APRIL 2014 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2011 St. Innocent, Pinot Noir, Vitae Springs Vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon (S) 24.99/269.89 reg. 32.99

In cool, late harvest vintages like 2011, the spotlight on the Willamette Valley’s Pinot Noirs is cast more on soil subtleties, and the crunchy red berry profile that we so love. Vitae Springs Vineyard in the South Salem Hills – long the source of St. Innocent’s finest Pinot Gris – gets its first chance to shine as a single vineyard Pinot Noir in the 2011 vintage. And what a debut this is! St. Innocent’s 2011 Vitae Springs Pinot opens with a deep ruby robe and soil-flecked aromas of loganberries and bitter cherries accented by hints of fresh oregano, vanilla and pencil shavings. Deep and coiled on the palate, the wine expresses a tangy core of red berry fruit balanced by vibrant tannins and suggestions of cherry skin and loamy earth. The wine finishes with excellent poise and structure, with its tangy core of red berry fruit accented by electric acidity and plentiful, buffered, mouth-coating tannins. Ready now with plenty of aeration, St. Innocent’s 2011 Vitae Springs Pinot shows the balance and stuffing to reward five to seven years aging. Pair it with grilled salmon, chicken breasts, roast duck and potatoes au gratin.
Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar: 90 points

2011 Coelho Winery, Pinot Noir, Atracao, Willamette Valley, Oregon (S) 17.99/194.29

Employing labor intensive, sustainable vineyard practices, Coelho Winery is fashioning a superb portfolio of soulful Willamette Valley wines, with an special emphasis on Pinot Noir. Their 2011 Atracao casts a transparent garnet color from the bowl, followed by cool aromas of red raspberries, cinnamon, allspice, fresh bay leaf and dusty earth. Clean and weightless on the palate, the wine blossoms to show a sappy kernel of pomegranate and pie cherry fruit complicated by hints of rhubarb, potpourri and orange blossom water. Velvety on the palate, the wine’s soft fruit expression delivers waves of delicious red berry and Seville orange fruit, with an undercurrent of stony minerality enlivened by mouthwatering acidity. This is superb, Marsannay-like Pinot that’s drinking gorgeously well now and will be a versatile foil for seared ahi, broiled salmon, roast chicken and light pork preparations. Delicious!

FRANCE – RED

2011 Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Cairanne, Vieilles Vignes, Southern Rhone Valley, France (O) 15.99/172.69

Berthet-Rayne is fashioning lush, full-throttle Cairanne wines that combine old-school character with modern accessibility. Luminescent black-plum in color, Berthet-Rayne’s 2011 Cairanne Vieilles Vignes opens with heady aromas of fresh plums, wild cherries, Chinese five spice and licorice. Fleshy and sumptuous, the wine stains the palate with saturated cherry and red currant fruit accented by notes of cured meat, mushrooms and chewy licorice. On the finish, the wine’s old-vine character comes to the fore with ripe, framing, lip-dusting tannins and a thrilling undercurrent of sappy herbal garrigue. At this price, this is a wine to buy by the case to enjoy now and over the coming seven years with roast lamb, grilled burgers, ratatouille – just about anything that motivates you to light the grill or braise something soulful and hearty.

2010 Chateau Val de Roc, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux, France 17.99/194.29

From the great 2010 Bordeaux vintage, Chateau Val de Roc offers this sumptuous blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. Opaque black plum in the glass, the 2010 Chateau Val de Roc casts aromas of black raspberries, black plums, wood smoke and violets. Brooding and structured on the palate, the wine conveys the dense, chewy tannins of the vintage buffered by a deep core of black currant, plum and blackberry fruit. Gamy, meaty notes emerge mid-palate and segue the wine to a long finish that reprises the wine’s kernel of black fruits, smoky, gravelly soil and firm, framing tannins. Enjoyable now with full bodied fare such as standing rib roast of beef, roast leg of lamb or rustic eggplant preparation, the wine is best laid to rest for five years or more where its prominent structure can yield to its latent core of black fruits.

