MAY 2010 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2008 Montinore Estate, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 12.50/133.50
Family owned and adhering to the strictest organic and biodynamic principles, the venerable Montinore Estate produces classic Willamette Valley Pinot Noir exclusively from its own estate holdings. The 2008 Willamette Valley vintage is shaping up to be a classic. This lively Pinot from Montinore elegantly balances the vintage’s rich cherry and raspberry fruit with snappy acidity, earthy cranberry notes, caramel tones and fine-grained tannins. Spicy suggestions of cinnamon, menthol and clove accent the wine’s unusually pure and transparent fruit expression before yielding to a long, earthy, vanilla bean-tinged finish. At its price point, this is as good as Pinot Noir gets from anywhere in the world. Adding the fact that the wine is strictly organic makes it a ridiculous value and the perfect choice for environmentally-conscious “locavores.” Those of you who simply love a world-class, everyday-priced Oregon Pinot will love it, too!

2008 Biggio-Hamina, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
The Biggio-Hamina winery is dedicated to creating detailed, perfumed wines that unerringly reflect their varietals and their terroirs. This 2008 Pinot Noir is a deftly crafted beauty that shows the Willamette Valley Pinot’s signature smoky-earthy cranberry fruit alongside freshly-crushed cinnamon brightness. A gorgeous transparent garnet color in the bowl, the Biggio-Hamina Pinot soars with pure perfumed cinnamon and raspberry fruit. On the palate, the wine is at first silky and bursting with red fruit purity, but then firm, spicy tannins emerge and give the wine a whole new dimension. The wine finishes as bright, pure and honest as it began. We love this style of Pinot: bright, red-fruited and Chambollesque, and we encourage you to enjoy this now and over the coming three years with broiled and grilled salmon, roast chicken, grilled summer squashes and braised rabbit.

CALIFORNIA – RED

2004 Beringer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California 23.99/256.00 reg. 37.99
Napa’s great Beringer Winery continues to issue the classic Cabs that made it famous so long ago. Beringer's beautiful, polished 2004 Napa Cab continues the winery’s grand tradition. Opaque plum in the glass, Beringer’s 2004 Napa Cab bursts with cedar-scented plum and cassis fruit. Velvety and supple on the attack, the Cab quickly broadens to reveal notes of prunes, vanilla, cloves, pencil shavings and black cherries. Plentiful superfine tannins emerge on the back-palate to segue the wine to a long, lush finish featuring reprises of dried plum and dried cherry fruit accented by hints of Belgian chocolate, vanilla bean, cinnamon and graphite minerality. This is classic, textbook Napa Cab for a song, and will be a terrific partner over the coming decade to standing rib roasts, duck, lamb…even grilled hamburgers. Buy this superb, recession-priced Cab by the case!
90 pts. - Wine Spectator

FRANCE – RED

2007 Château Peybonhomme les Tours, Premières Côtes de Blaye, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France 17.99/192.50
The 2005 vintage of this wine became an instant sensation when we featured it several years ago. We loaded and reloaded until our distributor ran out of stock. After a long wait, we’re delighted to feature Peybonhomme’s 2007, and it’s a more-than-worthy successor. Like the 2005, this is pure, unadulterated, authentic and organic red Bordeaux. Differing from the 2005, this 2007 exhibits greater transparency and a truer soil expression. A beautiful plum-ruby color in the glass, the 2007 Peybonhomme les Tours offers old-school Left Bank aromas of red plums, cassis, tobacco, fresh herbs and mocha. On the palate, the wine’s pure plum expression yields to a riveting clay-limestone soil signature, firm tannins, and complex notes of bitter chocolate, cigar box, spicy cinnamon and herbs. An absolute joy to drink, this is the most food-friendly and affordable Bordeaux to cross our radar in some time. Enjoy it now with heartier cuisine like roast beef, leg of lamb, braised rabbit or eggplant-rich casseroles. Better yet, give it a few years to a decade in your cellar to let the brisk tannins melt into the wine’s brilliant core of cassis and plum fruit. A red Bordeaux for graduates of the Old School.

2005 Domaine des Pentes Rouges, Chinon, Loire Valley, France 12.99/139.00 reg. 15.99
2005 was such a magnificent vintage in Chinon. Capturing all the harvest’s ripeness and class, the Domaine des Pentes rouge has issued a wonderfully scented Chinon that seamlessly fuses juicy cassis fruit with Chinon’s inimitable herb, tobacco and gravel terroir signature. An opaque plum-garnet color, the Pentes Rouges Chinon’s nose alternates waves of tarry cherry and cassis fruit with complex hints of fresh herbs and spicy tobacco. In the mouth the wine stains the palate with intense cherry fruit accented by overtones of menthol and sweet tobacco. Fresh and lively on the finish, the fruit brightens, tannins emerge and beg you to take another bite of roast chicken, grilled hanger steaks or burgers, braised pork or potato-rich vegetarian preparations. Enjoy now for the wine’s bright, spicy fruit expression, but buy enough to cellar for five to seven year’s evolution.

