AUGUST NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2011 Omero Cellars, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon (S) 18.99/205.09

Employing fruit grown by five top-notch vineyards, the Omero 2011 Pinot Noir is one of the vintage’s shining stars. A beautiful light garnet robe, Omero’s Willamette Valley Pinot soars with the red-fruited purity that defines Oregon’s 2011 vintage. On the nose, sweet raspberry fruit meshes with earthy rhubarb and spicy oak, transitioning to a soil transparent expression of Ribbon Ridge ferrous soil, dried orange peel, red raspberries and sweet cherries. Tangy acidity and fine tannins frame the core of sweet red fruits and keep the wine vibrant all the way through to its long, rhubarb-tinged finish. Light, earthy and incredibly well balanced, this Oregon Pinot will serve you well as a midsummer red, or will repay two or three years’ ageing in your cool cellar. Pair with grilled salmon, roast chicken and earthy mushroom ragouts.

FRANCE – RED

2012 Albert Bichot, Bourgogne, Vieilles Vignes de Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France 15.99/172.69

Over the past decade, the family-owned house of Albert Bichot has been coming on strong and delivering classic, delicately textured, terroir-driven red and white Burgundies. Crafted from 25- to 35-year-old vines in the famous Cotes de Nuits and Beaune, Bichot’s old-vine Pinot Noir shows a deep, transparent garnet robe followed by juicy aromas of Bing cherries, red currants, loamy earth and wood spice. Tangy on the palate with small-berried intensity, the wine fuses a delicious core of currant, cherry and raspberry fruit with an underpinning of classic Burgundian clay-limestone minerality. Hints of smoke, firm tannins and lively acidity carry the wine to a long, persistent and delicious finish, which reprises berry and currant notes and casts the spotlight on the wine’s impressive Burgundian terroir. This is delicious, soil-driven red Burgundy and a steal for its tariff. Enjoy now through 2020 with roast poultry, fresh chevres, grilled salmon and hearty potato preparations.

2012 Domaine des Sablonnettes, Gamay, Les Copines Aussi, Anjou, Loire Valley, France (B) 15.99/172.69

Christine and Joel Menard produce stunning, vibrant natural wines in the heart of the Coteaux du Layon AOC. Sablonnettes’ Gamay Les Copines Aussi casts a deep garnet hue in the glass with beguiling aromas of bitter cherries, granitic minerals, smoke, walnuts and dried herbs. Sweet on the attack, the wine takes an herbal turn mid-palate, and then finishes with suggestions of blood oranges, lip-smacking tannins, saline minerals, walnuts and a delicious hint of wild yeast funk. Earthy, bright, buoyant and thoroughly delicious, this is a fun, natural summer wine that will take a chill and pair with just about anything. We suggest enjoying it over the coming two years with grilled chicken, braised rabbit, roast pork loin, hearty vegetarian dishes, savory casseroles, and fresh chevres.

2012 Jean Delobre, La Ferme des Sept Lunes, Syrah, Northern Rhone Valley, France (B) 17.99/194.29

Jean Delobre’s commitment to organic viticulture, gentle, non-interventionist winemaking and minimal use of sulfur has made him a darling of the natural wine movement. Delobre’s La Ferme des Sept Lunes is a 13.5-acre biodynamically run estate situated in the Northern Rhone Valley’s Saint Joseph appellation. His 2012 Syrah is effectively declassified St. Joseph crafted to be delicious when young. And delicious it is! A deep purple-ruby, the wine blossoms in the glass to reveal suggestions of plums, wild cherries, violets, dried orange peel and tar. Soft and approachable on the palate, the wine offers a mouthful of pure Syrah goodness infused with the Northern Rhone’s inimitable expression of granitic minerals, cured meat, game, tar, violets and a pleasant touch of indigenous yeast. It finishes clean and unusually refreshing given its depth on the palate. We love it for its soft fruit, quiet tannins and deftness on the palate, and it will be our choice for a BBQ red this summer. Pair this gorgeously delicious 100% Syrah – consider giving it a delicate chill – with ribs, burgers, brisket, kebobs, grilled seasonal squashes or eggplant and lamb burgers.

