Newsletter - January 2008

RED WINES

OREGON – RED:

2005 J. K. Carrière, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 37.99/406.00
Jim Prosser, J.K. Carrière owner-winemaker, studied under Véronique Drouhin of DDO, Doug Tunnell of Brick House Winery and Christophe Roumier of Domaine George Roumier in Burgundy before launching his own label in 1999. In eight short years, Prosser has distinguished himself as one of Oregon’s most dedicated and talented vignerons. Following raves from our recent Oregon winemaker showcase, we’re delighted to feature Prosser’s 2005, a brooding black-plum masterpiece of an Oregon Pinot Noir. Reminiscent of his memorable ’02, Prosser’s 2005 is complex, offering black cherries and cassis notes that intermingle with snappy red currants and loganberries. Deep inside is a stony, minerally core of terroir that will enchant even the most rabid Burgundy fan. For those who relish the genie that emerges only with age and care, here is an Oregon Pinot Noir in the reserved, age-worthy style that will best be appreciated after seven to ten years in your cool cellar. Pair it with simplest and heartiest of fare, particularly duck, goose, squab and other rich game birds.

FRANCE – RED:

2006 Château d’Oupia, Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 9.99/107.00
In the hinterlands of the Languedoc lies the ancient village of Minervois and its rugged, rocky terrain.
Minervois’ arid climate, high altitude and rocky soils produce wines renowned for the excellence, character and value relative to their southern French peers. Blended from 60% Carignan (from vineyards up to 100 years old), 30% Syrah and 10% Grenache, the Château d’Oupia’s Minervois is an ideal cold-weather, bistro wine. Opaque black-garnet in the glass, the wine offers classic scents of spicy cherries, cloves and dried herbs. Rich, elegant, and generous in the mouth, the wine adds suggestions of plums, tar, garrigue and black pepper before segueing to a long, spicy, peppery finish. Sadly, d’Oupia’s vivacious owner André Iché passed away in November after sixty years as one of the Minervois’ leading lights. Raise a glass and toast Iché’s legacy with his penultimate vintage. Enjoy now or over the coming two years with chicken, lamb and hearty, herb-driven vegetarian dishes.

2005 Château Jouclary, Cuvée Tradition, Cabardès, France 9.50/101.50
This dense black-purple winner from Château Jouclary blends the suppleness of Merlot with spicy Grenache and leathery Syrah to create a hearty, delicious winter red. The nose offers plummy fruit framed by an expression of the stony terroir on which the fruit was grown. On the palate, the ripe fruit meets with complex hints of tar, menthol, cinnamon bark, bitter chocolate and licorice. The wine’s long, lingering finish has the structure and grip to work well now with hearty fare, as well as to reward several years’ aging in a cool cellar. This is fascinating wine – somewhat akin to a hypothetical cross of a fine St. Émilion and a lusty Languedoc rouge – and one that’s sure to please fans of intense, rustic reds. Pair this unique rouge with hearty roast of beef, lamb, pork, cassoulet and other rich and savory winter fare.

2006 Colombelle Rouge, Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne, Gascony, France 7.99/85.50
Colombelle’s delicious, thirst-quenching blanc is always one of staff’s favorite summer quaffers. Now we are presenting the Colombelle rouge, a delicious and satisfying everyday red featuring southwestern France’s distinctive varietal, Tannat. From the first sniff to the end of the glass, the wine wowed us as much as the estate’s white does! The Colombelle rouge opens with deep black-crimson color and spicy aromas of tar, dried herbs and black cherries. Light, transparent and utterly delicious, the Colombelle rouge deftly balances the Tannat’s tarry side with Merlot’s soft suppleness and Cabernet Sauvignon’s cedary edge. The result is the ideal everyday red wine that will satisfy from the depths of winter into spring and early summer. Enjoy now and over the coming year as a lovely party wine, or serve as a complement to roast chicken, burgers, hors d’oeuvres, quiches, rabbit and turkey.