2012 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgeuil, Cuvee Alouettes, Loire Valley, France 15.99/172.69

This is a stunning wine and a terrific value! One of the most underrated of the world’s great wines, Bourgueil, along with its neighbor Chinon, are the planet’s benchmarks for the noble Cabernet Franc grape. Chanteleuserie’s Cuvee Alouettes, fashioned from Cabernet Franc planted on sandy clay soils, is the domaine’s most approachable and immediately delicious wine. Translucent ruby in the glass, the Cuvee Alouettes spotlights the varietal’s special fresh black raspberry and currant fruit expressions lifted by its inimitable perfumed gout de terroir. Fresh, lively and delicious from the get-go, the wine graces the palate with vibrant red berry fruit, hints of tobacco, button mushrooms and food-friendly herbal notes. Fine, buffered tannins and lovely hints of violets and red licorice sneak in on the mid-palate and segue the wine to its long, fresh, soil-driven finish. Buy a case to enjoy now and over the next five years with pork rillettes, gratin dauphinois, hangar steaks, grilled eggplant, fresh chèvres, burgers and roast poultry.
A Kermit Lynch selection

ITALY – RED

2006 Brezza, Barbera d’Alba, Cannubi Muscatel, Piedmont, Italy 19.99/215.89 reg. 23.99

At eight years of age, Brezza’s 2006 Barbera from the renowned Barolo cru, Cannubi Muscatel, has just entered its plateau of maturity. Brezza’s Barbera opens with traditional Barbera aromas of plums, tar, camphor and smoky soil. Full-bodied on the palate with fleshy cherry and plum fruit, Brezza’s Barbera continues with chewy cherry and red currant fruit accented by suggestions of leather, sage, wintergreen and tobacco. Long, lingering and framed by impressive tannic structure, Brezza’s Barbera finishes harmoniously with further hints of camphor, mint, violets and crushed herbs. Enjoy now and over the coming seven years with carne cruda, risotto, agnolotti, tajarin with a butter sage sauce as well as everyday fare like burgers, roast pork loin and grilled eggplant. World-class Barbera!

2011 Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rufina, Tuscany, Italy 14.99/161.89

Fattoria Selvapiana, the beacon of all that’s great and unique about Chianti’s northern Rufina zone, has been on a tear recently. With rave reviews from all the major critics, Selvapiana’s wines are enjoying demand like never before. Their brand new 2011 Chianti Rufina release bursts from the glass with a translucent black cherry robe followed by classic Chianti aromas of Bing cherries, red plums, rose petals, dark leather and calcareous earth. Plump and fleshy on the palate, the wine frames its palate-staining expressions of Morello cherry and plum fruit with plentiful chewy tannins and juicy acidity. Notes of sweet tobacco, star anise and cloves join resurgent waves of smoky limestone minerality on the wine’s long, spicy finish. Buy this beauty by the case to enjoy now and over the coming decade with grilled burgers and steaks, Tuscan bean stews, rosemary-scented roast lamb and hearty eggplant casseroles. Chock up another winner for Fattoria Selvapiana!

2010 Masi, Campofiorin, Rosso del Veronese IGT, Veneto, Italy 14.99/161.89

This is perhaps the finest Campofiorin release to grace our palates. Masters of the traditional Venetian method of appassimento, or allowing a quarter of the wine’s grapes to dry and introducing them late in the season to induce a second fermentation, Masi’s Campofiorin is the genre’s undisputed classic and reference standard. Employing a traditional blend of 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara, Masi’s 2010 Campofiorin is everything one looks for in an appassimento wine. From the glass, the wine casts aromas of warm black cherries, mulling spices, tobacco and woodsy underbrush. Brisk and lively with impressive weightlessness on the palate, the Campofiorin explodes with cherry and cassis fruit accented by cinnamon, cloves, star anise and nutmeg. Plentiful, fine tannins sneak in mid-palate and segue the wine to its long, red and black fruit finish, adding hints of button mushrooms, sarsaparilla, camphor and dusty limestone soil signature. Pair now with hearty game dishes, mushroom-sauced pastas and slow braises, or allow it to mature five to fifteen years in your cool cellar. This is a sensational Campofiorin and a must-try selection!