2011 Domaine de Brin, Petit Brin, Gaillac, Southwestern France (O) 13.50/145.80

Authentic rusticity meets superb winemaking in this lovely wine from southwestern France. Just northeast of Toulouse, Damien Bonnet is setting the natural wine world afire with his organic, traditionally-made portfolio of brilliant Gaillac wines. Bonnet’s Petit Brin is a blend of Gaillac’s indigenous grapes, Braucol (Fer Servadou) and Duras blended with the noble Merlot. Casting an opaque plum ruby robe, the Petit Brin opens with aromas of plums and brambly blackberries backed by hints of dark roasted coffee beans and dried herbs. Soft on the attack, the wine tightens quickly to reveal firm, rustic tannins and brisk acidity, which buoy the its plump core of plum and blackberry fruit. Hints of ferrous earth, wild yeast top notes and a complex suggestion of bitter chocolate mark the long, lip-smacking finish. Spicy, smoky and endlessly fascinating, the Petit Brin will prove a lovely foil for pâtes, terrines, cured meats, roast duck, beef stews, grilled lamb and eggplant-based vegetarian recipes. Enjoy now and over the coming five years.

2010 Laurent Martray, Cote de Brouilly, Les Feuillees, Beaujolais, France 10.99/118.69

This wine’s energy, poise and seriousness bring to mind a Pinot Noir from the Cote de Beaune. Laurent Martray’s Cote de Brouilly Les Feuillees is his top cuvee, fashioned from vines planted in 1916 on a slope so steep and stony it must be worked manually. An opaque crimson-ruby in the glass, Martray’s Les Feuillees opens bright and spicy on the palate, casting aromas of violets, wood smoke and cinnamon. Deep with black cherry fruit and backed by riveting acidity, firm tannins and a dusty soil signature, the wine finishes long and delicious with spicy cherry and bitter orange fruit driven by dusty dissolved minerals. We suggest you cellar a case to enjoy over the next ten years as you would a fine Oregon Pinot Noir or a premier cru Beaune. Pair with broiled salmon, grilled seasonal squashes or pan-seared pork loin chops. This is serious Beaujolais!

2012 Domaine La Tour Boisee, Plantation 1905, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 12.50/135.00

La Tour Boisee’s Plantation 1905 is a blend of twenty-three varietals planted in the Laure-Minervois over one hundred years ago, long neglected, and carefully tended back to health by the domaine. Because some of the varietals aren’t recognized by the AOC, the wine must be classified as a humble vin de table. In fact, this is a smashing full-throttle red that will resonate with lovers of hearty Southern French red wines and the geek contingent alike. Opaque black-plum in the glass, the Plantation 1905 casts lusty, spicy aromas of fig, dried plums, cinnamon stick, black licorice and game. Plump and velvety on the attack, the wine tightens mid-palate to reveal firm, structured tannins, sweet spices, menthol, lemon thyme and sappy herbs. Further suggestions of cassis and damson plum fruit transition the wine to its long licorice and herb-tinged finish. This is fascinating wine and superb selection to pair with rustic fare like daubes of beef, eggplant lasagna and roast leg of lamb. It will also work well with burgers, pork chops and rich vegetarian casseroles.

ITALY – RED

2009 Falchini, Paretaio Rosso, Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy 17.77/194.29

The great Falchini estate crafts this superb barrel-aged Tuscan red from Sangiovese fruit grown exclusively in the esteemed Paretaio vineyard north of the hilltop village of San Gimignano. This 2009 Paretaio conveys beautifully the warmth and depth of the heralded 2009 Tuscan vintage. Casting an opaque ruby color from the glass, Falchini’s 2009 Paretaio opens with spicy aromas of black cherries, plums, vanilla bean, leather, mushrooms and dusty soil. Plump and velvety on the attack, the Paretaio’s firm core of Sangiovese tannins emerge to frame a lovely, saturated core of cherry and plum fruit. The Sangiovese’s distinctive leather and button mushroom notes reappear on the wine’s back-palate and segue it to a long, elegant finish featuring complex suggestions of black cherries, tobacco and vanilla bean. Enjoy this terrific Tuscan value over the coming decade with pizza, meaty pasta dishes, rich Tuscan bean stews, and thick grilled Porterhouse steaks.