ITALY – RED:

2004 Masi Campofiorin, Ripasso, Rosso del Veronese, Veneto, Italy 14.99/160.00
The granddaddy of all Ripasso wines, Masi’s Campofiorin employs the special technique of performing a second fermentation on semi-dried grapes to add body, richness and weight to the classic Valpolicella. In 2004 the results are fantastic. An opaque black plum color, the ’04 Campofiorin opens with heady aromas of sun-warmed plums and black cherries, dusty earth and dried orange peel. Fresh and vibrant on the attack, the Campofiorin balances ripe plum and cherry fruit with brisk acidity, delicate tannins and complex suggestions of menthol and bitter almond skin. Lip-smacking acidity brightens the wine’s dense fruit expression and leaves a wonderful sense of lightness and verve on the finish. This is the great Masi estate’s signature wine, and it scales new heights in the classic 2004 vintage. Enjoy it now with roast duck, chicken, pork or buttery pasta dishes, or lay some down for ten or twelve years to enjoy with hard cheeses or dishes featuring wild mushrooms.

2004 Fattoria di Fèlsina, Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy 26.99/288.50
Year in and year out, the great Fèlsina estate makes what many Tuscany aficionado’s assert is reference point Chianti Classico. Recently we featured to great raves Fèlsina’s 2004 Chianti Classico normale. Now it’s our distinct pleasure to offer the estate’s otherworldly 2004 riserva. Deep black-garnet gradating to an orange rim, Fèlsina’s 2004 riserva opens with notes of dried plums, saddle leather and dusty earth. Based on 100% Sangiovese from 50+-year-old vines, Fèlsina’s riserva is rich and velvety on the attack, yet tightens mid-palate to reveal its immense structure. Combining ripe, sappy plum and black cherry fruit accented by hints of cedar, pencil lead and bay leaf, the wine offers a special early glimpse at its exceptional depth. It can be paired now and over the short term with eggplant dishes and grilled beef, but the patient among you are advised to hold onto a cache for enjoyment when the wine reaches its maturity in ten to fifteen years. Only then with it show all of its latent depth and complexity.

2004 Benanti, Rossodiverzella, Etna Rosso, Sicily, Italy 15.99/171.00
Dr. Giuseppe Benante is widely credited for reviving Etna’s indigenous grape varieties and for raising the quality standard in this tradition-rich wine region. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, two of Sicily’s traditional workhorse grape varietals, find their finest expressions when planted on Mt. Etna’s black, mineral-rich slopes. Based on a blend of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio, Benanti’s 2004 Rossodiverzella offers a lovely black-tinged ruby robe and warm, inviting aromas of ripe cherries, mesquite smoke and tarry earth. On the palate, the Rossodiverzella transitions from a delicious, fruit-forward approach to a mid-palate of tar, leather, dried bay leaf and ginseng to a back-palate filled with fine ripe tannins, firm acidity and smoky minerals. This is an utterly distinctive southern Italian food wine that will prove a lovely complement to dishes featuring rich tomato sauces, pine nuts, olive oil and fennel. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

2002 Serafini & Vidotto, Phigaia, After the Red, Rosso, Venezia IGT, Veneto, Italy 16.99/181.50 reg. 21.99
For those of you who remember Serafini & Vidotto’s amazing Bianco dell’Abbazia last year, we are thrilled to offer the estate’s red, a wine as distinctive and captivating as its predecessor. A blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the Phigaia’s dense black plum color leads to complex aromas of pencil lead, cedar shavings, bitter chocolate, dried orange peel and gravelly soil. Initially restrained, the Phigaia broadens on the palate to reveal nuances of menthol, chocolate and stones followed by firm acidity and fine tannins. Long and Bordeaux-like on the finish, the wine adds hints of earth, leather, dried herbs and vanilla bean. Throw this Italo-Bordeaux into your next Bordeaux blind tasting and see how well it stacks up. Otherwise enjoy it now and over the next seven years with beef Wellington, standing roast of beef, rack of lamb and other classic Bordeaux pairings. A great value!

