March 2007

REDS

OREGON – RED:

WINE FUTURES:
2006 Ken Wright Cellars, Canary Hill, Cuvée L&E, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 425.00 case/225.00 half case
It’s that time of year again: claim your Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir while you can! On our annual trip to Carlton, once again we found the Canary Hill to be the most impressive vineyard in the Ken Wright Cellars 2006 vintage. So we crafted a barrel equal to the title, Cuvée L&E. Classic Canary Hill aromas of red cherry fruit, iron and game segue to a palate full of rich, succulent fruit, vanilla oak and spice, all wrapped in a wonderful, silky texture. This lip-smacking wine will drink well young, but should be able to cellar for another five years. Very limited. Payment confirms your order. Magnums and three liters available.

WASHINGTON – RED

2004 Abeja, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, Washington 37.99/405.00
Offering a wine that’s silkier, and more refined than Abeja’s 2003, winemaker John Abbott has delivered another winner. The 2004 Abeja Cab opens with a black purple color and a nose filled with intense cassis fruit mingling with barrel hints of toffee, smoke and vanilla. The wine greets the palate with a powerful expression of ripe, suave plum and black currant fruit, and then expands to reveal complex notes of milk chocolate, dark roasted coffee, lead pencil and cedar. The powerful and persistent palate impression segues to a long velvety, sumptuous finish highlighting suggestions of blackberry fruit, coffee, chocolate, caramel and cedar. Year in and year out, Abeja offers consistently compelling, complex and thrilling Washington Cab. Drink now with beef and lamb roasts, or lay some down in the cellar for five to seven years. Very limited.

FRANCE – RED:

2004 Grange Philippe, Costa Santene, Coteaux du Languedoc, France 10.50/112.50
Despite competition from Australia and South America, the Languedoc continues to issue the most distinctive, terroir-driven, affordably priced wines. The Costa Santene from the classically balanced 2004 vintage reveals a deep plum-ruby color and explosive aromas of ripe plums, tar, juniper and southern French garrigue. Syrah (70%) dominates the blend and gives the cuvée its distinctive plum, game and tar notes. The wine’s Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre (10%) components add layers of ripe cherry fruit, leather and sage. The result is a wine of great richness, versatility, character and complexity at an everyday price. Enjoy now and over the next two years with grilled lamb, ratatouille, eggplant lasagna, burgers and hearty recipes featuring garlic and rosemary.

2005 Château Labory, Fronsac, Bordeaux, France 12.50/133.50
Well, here it is: the first of the highly heralded 2005 red Bordeaux. So let’s see if all the hype was worth it. This ’05 Labory opens with a deep plum color in the glass and casts bright aromas of cedar shavings, black currants, plums and cloves. The Labory’s mouthfeel is soft, viscous and the palate is packed with spicy, cedar-tinged plum and cassis fruit. The wine finishes long, with further waves of currant fruit accented by hints of vanilla, dusty cedar, tobacco, dark roasted coffee and saddle leather. Yes, dear readers, this is a delicious wine and a splendid harbinger of good Bordeaux things to come. Enjoy this wine now with roast duck or hearty rib roasts of beef, but don’t be afraid to lay a quantity down in your cool cellar to help keep your paws off your classified growths.

2004 Domaine Grand Nicolet, Côtes du Rhône, France 10.50/112.50
To our delight we just found out that one of our favorite Rasteau producers, Domaine Grand Nicolet, also issues a lovely Côtes du Rhône. An opaque black-purple color in the glass, Nicolet’s Côtes du Rhône opens with deep, heady aromas of leather, garrigue, blackberries and plums. On the palate, the blend of 80% Grenache and 20% old vine Carignan expands with waves of ripe black raspberry fruit, pepper, licorice and game. The ripe-fruited palate yields to a spicy, firmly tannic finish, which adds notes of stony terroir, cloves and resinous sap. There’s no doubt that this under-priced overachiever will stand up easily to wines from more distinguished appellations like Rasteau, Vacqueyras, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. At its affordable price tag, you can drink this amazing value guiltlessly now or over the next seven years with hearty roasts of lamb, beef, cassoulet or ratatouille.

2003 Domaine Mouthes le Bihan, Vieillefont, Côtes de Duras, Southwestern France 11.99/128.00
A relative newcomer to the exemplary Louis/Dressner portfolio, the Domaine Mouthes le Bihan is an especially authentic wine, true to its terroir, and one that pairs exceptionally well with food. Mouthes le Bihan’s Vieillefont is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec that offers a lovely opaque Bordeaux plum color, floral scents of violets and woodruff, and herbal aromas of juniper and sage. Light and deft on the palate, the wine broadens to display deep cassis, plum and raspberry fruit accented by earthy notes of clay soil, tar and leather. The wine finishes as nimble and refreshing as it began, while adding complex notes of lavender, cedar and smoke. Pair this versatile wonder now and over the next three years with just about anything other than seafood and green vegetables.

