MAY 2012 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2010 Crowley, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 21.99/235.00
Before launching his eponymous venture, Tyson Crowley spent a dozen years working for some of the Willamette Valley’s most prestigious wineries. Crowley’s dedication and hard work have paid off, as is immediately apparent in his soil-transparent, gorgeously perfumed and immediately delicious 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. A gorgeous crimson-ruby robe in the glass is your prelude to an opulent nose of red raspberries, earthy cranberries, cinnamon and underbrush. Brisk and vibrant, with that special 2010 clarity on the palate, the wine’s luscious berry fruit is complemented by earthy undertones and subtle barrel notes of vanilla bean and toffee. Fine tannins sneak into the picture mid-palate and segue the wine to its long, smoky, mineral-driven finish. Bright, vivacious and brimming with energy, here’s a Pinot that can be enjoyed now for its vivacious personality, or over the coming three years with grilled and sautéed summer vegetables, Chinook salmon, roast chicken, duck, burgers, light casseroles, and stews.

CALIFORNIA – RED

2009 Alexander Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wetzel Family Estate, Sonoma County, California 16.99/181.50
Insiders know that northern Sonoma’s Alexander Valley AVA gives full-bodied Cabernets of intense color, rich fruit and velvety structure. We can think of no better or more affordable testament to this age-old wisdom than this newly released 2009 Cabernet from the venerable Alexander Valley Vineyards. Opaque black-ruby in the glass, AVV’s ’09 Estate Cabernet blossoms to reveal classic Cab aromas of black currants and cedar shavings accented by barrel notes of creamy vanilla and dark caramel. Velvety on the attack, the AVV Cab tightens mid-palate to reveal framing tannins and complex suggestions of tobacco, lead pencil and cinnamon bark. Sexy all the way through its long cedary finish, this is kind of Cab that wins friends and impresses guests without breaking the bank. Enjoy the superb Sonoma value now and over the coming five years with rib roasts of beef, grilled lamb, braised pork preparations and hearty potato casseroles.

FRANCE – RED

2009 J. L. Chave Selection, Côtes-du-Rhône, Mon Coeur, Rhône Valley, France 18.99/203.00
This blend of primarily Grenache and Syrah sourced from superb sites in the Southern Rhône Valley left us speechless. Opaque black-plum in the glass, the Mon Coeur explodes with classic aromas of black cherries, cassis, black pepper and herbal garrigue. Richly textured, the wine saturates the palate with herb and pepper-infused blackberry and black currant fruit. Mouth filling yet weightless on the palate, the Mon Coeur defies the laws of gravity and finishes so cool, so clean and so refreshing as to belie its southern origins. Notes of tobacco, game and cured meat join fine, round tannins as the wine lingers on the palate. Chave’s Mon Coeur outperforms its appellation in the same way his Hermitage sets its own standard. Fans of Rhône Valley wines owe it to themselves to experience this selection. Enjoy now for its youthful vigor with full-bodied Southern French cuisine, and lay down a half-case or more to allow the genie in the bottle perform her magic.

2005 Château du Cayrou, Cahors, Southwest France 18.99/203.00
Cayrou’s 2005 Cahors demonstrates precisely what makes the best Cahors wines so special. A blend of 90% Malbec and 10% Merlot, the Cayrou opens with meaty Bordeaux-like aromas of cassis, black raspberries, tobacco and loamy earth. The wine’s lush and plump attack is immediately countered by a current of the Malbec’s palate-coating tannins and hints of walnuts, wood smoke, tobacco, bitter chocolate and vanilla. Impressively rich and packed with a chewy core of plum and currant fruit, the wine deftly balances old-school Cahors structure and earthiness with world-class texture and complexity. This is reference standard Cahors and a steal for its quality. Enjoy now and over the next three decades with roast goose, grilled beef ribeye steaks, braised short ribs, rich eggplant casseroles, and potatoes au gratin. Very limited.