NV Tenuta la Pergola, Il Goccetto, Vino Rosso, Piedmont, Italy (S) 13.50/145.80

Some of the best values in famed importer Kermit Lynch’s portfolio are the wines he personally selects, blends and labels with his peerless moniker. In the Piedmont’s Monferrato zone, Lynch works closely with Tenuta la Pergola to fashion this delicious, aromatic, blend of the indigenous Piemontese varietals Croatina and Brachetto. Designated Il Goccetto (“a little nip”) this wine may not carry a vintage date and must be declassified to Vino Rosso because its unique blend does not conform to the Monferrato D.O.C.’s rules. Pale, transparent orange-tinged garnet, the wine casts aromas of macerated cherries, candied rose petals, cinnamon, lavender and Constant Comment tea. Light-bodied and refreshing, the wine employs its kernel of sweet cherry fruit and potpourri overtones to whet the palate and invite another bite of pizza, antipasti, salumi and hors d’oeuvres. Don’t miss this unique, delicious choice for a light-bodied summertime red. Enjoy over the coming year.
–A Kermit Lynch selection

2012 Elio Grasso, Dolcetto d’Alba, Dei Grassi, Piedmont, Italy 16.99/183.49

Barolo superstar Elio Grasso crafts his only Dolcetto bottling from vineyards situated in Barolo’s hallowed Monforte d’Alba zone. Delicious in its youth, Grasso’s Dei Grassi Dolcetto opens with a translucent black cherry robe followed by aromas of sun-warmed cherries, black raspberries, cloves, tar and perfumed clay soil. Appetizingly bitter on the attack – as a great Dolcetto should be – the wine softens and fleshes out mid-palate to reveal a core of sappy cherry and blackberry fruit complicated by notes of cloves, nutmeg and Belgian chocolate. A hint of orange peel helps segue the wine to its long, sappy and juicy finish, which features reprises of cherries, black raspberries and brown spices. This is delicious Dolcetto with an impeccable pedigree for a very reasonable price. Enjoy it now and over the coming five years with egg pasta dishes, burgers, mac ‘n cheese, vegetable frittatas and pan-seared pork loin chops.

2010 Secco-Bertani, Valpolicella, Valpantena, Ripasso, Veneto, Italy 15.99/172.69

The great Bertani estate’s Secco-Bertani is generally considered to be the grandfather of all ripasso wines in the Valpolicella region. Ripasso is the technique of allowing a Valpolicella wine to re-ferment on the spent lees and pomace of a winery’s Amarone. The process adds weight, depth, structure and richness to the finished wine, and Secco-Bertani’s 2010 bottling is again a benchmark example of the genre. Casting a translucent black cherry hue from the glass, Secco-Bertani’s 2010 Ripasso opens with an elegant bouquet of black plums, blond tobacco, dried herbs and aniseed. Lifted by brisk acidity, the wine shows impressive elegance on the palate, which amplifies the wine’s red and black fruit themes while adding deep soil notes, wintergreen, and hints of leafy underbrush. The Secco-Bertani finishes clean and invigorating, with firm tannins emerging amidst complex notes of Assam black tea, black licorice and sweet tobacco. A wine of unusual balance and verve, we suggest pairing Secco-Bertani’s ripasso with simple, satisfying foods like braised rabbit, roast duck, daubes of pork and zucchini casseroles. Extraordinarily versatile, the wine will also pair well with mature hard cheeses. Drink now or over the next ten years.


WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE

2013 Domaine des Schistes, Le Bosc Blanc, Cotes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon, France (O) 13.50/145.80

Deep in the heart of the Roussillon in south-central France, Jacques and Mickaël Sire’s Domaine des Schistes has created a deep, aromatic white based on a creative blend of Maccabeu (Macabeo), Grenache Gris and Vermentino. Le Bosc (“the woods” in Catalan dialect) opens with a pale lemon-gold hue accented by green glints. The wine offers a deep, complex nose spotlighting vivid aromas of green melon, honeysuckle blossoms and smoky schistose minerals. Brisk and invigorating on the palate, Le Bosc shows refreshing expressions of crisp pear and green apple fruit accented by notes of lemon verbena, tarragon and sorrel. Clean, dry, long and lingering on the finish, this complex blanc will pair nicely with grilled vegetables like eggplant and zucchini, omelets, periwinkles and assertive grilled fishes like yellow fin tuna, fresh sardines, mackerel and swordfish. Enjoy this aromatic, refreshing and thirst-quenching Mediterranean white over the coming two years.

