OCTOBER 2011 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2008 Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Laurène, Willamette Valley, Oregon 60.99/651.50
The 2008 Laurène will be a wine for the ages. Josh Raynolds (Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar) writes: “Captivating, highly perfumed aromas of raspberry, pepper, Asian spices, cocoa powder and rose; brighter and more precise than the regular bottling. Then juicy and penetrating in the mouth, with brilliantly fresh raspberry and wild strawberry flavors that stain the palate. Finishes tangy and long, with a whiplash of mineral-accented red fruits and flowers. This one really calls for a decade of aging, even if there's plenty to like now.”
Tanzer—93 points
Parker—92 points

2009 Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 37.99/ 406.00
A gorgeous, limpid ruby robe leads to a classic DDO Pinot nose of earthy cranberries, red raspberries, rose petals and subtle vanilla bean. The wine coats the palate with velvety Pinot fruit leaning to the red fruit spectrum of pie cherries, red raspberries and red currants. A persistent undercurrent of earthy minerality comes to the fore on the wine’s long, lush finish. As long-time DDO fans know, Véronique Drouhin never misses, but her 2009 has the up-front fruit and texture to be enjoyed young while also packing the stuffing and definition to ensure at least a decade’s evolution in your cool cellar. Pair with broiled salmon, roast duck and chicken and hearty potato preparations. A must-buy for all fans of DDO pinot.

2010 Evesham Wood, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 16.99/181.50
The long cool 2010 growing season has yielded one of the most aromatically compelling Evesham Wood Willamette Valley pinots in memory. Always a great value, this year’s release captures the freshly crushed red berry nature of the vintage alongside elegant structure and earthy minerality. Translucent ruby in the glass, Evesham Wood’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir offers pure, deep aromas of cranberries, red raspberries, button mushrooms and smoky soil. Vivid and transparent on the palate, the wine’s sweet raspberry fruit meshes with earthy soil notes, brisk acidity and fine tannins before segueing to a long, sappy red-fruited finish. Pure and simply a joy to drink, make this your Oregon Pinot Noir selection for the fall and winter. It will also gain weight and complexity with another two to five years in the bottle. Pair with just about anything but shellfish and acidic vegetables.

FRANCE – RED

NV Le Petit Vin d’Avril, Vin de Table de France 13.99/149.50 reg. 18.99
Paul Avril is a legend in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. His Clos des Papes estate releases reference-standard red and white Châteauneufs vintage after vintage. Avril’s introductory wine is this humble, gracious vin de table that is fashioned to be stunningly delicious and versatile. A blend of the 2009 and 2010 vintages, the Petit Vin features Cabernet Sauvignon blended with the traditional Rhône varietals Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. What we love about this “Petit Vin” is that it offers “Grand Vin” aromas of sweet cherries, crushed herbs and leather. Soft and easygoing on the palate, the sweet red fruits make for easy bistro-style quaffing that doesn’t insult your intelligence. At its humble price tag, one can quaff this as one would at a bistro in Paris or Avignon and not worry about the tab. An eminently food-friendly wine, the Petit Vin d’Avril will make a perfect red to transition from summer to fall and will keep you warm all winter long. So be sure to pick up enough to get you though the coming cooler weather. Pair over the next year or two with everything from pizza to chicken, pork to lamb, pasta to burgers; this is perfect food wine.

2007 Château Cap de Merle, Lussac St.-Emilion, Bordeaux, France 11.99/128.00
The region of Lussac Saint-Emilion shares its more famous sibling’s favor for the Merlot grape. At Cap de Merle, the blend is 80% Merlot accented with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. In the approachable 2007 vintage, Cap de Merle has fashioned a beauty of a right-bank Bordeaux. A lovely plum-ruby color in the glass, the Cap de Merle opens with classic aromas of spicy plums, chocolate, cedar and gravelly earth. Supple on the palate, the wine caresses the palate with plump cherry and plum fruit accented by a food-friendly accent of dried herbs and tobacco. Long and silky on the finish, the Cap de Merle closes with further herbal notes of camphor, gravelly earth and a finishing wave of velvety plum fruit. At the prices that Saint-Emilions command these days, it’s a true pleasure to offer a wine that gives so much of what makes Saint-Emilions so famous at a fraction of the price. Enjoy now and over the next five years with rib roast of beef, roast chicken, duck and hearty potato casseroles.