ITALY – RED

2010 Li Veli, Passamante, Negroamaro, Salice Salentino, Puglia, Italy 11.50/123.00
Negroamaro is the unsung hero of southern Italian red wine grapes. In Li Veli’s Passamante, Negroamaro finds the spotlight and shows its nobility as a solo performer. Li Veli’s Passamante opens with a transparent black-plum color and inviting aromas of figs, licorice and cured meats. Negroamaro’s aristocratic breed shines on the Passamante’s spicy, chewy palate with distinctive suggestions of dried cherries, cigar box, sweet tobacco and ferrous earth. The Passamante’s finish sings with nuances including tobacco, Asian five spice, dried figs, dried currants and leather. Plentiful food-friendly tannins sneak in on Passamante’s long finish and lift the wine’s chewy fruit and dusty soil expressions. Perfect with pizza Margherita, pasta in a sun-dried tomato, garlic and olive oil sauce, tomato-based casseroles and rich braised pork recipes. Enjoy now and over the next five years.

2009 Vincenzo Ippolito, Ciro Rosso, Classico Superiore, Liber Pater, Calabria, Italy 11.50/123.00
Calabria is the “toe” of Italy’s “boot,” a rugged region where vineyards sweep right down to the beaches along the Ionian Sea. Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore is based on the rare Gaglioppo grape grown exclusively from vineyards in Cirò’s historical core. Deep crimson-garnet in the bowl, Ippolito’s Liber Pater Cirò Rosso captures all of Gaglioppo’s earthy goodness with exuberant aromas of cherry fruit infused with suggestions of leather, tar and dried orange peel. On the palate, the Liber Pater bursts with lip-smackingly delicious sour cherry and black currant fruit balanced by chewy tannins, tarry earth and black licorice. The wine finishes long and firm, revisiting its brisk kernel of cherry fruit while adding hints of bay leaf, smoky soil and mushroom underbrush. Superb balance, bracing acidity and fine, food-friendly tannins make this a perfect match for pasta dishes, hearty vegetable casseroles, grilled eggplant, roasts of lamb or pork dishes. Enjoy now or cellar three to seven years to allow the tannins to melt into the wine’s kernel of dusty cherry fruit.

2010 Ca’ Montebello di Luigi Scarani, Oltrepò Pavese, Rosso Custiò, Lombardy, Italy 13.99/149.50
Based on a classic Oltrepò blend of Barbera, Croatina and Uva Rara, Ca’ Montebello’s Rosso Custiò is named for the famed vineyard from which the grapes hail. An opaque plum color in the glass, the wine opens with appetizing aromas of black raspberries, leather, cinnamon and cloves. Brisk and invigorating on the palate, the Barbera’s acidity lifts the wine’s core of red berry fruit, while suggestions of lemon balm, bay leaf, smoke, leather and mushrooms add unusual complexity and nuance. Firm with chewy tannins, the wine conveys a sense of crystal clear limestone soil transparency and will complement the full range of hearty Piemontese and Lombardian cuisine, especially carne cruda, bagna caôda, tagliatelli, agnolotti, and other primi and secondi. It will fare equally well with local favorites such as burgers hot off the grill, pizza, roast chicken and pan-seared pork loin chops. A great wine that’s so subtly delicious that you’ll find the bottle gone in record time. A must-try selection!

2005 Savignola Paolina, Chianti Classico, Riserva, Tuscany, Italy 21.99/235.00 reg. 33.99
Matt Kramer, maestro of all things Italian, once wrote: “If Mozart made Chianti, it would be Paolina.” With each new vintage, the impressive portfolio of Savignola Paolina gains refinement, elegance and complexity. Paolina’s string of Chianti Classico successes continues with this brilliantly transparent and classically structured 2005 Riserva. The Riserva casts a lovely black-plum color from the bowl followed by gorgeously pure aromas of raspberry, black cherry, sandalwood and vanilla bean. In the mouth, the wine’s lush attack of red cherry and loganberry fruit is countered by palate-dusting tannins, vibrant acidity. Hints of leather, vanilla and sweet tobacco emerge mid-palate and segue the Paolina Riserva to its long, structured and satisfying finish. Delicious now with hearty fare, the ’05 Riserva has the poise and stuffing to ensure a long and promising evolution in your cool cellar. Enjoy now with vigorous and extended decantation or over the next decade with hearty pasta dishes, grilled porterhouse steaks, pizza, pork braises, eggplant preparations, and zucchini frittati.