PORTUGAL – RED:

2005 Quinta do Correio, Dão, Portugal 11.99/128.00
Dry Portuguese red wines, especially those from the Dão region in north central Portugal, are making a big splash thanks to their strikingly unique bouquets, their food-friendliness and their affordability. Quinto do Correio’s Vinho Tinto, a classic blend of 40% Jaen (Tinta Mencia), 30% Touriga Nacional, 20% Alfrocheiro and 10% Tinto Roriz, opens with an opaque black-plum color and bright, spicy aromas of freshly crushed cranberries, pink peppercorns and mace. Brisk, lively and highly distinctive on the palate, the Correio continues with suggestions of cherries, smoked paprika, fruitwood smoke and air-dried beef. Intense and structured on the back-palate with plentiful round tannins and crisp acidity, the Correio transitions to a long, bright finish, reprising notes of red fruits, smoked/cured meats and freshly ground exotic spices. This is a lovely choice for antipasti plates, pork or beef rubbed with smoky Spanish pimentón, salamis, teriyaki and other marinated and seasoned meats. Enjoy over the next two years to capture the wine’s spice and freshness.

WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE:

2006 André-Michel Brégeon, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley, France 13.50/144.50
As with all wines in the Kermit Lynch portfolio, Brégeon’s Muscadet speaks of the region’s soil, environment and culture. Here we have a Muscadet that not only carries the classic Muscadet nuances of smoky minerals, wildflower honey and lemon curd, but also displays a savory hint of sea salt courtesy of the nearby Atlantic Ocean. A gorgeous light honey color in the glass, Brégeon’s Muscadet opens with hints of ripe green melons before tightening mid-palate to reveal an intense acidic spine and a bracing undercurrent of salty, flinty minerals. Juicy, lemony acidity assists the wine’s transition from its palate to finish where hints of kiwi, gooseberries and fresh lemons add to another burst of honeyed fruit. Smoky, salty, minerally and above all, a natural partner to oysters, freshwater fish, crustaceans and clams, Brégon’s Muscadet is delicious now, but will easily reward five to seven years in your cool cellar. Enjoy with oysters on the half-shell, scallops, crab, sole, cod, octopus and other fruits de mer.
A Kermit Lynch selection.

2005 Zind Humbrecht, Pinot d’Alsace, Alsace, France 20.99/224.50
Precious little needs to be said about Olivier Humbrecht and his exemplary biodynamic domaine, Zind Humbrecht. The darling of just about every critic, Domaine Zind Humbrecht is the rare master of all Alsace’s noble varietals. The domaine’s affordable, but in no way entry-level, Pinot d’Alsace is a blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois from the prestigious Herrenweg, Clos Windsbuhl and Rotenberg vineyards. Deep golden in the glass, the wine explodes with aromas of fig, apricot and smoky botrytis. Rich, honeyed and yet completely dry on the palate, the wine offers mineral-infused notes of quince, meyer lemon, clementine orange and honeydew melon before introducing a lashing of intense, bracing acidity and segueing to a long, smoky, mineral-driven finish. Impressive now but sure to repay years in the cellar, Zind Humbrecht’s ’05 Pinot d’Alsace is a natural partner for duck à l’orange, braised pork, rilettes, pâtés and other full-throttle dishes needing a full-bodied wine with enough oomph to stand up to the dish and enough acidity to cut through the richness. An affordable Alsatian masterpiece.

2005 Domaine des Forges, Savennières, Moulin du Gué, Loire Valley, France 16.99/181.50
Savennières is the world’s most confounding and intellectually compelling white wine. From bone dry and uncompromisingly mineral to sweet, plus and honeyed, it takes on more faces than Lon Chaney and wears them all well. Emphasizing soil-driven, menthol aromatics, the Domaine des Forges 2005 Moulin du Gué fuses Savennières’ pungent, intense schistose minerality with richness and early approachability. The des Forges tames Savennières’ savage mineral nature by capturing and projecting the Chenin’s richness and a delightful peach fruit expression. Pale straw in the glass, the Domaine des Forges Savennières attacks the palate with zesty acidity and brisk minerality before broadening mid-palate to reveal the Chenin Blanc’s rich fruit character of honeydew melon, bartlett pear and yellow peach. Smoky, mineral-driven and undeniably Savennières, the des Forges has crafted a beauty that will appeal to both longtime fans of the appellation as well as those who are new to the genre. Enjoy this Loire Valley marvel now and over the coming decade with delicate white-fleshed fish dishes in a beurre blanc sauce, pork, veal, hare, duck and roast chicken with herbs.