2008 Brotte, La Grivelière, Côtes du Rhône, Tête de Cuvée, Rhône Valley, France 9.50/101.50
Do you ever long for the happy days of sub-$10 Côtes du Rhônes that offered brilliant red fruit character accented by subtle garrigue-inflected herbal notes? If so, here’s your ticket back to that glorious era. The prominent Châteauneuf négociant Brotte has crafted this amazing value that drinks superbly well by itself, but is a terrific partner to everyday fare like burgers and pizza. Transparent ruby in the glass, the Grivelière Côtes du Rhône casts bright aromas of freshly crushed loganberries, Morello cherries, menthol and black pepper. Sumptuous on the palate, yet showing a superb acidic backbone, the Grivelière Côtes du Rhône adds notes of cinnamon, wintergreen, sarsaparilla and spicy vanilla. Fine tannins sneak in on the wine’s long finish and make for a wine to drink with gusto and enjoy with abandon. Don’t let the price fool you: this a heck of a fine Côtes du Rhône rouge that’s best enjoyed now and over the coming three years.

PORTUGAL - RED

2007 Casa Santos Lima, Palha-Canas Tinto, Estramadura, Portugal 10.50/112.50
Casa Santos Lima’s Portuga branco is one of our best loved everyday white wines. Those of you who have come to share our admiration for this affordable, aromatic wonder will understand when we say that this Palha-Canas tinto is the red wine equivalent to the Portuga: it’s bright, it’s terrific with a broad range of foods, but most of all it’s utterly distinctive. Opaque black-ruby in the glass, the Palha-Canas tinto casts spicy aromas of cured meat, dried herbs, root bark and perfumed clay soil. A blend of indigenous Portuguese varietals (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Castelão, Camarate, and Tinta Roriz) the Palha-Canas continues on the palate with tarry cherry and black plum fruit alongside complex notes of vanilla, baker’s chocolate, cigar tobacco, birch bark, bay leaf and cedar. Fine tannins and plentiful acidity carry the wine from its spicy palate presence to its long root- and dark spice-tinged finish. A refreshing change that’s far from the ordinary, we suggest pairing this much as you would a fine Rhône wine with grilled lamb, beef and eggplant.

AUSTRALIA - RED

2004 Rosemount, Balmoral Syrah, McLaren Vale, Australia 24.99/267.00 reg. 37.99
From very old vines in the McLaren Vale region of South Australia, Rosemount has crafted a gorgeous, blueberry and nutmeg-scented Syrah that offers the kind of complexity and balance found in Syrahs and Shirazes three times its price. Don’t take our word; here’s what Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate has to say: “The 2004 Balmoral Syrah is 100% Shiraz aged for 18 months in American (80% new) and French oak. Purple-colored, it delivers an expressive perfume of cigar box, cocoa, violets, incense, and blueberry. Medium to full-bodied and sweetly-fruited, it has layers of savory blue and black fruit flavors, enough structure to evolve for several more years, and a lengthy, pure finish. Drink it from 2011 to 2019.” Parker awards it 90 points, as does Stephen Tanzer; the Wine Spectator takes it a notch up to 91 points. All we can say is that this is a smokin’ wine that fires on all cylinders and an amazing deal that will likely never be seen again. Buy by the case!

WHITE WINES

OREGON - WHITE

2007 Willamette Valley Vineyards, Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon 11.50/123.00
Dry Riesling is one of the trickier categories in Oregon wine. Fortunately, Willamette Valley Vineyards have made it a specialty, and their love for the genre shows in this brilliant green-gold, hillside-grown Riesling. The 2007 Dry Riesling opens with exotic aromas of Asian pear, vanilla bean, white peaches and honeysuckle blossoms. Crisp, smoky and bone dry, the wine wakes up the palate with pure golden raspberry fruit and a smoky, iron-rich mineral undercurrent. Honeydew melon and green kiwi notes emerge on the bristling finish. Beautifully balanced and dry, dry, dry, enjoy this superb example of Oregon Riesling now and over the coming two years with poached white-fleshed fish recipes, light chicken preparations, shellfish, and grilled or sautéed summer vegetables.