2008 Caprili, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 37.99/410.29

The great Caprili estate epitomizes what we love and champion about authentic, classically proportioned, old-school Brunello. In the cool 2008 vintage, Caprili delivers a Brunello of impressive depth, body and character. In the glass, The 2008 Brunello casts a cherry core gradating to a traditional orange rim followed by complex aromas of black cherries, leather, herbs and tobacco. On the palate, the wine is packed with palate-staining black cherry fruit backed by notes of licorice, juniper and fine, buffered tannins. Finishing long and sumptuous, the ’08 releases complex waves of leather, plums, licorice, sweet tobacco, dried herbs, calcareous soil and fruitwood smoke. Fans of old-school Brunello will delight in this new release, as will newcomers to the genre. Pair this beauty with very hearty Tuscan fare or, better yet, lay a case in your cellar for seven to fifteen years to allow the genie in the bottle to do its magic. Great wine, and a sensational value.

2012 Roagna, Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy (O) 15.99/172.69

The Roagna family farms its fruit and vinifies its wines in the same manner as in the mid-1800s when the winery was founded. Roagna’s 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba, crafted from 35-year-old vines situated in Barbaresco’s hallowed Pajè cru, exemplifies the traditional styling of the Dolcetto grape in the intense and concentrated 2012 vintage. An opaque black ruby color in the glass, the Dolcetto casts aromas of sun-warmed cherries, star anise, walnuts, violets and crushed bay leaf. Suave on the attack, the wine tingles the palate with mouthwatering tannins alongside suggestions of black cherries, button mushrooms, tar, leather and mint. Juicy, livening acidity and further waves of tannins lift the wine’s deep core of cherry fruit while tertiary notes of walnut skin, sotto bosco, leather and wild yeast tones make this one of the most thrilling and distinctive Dolcettos in memory. Pair this authentic Dolcetto with pizza, burgers, risotto, potato casseroles and braised pork. Enjoy now and over the coming five years.

PORTUGAL – RED

2009 Faldas da Serra, Quinta das Maias, Vinho Tinto, Dao, Portugal 11.50/124.20

This is easily one of the most unique, appetizing and thrilling dry red wines we’ve tasted from Portugal. Based on a blend of the indigenous varietals – Jaen (60%), Touriga Nacional (25%), Alfrocheiro (10%) and Tinta Roriz (5%) – Quinta das Maias’s Dao fuses the elegance and velvety texture of a fine traditional Rioja with a dense core of black fruits and a sauvagerie all its own. Opaque black cherry in the glass, Quinto das Maias’s tinto offers aromas of spicy red cherries, Damson plums, crushed herbs and graphite minerals. Lush, broad and delicious the instant it hits your palate, the Maias’s tinto seamlessly fuses its plump cherry and plum fruit with accents of menthol, dried orange peel and toffee barrel notes. Plush and palate staining, the Maias tinto finishes deliciously long with just enough soft, round tannins to frame its fleshy black fruit expressions and amplify its spicy minerality and peppery top notes. Enjoy now or over the next five years with cured meats, grilled pork, and red meat preparations featuring smoky pimentón.


WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE

2012 Stephane Orieux/Domaine de la Bregeonnette, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley, France (O) 13.99/ 151.09

This is superb, refreshing Muscadet that’s impeccably made and oh-so-easy to drink. Located in Vallet, the heart of the Muscadet zone, Orieux’s organic vines grow on a soil rich in mica-schist, which imparts the wine with great purity, elegance and fruitiness. Pale green tinted lemon gold in the glass, Orieux’s Muscadet bursts with high-toned, wild yeast-driven aromas of schist-infused lemon-lime fruit, crisp yellow apples and raw almonds. Brisk and juicy, the wine impales the palate with mineral-driven citrus fruit accented by hints of quinine, bitter herbs and lemongrass. Fresh and invigorating, the wine finishes with vibrant lemon and quince fruit buoyed by soft, smoky minerality. Pair this delicious Muscadet now and over the coming five years with all things shellfish, summer squashes, freshwater fish dishes in a beurre blanc sauce, seafood pastas, lightly dressed salads and braised leafy greens.

