hectares in the Corbières and crafts Languedoc wines with the Burgundian elegance he absorbed during his tenure at DRC. Leferrer’s Cabernet du Grand Crès is a lovely olive-scented Cabernet Sauvignon – seemingly a fusion of a cedary, tobacco-tinged Bordeaux from Graves and the garrigue, olive and sage that dot the Corbières landscape. In the mouth, the wine shows southern warmth and openness with the grace and fine-grained texture one finds in the fine burgundies from the Côte de Nuits. Together the match is lovely, harmonious and delicious. The Cabernet du Grand Crès drinks great by itself, but it really calls for food: burgers, steaks, and lamb off the grill or ratatouille and grilled summer squashes would be ideal. Whatever your preference, buy enough to get you through the summer, fall and into the winter. We think you’ll be reaching for this all year long, and – at its sub-$10 price tag – you can. Terrific wine!

ITALY - RED

2007 Caprili, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 20.99/224.50
In an excellent vintage like 2007, Caprili’s Rosso di Montalcino has the depth of character of a fine Brunello without the fierce tannins and requisite ageing requirements. Caprili’s Rosso begins with an opaque crimson-plum color and a heady bouquet suggesting leather, sweet tobacco, earth and cinnamon-tinged cherries. Tangy black cherry coats the palate before the wine shifts gears to reveal fine tannins and classic Brunello notes of earth, licorice and dusty terroir. The beautifully buffered tannins combine with food-inviting acidity to carry the wine from its mid-palate through the finish, where notes of dusty black cherries, plums, game, brown spices and minerally earth complete the wine. Caprili’s 2007 Rosso is a masterpiece of authentic, food-friendly Sangiovese Grosso (a.k.a. Brunello), and we can’t think of a better, more affordable complement to classic Tuscan fare. This estate is the torchbearer for all that is good, authentic and old school about Montalcino and its wines. The Rosso will also complement roast of beef, grilled lamb, eggplant, stews and rustic vegetarian casseroles. Drink now or over the coming five years.

2006 Savignola Paolina, Chianti Classico, Tuscany 13.50/144.50
With the loosening of Chianti Classico’s regulations, it’s getting harder to find classically-styled Chianti fashioned exclusively from the grapes indigenous to this hallowed region. Longtime Portland favorite Savignola Paolina has stayed true and emerged as one of Chianti Classico’s benchmark estates. We’ve long been champions of Paolina’s Chiantis and have found that with each vintage the estate’s wines get more elegant and more refined. Savignola Paolina’s 2006 Chianti Classico casts a lovely plum-ruby color from the bowl, followed by gorgeously pure aromas of sun-warmed cherries, leather, cinnamon and sandalwood. The wine’s elegant texture and vibrant fruit lifts its palate and offers notes of red cherries and fresh loganberries coupled with hints of bay leaf, menthol, sweet tobacco, vanilla bean and leather. The long, transparent, satisfying finish continues and expands on the wine’s pure red fruit theme. This lovely Chianti will delight folks who wish to drink it by itself, as well as those who prefer to enjoy it at the table. Enjoy now or over the next five to seven years with pasta dishes, beef, pizza, chicken, roast pork, or zucchini frittatas.

2008 Li Veli, Passamante, Negroamaro, Salento IGT, Puglia, Italy 11.50/123.00
Negroamaro is the unsung hero of southern Italian red wine grapes. We adore it as the principle constituent of Taurino’s Salice Salentino and Notarpanaro, but in Li Veli’s Passamante the varietal finally gets to show its nobility and strut its stuff as a solo performer. The Passamante opens with a transparent black-plum color and warm aromas of raisins, figs and licorice, On the Passamante’s spicy, chewy palate, the wine shows the Negroamaro’s aristocratic breed with distinctive suggestions of dried cherries, cigar box, sweet tobacco and star anise. On the finish, the wine sings with a kaleidoscope of nuances including tobacco, Asian five-spice, dried figs, lead pencil and a complex, utterly distinctive lash of smoky volcanic terroir. Sneaky tannins creep in and elevate the Passamante’s volcanic soil expression. Perfect with pizza Margherita, pasta tossed in a sun-dried tomato, pine nut, garlic and olive oil sauce, tomato-based casseroles and rich braised pork recipes. Enjoy now and over the next five years.