ITALY – RED:

2005 G.D. Vajra, Langhe Rosso, Piedmont, Italy 11.99/128.00
Word from across the water is hinting that 2005 was a terrific vintage of balance and ripeness in the Piedmont. This Langhe Rosso release from the G.D. Vajra estate is very convincing early proof. Deep plum-ruby in color and sporting aromas of ripe plums, boysenberries, leather and earth, this blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto fires on all cylinders. Broad in the mouth with plenty of up-front fruit, the wine also shows serious acidity and structure that will make it perfect at the table with pasta tossed with butter and sage, grilled burgers, beef, lamb, pizza – anything that calls for a robust red. Piedmont fans will delight in the Vajra’s Barolo-like acidity and clay-limestone soil note on the wine’s finish. As such, this humble rosso is far more than meets the eye and a lot more wine than its price tag demands. Enjoy now and over the next three years.

2001 Castello di Salle, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy 19.99/213.50
Salle’s Montepulciano casts a deep black-plum color in the glass and deep aromas of dried black fruits, fruitwood smoke and earth. Suave and lush on the palate, the Castello di Salle offers notes of ripe plums, sun-warmed black cherries, bay leaf and tar. This velvety impression tightens on the back to reveal bright, food-friendly acidity and plentiful fine tannins. The wine finishes with further waves of black fruits, leather, smoke, tar and earth. This is an unusually deep, complex and satisfying Montepulciano that will give many Chiantis a run for the money. The depth of fruit and high-toned acidity make this a terrific accompaniment to rich tomato pasta dishes, grilled sausages, burgers, stews, game and hearty winter fare. The wine’s balanced structure bodes well for enjoyment now or with added complexity emerging over the coming five years.

2001 Fratelli Alessandria, Monvigliero, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 49.99/534.00 reg. 59.99
It’s always a treat to be able to offer authentic, old school Barolo at a great price. From the highly touted 2001 Barolo vintage, we find a true gem. And from the commune of Verduno in the far northern part of the district, we achieve Nebbiolo nirvana. The Fratelli Alessandria estate offers this traditionally styled Barolo featuring a transparent garnet color accented by a classic orange meniscus. Gorgeous cigar tobacco, rose petal and creamy gardenia blossom aromas waft from the bowl. On the palate, the classic young Barolo tannins and acidity announce themselves before deferring to notes of pie cherries, cinnamon and star anise. The wine finishes long and lip-smacking, with cherry fruit notes lingering among sensations of limestone minerality, menthol and firm tannins. The texture of this wine should be measured more by Burgundian standards than by modern Piemontese metrics. Burgundy fans and traditional Barolo fans, this is your wine. Enjoy now with creamy risotto or similarly rib-sticking fare or, better yet, lay a case down to enjoy over the next two decades.

2004 Giacomo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 26.99/288.50
Few wineries anywhere in the world have the peerless reputation of the great Giacomo Conterno estate. Now in the confident hands of Roberto Conterno and one of the last bastions of tradition in the Piedmont, the estate continues to issue reference-standard Barberas and Barolos. Conterno’s deep, saturated black plum colored ’04 Barbera dazzles with ripe aromas of plums, blackberries, sweet licorice and bing cherries. The wine’s sweet attack balances plum, cassis and tar notes with bright acidity and sweet tannins. The long, dense finish adds notes of tar, cranberries and smoke. Words don’t do justice to this wine. Just buy a bottle, or a case, and enjoy it over the next fifteen years with just about anything that doesn’t reside in water or isn’t too spicy. There is simply no better Barbera on the market. Only 20 cases available.
Robert Parker – 93 points

ARGENTINA – RED:

2003 Bodega Benegas, Don Tiburcio, Mendoza, Argentina 13.99/149.50
Mendoza is fast emerging as the premier South American region for classic Bordeaux varietals. The difference is that Malbec, rather than Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, is the star on these soils. The best results are deeply colored wines that offer Napa Valley ripeness of fruit with a unique flair all their own. Bodega Benegas’ Don Tiburcio is the estate’s Bordeaux-styled blend. Employing the Midas touch of Michel Rolland, the Don Tiburcio marries sweet, lush cherry and plum fruit with dazzling spicy cinnamon and clove notes. A blend of 50% Malbec, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc and 16% Merlot, the Don Tiburcio offers delicious licorice-scented cherry fruit accented hints of plums, red currants, vanilla bean and star anise. The velvety, palate-staining fruit expression adds soft framing tannins on the wine’s long, lingering finish. This is an exemplary, modern interpretation of the classic Bordeaux blend and one to satisfy without the First Growth or Cult Cab price tag. Enjoy now or over the next three years with roasts of beef, pork, duck or potato-based casseroles.