2012 Dom. Michel, Vire-Clesse, Tradition, Burgundy, France 22.99/248.29

This is Vire-Clesse in its driest and most mineral expression The appellation was created to honor the great dry Chardonnay wines produced in the Maconnais villages of Vire and Clesse and their immediate environs. Medium lemon-gold in the glass, Domaine Michel’s Vire-Clesse, fashioned from 50-year-old vines, casts aromas of orange blossoms, pear, malt, butter and smoke. On the palate, the wine shows impressive flesh while fusing citrus and pear fruit with suggestions of ginger, kumquat, honeysuckle and saline minerals. Rich, vibrant and quite exotic, the Vire-Clesse finishes with suggestions of limestone dust mingling with quince, yellow apple and citrus fruit. Pair now and over the coming five years with salmon, swordfish, scallops, chicken cordon bleu, potatoes and washed-rind cheeses.

2011 Vins Auvigue, Macon-Fuisse, Le Moulin du Pont, Burgundy, France 15.99/172.69

Fans of affordable, terroir-expressive white Burgundy will delight in this wine. 2011 was a warm, inviting vintage that created precocious, immediately appealing wines. Vins Auvigue’s Macon-Fuisse conveys a rich, classic Chardonnay nose of buttery lemon fruit underpinned by Burgundy’s inimitable limestone goût de terroir. On the palate, the wine changes course to present a more saline mineral current overlaid by layers of buttery pastry crust and Golden Delicious apple fruit. Suggestions of quince, lemon curd and brioche provide additional complexity on the long finish. Serve now or over the coming five years with salmon, roast chicken and light pork preparations.

GERMANY – WHITE

2012 Josef Bernard-Kieren, Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Spätlese **, Mosel, Germany (S) 20.99/ 226.69 reg. 22.99

From the exceptional and exceptionally small 2012 Mosel vintage, the award-winning Bernard-Kieren estate presents this deep green-gold Riesling two-star Spätlese that jumps out of the glass with brilliant, slate-driven lime, Granny Smith apple and yellow melon fruit. Rich, and belying its modest 8% alcohol, Bernard-Kieren’s Spätlese saturates the palate with ripe pear, apple and tangerine fruit intensified by notes of clean, honeyed botrytis and delicious cinnamon oil. Brisk, refreshing and gorgeously balanced, the wine finishes clean and subtly sweet with further hints of candied lemon, dried orange peel and waves of dissolved blue slate minerality. Winner of the prestigious Goldene Kammerpreismünze (Gold Medal), this riveting Riesling drinks more like an expensive Auslese and is a terrific value for the quality it delivers. Enjoy this beauty now and over the coming two decades with pan roasted squab, mildly spiced Chinese, Thai and Indian cuisines, assertive washed-rind cheeses and rich potato preparations.

ITALY - WHITE

2011 Concilio, Pinot Grigio, Contessa Giovanna Manci, Trentino, Northeastern Italy 15.99/172.69

Concilio’s Pinot Grigio hails from the prestigious, hilly, southeast-facing Contessa Giovanna Manci vineyard at 1,150 feet above sea level. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, Concilio’s 2011 Pinot Grigio opens with high-toned suggestions of acacia blossoms, white peaches, gravelly minerals and shaved fennel. Brisk and minerally on the attack, the wine fuses juicy citrus fruit with crunchy hints of anise and a persistent gravelly mineral undercurrent. Long, lingering and oh-so-refreshing, the Contessa Giovanna Manci Pinot Grigio finishes with a core of juicy Golden Delicious apple and fleshy Bartlett pear fruit complicated by fresh mountain herbs and further hints of clay and gravel minerality. This is reference-standard Pinot Grigio and a steal for its tariff. Pair with all things seafood, light pork dishes, mild cheeses and vegetable frittatas.