2008 Domaine Guillot-Broux, Mâcon-Cruzille, Burgundy, France 13.99/149.50
In southern Burgundy as the Mâconnais transitions to the Beaujolais, one finds plantings of the Gamay grape on the region’s clay-limestone soil. Guillot-Broux’s Mâcon-Cruzille is 100% Gamay, and the resulting wine is a lovely, peppery rouge with great transparency and focus. The wine opens with a transparent garnet color and aromas of white pepper, cloves and limestone dust. Light as a feather on the palate, the wine’s lacy delicacy recalls a Poulsard from the Jura, but with a more prominent red berry fruit kernel. Long, spicy and begging for food, the Mâcon-Cruzille’s finish is graceful and elegant with further waves of red fruit alongside suggestions of Szechuan peppercorns, cloves and sous bois. A delicious, light-bodied, character-filled Gamay that will make a terrific counterpoint to wines from the great Beaujolais crus. Serve with roast chicken and duck-fat potatoes, burgers, charcuterie and salumi, light pastas, mac-n-cheese. Enjoy now and over the coming two years.

2008 Beauthorey, Bella Parra, Coteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 15.99/171.00
reg. 18.99
Wow, this is one wild wine! Christophe Beau’s Beauthorey winery is working biodynamically with the full spectrum of modern and historical Languedoc varietals. From the estate’s oldest vines hails this blend of Syrah and indigenous Oeillade, an opaque, wildly-scented red wine that captures the essence of the arid Languedoc. A black-plum robe leads to a hair-raising bouquet of plums, cherries, parched earth, mushrooms and dried herbs. Lush and velvety on the palate, the wine walks the tightrope between earthy, wild garrigue-driven herbal overtones, and silky, totally delicious black fruit. Enjoy only with the heartiest of fare: hare, game, elk, venison, pâtés, organ meats, salumi, eggplant casseroles as well as everyday fare like burgers, pizza, and pasta topped with rich sauces. Drink young to capture all the Bella Parra’s wild, untamed glory.

2008 Mas del Périé, Les Escures, Malbec, Cahors, Southwestern France 15.99/171.00
Cahors, the black wine of France; beloved by our clientele and cardiologists alike. Artisan-vigneron Fabien Jouves is doing all the right things in this rugged area of France. He farms organically, stays true to his terroir, and allows modern vinification techniques to benefit his labors. Dense black-plum in the glass, this Malbec from Mas del Périé’s Les Escures opens with a delicious bouquet of black plums, cassis, black cherries and stony terroir. Velvety and lush on the attack, the wine plays the Malbec’s dense black fruit expression against a bright, palate-livening texture. Hints of black licorice, violets and anise join the wine’s impressive black fruit core on its long, velvety finish. This is modern Cahors that never loses sight of its terroir or its traditions. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with cold-weather fare like roast goose, duck, braised rabbit, potato galettes, and good ol’ roast beef. Magnificent!

ITALY – RED

2007 Sella & Mosca, Cannonau di Sardegna, Riserva, Sardinia, Italy 13.50/144.50
Cannonau is Sardinian dialect for the varietal better known as Grenache in France and Garnacha in Spain. In Sardinia it achieves a very special expression that stays true to the grape yet conveys a cinnamon-tinged earthiness unique to the island. The estate’s 2007 Riserva opens with a beautiful translucent garnet-cinnamon color followed by a heady bouquet of cherries, cinnamon, camphor and underbrush. Graceful in weight yet bold in flavor, the Cannonau adds suggestions of black cherries, juicy figs and smoky minerality accented by a haunting earthy note. The wine finishes long and soil-driven, showing fine, buffered tannins, snappy acidity, and delicious notes of cloves, leather, porcini mushrooms and blond tobacco. Lovers of southern French Grenache need to try this wine to compare it with their favorites from Chateauneuf and Gigondas. Lovers of bold, earthy reds will find it a delight and a comfortable value. Enjoy now or through 2015 with dishes featuring tomatoes, eggplant, garlic, lamb, and game.