FRANCE - WHITE

2009 Domaine de l’Idylle, Cruet, Savoie, France 11.99/128.00
With their low alcohol and high refreshment quotient, the Jacquère-based wines of the Savoie are among our summer favorites. Pale green-gold in the glass, l’Idylle’s Cruet explodes with vanilla-scented pear accented by a lively mineral pungency. Bright and lively on the palate, the wine’s transparent fruit expression is accented by white pepper and basil notes, followed by a riveting smoky limestone undercurrent. Brisk, bracing and ready to be enjoyed all summer long, we suggest offering this as an eyebrow-raising apéritif, or serve as a lovely partner to shellfish, crustaceans and white-fleshed fish. It will also be a terrific choice with tangy goat cheeses, scalloped potatoes, and grilled summer squashes. Be sure to buy plenty for summer, but finish your stash over the next year.

2008 Domaine Baron, Sauvignon, Les Vieilles Vignes, Touraine, Loire Valley, France 9.99/107.00
It’s wonderful to find a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc that offers a lot of Sancerrois character for a down-to-earth price. From the greater Touraine region just to the west of Sancerre comes this spine tingling, old-vine Sauvignon Blanc. Light lemon-gold in the glass, Domaine Baron’s Sauvignon casts undeniably herbal aromas of cut grass, crushed basil, peat and lemon thyme. Crisp and bristling with dissolved minerality, the wine segues to reveal a core of white grapefruit, sappy pine nuts and mint. The wine finishes fresh, juicy and zesty, with an electric current of citrus fruits and chalky minerals. This is a Sauvignon Blanc that drinks like a wine twice its price. Enjoy now and over the coming two years with oysters, mussels, clams, freshwater fish and sautéed green vegetables. Terrific Sauvignon Blanc!

2007 Thomas Morey, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 17.50/187.00 reg. 23.99
Boy is this an auspicious debut! Thomas Morey, of the prominent Morey family of Chassagne-Montrachet, has crafted this declassified Chassagne-Montrachet from two separate plots within the commune of Chassagne. The Moray Bourgogne blanc casts lovely lemon-gold in the glass and classic white Burgundy aromas of limestone terroir, sappy hazelnuts and buttery lemon curd. The classic Chassagne white flower highlights emerge upon tasting and segue to suggestions of lemon zest, white currants and perfumed, limestone-driven minerality. Crisp and elegantly proportioned, the wine finishes with an added lashing of limestone minerals, crunchy acidity and a soft suggestion of vanilla bean. Thomas Morey is adding to the legacy of the great Morey family: this “entry-level” offering will delight fans of pure, graceful Chassagne-Montrachets. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with light poultry and pork dishes, blanquette de veau, halibut, and other mild white-fleshed fish preparations.

ITALY - WHITE

2008 Primosic, Ribolla Gialla, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 12.50/133.50
Ribolla Gialla is one of Friuli’s most historically important white grape varietals. After many years of losing ground to the classic French varietals Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris (Grigio), Ribolla is making a comeback. Who can resist Ribolla’s juicy lemon and herb expression, or its firm acidity, or its ability to translate its soil’s mineral expression into the glass? Primosic has taken all of Ribolla’s unique citrus and acacia personality and produced a stunning summer white. Showing a pale straw color in the glass, the wine yields aromas and flavors of lemon, chamomile, basil and pungent minerals. Juicy, ripe acidity projects its bright citrus fruit core and leads the Primosic to a long, crisp finish suggesting lemon curd and rubbed thyme. We recommend enjoying this Ribolla young to capture all of its youthful enthusiasm. Serve with summer vegetable dishes, seafood risottos, and light fish preparations.

2008 Fattoria di Fèlsina, Pepestrino Toscano IGT, Tuscany, Italy 12.50/133.50
Most of us know the great Fèlsina wines through their superb range of Chiantis. Blending Trebbiano Toscano with 15% each of the French varietals Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Fèlsina has crafted a white wine worthy of its hallowed name. Pale lemon gold with green highlights, Fèlsina’s Pepestrino casts crisp aromas of lime zest and freshly cut grass. Broad on the palate, and showing a sappy hazelnut quality thanks to its Chardonnay component, the Pepestrino opens to reveal the light waxy texture of its Trebbiano core and a grassy, herbal top note from its dollop of Sauvignon Blanc. Suggestions of pineapple, mango, camphor and cinnamon emerge with aeration to make this one heck of a complex and refreshing choice for warm weather enjoyment. Drink now and over the coming year with traditional antipasti, roast chicken, cod fritters and vegetable frittatas.

