Newsletter - April 2007
GERMAN RIESLING SAMPLER
Christoffel-Prüm ... 270. 00 case
Our newest
sampler consists of twelve bottles (3
bottles of each selection) of older
vintage wines from Christoffel-Prüm,
from whose cellars we’ve been
able to get extraordinary wines over
the years. Theses wines, while still
relatively young, will stun you with
their scintillating aromas and extraordinary
flavors! Don’t miss out: this
is a very limited offering.
- 1998 Urziger
Wurzgarten, Kabinett—Very
tasty, zippy palate now, but will continue
to develop for 4-5 more years.
- 1993 Wehlener
Sonnenuhr, Spatlese—A
great Riesling with a huge finish. Drink
one now, save the rest for 8-10 years.
- 1994 Urziger
Wurzgarten, Spatlese—Gorgeously
balanced palate, with lots of zing.
Irresistible wine.
- 1990
Urziger Wurzgarten, Auslese—Almost
perfect Auslese! Medium sweet fruit
with a great mineral finish. If you
don’t like this, you don’t
like German Riesling!
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FRENCH SAMPLER
2005 Languedoc Reds ...120.00
case
The 2005 wines from
the Languedoc are the most serious,
terroir-driven and immediately delicious
since 2001. These wines are simply fantastic!
Our twelve-pack sampler consists of
three bottles each of the following
wines:
- 2005
Col de Lairole, Coteaux du Languedoc—Penetrating
aromas of plums, black cherries, garrigue
and tar; bright and balanced on the
palate with sweet fruit, modest tannins
and vibrant acidity. Totally delicious!
- 2005
Mas de Guiot, Vin de Pays de Gard—Tarry,
earthy aromas and flavors wrapped around
a dense core of leathery black cherry
fruit; long earthy garrigue-driven finish.
Serious and very distinctive.
- 2005
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du
Languedoc, Montpeyroux—Dense
Châteauneuf-like aromas of wet
stones, dried herbs and freshly-roasted
peanuts. Even more Châteauneuf-like
on the palate with round tannins and
a vibrant core of tarry plum fruit.
A Kermit Lynch selection.
- 2005
La Sauvageonne, Les Ruffes, Coteaux
du Languedoc—This
selection is especially transparent
and drinkable; ripe kirsch fruit plays
with appetizing tannins and a piquant
peppery, herbal note. Superb!
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REDS
OREGON / WASHINGTON
– RED:
Just Arrived!
2004 Woodward Canyon "Artists Series"
No. 13, Cabernet, Colubia Valley, Washington
37.99 /370.00 case /195.00 half case
There’s
a reason we review this wine every year. Rick
Small, owner and winemaker at Woodward Canyon
is in the elite of Washington wine producers
and is ceaseless in his efforts to make great
Washington wines. The 2004 Woodward Canyon Artists
Series will be among the best he has made. According
to Rick, “2004 proved challenging in certain
Washington vineyards when an extreme winter
freeze occurred in early January. However, the
fruit that survived this extreme winter event
was exceptional and ripened beautifully under
near perfect conditions. This wine has a beautiful
nose of spicy oak and cedar integrated with
ripe black fruits and cherry. A firm rich mouth
feel begins with cassis and black berry leading
towards chocolate and mocha. The finish is generous
and long yet there is still restraint. While
this wine can be enjoyed now it will definitely
benefit from additional cellaring and with proper
storage should develop for ten years or more.”
As usual, this is a limited-production wine.
2005 Belle Vallée Cellars, Pinot Noir,
Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
Whoa! This is one distinctive Oregon Pinot.
Look at the wine’s deep plum-garnet color,
swirl it, breathe in its bouquet and you’ll
know this is something very special. Vibrant
aromas of pomegranate, lime zest, violets, tar
and cedar segue to a rich, mouth-filling palate
of Rainier cherries, loganberries and fresh-cracked
tellicherry pepper. A complex hint of smoked
Spanish pimentón transitions the Pinot
from its idiosyncratic yet totally delicious
palate to its long, smoky soil-driven, blueberry-tinged
finish. Hints of smoky oak peek through at the
very end of the Belle Vallée’s
finish, with just enough fine tannins to keep
the wine’s vivacious fruit in check. Enjoy
this very special Pinot now and over the next
five years with roast chicken, duck, beef and
hearty potato dishes.