2007 Tommasi, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Vigneto Rafaèl, Veneto, Italy 15.99/171.00
Tommasi’s 2007 Vigneto Rafaèl continues the winery’s tradition of excellence. Emphasizing authenticity, the great Tommasi estate in the Veneto matches its superb vineyard sites with the exact style of wine it’s trying to create. Their terraced, six-hectare Rafaèl vineyard in the hallowed Classico zone yields textbook Valpolicellas of superb depth, character and breed. This beauty of a Valpolicella is produced from 60% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella and 15% Molinara. Aromatically, the Rafaèl sports a bright core of cherry fruit and an enticing nose of cinnamon, tar and cloves. On the palate, it conveys juicy cranberry and cherry fruit, fine tannins, superb balance and complex notes of bitter almond skin, smoky earth, menthol and spicy cloves. Firm tannins, shimmering acidity and a final suggestion of blond tobacco make this the most complete and complex Valpolicella in recent memory. Utterly delicious, Tommasi’s 2007 Rafaèl is sure to be a hit at your table with just about anything outside the seafood spectrum. There are precious few more noble, complex, delicious wines than this for less than $16.

2004 Cabanon, Bonarda, Boisée, Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardia, Italy 18.99/203.00 reg. 23.99
Whoa! This is a head-turning and most unusual red. Cabanon is a traditionally-minded, organic wine estate in Lombardy’s Oltrepò Pavese zone. This handcrafted red is made only in the finest vintages. Bonarda grapes of special ripeness are fermented in oak and then further aged in oak to balance and bring out the Bonarda’s special appetizing edge. Deep, transparent black-plum in color, Cabanon’s Bonarda Boisée casts musky walnut, leather and menthol notes from the glass. The wine offers a kaleidoscope of sensory experiences: at once fruity and inviting, then firm, bitter and appetizing, then nutty, tobacco-ey, mildly woody and complex. The entire Northern Italian red wine experience seems to be captured in this bottle: enjoy it without fuss, or ponder the wine’s many layers and complexities. You can take both paths, thanks to the wine’s reasonable tariff, so grab a case and enjoy this distinctive wine over the coming five years with egg-rich pasta dishes, braised meats, game, hard cheeses and grilled eggplant.

WHITE WINES

OREGON - WHITE

2009 Matello, Pinot Gris, Whistling Ridge Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge, Oregon 13.99/149.50
Over the past couple of vintages, Marcus Goodfellow of Matello has made quite a name for himself. Now we’re delighted to present a duo of Marcus’s outstanding, rare and very limited production white wines. Emphasizing elegance, purity and restraint, Matello’s 2009 Pinot Gris is easily among the most delicious and refreshing examples we’ve tasted of Oregon’s signature white varietal. The wine casts a classic Pinot Gris hue of pale straw tinted with slightest tinge of magenta, followed by a lovely, restrained nose of sappy hazelnuts, smoke and passion fruit. Crisp and crackling on the palate, Matello’s Gris beautifully balances opulent lemon, papaya and starfruit notes with bracing acidity and a firm underpinning of minerality. Long and refreshing, the wine finishes clean, fresh and bone dry with a Muscadet-like suggestion of saline minerality. Another brilliant wine from one of Oregon’s finest craftsmen, buy this by the case to enjoy now and over the next two years with sautéed halibut, grilled salmon, summer squashes and light poultry preparations.

2009 Matello, Caprice, Pinot Blanc-Pinot Gris, Yamhill-Carlton District, Oregon 13.50/144.50
If only to show that he’s as talented with off-dry wines as he is with dry white wines, Goodfellow issues this unusually confident Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris blend (80-20%). Matello’s Caprice wows the off-dry white wine lover in us with its opulent floral bouquet and deft balance between weight, texture, acidity and sweetness. Gorgeously ripe pear, mango, quince and passion fruit notes stain the palate, while brisk, balancing citric acidity fully cleanses the palate, leaving behind a sense of freshness, purity and harmony. This is Oregon’s answer for those of us who love what François Chidaine and Huet do in the Loire Valley, or what the Faller sisters at Weinbach do in Alsace, or what Johannes Leitz does in the Rheingau. It’s clear, it’s distinctive and it holds its own easily in such esteemed company. Enjoy now and over the coming three years with mild-spiced Thai, Vietnamese and Indian cuisine, with roasted autumn squashes or with semi-firm chèvres.