2009 Musto Carmelitano, Maschitano Rosso, Basilicata IGT, Southern Italy 13.99/149.50
Emphasizing organically grown Aglianico and gentle handling in the winery, Carmelitano’s Maschitano Rosso features fruit from the estate’s younger vines fashioned for early enjoyment. Deep black-plum in the glass with a crimson-orange rim, the Maschitano Rosso opens with classic Aglianico aromas of plums, black cherries, pipe tobacco, herbs and volcanic minerality. Carmelitano has tamed the Aglianico’s fierce tannins, allowing for a wine that emphasizes a kernel of bright black fruits accented by fine tannins, brisk acidity and a smoky soil signature. The wine finishes as bright and delicious as it began, with a haunting anise note that lingers alongside a closing wave of smoky, volcanic minerals. This is a fantastic value in ready-to-drink Aglianico. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with game, rabbit, beef, and lamb. It will also pair nicely with hearty eggplant dishes, mature cheeses, and pastas tossed with a slow-simmered tomato sauce. Great wine!

2009 Poggio Romita, Chianti Il Fiorino, Tuscany, Italy 11.50/123.00
New to our radar, Poggio Romita estate enjoys an interesting position, straddling the boundaries of the Chianti Classico and the Colli Fiorentini. Despite the estate’s privileged location, because it overlaps two denominazioni it must bear the humble Chianti designation. But you would never know that from what’s in the bottle! A lovely, limpid black cherry color in the glass, Poggio Romita’s Il Fiorino – a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo – casts textbook Chianti aromas of sun-warmed cherries, leather and herbs. Suave and velvety in the mouth, the wine alternates waves of cherry and plum fruit with Sangiovese overtones of leather, game and mushroomy underbrush. Earthy limestone minerality appears as the wine transitions to its long, focused and silky finish. Obviously crafted for immediate pleasure, serve this superb Chianti and terrific value now and over the coming three years with grilled beef, burgers, pizza, pastas, and casseroles featuring zucchini or eggplant.

WHITE WINES

AUSTRIA – WHITE

2009 Schloss Maissau, Ewald Gruber, Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria 11.99/128.00
The great Grüner Veltliner is the staple grape of the Weinviertel, Austria’s largest winegrowing region. The Schloss Maissau, just an hour northwest of Vienna, is known for its granite, sandstone and loess soils on the southeast slope of Mount Manhart. The Veltliner loves deep loess soils, and this special match of varietal and terroir is on full display in the comfortably priced Grüner from Schloss Maissau. A brilliant green-gold robe in the glass leads to classic Grüner Veltliner aromas of green beans, white pepper, lemon zest and freesia. Plump and refreshing on the palate, the wine meshes fleshy pear and juicy lemon fruit with the Veltliner’s inimitable lentil and pepper tones. Long and clean on the finish, the citrus fruit transitions to a delicious yellow apple expression atop an undercurrent of smoky soil. This is a delicious and very well priced Veltliner that will pair with just about everything but red meats. Enjoy now and over the next three years.

FRANCE – WHITE

2010 Marigny-Neuf, Sauvignon Blanc, Western Loire Valley, France 10.50/ 112.50
There’s no place in the world that can grow Sauvignon Blanc like the Loire Valley. While Pouilly-Fumes and Sancerres can be a bit pricey, there are great alternatives that don’t break the bank. Enter this beauty from Marigny-Neuf from the Poitiers zone about an hour south of Chinon. The limestone soil here elevates the Sauvignon Blanc and gives it a finesse and clarity. Lovely straw-gold in the glass, the Marigny-Neuf Sauvignon explodes with aromas of lime zest, gooseberries and limestone dust. Brisk and lip-smacking in the mouth, the grassy, basil-inflected citrus fruit is energized by a ripping undercurrent of flinty, limestone minerality. Fleshy mid-palate and all the way through to the finish, the wine retains superb focus, a core of juicy grapefruit and lime fruit and persistent waves of limestone minerality. This is incredible Sauvignon Blanc and a terrific value. We’ll be buying this for ourselves and will pair it with pan-roasted mussels, oysters on the half-shell, poached freshwater fish dishes with a beurre blanc sauce, fresh chèvres, light salads, and sautéed vegetables. It will also make a superb aperitif.