PORTUGAL - RED

2010 Herdade do Esporão, Arco do Esporão, Alentejo, Portugal 13.50/144.50
Those looking for splendid values in full-throttle red wines should definitely pay attention to the beauties emerging from Portugal. The Arco do Esporão comes from the Alentejo region in southern Portugal, the area where much of the wine world’s cork is produced. This blend of Touriga Nacional and Aragonez with Syrah makes for a rich, smoky wine. A deep ruby color in the glass, the Arco do Esporão opens with deep blueberry and black cherry notes accented by toasty oak. Rich, round and velvety, the Arco do Esporão adds notes of plums, vanilla, black pepper, cured meat and smoky soil. Long and lingering on the palate, the wine’s oak aging blends beautifully with its deep berry expression to marry Old World spiciness and new world accessibility. A terrific choice to partner with grilled lamb, rich eggplant casseroles, burgers, pork chops, and hearty everyday fare. Fans of great value, big reds are going to love this.

WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE

2010 Pierre Vessigaud, Mâcon-Fuissé, Le Haut de Fuissé, Burgundy, France 16.99/181.50
This is a superb and comfortably affordable White Burgundy with a transparent terroir expression that leaves no doubt about its chalk, clay and limestone origins. One of only five growers in the Fuissé area to work organically, Pierre Vessigaud farms the special Le Haut de Fuissé vineyard site at the top of the Fuissé hills. The site’s high altitude imparts superb minerality and cut to this overachieving Mâcon. Brilliant lemon gold in the glass, aromas of hazelnuts, gardenia blossoms, lemon curd and flint emerge with aeration. Hints of cardamom, malt, buttery toffee and hazelnuts greet the palate before flinty limestone terroir and bracing 2010 acidity segue the wine to its fresh, complex and extraordinarily food-versatile finish. Serve this as a terrific warm-up wine at your early spring gathering, or pair it with salmon, halibut, steelhead or richly-sauce fish recipes now and over the coming five years.

2010 Gérard & Pierre Morin, Sancerre, Vieilles Vignes, Loire Valley, France 21.99/235.00
This textbook Sancerre offers great purity and aromatic intensity. Limpid green-tinted pale lemon-gold, Morin’s Vieilles Vignes (Old Vines) casts focused aromas of lime zest, mint and basil from the glass. Crisp and sleek on the palate, the old-vine intensity shows on the wine’s tightly coiled core of key lime fruit and the electric currents of chalky minerality and brisk acidity. Bright and long on the finish, Sauvignon blanc suggestions of mint, freshly cut grass and bitter herbs complete a reference-standard expression of Sancerre. Pair now and over the coming five years with fresh chèvres, briny oysters on the half-shell, delicate freshwater fish preparations, pastas stuffed with goat cheese and nettles, and sautéed or steamed spring vegetables.

ITALY – WHITE

2011 Ca’ Montebello di Luigi Scarani, Oltrepò Pavese, Pinot Nero, Vinificato in Bianco, Lombardy, Italy 13.99/149.50
Winemakers in Lombardy are well versed and talented in the making of white wines from black grapes. Vinified by a gentle pressing so as to give the clear juice of the Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) grapes no time to steep on their pigmented skins, a brilliant, pale straw gold wine is produced. Highlighted by aromas of gardenia blossoms, Comice pears, white raspberries and Rainier cherries, Ca’ Montebello’s white Pinot Nero charmed us with its impressive clarity and its ineffable Pinot Noir character. Hints of raspberries, currants and citrus join with buoyant acidity and an electric limestone mineral expression to make this one of the most delicious and versatile white wines of the season. Pair this beauty with broiled swordfish, salmon, seafood pasta dishes, sautéed summer squashes, or serve as a conversation-generating aperitif.