FRANCE - WHITE

2008 Champalou, Vouvray, Loire Valley, France 19.99/213.50
Didier and Catherine Champalou fashion some of Vouvray’s most floral and soil-driven wines. Their superb 2008 Vouvray begins with a lovely pale lemon-gold color and assertive aromas of flint (silex), smoke, white flowers and malt. The wine’s fore-palate is lush and velvety before it tightens up mid-palate to offer gripping Chenin Blanc acidity and a lashing of silex and limestone minerals. The wine finishes long and lingering, balancing delicately its ripe melon fruit with its smoky mineral underpinnings. A burst of further minerality and bristling citric acidity emerge at the very end of the wine’s palate impression. As with all wines from Champalou, this is a Vouvray of terrific clarity, vibrancy and minerality. Enjoy now and over the coming seven years with poached, delicately sauced fish dishes, shellfish, fresh chèvres, and light chicken preparations.

2009 Domaine de la Louvetrie, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, Loire Valley, France 11.99/128.00
Jo Landron is one of Muscadet’s undisputed superstars, and just our kind of vigneron. He farms organically, separates his cuvées by soil type, uses only indigenous yeasts for fermentation, performs minimal intervention in the winery, and has one of the most impressive moustaches in the entire Loire Valley. To top this off, Landron’s Muscadets are simply breathtaking in their purity and expressiveness. His 2009 Muscadet-sur-lie shows a bright green-glinted, lemon-gold color and intense aromas of smoky minerality, honeydew melon and freshly grated lime zest. On the palate the wine conveys a sense of ampleness and richness balanced beautifully by its bracing mineral, stone and citric notes. A core of lemon, kiwi and starfruit propel the wine’s mineral undertones and lead it to a long, smoky, terroir-driven finish. 2009 is shaping up to be the finest Muscadet vintage since 2005, if not 2002, and this wine has everything a Muscadet fan could ask for. Enjoy this superb Muscadet now and over the next four years with scallops, clams, oysters, grilled prawns and the full range of white-fleshed fish preparations.

PORTUGAL - WHITE

2009 Quinta do Correio, Vinho Branco, Dão, Portugal 10.99/117.50
We’ve featured to great acclaim Correio’s stellar Portuguese red wine. Now we have the pleasure of introducing Correio’s gorgeous vinho branco, a brisk, refreshing blend of Malvasia Fina, Encruzado, Cerceal, and Bical. Like their tinto, Correio’s white wine is pure, unadulterated and not the least bit shy. A brilliant green-tinged lemon-gold, Correio’s branco opens with smoky, mineral-scented pineapple, lemon and kiwi fruit. Bone-dry the instant it hits your palate, the Correio branco blossoms to reveal notes of gardenia blossoms and mineral-tinged suggestions of grapefruit and gooseberries. Dry and bracing on the finish, the wine deftly balances the tension between its citrus fruit core and its opulent floral top note while never losing sight of the persistent mineral undercurrent. A great wine, and a superb value to boot, we suggest enjoying this over the coming year with all things seafood, especially bivalves and cephalopods, but also with grilled summer vegetables and potato tapas dusted with smoky pimenton.

ROSÉ WINE

2009 Château Margüi, Rosé, Côteaux Varois en Provence, Provence, France 14.99/160.00
Provencal rosés have a special place in the hearts of the L&E staff. This is the second year in a row that we’ve featured Margüi’s dynamite rosé that offers real Provençal character at an unusually affordable price. Based on a blend of Grenache and Cinsault, the Margüi rosé casts a pale salmon color from the glass and inviting aromas of rose petals, watermelon and sweet Rainier cherries. In the mouth, the wine is brisk, bone dry and refreshing, with lovely floral notes mingling with hints of golden raspberries, white currants and herbal garrigue. Invigorating and undeniably delicious, this is the rosé of the season, both for quality and for value. It compares effortlessly with the very best from Bandol and Tavel at a fraction of their costs. Pair now with eggplant casseroles, bouillabaisse, grilled salmon, chicken marinated in lemon, olive oil and herbes de Provençe, and the entire myriad of seafood. Great, great rosé!