2008 Icardi, Cortese L’aurora, Piedmont, Italy 14.99/160.00
Year in and year out, Icardi’s L’aurora bottling is the textbook example for the traditional Piemontese varietal Cortese. The L’aurora is particularly delicious, zippy and complex in the 2008 vintage, offering an exotic bouquet of pineapple, Meyer lemon and passion fruit. On the palate, the Cortese segues to a zippy, fruit-filled mouthful suggesting mango, guava and smoky minerals. The wine finishes clean with added notes of wintergreen, cinnamon and lemon balm. The L’aurora gives a riper more complex impression than the average Cortese, but it keeps all its tropical exuberance in check with racy acidity and a nervy current of limestone minerals. Enjoy now and over the coming year with freshwater fish dishes, turkey, grilled squash and vegetarian lasagna with a béchamel sauce.

GREECE – WHITE

2009 Skouras, White, Peloponnese, Greece 8.99/96.00
With the transition to modern viticultural and vinification methods, the ancient wine power, Greece, is again asserting itself as an important source for distinctive red and white wines. From Skouras, one of Peloponnese’s most important estates, comes this delightful, aromatic and distinctive blend of the indigenous varietals, Roditis (60%) and Moscofilero (40%). Showing a brilliant, pale straw-gold color accented by green glints, the Skouras white offers lively aromas of tangerine, honeydew melon, chamomile and smoky volcanic minerals. The wine is crisp, fresh and assertively mineral-driven on the fore-palate, while its brisk lemon, pink grapefruit, green melon, menthol and crisp apple flavors mark its clean mid-palate. On the finish we find reprises of tangerines and eucalyptus before the Skouras yields to a long, minerally finish. We think this will be a fantastic match for grilled prawns, calamari and other seafood. Drink now or over the coming two years.

ROSÉ WINE

OREGON – ROSÉ

2009 Apolloni Vineyards, Rosé, Oregon 13.50/144.50
Hot on the tails of last month’s superb Pinot Bianco from Apolloni Vineyards, we’re thrilled to present the winery’s brand new rosé. A creative blend of Pinot Noir and Viognier, this rosé is deeply colored, almost vermillion. A floral note greets the nose and segues to a palate filled with bright strawberry, earthy cranberry and juicy watermelon fruit. The tart earthiness of the wine’s Pinot Noir core is beautifully accented by the opulent, floral and peppery character of its Viognier component, and yields a crowd-pleasing wine that’s refreshing, satisfying and oh so delicious. Enjoy by itself during the upcoming warm-weather season or, better yet, pair with simple, everyday fare like roast chicken, grilled burgers, salmon, pastas and casseroles. Drink now and over the coming year.

We are closed for Memorial Day, Mon. May 31

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

HOURS: Mon.-Sat.
10a.m -6p.m.
CLOSED: Mon. May 31

THIS MONTH'S WINES

Pre-Arrival Offer:
2009 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Canary Hill Cuvée L&E

RED WINES:
2008 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir
2008 Biggio-Hamina Pinot Noir
2004 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Ch. Peybonhomme les Tours Premières Côtes de Blaye
2005 Dom. des Pentes Rouges Chinon
2008 Brotte La Grivelière Côtes du Rhône
2007 Casa Santos Lima Palha-Canas Tinto
2004 Rosemount Balmoral Syrah

WHITE WINES:
2007 Willamette Valley Vineyards Dry Riesling
2009 Dom. de l’Idylle Cruet
2008 Dom. Baron Sauvignon Les Vieilles Vignes
2007 Thomas Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay
2008 Primosic Ribolla Gialla
2008 FFèlsina Pepestrino
2008 Icardi Cortese L’aurora
2009 Skouras White

ROSÉ WINE:
2009 Apolloni Rosé

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

May 7 Taste the superlative wines from Clarendon Hills Winery in Australia. Piggot Range and Astralis will be just two of the wines served.

May 21 A tasting of 2006 Bordeaux.

June 4 Taste brilliance! 2007 White Burgundies.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

May 1 Meet Johannes Selbach of Selbach Oster and sample some of Germany’s finest wines.
Plus, from Italy: Fattoria di Fèlsina Pepestrino Toscano, Primosic Ribolla Gialla Friuli, and Icardi Cortese L’aurora Piedmont.

May 8 From France: Dom. de l’Idylle Cruet Savoie, Dom. Baron Sauvignon Touraine, Thomas Morey Bourgogne Blanc, Brotte La Grivelière Côtes du Rhône, Dom. des Pentes Rouges Chinon, and Ch. Peybonhomme les Tours Bordeaux.

May 15 From Oregon: Apolloni Vineyards Oregon Rosé, Willamette Valley Vineyards Dry Riesling, Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, and Biggio-Hamina Pinot Noir.

May 22 Taste the superb olive oil and wines from Manucci Droandi. Plus: Casa Santos Lima Palha-Canas Tinto, Skouras White Peloponnese, Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, and Rosemount Balmoral Syrah.

May 29 Start your Memorial Day weekend with a scintillating selection of 2008 Oregon Pinots.