2010 Ronco Blanchis, Friulano, Collio, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 14.99/160.00
The key to the greatness of this wine is the special terroir upon which the grapes are grown. The sunny, high-altitude slopes on Italy’s border with Slovenia are sheltered by the nearby Alps to allow for long ripening and insistent minerality. Ronco Blanchis’ Friulano (formerly termed Tocai Friulano) casts a deep lemon-gold hue from the bowl followed by juicy aromas of fresh apricot, pineapple, white flowers and ginger. Brisk on the attack, with lemony acidity lifting luscious peach and tropical fruit notes, the wine sings on the palate with suggestions of fennel, clover honey and chamomile. A smoky limestone mineral streak emerges on the wine’s long, perfumed finish. Enjoy this beauty now and over the coming two years with brook trout, medium chèvres, vegetable omelets, and angel hair pasta with fresh Dungeness crabmeat.

PORTUGAL - WHITE

2006 Faldas da Serra, Quinta das Maias, Malvasia-Fina, Dão, Portugal 13.99/149.50
Portuguese white wines continue to wow us. The Dão is well known to be Portugal’s finest source of dry red wines, but conscientious producers like Quinta das Maias are raising the ante by experimenting with indigenous varietals to make crisp, modern, dry white wines. Somewhat akin to a cross between a minerally Chenin Blanc from Savennières, a full-bodied Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc and a waxy Viura from Rioja, the Malvasia-Fina offers a brilliant lemon-gold hue and aromas of honeydew melon, smoky schistose minerals and sappy pine. Brisk and broad on the palate, the wine introduces complex notes of menthol, lemon balm and quince. Quinta das Maias’s Malvasia-Fina finishes long and minerally with reprises of mentholated lemon, green melon and smoky minerals. Highly distinctive, bone dry and bristling with acidity, we recommend enjoying this delight with heartier fare like herbed roast chicken, quail, braised pork, duck and rabbit, or with aromatic vegetarian fare featuring bay leaf and thyme.

SPAIN - WHITE

2010 Fillaboa, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 15.99/171.00
Hailing from Galicia in far northwestern Spain, Albariño is enjoyed in its youth primarily in the restaurants and tapas bars of Spain. Fillaboa’s Albariño opens with a gloriously bright, green-glinted lemon-gold color and a highly aromatic bouquet of pear blossoms, honeydew melon, pineapple and papaya. On the palate, the Albariño is crisp, invigorating, and bursting with suggestions of freshly cut pineapple, crisp grapefruit and dissolved limestone minerals. Crisp, crunchy and refreshingly dry, the wine leaves a dusting of chalky minerals and lingering notes of apricots and fresh orange peel. If you like Viognier, Arneis or fine dry Riesling, or if you favor highly aromatic, food friendly white wines, this Albariño from a premier producer is a wonderful choice for warm weather sipping. Pair over the coming year with calamari, scallops, oysters or Dungeness crab, or enjoy all on its own as a crowd-pleasing apéritif.

2011 Arregi Getariako, Txakolina, Basque Country, Spain 14.99/160.00
Portland’s love for the racy, vegetable- and seafood-friendly white wines from Txakolí in Basque Country Spain knows no bounds. Now a fixture on our shelves, Arregi’s rendition from the easternmost outpost of Txakolí thrills in the freshly released 2011 vintage. Pale blue-green-tinted lemon-gold in color, Arregi’s Txakolina offers distinctive aromas of lime oil, papaya and saline minerals. Fresh and still sporting a vivacious dose of dissolved CO2, the wine has enough bristling acidity to handle even the most challenging vegetables. Supporting the high acidity is a lively, exuberant fruit expression reminiscent of lime zest and crisp green pears. The Arregi’s finish is brisk and chalky, adding notes of white grapefruit and Meyer lemons. Always a staff favorite, this 100% Hondarribi Zuri is a perfect complement for seasonal market vegetables. This is a must-try selection that should ideally be enjoyed this spring and summer to capture its youthful vigor.