SPARKLING WINES

NV Maison Vergnes / Domaine de Martinolles, Le Berceau, Blanquette de Limoux 11.99/128.00
We were thrilled by the elegance and class of this bubbly from Maison Vergnes. A lovely gold color in the flute, the Berceau shows persistent effervescence and a flinty bouquet of lemon peel and crushed apples. The palate is creamy and assertive, with lemon and apple fruit playing with an underpinning of smoky minerals. The wine grows and blossoms in the glass, becoming richer and creamier with aeration. The Berceau’s finish shows notes of apple peel and wheat toast. This is a lovely, satisfying bubbly that offers tons of character and quality for its most affordable tariff. Enjoy now as a festive apéritif, or as a wonderful wine for toasts and celebrations. Pair with roast chicken, broiled white-fleshed fish dishes or roasted root vegetables.

2009 Gioacchino Garofoli, Guelfo Verde Frizzante, Marches, Italy 8.99/96.00
Here’s the spring wedding and summer sparkler value of the year! This lightly sparkling (frizzante) white from central Italy’s Marches region is our vote for the best value, most charming party sparkling wine on the market. Made from a blend of Verdicchio, Trebbiano, and Chardonnay, the Guelfo Verde opens with a pale straw-yellow color and aromas of honeydew melon, minerals and sugar snap peas. Dry, crisp and irresistibly quaffable, the natural sparkle lifts the wine’s pear and melon fruit and makes it super refreshing and zippy. One sip and one glance at the price tag will have you buying this wine by the case for quaffing over the coming warm weather months. Enjoy at your spring and summer celebrations as an aperitif, or paired with light fish dishes and mild semi-firm cheeses.

WEB EXTRAS: Read the complete reviews online

• 2008 Montinore Estate, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 12.50/133.50
• 2004 Rosemount, Balmoral Syrah, McLaren Vale, Australia 24.99/267.00 reg. 37.99
• 2007 Thomas Morey, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 17.50/187.00 reg. 23.99

This symbol indicates a naturally farmed wine.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website

HOURS: Mon.-Sat.
10a.m -6p.m.

Pre-Arrival Offers:
2009 Ken Wright Cellars Carter Vineyard Cuvée L&E
2009 Ken Wright Cellars Canary Hill Vineyard Cuvée L&E

RED WINES:
2008 J. Scott Cellars Pinot Noir
2005 Ch. Gautoul Cahors
2008 Dom. la Réméjeanne Côtes du Rhône
2007 Pascaline et Hervé Leferre, Le Cabernet du Grand Crès
2007 Caprili Rosso di Montalcino
2006 Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico
2008 Li Veli Passamante Negroamaro
2007 Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore
2004 Cabanon Bonarda Boisée

WHITE WINES:
2009 Matello Pinot Gris Whistling Ridge Vineyard
2009 Matello Caprice, Pinot Blanc-Pinot Gris
2008 Champalou Vouvray
2009 Dom. de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie
2009 Quinta do Correio Vinho Branco

ROSÉ WINE:
2009 Ch. Margüi Rosé Côteaux Varois en Provence

SPARKLING WINES:
NV Maison Vergnes- Dom. de Martinolles Le Berceau Blanquette de Limox
2009 Garofoli Guelfo Verde Frizzante

WEB EXTRAS:
2004 Rosemount Balmoral Syrah
2008 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir
2007 Thomas Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

June 4 Taste brilliance! 2007 White Burgundies.

June 18 It’s our legendary semi-annual Champagne tasting event.

July 2 Celebrate the Fourth of July Weekend with a tasting of the great 2008 Oregon Pinots Noir.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

June 5 A plentitude of Italian wines: Gioacchino Garofoli Guelfo Verde Frizzante, Caprili Rosso di Montalcino, Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico, Li Veli Passamante Negroamaro Salento, Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore, and the superb Cabanon Bonarda Boisée Oltrepò Pavese.

June 12 Viva la France! Domaine de Martinolles Le Berceau Blanquette de Limoux, Ch. Margüi Rosé Provence, T. Morey Bourgogne Blanc, and Ch. Gautoul Cahors.

June 19 Wines that hit the spot from the new world: Matello Pinot Gris Whistling Ridge Vineyard, Matello Caprice Pinot Blanc/Pinot, Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, J. Scott Cellars Pinot Noir and Rosemount Balmoral Syrah.

June 26 Back to France with a dazzling array of wines: Dom. de la Louvetrie Muscadet, Champalou Vouvray, Dom. la Réméjeanne Côtes du Rhône, and Pascaline et Hervé Leferrer Le Cabernet du Grand Crès.