2006 Jean-Luc Colombo, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Les Abeilles, Rhône Valley, France 9.50/101.50
Jean-Luc Colombo has expanded his portfolio to the Côtes du Rhône, where he brings the talents and procedures he perfected in Cornas to a more affordable sector. Colombo’s 2006 Côtes du Rhône blanc is a gorgeous blend of 70% Clairette and Granache Blanc complemented by 30% of the aromatic and complex Viognier and Roussanne. A deep straw-gold in the glass, the Les Abeilles bursts with aromas of wet stones, beeswax, menthol and hay. Complex beyond its humble designation, the wine fuses the richness and waxiness of the Clairette and Grenache Blanc components with the floral, honeysuckle and honeydew melon characteristics of the Roussanne and Viognier. The result is a delicious and complex wine that can be enjoyed as a simple, attention-grabbing aperitif or as a distinctive, terroir-driven white for lovers of Southern Rhône blancs. Versatile and delicious, this wine can be enjoyed now and over the next year with braised rabbit, eggplant casseroles and rich Mediterranean fare featuring aioli.

GERMANY – WHITE:

2004 Kees-Kieren, Riesling, Hochgewächs, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany 14.99/160.00
Hochgewächs (Hoke-guh-vecks) is the German term for a 100% Riesling QbA wine of superior ripeness and quality. The Kees-Kieren domaine, based in the grand cru village of Graach, specializes in intense, full-throttle wines that push the envelope on their classification but yet remain elegant, balanced and above all true to their terroir. A lovely pale gold in the glass accented by lilting green glints, Kees-Kieren’s Hochgewächs offers deep, penetrating aromas of honeydew melon, white peaches and glazed pears. Intense yet weightless on the palate, the wine packs tons of tangerine, apricot and peach fruit infused with a lashing of slatey Mosel minerality. Nimble and mineral-driven on the finish, the wine offers more fruit, intensity and minerality that one can reasonably expect for its humble 9% alcohol. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with roast pork shoulder, blanquette de veau, goose, quiches, omelets and as a bracing mid-course interlude.

ITALY – WHITE:

2005 Pieropan, Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy 13.50/144.50
The great Pieropan estate is the Veneto’s leading light for top quality Soave. This aromatic and resinous 2005 release, a blend of 90% Garganega and 10% Trebbiano di Soave, is grown on superbly situated hillside vineyards in Soave’s prestigious Classico zone. In the glass, glints of green accent the wine’s deep straw-gold color. The Pieropan’s opulent nose shows hints of almonds, lemon curd, eucalyptus and honeydew melon. On the palate, the Soave is ripe and ample, showing pure bartlett pear, green apple, almond and mineral notes. The finish is rich and long, adding juicy lemony fruit, a food-friendly bitter almond note, sappy pine nuts, crunchy minerals and bright, palate-cleansing acidity. Year in and year out, Pieropan’s expression of Soave is the reference standard. Pair this with shellfish, trout, halibut, and pasta dishes with seafood and enjoy over the next year.

2006 Casa alle Vacche, I Macchioni, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy 14.99/160.00
Casa alle Vacche I Macchioni Vernaccia is produced exclusively from the estate’s finest vineyard sites. Straw gold in the glass, the I Macchioni begins with complex, pure aromas of tangerine, almond paste and chalky minerals. Gripping, intense and full of character on the palate, the wine combines rich lemon curd fruit with calcareous minerality and lilting acidity. Long, honeyed and fresh, the wine finishes with hints of sweet almonds, pineapple, freshly squeezed lemons and flinty minerals. This is superb Vernaccia di San Gimignano of uncommon richness and character, and a superb choice to accompany seafood dishes in cream sauces, poultry, pork, veal, frittatas and vegetarian casseroles. Enjoy now and over the coming two years.

NEW ZEALAND – WHITE:

2005 Mount Nelson, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 13.99/149.50
When it comes to New World Sauvignon Blanc, there’s no place that comes close to Marlborough, New Zealand. With its combination of fresh, grassy, gooseberry-infused fruit coupled with an uncompromising smoky mineral impression, Marlborough simply grows grand cru Sauvignon Blanc. Mount Nelson is the New Zealand project of Tuscany’s Antinori family. Showing hints of green apple, passion fruit and pink grapefruit, the Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc fuses Old World sensibility and restraint with New World power. Clean, grassy and packed with herbal, basil-driven Sauvignon character, the Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc adds hints of kaffir lime leaves, grapefruit pith and flinty minerals on its long, juicy finish. Enjoy now and over the next year with briny oysters on the half-shell, crab, mussels and green vegetable omelets.