2012 Monte Tondo, Soave Classico, Monte Tondo, Veneto, Italy (O) 13.99/151.09

The Monte Tondo estate’s 62 acres of vineyards are situated in some of the finest sites in the historic Soave Classico zone. This beauty comes exclusively from the Monte Tondo vineyard, which is nestled in the hills of the Soave Classico zone just a few miles from Verona. In the glass, Monte Tondo’s 100% Garganega Soave Classico projects a vivid lemon-gold color followed by a cool, vibrant nose of almonds, honeysuckle blossoms, Mirabelle plums, Comice pears and fresh herbs. On the palate, brisk, vibrant Golden Delicious apple and Meyer lemon fruit mingle with complex suggestions of sweet almonds and flinty minerals. The 2012 Monte Tondo finishes brisk, long and satisfying with reprises of yellow fruits and delicate flinty minerals. A new entry to our market’s Soave sweepstakes, this single-vineyard expression is a force to be be reckoned with. Pair it now and over the next two years with shellfish, trout, halibut, sauteed green vegetables and seafood pastas.

PORTUGAL – WHITE

2011 Faldeas da Serra, Quinta das Maias, Vinho Branco, Dao, Portugal 11.50/124.20

Portuguese white wines continue to wow us with their unique fruit and soil expressions and their low prices. Quinta das Maias’ 2011 Vinho Branco, a blend of Malvasia Fina (50%), Encruzado (30%), Verdelho (15%), and Cercial (5%), offers a deep lemon-gold hue and aromas of green apples, Bartlett pears, cinnamon bark and smoky schistose minerals. Tense and focused on the palate, the wine projects shimmering impressions of citrus, pear and green melon fruit, while introducing complex notes of lemon thyme, straw and chamomile. The 2011 Vinho Branco finishes brisk and snappy with suggestions of lemongrass, crisp green melons and crunchy Pippin apples followed by an appetizing dusting of schistose minerals. Highly distinctive, bone dry and bristling with acidity, this Portuguese white blend is the perfect pairing for pan-roasted brook trout, broiled halibut and tapas featuring potatoes, prawns and octopus. Enjoy now and over the coming two years.

SPAIN – WHITE

2012 Adegas Morgadío, Albarino, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain 17.99/194.29

Morgadío’s Albarinos are at the very highest echelon in their genre. To wit, this sensational example from the 2012. A brilliant green-gold color in the glass, Morgadío’s Albarino exudes class with saline-driven aromas of pear, white peach, ginger and lime. Brisk and intense, the wine saturates the palate with sensations of lime, agave, orange blossoms, lemon balm and salty sea breeze. Fresh, zippy and bristling with sensations of marine minerals, the Morgadío Albarino finishes with tensile acidity and appetizing suggestions of medicinal herbs. This is world-class Albarino and a joy to drink by itself or as a partner to prawns, oysters on the half shell, steamed clams, vegetable tortillas, sashimi and mild cheeses.
Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar: 91 Points

2012 Jordi Oliver Conti, (JOC) Godello, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain 15.99/172.69 reg. 18.99

The Valdeorras’ indigenous Godello varietal is enjoying a brisk revival thanks to distinctive herbal aromas and its ability to convey the nuances of its site. Visionary winemaker Jordi Oliver Conti’s 2012 Godello casts a lovely lemon gold color from the glass followed by aromas of fennel, pears and piquant minerals. Brisk and racy on the palate, JOC’s 2012 Godello brims with pungent minerals and bitter quinine infused in a base of Bartlett pears and key lime fruit. Riveting acidity, sensations of preserved ginger and persistent minerality on the finish make this Spain’s answer to a top-notch Muscadet or a bone dry Savennières. Enjoy now and over the coming year by itself or as a complement to seafood and vegetable paellas, broiled halibut, squid tapas, raw clams and grilled prawns. Superb Godello!