2009 Domaine de la Louvetrie, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, Hermine d’Or, Loire Valley, France 12.99/139.00
Jo Landron is one of Muscadet’s undisputed superstars, and just our kind of vigneron. His Muscadets are simply breathtaking in their purity and expressiveness. Landron’s 2009 Muscadet Hermine d’Or shows a bright green, lemon-gold color and intense aromas of honeydew melon, freshly grated lime zest and pungent, Savennières-like minerality. On the palate the wine conveys the ampleness and richness of the warm 2009 vintage balanced beautifully by bracing acidity, intense minerality and a core of freshly-squeezed lemon and lime. This beauty shows the kind of impressive acidity and structure that makes Muscadet aficionados swoon. Enjoy now and over the next decade with scallops, clams, oysters, grilled prawns and the full range of white-fleshed fish preparations. For the curious: the Hermine d’Or neck label designates a Muscadet cuvée that performs at the top of its class at a very competitive and rigorous blind taste test for typicity, minerality and ability to age. This wine outperforms all expectations.

2010 Domaine Bernard Defaix, Petit Chablis, Burgundy, France 15.99/171.00
2010 is shaping up to be a fantastic Chablis vintage, one that combines great purity of fruit with ample acidity and texture. Following on the heels of last year’s success with Defaix’s Petit Chablis, we’re delighted to present his newly released 2010, a wine of extraordinary character and value from vineyards just on the outskirts of the Chablis region proper. Brilliant green-glinted lemon-gold in the glass, Defaix’s Petit Chablis casts aromas of flinty limestone minerality, fleshy green apples and lemon curd. Brisk and racy on the attack, the Petit Chablis wraps its riveting mineral core inside a wrapper of buttery lemon curd and refreshing pear and apple fruit. Classically brisk but impressively textured on the palate, this is superb Petit Chablis that combines the region’s Portlandian limestone minerality with laser-sharp lemony Chardonnay fruit and a juicy, satiny texture. Perfect for oysters, clams, mussels, prawns and the entire spectrum of fish and shellfish, serve this delicious, old-school Petit Chablis now and over the coming three years.

2009 Christophe Thorigny, Vouvray Sec, Loire Valley, France 15.99/171.00
Vouvray’s inimitable yellow limestone “tuffeau” soils are in full regalia in Christophe Thorigny’s superb 2009 Vouvray sec. A lovely lemon-gold in the glass, this Chenin blanc yields aristocratic floral aromas that segue to an impressively clean, fleshy palate featuring nuances of mango, green melon, Mirabelle plums and buttery pâté brisée. Precise and soil-driven throughout, Thorigny’s Vouvray sec finishes clean, dry and smoky, leaving a dusting of Vouvray’s tuffeau soil on your tongue. This is one impressive, terroir-driven wine that drinks superbly now, but offers tons of promise for a long evolution in your cool cellar. Pair with raw oysters, fresh and aged chèvres, blanquette de veau and the myriad of freshwater fish recipes. It will also work wonderfully with Asian cuisines, especially Vietnamese, Indonesian and not-too-spicy Thai.

ITALY – WHITE

2010 Azienda Vitivinicola Ciù Ciù, Le Merlettaie, Offida Pecorino, Marche, Italy 14.99/160.00
Offida is a wine appellation in the northern part of the Marche region of Italy. The appellation covers a number of sub-appellations including a white made from the Pecorino grape, called appropriately Offida Pecorino. This 100% Pecorino wonder opens with a limpid straw-gold color and aromas of hawthorn blossoms, acacia and muskmelon. Bracing on the attack, the wine’s impressive acidic spine supports a fleshy core of melon, pear and quince. Hints of vanilla bean and delicate clay minerality emerge and add complexity as the wine segues to its long floral, perfumed finish. Drink this aromatic beauty from the rustic hills of the Marche young to capture all the wine’s delicate floral nuances and appetizing aromatic fruit expressions. Pair now and over the coming eighteen months with prawns, langoustines, fish soups, seafood pastas, and vegetable frittatas.

2010 Cristina Ascheri, Langhe, Arneis, Piedmont, Italy 17.99/192.50
Arneis is one of our very favorite Italian white wines. A fickle varietal that can be rather challenging to grow, Arneis demands careful nurturing on the vine and gentle vinification in order to retain all its delicate floral aromas. Brilliant green-gold, Ascheri’s Arneis explodes with aromas of citrus blossoms, vanilla, sappy almond flesh and white grapefruit. Fleshy on the palate but sporting plenty of citric acidity, the Arneis adds notes of tangerine, star fruit, and sandy soil minerality. A refreshing bitter almond skin note appears as the wine begins its long, clean and juicy citrus-infused finish. This is among the most exquisitely balanced Arneis that we’ve had the pleasure to taste. It deftly balances its opulent fruit expression with bracing acidity and delicate minerality, and will be a terrific pair with white pizzas, pastas tossed with olive oil and white sauces, fresh golden trout, and sautéed summer squashes. Enjoy now and over the coming year.