WHITES

OREGON / WASHINGTON - WHITE:

2005 Cameron, Chardonnay, Columbia Gorge, Washington/Oregon 13.99/149.50
Cameron’s John Paul is at it again. Accenting his impressive portfolio with reasonably priced Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Columbia Gorge, Paul continues his unbroken streak of high QPR wines for those of us who love to drink locally and affordably. Deep gold in the glass, with exotic aromas of hazelnut, walnut skin, coconut and smoke, Cameron’s Columbia Gorge Chardonnay hits the palate with creamy, leesy Chardonnay fruit accented by hints of nut oil, butter and wood smoke. Juicy and clean yet rich and buttery on the finish, the wine offers a ton of fruit and character for its modest price tag. Fresh and ready-to-go, we suggest enjoying this wine over the coming year with broiled halibut, quiche and spinach lasagna with a rich béchamel sauce.

AUSTRIA - WHITE:

2005 Buchegger, Grüner Veltliner, Holzgasse, Kremstal, Austria 14.99/160.00
Our love affair with Grüner Veltliner continues. Walter Buchegger is one of the Kremstal’s most highly regarded winemakers. His 2005 Holzgasse Grüner Veltliner combines Grüner’s distinctive lentil, white pepper and snap pea aromas with dusty loess soil notes. Initially rich and lush in the mouth, the Holzgasse immediately tightens to reveal its soil impression wrapped inside an envelope of citrus, green apple and pear fruit. Minerally on the finish, the Holzgasse finishes rich but bone dry, making it a wonderful companion to mildly spicy Asian cuisines (especially Vietnamese), light poultry and veal recipes, as well as freshwater fish dishes. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

FRANCE – WHITE:

2005 Domaine Eugène Carrel, Roussette de Savoie, Altesse, Savoie, France 12.99/139.00
Hot on the heels of last month’s Savoyard hit, we are delighted to offer Eugène Carrel’s equally thrilling Altesse. Altesse is the local dialect for the grape more commonly called Roussette. In the cool sub-Alpine climate of the Savoie, the Roussette gains exceptional crispness, vivacity and beguiling floral aromas. Carrel’s Altesse casts fascinating aromas of Bartlett pears, white flowers, smoky terroir and sweet lemons from the glass. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, the Altesse adds notes of honeydew melons and kiwi fruit. So vivid, so full of character, yet so light and balanced, this is the Lay’s potato chip of the wine world: bet you can’t drink just one glass! Lovely as an apéritif, Carrel’s Altesse will also pair wonderfully at the table with roast chicken, freshwater fish dishes, omelettes and soufflés featuring green vegetables, or crustaceans. Enjoy young, fresh and cool, but not too cold.

2005 Alain Brumont, Le Jardin Philosophique, Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec, Southwestern France 13.50/144.50
Alain Brumont is one of southwestern France’s most illustrious vignerons, making perhaps the finest expression of Madiran at Château Montus and a range of superb white wines from indigenous varietals. The varietal in this case is Petit Corbu, harvested late and fermented dry (sec). The wine’s bouquet is tropical, mushroomy, citrus-y and resinous. Its palate is intense, gripping and complex, with alternating waves of dried apricots, cling peaches, pine resin, candied citrus peel and ruby grapefruit. The Pacherenc finishes honeyed and juicy with head-spinning acidity and impressive length. This is truly a one-of-a-kind wine for those who enjoy exotic white wines like Viognier, Falanghina, Grüner Veltliner, Arneis and especially Savagnin. Drink now or over the next two years with goose, duck, hare and a myriad of hearty vegetarian casseroles.

2005 Domaine de Mirail, Colombard, Vin de Pays de Côtes de Gascogne, Southwestern France 8.50/91.00
Put aside your memories of Paul Masson California jug wines for a moment and cast your mind to southwestern France, where Colombard is still a major player. In Gascony where the climate is cooler, Colombard gains complexity, distinctiveness and verve. Pale straw colored in the glass, Mirail’s Colombard opens with ripe aromas of passion fruit, pineapple and mango. Crisp on the attack, the wine adds the complexity and juiciness of ripe lime and grapefruit before segueing to a clean, satisfying finish that belies its modest price tag. Enjoy young with roast chicken, duck, mild fish dishes and bean stews.