CALIFORNIA –
RED
2004 Liberty School, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso
Robles, California 13.50/144.50
We really
don’t need to say much about this wine
or this producer. Liberty School is with regularity
one of the very finest California Cabernet values,
always selling at a price that’s laughably
low relative to the quality. Liberty School’s
2004 Cab, with its deep black-plum color and
rich black currant fruit, is another winner.
The wine bursts from the glass with a luscious
nose of brambly blackberry and plum fruit tinged
with barrel scents of caramel, sweet oak and
vanilla. In the mouth, the Liberty School is
full, silky, ripe and absolutely palate staining.
The black fruit continues from the palate to
the finish, where it’s complemented by
hints of black cherries, licorice, mint and
coconut. The satiny fruit is balanced by ripe,
round tannins that emerge on the back-palate
and frame the wine’s luscious fruit expression.
As always, this is a great Cabernet for grilled
meats, hard cheeses and hearty casseroles. Drink
over the next year or two.
FRANCE – RED:
2003 Chateau Bellevue la Forêt, Côtes
du Frontonnais, Southwestern France 8.50/91.00
From just north of Toulouse, the wines of the
Côtes du Frontonnais are finally beginning
to get the recognition they deserve. Their secret
ingredient is the Négrette grape, indigenous
to Cyprus but most at home on the iron-rich
quartz and gravel soils in this forgotten corner
of France. Chateau Bellevue la Forêt’s
blend of 50% Négrette and a 50% mélange
of Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Gamay and Syrah,
highlights the Négrette’s dense
black plum color complemented by aromas of violets,
leather and black currants. Violet-tinged blackberry
fruit saturates the palate, yet shows superb
transparency to the wine’s soil signature.
Dried herbs, leather, tar and smoke notes transition
the Bellevue la Forêt from the wine’s
rich palate impression to its long floral and
leather finish. The wine will complement a wide
array of foods, including lamb, pork, duck,
chicken, stews and vegetarian casseroles. Enjoy
now and over the coming four years.
2005 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgueil,
Cuvée Alouettes, Loire Valley, France
10.50/119.00
One of the most ignored and underrated of the
world’s great wines, Bourgueil, along
with its neighbor Chinon, are the planet’s
benchmarks for the noble Cabernet Franc grape.
The Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, long a staple
of the Kermit Lynch portfolio, offers a textbook
rendition of great Bourgueil with its 2005 Cuvée
Alouettes. In the glass, the wine gradates from
a deep indigo rim to an impenetrable obsidian
core. Aromas of gravelly clay earth and fresh
violets mark the Alouettes’ nose, while
herb and tobacco-tinged Cabernet Franc fruit
dances on the palate. Leather, herb and tobacco
notes dominate the wine’s long, gravelly
terroir-inspired finish; fine-grained tannins
and tangy acidity ensure that the Cuvée
Alouettes will compliment a wide range of dishes
including rich pork casseroles, gratin dauphinois,
hangar steaks, grilled eggplant—just about
anything but seafood and green vegetables. Enjoy
now and over the coming seven years.
2005 Perrin & Fils, Vacqueyras, Les Christins,
Rhône Valley, France 15.99/171.00
The Perrin family, owners of the famous Château
de Beaucastel, have expanded their scope in
the southern Rhône Valley and are now
presenting authentic, affordable wines from
the Cairanne, Gigondas, Rasteau, Vinsobres and
Vacqueyras appellations. Perrin’s Les
Christins Vacqueyras, a classic blend of 80%
Grenache and 20% Syrah, opens with a dense black-purple
robe and soaring aromas of black plums, fennel,
sweet cherries, tar and bay leaf. The wine greets
the palate with licorice-tinged cherry fruit,
fine tannins and a soft, velvety texture. Notes
of black licorice, dried herbs, wet stones and
cocoa emerge as the wine lingers on the palate
before segueing to a lush finish reprising the
cherry, licorice and prune notes. All of Perrin’s
leased vineyards are managed to the family’s
exacting specifications, and this care and dedication
show in Les Christins’ concentration,
character and intensity. Drink this beauty now
and over the coming seven years with game, grilled
meats, daubes and rich, hearty fare.