2013 Ampelidae, Marigny-Neuf, Sauvignon, Val de Loire IGP, France 10.50/113.40

For the fourth vintage in a row, Ampelidae’s beauty from the Loire’s Poitiers zone sends those chalky Sauvignon chills up our spines. The Poitiers zone’s pure limestone soil elevates the Sauvignon Blanc and gives it finesse and clarity rare for a wine in this price bracket. Lovely pale gold in the glass, Marigny-Neuf’s Sauvignon explodes with aromas of lime zest, gooseberries, lemongrass and smoky flint. Conveying an impressive acid backbone, the 2013 Marigny-Neuf’s grassy, juniper-inflected papaya and citrus fruit expressions gain energy from a riveting undercurrent of flinty, limestone minerals. On the palate, the wine shows impressive focus through a juicy core of white grapefruit and basil-tinged lime underpinned by bracing acidity. This is the rare Sauvignon Blanc value that can stand up to wines from the Loire Valley’s marquee appellations costing twice as much, or more. You can bet that we’ll be buying this for ourselves to serve as an aperitif or to pair with pan-roasted mussels, oysters on the half-shell, poached freshwater fish dishes with a beurre blanc sauce, fresh chevres, light salads and sauteed vegetables.

2013 Domaine Les Cantates, Cru Chignin, IGP, Savoie, France 13.99/151.09

One of the greatest and most famous crus of Savoie, Chignin’s vineyards are planted on rock and pebble soils that help to store heat during the day aid ripening in this cool, sub-alpine region. This old-vine Jacquere beauty from Domaine les Cantates screams Alpine freshness and mineral limestone goodness from the moment it’s poured. Fermented with natural yeast and aged for 6-12 months in stainless steel, Les Cantates’ Chignin casts a pale lemon-gold color and suggestions of wet stones, grapefruit pith and white flowers. Crisp and light on the palate, the wine’s impressive tactile grip juxtaposes wild yeast top notes, electric minerality, and a complex hint of malt. Clean and crisp, with an unbelievable refreshment quotient, the wine finishes with further waves of limestone minerals, white flowers and citrus pith. This is a perfect aperitif for warm weather sipping and a natural partner for freshwater fish preparations, sauteed vegetables, fresh chevres and hors d’oeuvres. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

2012 Bouchard Pere & Fils, Bourgogne, Chardonnay, Reserve, Burgundy, France 18.99/205.09

Maison Bouchard’s quality extends from its impressive grands crus to its humble, authentic and delicious regional wines. Burgundy insiders are especially thrilled by the 2012 vintage’s tiny-berried, small harvest white wines, as they show impressive intensity, clarity and effortlessly convey their underlying terroir. Bouchard’s 2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay bursts with classic white Burgundy soil notes of crushed oyster shells and clay. A brilliant straw-gold in the glass, the wine accents its unmistakable soil expression with aromas and palate impressions of lemon curd, fleshy pears, white flowers and Golden Delicious apple. Rich, full-bodied, yet soil driven, one can enjoy this offering in many contexts: as a lover of Burgundy looking for authentic character and value, or as a devoted Chardonnay fan who prefers the varietal’s crisp, minerally and citrus expressions. Enjoy this authentic white Burgundy now and over the next two years with delicate freshwater fish preparations, light pasta dishes with white sauces or a spinach and zucchini frittata.