ITALY – WHITE:

2005 Prà, Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy 13.50/144.50
Soave is undoubtedly one of the most exciting and complex dry white wines in all of Italy. The 2005 Prà’s color is a beautiful straw gold in the glass; its aromas are redolent of lemon zest, meadow flowers, stones and sweet melon. The palate begins intense and linear, with crunchy citrus fruit followed by a left jab of crushed minerals. The finish is long and clean with hints of smoke complementing the mineral-filled citrus and melon fruit characters. Crisp, refreshing and complex beyond its price tag, this is a classic match for all types of seafood, and will complement anything and everything that swims or resides in water. It will also work nicely with vegetarian dishes featuring zucchini and summer squash. Drink now or over the coming year.

2005 Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Sardegna, La Cala, Sardinia, Italy 9.50/101.50
Sella & Mosca is one of Sardinia’s most progressive estates. Its La Cala Vermentino is named for a small, secluded cove fringed by violet-colored thistles on the edge of the Sella & Mosca estate. You can almost smell the thistles and the salty sea air in this crisp seafood-friendly southern bianco. A pale straw color in the glass, the La Cala casts aromas of briny sea mist, wet straw and white grapefruit. Crisp on the attack but broad in the mouth, the Vermentino adds suggestions of Clementine oranges, star fruit and smoky soil. Juicy and clean on the finish, Sella & Mosca’s Vermentino begs to be paired with seafood of all shapes and sizes. We especially suggest enjoying this young and cool beside a whole roasted branzino, grilled baby octopus, fried calamari and prawns sautéed in olive oil and garlic.

202 NW 21st Ave.
Portland, Oregon
1-800-903-9463 (WINE)
503-241-9463 (WINE)

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:: Events & Tastings ::

Friday Tastings

Saturday Tastings

:: Featured Wines ::

Sampler Case

2005 Lionel Bussy Chablis Sampler

Reds

2006 Ken Wright Cellars, Canary Hill, Cuvée L&E

2004 Abeja, Cabernet Sauvignon

2004 Grange Philippe

2005 Château Labory

2004 Domaine Grand Nicolet

2003 Domaine Mouthes le Bihan

2005 G.D. Vajra, Langhe Rosso

2001 Castello di Salle, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

2001 Fratelli Alessandria, Monvigliero, Barolo

2004 Giacomo Conterno, Barbera d’Alba

2003 Bodega Benegas, Don Tiburcio

Whites

2005 Cameron, Chardonnay

2005 Buchegger, Grüner Veltliner

2005 Domaine Eugène Carrel, Roussette de Savoie

2005 Alain Brumont, Le Jardin Philosophique

2005 Domaine de Mirail, Colombard

2005 Prà, Soave Classico

2005 Sella & Mosca, Vermentino

Friday Tastings: 5:30-7:30, fee

March 2 Special focus on California Cabernets: Some things old, some things new!

March 16 Here’s what’s happening in Barbera … d’Alba and d’Asti: G. Conterno, Vietti, Vajra, Roddolo, and more super stars.

March 23 SPECIAL EVENT! Meet the winemakers and taste delicious wines from the Veneto: We are joined by Graziano Prà, owner and winemaker from Prà, and Steffano Cesari, owner and winemaker from Brigaldara.

April 6 Does Alsatian wine get any better? The brilliant offerings of Domaine Weinbach.

Saturday Tastings: from noon, no fee

March 3 From France: Incroyable! Dom. de Mirail Colombard, Dom. Eugène Carrel Roussette de Savoie Altesse, A. Brumont Le Jardin Philosophique Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec, Dom. Mouthes le Bihan Vieillefont, and Ch. Labory Bordeaux.

March 10 Mama Mia! Sella & Mosca Vermentino di Sardegna, Prà Soave Classico, G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, G. Conterno Barbera d’Alba, Castello di Salle Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero Barolo

March 17 We’re pouring our brilliant Lionel Bussy Chablis Sampler. Plus: Buchegger Grüner Veltliner, Grange Philippe Costa Santene Coteaux du Languedoc, and Domaine Grand Nicolet Côtes du Rhône.

March 24 Cameron Chardonnay, Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon, and Bodega Benegas Don Tiburcio, and some surprises as well!

March 31 A Champagne Party at the new L&E! Let’s kick off 15 more glorious years.