2005 Camplazens, Syrah, Vin de Pays d’Oc,
Languedoc-Roussillon, France 8.99/96.00
Situated in the prestigious “La Clape”
sector of the Languedoc, Château Camplazens
has created a delicious and unusually affordable
Syrah. Deep black-ruby in the glass, the Camplazens
Syrah announces itself with ripe black plum,
tar and fig aromas. Sweet on the attack, the
wine offers tarry, bacon-scented Syrah fruit
accented by a smoky soil signature, fine tannins
and bright acidity. Black licorice notes transition
the Camplazens’ ripe plum fruit to its
long, lingering finish, adding fine-grained
tannins, complex notes of black pepper, and
a reprise of sweet black licorice. A superb
value, we suggest drinking the Camplazens over
the next two years with grilled or roasted lamb
or with hearty, eggplant-rich ratatouille. Actually,
anything hearty hailing from the cookbooks of
southern France will find a wonderful mate with
this lusty Syrah.
ITALY
– RED:
2004 Li Veli, Passamante Negroamaro, Salento
IGT, Puglia, Italy 6.99/75.00
Negroamaro is the unsung hero of southern
Italian red wine grapes. In Li Veli’s
Passamante, Negroamaro finally gets to show
its nobility and strut its stuff as a solo performer.
The Passamante opens with an impenetrable black
core and a lovely vermilion rim. Sweet on the
nose with suggestions of fresh rose petals,
raisins, figs and licorice, the Passamante shows
its aristocratic nature on its spicy palate
chock full of dried cherries, tar, oregano,
sweet tobacco and star anise. On the finish,
the wine just sings, with a kaleidoscope of
nuances including sweet tobacco, brown spices,
dried figs, lead pencil and a complex, utterly
distinctive lash of smoky volcanic terroir.
Perfect with pizza margherita, pasta in a sun-dried
tomato, pine nut, garlic and olive oil sauce,
tomato-based casseroles and rich braised pork
recipes. Enjoy now and over the next five years.
2001 Trinchero, Barbera d’Asti Superiore,
Piedmont, Italy 13.99/149.50
Back in the mid- to late-80’s,
we drank tons of this wine and its old-vine
sibling, the Vigna del Noce. In the interim,
we’ve deeply lamented their absence from
our market. The winery certainly hasn’t
lost its touch, for here is the same black-garnet
color and sweetly aromatic Barbera that we so
fondly remember. Trinchero’s ’01
Barbera d’Asti opens with deep plum and
pie cherry fruit accented by suggestions of
sweet hazelnut flesh and bitter hazelnut skin.
Tar notes emerge on the back-palate and transition
the Barbera from its sweet fruit and hazelnut
expressions to a finish filled with suggestions
of black licorice, tar, earth and button mushrooms.
Lip-smacking tannins and vibrant, tangy acidity
underscore the wine from its initial attack
to its long finish. This is one heck of a Barbera.
Drink now or over the next decade with pastas
featuring butter-sage or mild tomato sauces,
pizza, burgers, casseroles, grilled burgers
and just about anything but bell peppers, green
vegetables and seafood. Welcome back!
WHITES
OREGON / WASHINGTON
– WHITE:
2005 Belle Pente,
Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon 14.99/160.00
Belle Pente’s Brian O’Donnell is
one of the Willamette Valley’s most gifted
winemakers. O’Donnell’s trademark
is his ability to obtain elegance and power
while simultaneously honoring the distinctive
natures of his vineyards’ terroirs. For
inspiration for his own rendition of Oregon’s
signature white grape, O’Donnell looks
to Alsace. Belle Pente’s ’05 Pinot
Gris opens with a pale straw gold color accented
by lime green glints. In the glass, the Pinot
Gris offers subtle, smoky aromas of Bartlett
pears, honeysuckle, key lime zest and kiwi.
The palate is bright and racy, with fresh, juicy
flavors of sweet lemons, honeydew melon and
tilleul honey. Exhibiting a freshness and verve
uncommon for Oregon Pinot Gris, Belle Pente’s
’05 is a remarkable drink by itself, or
a natural accompaniment for pan roasted halibut,
grilled summer squashes, poached trout and other
light, spring-oriented recipes. A truly lovely
Oregon Pinot Gris.
2006 Cameroni della Colline Rosse, (Cameron
Winery) Pinot Bianco, Giovanni, Oregon 12.50/134.00
Cameron Winery’s ineffable winemaker and
bon vivant, John Paul, pours his love for northern
Italian varietals into his alternative label,
Cameroni. Paying homage to the crisp, crunchy
white wines from the Alto Adige, Paul has fashioned
an Oregon Pinot Bianco worthy of comparison
to his inspiration. A lovely pale straw color,
Cameroni’s Giovanni opens with floral
aromas of sweet gardenia blossoms and ripe casaba
melon. Brightly acidic on the attack, the Giovanni
shows its citrus side with flavors of lime zest,
Meyer lemon and bergamot. Clean, zesty and as
irrepressible as its creator, the 2005 Giovanni
finishes as sprightly and vivacious as it began.