ROSÉ WINE

FRANCE - ROSÉ

2011 Domaine Sorin, Côtes de Provence, Rosé, Terra Amata, Provence, France 11.50/123.00
Eschewing chemical fertilizers and pesticides, the Domaine Sorin fashions delicious, approachable wines filled with the inimitable, sun-drenched character of Provence. Based on a roll call of Provence’s finest varietals, Sorin’s 2011 rosé is a lip-smacking blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Rolle and Orgi. A deep salmon color with copper highlights, Sorin’s 2011 rosé casts aromas of dried lavender, sage, strawberries and Rainier cherries. Crisp on the attack with juicy blood orange and white raspberry fruit, the rosé fleshes out mid-palate to reveal notes of fennel bulb, crushed herbs, light tannins and stony minerality. Extremely well balanced and super-refreshing, the Sorin rosé finishes long, crisp and food friendly. Pair now and over the next year with classic Provençal recipes like ratatouille, grilled whole fish stuffed with fennel and herbs, summer squashes, lamb sausages, and light seafood pastas. This selection is a wonderful harbinger of the 2011 rosé season!

WEB EXTRAS: Read the reviews online

2010 Dom. d’Augeron, Sables Fauves,Vin de Pays de Terroirs Landes, Southwest France 7.50/80.50

2006 Paitin, Barbaresco, Sorí Paitin, Piedmont, Italy 34.99/374.00 reg. 42.99

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail

HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10-6
CLOSED: Memorial Day, Mon. May 28

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

May 4 May 4 Meet the winemakers: Join two of Kermit Lynch’s finest producers – Anne Charlotte Genet of Domaine Charles Joguet (Chinon) and Pierre de Benoist of A&P De Villaine (Burgundy).

May 18 A Taste of Pinot – California Style: Williams Selyem, Calera, Hanzell, Etude, and more.

June 1 Great wines from the Alsace, France: Weinbach, Schoffitt, Mann, Trimbach, Kientzler, and more.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee

May 5 Ooh-la-la, wines from France! Dom. d’Augeron Sables Fauves, Gérard & Pierre Morin Sancerre V.V., Vessigaud Mâcon-Fuissé, J. L. Chave Selection Côtes-du-Rhône Mon Coeur, and Ch. du Cayrou Cahors.

May 12 Italian beauties: Ronco Blanchis Friulano, Li Veli Negroamaro Salice Salentino, Ippolito Ciro Rosso Liber Pater, Ca’ Montebello Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Custiò, Ca’ Montebello Pinot Nero Bianco, and S. Paolina Chianti Classico Riserva.

May 19 Superb wines from the Iberian Peninsula: Arregi Getariako Txakolina, Quinta das Maias Malvasia-Fina, Fillaboa Albariño, and Herdade do Esporão Arco do Esporão.

May 26 A mixed bag of deliciousness! Dom. Sorin Rose Côtes de Provence, Paitin Barbaresco, Crowley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, and Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon.

SPECIAL EVENTS THIS MONTH:

KERMIT LYNCH TASTING featuring the winemakers from Charles Joguet and A&P De Villaine

Friday May 4, 5:30-7:30

Join two of Kermit Lynch’s finest producers – Anne Charlotte Genet from Domaine Charles Joguet (Chinon) and Pierre de Benoist from A&P De Villaine (Burgundy). The full list of Cabernet Francs from Joguet and the Burgundies from A&P De Villaine is on our website. Fee for this very special event: $20. No reservations needed.

WINE DINNER:

Tuscan Wine Dinner with Fabrizio Nencioni of Agricola San Felice at Bastas Trattoria

Monday May 7, 6:30 p.m.

Please join us at Bastas Trattoria for an exciting evening of Tuscan wines and food. Fabrizio Nencioni from Agricola San Felice will be on hand to discuss the wines from their esteemed properties throughout Tuscany. We will feature wines from Chianti Classico, Montalcino, and their Super Tuscan wines. Seating is limited for this event, and payment confirms your reservations. $65 per person, inclusive.