WEB-EXTRAS: Read the reviews online

2009 La Luna del Rospo, Barbera d’Asti, Silente, Piedmont, Italy 13.50/144.50

2010 Tenuta le Calcinaie, Simone Santini, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy 14.99/160.00

2010 Bodegas Angel Rodríguez, Martínsancho, Verdejo, Rueda, Spain 16.99/181.50

This symbol indicates a naturally farmed wine.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail

HOURS: Mon.-Sat.
10 a.m -6 p.m.

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

Oct. 7 A killer selection of 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Papes: Clos des Papes, Vieux Donjon, Vieux Telegraphe, Pierre Usseglio, Ch. Fortia, and more.

Oct. 14 Special Friday event: Vilmart & Cie Champagne tasting with winemaker Laurent Champs. Fee: $20. 5:30-7:00 p.m.

Oct 21 White Burgundies from Chablis: Dauvissat, Fevre, Drouhin, Meuliere, and don’t stop there!

Nov. 4 Forget about Beaujolais Nouveau! Taste the real deal: Beaujolais from those great producers who have kept alive the tradition of beautiful, age-worthy wines from southern Burgundy: Aufranc, Jadot, Lardy, Cheysson, Roilette, and more.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee

Oct. 1 An eclectic selection of deliciousness: Bodegas Angel Rodríguez Martínsancho Verdejo, Evesham Wood Pinot Noir, Le Petit Vin d’Avril, Marigny-Neuf Sauvignon Blanc, Dom. Guillot-Broux Mâcon-Cruzille, and Beauthorey Bella Parra Coteaux du Languedoc.

Oct. 8 Calling Drouhin lovers! Jen Lade from Dreyfus Ashby will pour Domaine Drouhin Oregon wines and Joseph Drouhin red and white Burgundies.

Oct. 15 Kalin Garlock from Vine Merchants will pour Christophe Tenuta le Calcinaie Simone Santini Vernaccia, Thorigny Vouvray Sec, Mas del Périé Les Escures Malbec, plus other fine selections.

Oct. 22 A brilliant selection of wines from Vin De Garde: Dom. de la Louvetrie Muscadet, Schloss Maissau Ewald Gruber Grüner Veltliner, Cristina Ascheri Arneis, Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis, and Ch. Cap de Merle Lussac St.-Emilion.

Oct. 29 Italian Beauties: Azienda Vitivinicola Ciù Ciù Offida Pecorino, Musto Carmelitano Maschitano Rosso, Poggio Romita Chianti Il Fiorino, Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna, and La Luna del Rospo Barbera d’Asti Silente.

SPECIAL EVENTS
THIS MONTH:

Fattoria di Felsina
Wine Dinner at Bastas Trattoria
Monday, October 10 6:30 p.m.

Join Andrea Bonivento for a memorable evening of foods paired with the great Tuscan wines of Fattoria di Felsina. A multi-course dinner will be paired with these distinctive wines. And please leave room for dessert, because few wineries make Vin Santo like Felsina!

Your chef is the talented Marco Frattaroli, owner of Bastas Trattoria, a landmark Portland restaurant. The cost for this event is $75 per person, inclusive. Seating is limited, and advance payment will hold your seat. For reservations please contact Liner & Elsen.
Basta’s Trattoria is located at 410 NW 21st Ave., Portland.

Vilmart & Cie Champagne Tasting at L&E with Winemaker Laurent Champs
Friday, October 14
5:30-7:00 p.m.

Liner & Elsen welcomes Laurent Champs from Vilmart & Cie. The Vilmart wines are among the most exciting and spectacular Champagnes in the market.

According to author Richard Juhlin (4000 Champagnes): “Vilmart has quickly established cult status... since young Laurent [Champs] took over from his father in 1991, the company has become one of the true gems with the perfect wine, Coeur de Cuvée, as its most brilliant star.”

Please see our website for the complete lineup of Champagnes to be poured. No reservation needed. Tasting fee: $20