ITALY – WHITE

2013 Marchetti, Tenuta del Cavaliere, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, Marches, Italy 15.99/172.69

Verdicchio is central Italy’s most distinctive white varietal. The mineral-rich soils of the Classico Superiore sector of the Marches’ Castelli di Jesi zone – just a few miles from the Adriatic Sea – imbues the finest Verdicchios with extra complexity and a deeply etched soil signature. A radiant green-gold in the bowl, Marchetti’s Verdicchio shows all the minerally snap pea and smoky white pepper notes that we so love in the very finest Verdicchios. The wine’s smoky mineral expression yields to a fleshy core of pear and melon fruit backed by riveting acidity, a tactile mineral expression, and suggestions of green tea, grapefruit zest and sappy dried herbs. Full bodied yet balanced and elegant, Marchetti’s Verdicchio begs for rich vegetarian recipes and fish steaks. Pair it now and over the coming five years with hearty fare that calls for a bold white wine, like swordfish, fresh albacore tuna, rabbit, zucchini casseroles, white pizzas, and pastas dressed with olive oil, garlic and seasonal vegetables. Impressive Verdicchio!

2013 Tenuta la Marchesa, Gavi, Marchesa, Piedmont, Italy (S) 13.99/151.09

The Tenuta La Marchesa, located in the heart of the Piedmont’s Gavi region, produces this Gavi of unusual harmony: a delicious fusion of bright fruit, smoky minerality, and invigorating acidity. A very pale lemon-gold color, Marchesa’s 2013 Gavi presents fragrances of almond blossoms, smoky minerals and Anjou pears. Zesty, fresh and minerally on the palate, the wine’s delicious core of lemon, pear and green apple fruit marries with assertive mineral notes and complex suggestions of sweet almonds. Fleshy and juicy, the wine finishes with impressive reprises of juicy citrus and orchard fruits, smoky minerals, and bitter medicinal herbs. This is a superb, affordable Gavi of impressive depth and character, which can be enjoyed now and over the coming year with oysters, mussels, clams, octopus, vitello tonnato, grilled green vegetables and light seafood risottos.

PORTUGAL – WHITE

2013 Lavradores de Feitoria, Douro, Branco, Portugal 9.50/102.60

Much like the heralded Produttori del Barbaresco, the Lavradores de Feitoria is a modern cooperative venture that represents top growers in the most important sub-regions of the Douro. In this way, the cooperative can achieve enough production to export and thereby achieve the highest standards of viticulture and winemaking in their region. Lavradores’ Branco (white wine) is an unoaked blend of Malvasia Fina for depth of flavor, Siria for smooth mouth-feel, and Gouveio for body. The wine begins with a brilliant green-glinted gold color and mineral-infused aromas of muskmelon, pineapple, Bartlett pear and hops. Crisp and mouth-filling, Lavradores’ Branco refreshes with notes of key lime zest and smoky, salty minerals. Zesty and fresh, the wine finishes clean and minerally with just the right amount of juicy acidity to balance its fleshy citrus and orchard fruit expressions. This is a lovely warm weather white that’s priced sinfully low for its quality. Enjoy it over the coming year with tapas, shellfish, grilled branzino, seasonal squashes and pastas dressed with olive oil sauces.

SPAIN – WHITE

2013 Laxas, Albarino, Rías Baixas, Spain 15.99/172.69

We especially love Albarino when it’s clean, crisp, minerally and low in alcohol: precisely what this example from Laxas delivers. A pale lemon-gold with green highlights, Laxas’ Albarino conveys elegant, saline-highlighted aromas of honeydew melon, quinine and grapefruit. On the palate, suggestions of Bartlett pear, fresh ginger and lime juice are lifted by shimmering acidity and a palate-dusting of saline minerals. Delicious and incredibly refreshing, Laxas’ Albarino finishes with exotic tropical floral notes mingling with suggestions of citrus zest, almond skin and salty minerals. This is sensational Albarino in the crisp, minerally aesthetic; pair it over the coming year with calamari, clams, oysters or Dungeness crab, or enjoy it all on its own as an attention-grabbing aperitif.