SOUTH AFRICA – WHITE:

2007 Mulderbosch, Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 14.99/160.00
If you ask us, Mulderbosch is the Cloudy Bay of South Africa. Where Cloudy Bay established itself as the innovative quality leader of New Zealand, so has Mulderbosch carried itself as the pioneering flag of quality for South Africa. We are delighted to see our beloved Chenin Blanc express itself with character and verve somewhere outside of its home in the Loire Valley. A lovely pale green-gold in the glass, Mulderbosch’s 2007 Chenin opens with smoky, soil-inflected aromas of lemongrass, lychee and beeswax. Crisp and bone dry on the palate, the wine is perhaps the finest expression of Chenin in the sec or dry style outside of Vouvray itself. The wine finishes intense, smoky and driven by its soil signature. This is fantastic wine that will knock the socks off of all Chenin Blanc lovers. Enjoy it now and over the coming seven years with white-fleshed fish dishes adorned with a beurre blanc sauce, mild poultry, asparagus, zucchini and other green vegetable soufflés.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
(off 22nd Ave.)
Portland, OR
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

Mon.-Sat. 10-6

CLOSED: Jan. 1--3
REOPEN: Friday, Jan. 4

:: In This Issue ::

Reds:

2005 J. K. Carrière Pinot Noir

2006 Château d’Oupia Minervois

2005 Château Jouclary Cuvée Tradition

2006 Colombelle Rouge Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne

2004 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso Rosso del Veronese

2004 Fattoria di Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva

2004 Benanti Rossodiverzella Etna Rosso

2002 Serafini & Vidotto Phigaia Rosso

2005 Quinta do Correio Dão

Whites:

2006 André-Michel Brégeon Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie

2005 Zind Humbrecht Pinot d’Alsace

2005 Domaine des Forges Savennières Moulin du Gué

2006 Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhône Blanc Les Abeilles

2004 Kees-Kieren Riesling Hochgewächs

2005 Pieropan Soave Classico

2006 Casa alle Vacche I Macchioni Vernaccia di San Gimignano

2005 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc

2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch

:: Tastings & Events::

Friday Tastings - 5:30-7:30, fee

Jan 4 The year begins with new wines from Oregon!

Jan. 18 A taste of great Bordeaux from St. Emilion.

Feb. 1 Taste superb Chablis from Domaine des Malandes and meet the owner-winemaker Lyne Marchive.

Saturday Tastings - from noon, no fee

Jan. 5 We’re back and pouring Zind Humbrecht Pinot d’Alsace, Dom. des Forges Savennières, Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc, Quinta do Correio, and Oregon’s own J. K. Carrière Pinot Noir.

Jan. 12 Tastes of France: Ch. d’Oupia, Ch. Jouclary Cuvée Tradition, Colombelle Rouge, André-Michel Brégeon Muscadet, and Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhône Blanc Les Abeilles.

Jan.19 From Italy: Masi Campofiorin Ripasso, Fèlsina Chianti Riserva, Pieropan Soave Classico, and Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia.

Jan. 26 Around the World: Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand), Kees-Kieren Riesling Hochgewächs (Germany), and Serafini & Vidotto Phigaia Rosso and Benanti Rossodiverzella (Italy).

Tasting at L&E:

THE LOUIS DRESSNER
ITALIAN PORTFOLIO

Tuesday, January 15, 6-7:30 p.m.

Meet the winemakers and taste the wines of: Luca Roagna, Alessandra Bera, Stefano Belloti, and Nadia Verrua, from the Piedmont; Silvio Messana and Chinati Vergano, from Chianti; and Arianna Occhipinti, from Sicily.

No reservations needed. Glass fee: $15.

MEET THE NEW NEIGHBORS:
THE WINE OUTFITTERS

We are very pleased to welcome our neighbors, The Wine Outfitters, to their new home next door at 2224 NW Quimby. We’ve known these talented wine cellar design and construction specialists for nearly ten years, and are always excited by their creations.

Stop by their showroom and admire their custom racking system, manufactured locally from sustainable hardwoods. We like their work so much, they built our in-store wine cellar!

Mon.-Fri.10-6 • www.wineoutfitters.com