 

ROSÉ WINES

OREGON – ROSÉ

2013 Teutonic Wine Company, Rose, Laurel Vineyard, Chehelem Mountains, Oregon (S) 16.99/183.49

The Teutonic Wine Company’s brand new rose release is so fantastic that it has us dancing around the counter! Pale orange-tinted salmon in the glass, Teutonic’s rose is fashioned exclusively of Pinot Noir from the high-altitude Laurel Vineyard in the Chehelem Mountains. Spontaneously fermented in neutral oak barrels, the wine fills your glass with aromas of tart cherries, freshly crushed cranberries, wild yeast top notes, and hints of white pepper. Crisp, crunchy and mouthwatering, the 2013 rose offers suggestions of rhubarb, Rainier cherries and ruby grapefruit that play with dusty dissolved minerals and a deep, earthy note. Long, savory, and totally satisfying on the finish, the wine’s 10.3% alcohol bodes well for lots of delicious drinking over the coming warmer months. Pair this beauty over the coming year with broiled salmon, seared ahi, roast chicken, summer squashes and fresh chèvres. But be sure to buy your stash now, as this wine will fly off the shelf in no time. Very limited.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

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STORE HOURS:
Mon.-Sat. 10am - 6pm


FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

APRIL 4
It’s the sublime red wine of Piedmont: Nebbiolo!

APRIL 18
Valpolicella: Great wines from the Veneto.

MAY 2
Albariños: Superb wines of Spain.


SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee

APRIL 5
• Daniel Immich & The Tuttles (Teutonic Winery) will be on hand with wines from Germany and Oregon. -- Great wines from Italy. Concilio Pinot Grigio, Masi Campofiorin Rosso del Veronese, Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina, and Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba.

APRIL 12
• Riesling Meister Ewald Moseler will pour a great selection of our favorite grape…Riesling.
• Pinots from Oregon: Coelho Winery Pinot Noir Atração and St. Innocent Pinot Noir Vitae Springs Vineyard.

APRIL 19
• Touring France: Stéphane Orieux Dom. de la Brégeonnette Muscadet, Berthet-Rayne Cairanne, Vins Auvigue Mâcon-Fuissé, Dom. Michel Viré-Clessé, Chanteleuserie Bourgeuil Cuvée Alouettes, and Ch. Val de Roc Bordeaux Supérieur.

APRIL 26
• From Iberia: Jordi Oliver Conti (JOC) Godello, Faldas da Serra Quinta das Maias Vinho Tinto and Vinho Branco, and Morgadio Albarino.
• From Italy: Monte Tondo Soave Classico, Brezza Barbera d’Alba Cannubi Muscatel, and Caprili Brunello di Montalcino.


SPECIAL EVENT:

2011 JOSEPH ROTY
BURGUNDY TASTING
Tues. April 22, 6:30 p.m.

You are invited to a tasting of superb Burgundies from Joseph Roty. More information is on our website. Seating is limited. Prepayment secures your reservation. Fee: $75 per person.

Contact us or reserve online now.


WINE DINNER:

SARDINIAN WINE DINNER
at Bastas Trattoria with Alfonso Gagliano of Sella & Mosca
Weds. April 23 at 6:30 p.m.

A wine dinner to remember! Join Alfonso Gagliano, the winemaker from Sardegna’s foremost winery, Sella & Mosca. A multi-course pairing dinner will be prepared and served at Bastas Trattoria in Portland. Seating is limited and reservations must be made through L&E. Fee: $65 per person, inclusive.

Contact us or reserve online now.


CHAMPAGNE DINNER
at Roe Restaurant
Sun. April 27 at 6:30 p.m.
Sorry - sold out!

 


B = biodynamic methods; CO = certified organic; O = organic; S = sustainably farmed

© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Information and prices apply during the current month only. Wine availability and prices are subject to quantity on hand. We are not responsible for mispriced items in the newsletter.