ROSÉ WINES

FRANCE – ROSÉ

2013 Domaines Bunan, Belouve, Rose, Cotes de Provence, Provence, France (O) 15.99/172.69

Everyone needs an authentic Provençal rose to celebrate the heart of summer. Domaines Bunan’s gorgeous Belouve 2013 rose conveys that special edge that only Provençal roses offer: a refreshing blend of red, pink and yellow fruits; gripping minerality; and those herbal, lavender-driven notes that make rose lovers swoon. A brilliant copper-salmon robe in the glass, Bunan’s Belouve rose opens with crystalline aromas of red raspberries, Rainier cherries, lavender and sappy dried herbs. Crisp on the palate, Belouve’s blend of gently pressed Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah fuses into a wonderful lavender, cedar and thyme-tinged expression of raspberries, watermelon and bitter cherries – all backed by bristling acidity and sappy herbal garrigue. Perfect for sushi, sashimi, and everything off the grill, it will also complement crostini topped with tapenade, poached and broiled fish preparations, and sauteed seasonal vegetables spiked with fresh thyme, rosemary and garlic. This is great Provençal rose and a steal for its tariff. Enjoy now and over the coming year.

PORTUGAL – ROSÉ

2013 Espelt, Corali, Empordà, Rose, Cataluna, Spain 11.50/124.20

From the far northeastern corner of Spain comes this 100% Garnacha rose of exceptional character and value. A brilliant watermelon color in the glass, Espelt’s Coralí bursts with sweet cherry and watermelon fruit accented by dried herbal garrigue. On the palate, suggestions of fleshy cherries and red raspberries combine with a savory herbal expression and a stony mineral core. Clean and fresh on the finish, this is a rose that takes to a good chill and offers wonderful refreshment on hot, sunny days. Perfect for picnics, barbecues, summer entertaining and as a refreshing reward after a hard day of work, pair this with ribs, brisket, barbecue, grilled squashes and spicy patatas bravas. Enjoy over the coming year.

SPAIN – ROSÉ

2013 Ostatu, Rose, Rioja, Spain (S) 13.50/145.80

Sourced from old-vine Tempranillo and Garnacha, the Ostatu estate in Rioja has crafted a fiery watermelon pink rose of exceptional depth and vinosity. Casting chalky, mineral-driven aromas of watermelon and Rainier cherries, Ostatu’s 2013 rose offers an exceptionally deep core of wild cherry and red raspberry fruit accented by hints of camphor and dried herbs. Fresh and eye-wincingly brisk, Ostatu’s rose juxtaposes old-vine intensity with chalky minerality and head-spinning acidity to make for the rose hit of the season. What’s even more amazing is that this beauty gains complexity and texture with aeration, so feel free to decant or open it in advance of serving. Pair Ostatu’s superb rose with anything and everything from seasonal vegetables to firm fleshed fishes to poultry to pork: this wine can handle ’em all. Enjoy now and over the coming two years.

LINER & ELSEN
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Mon.-Sat. 10am - 6pm


FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. - Fee

AUG. 1
White Burgundies from Puligny-Montrachet.

AUG. 15
A Taste of Corsica:
Witness these world-class white, red and rosé wines.

SEPT. 5
The New Portugal:
It ain’t just Port any more!


SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon - No fee

AUG. 2
Tour De France:
Dom. Les Cantates Cru Chignin, Dom. Bunan Belouvé Rosé, Dom. des Schistes Le Bosc Blanc, Albert Bichot Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Dom. des Sablonnettes Gamay, and Jean Delobre La Ferme des Sept Lunes Syrah.

AUG. 9
A tour of Italy:
Marchetti Tenuta del Cavaliere Verdicchio, Tenuta la Pergola Il Goccetto Vino Rosso, Elio Grasso Dolcetto d’Alba, Falchini Paretaio Rosso, Tenuta la Marchesa Gavi, and Secco-Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso.

AUG. 16
Refreshing summer sippers from Iberia
: Ostatu Rosé Rioja, Espelt Coralí Empordà Rosé, Lavradores de Feitoria Douro Branco, and Laxas Albariño Rías Baixas. Plus! Omero Pinot Pinot Noir Oregon.

AUG. 23
On arrival from France:
Marigny-Neuf Sauvignon, Dom. de Brin Petit Brin, Bouchard Bourgogne Chardonnay, Laurent Martray Côte de Brouilly, and Dom. La Tour Boisée Plantation 1905.

AUG. 30
Celebrate Spain!
Savor the summer-friendly wines of Spain: Cava, Rosé, Sherry, and more.

 


B = biodynamic methods; CO = certified organic; O = organic; S = sustainably farmed

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