While the Giovanni could be served as an apéritif,
we believe that it will show its best at the
table as a complement to grilled halibut, cedar
plank salmon, zucchini frittati, omelettes,
brook trout and grilled vegetables. Enjoy over
the coming eighteen months.
FRANCE – WHITE:
2006 Colombelle, Vin de
Pays des Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest
France 6.50/70.00
There
are few better values in the world of white
wines than the simple, quaffable, “lemonade-for-adults”
vins de pays produced in southwestern France’s
Gascony region. This is the fourth appearance
in these pages for Colombelle, a fresh, zippy
Colombard (70%) and Ugni Blanc (30%) blend.
Pale straw-gold in the glass, the ’06
Colombelle offers a lively, herbal, grapefruit
nose and a rich, fruity palate loaded with notes
of juicy mango, melon, pineapple and yellow
peaches. The Colombelle’s finish adds
notes of basil, bitter orange, tangerine and
smoky minerals. Fresh off the boat and complete
with a handy screwcap, the ’06 Colombelle
is ready to dazzle your next gathering as a
zesty, attention-grabbing apéritif or
as a partner to fresh mild cheeses, steamed,
grilled or sautéed vegetables, poached
fish and light poultry preparations.
2005 Roland Lavantureux, Petit Chablis,
Burgundy, France 16.99/181.50
Roland Lavantureux, Kermit Lynch’s producer
of Chablis and Petit Chablis, is known to get
one of the most pure and honest expressions
of these distinctive terroirs from his humble,
village-level vineyards. Lavantureux’s
2005 Petit Chablis offers unmistakable flinty
oyster shell terroir from the moment the wine
hits the glass. Pale gold in color with the
slightest glint of green, Lavantureux’s
Petit Chablis is packed full of lemon curd and
melon fruit infused with a intense current of
steely limestone minerality. Firm acidity balances
the vintage’s rich fruit, and will serve
to cut through just about any kind of seafood
or shellfish you pair it with. Our favorite
pairing is a dozen Belon oysters sans mignonette:
slurp oyster, chew, chase with Lavantureux Petit
Chablis, wait for joy to your palate. Smile,
and repeat as necessary.
2005 André-Michel Brégeon, Muscadet
de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley,
France 12.99/139.00
At our insistence, our esteemed clients have
discovered the distinctiveness and age worthiness
of great Mu
scadet. It’s only a matter of time before
our favorite under-$15 white wine goes the way
of premier cru Chablis and fine Mosel Riesling.
Brégeon is Kermit Lynch’s key Muscadet
producer, and he has produced an unqualified
winner in the outstanding 2005 vintage. Brégeon’s
Muscadet presents a gorgeous light honey color
in the glass and offers beguiling aromas of
smoky minerals, sea salt and wildflower honey.
Rich on the attack with suggestions of ripe
green melons, the Brégeon immediately
tightens mid-palate to reveal an intense acidic
spine and a bracing undercurrent of infused
minerals. Smoky, salty, minerally, the wine
is a natural partner to oysters, freshwater
fish, crustaceans and clams. It’s delicious
now, but will easily reward five to seven years
in your cool cellar. Grab a case before it’s
too late.
ITALY
– WHITE:
2005 Botromagno, Gravina, Puglia, Italy
8.50/91.00
As always, Botromagno’s delicious blend
of 60% Greco di Tufo and 40% Malvasia Bianca
offers a deep straw-gold color and floral, tropical
perfume of pineapple, tangerine and curry powder.
The palate is rich and sumptuous, showing notes
of lemon oil, sweet grapefruit and volcanic
minerals. The Gravina finishes clean, dry and
fresher than ever, balancing crisp lemony acidity
with tropical fruit ripeness and a pungent mineral
streak that remind us of freshly ground garam
masala. Try this unique and distinctive wine
with grilled seafood, shellfish, spicy soups,
mild Indian cuisine, or just enjoy it as a scintillating
apéritif, but drink it now to capture
all of its freshness and exuberance.
Robert Parker – 87 points
PORTUGAL
- WHITE:
2002 Quinta das
Maias, Malvasia-Fina, Dão, Portugal 14.99/160.00
In our quest to bring you the most obscure grapes
and the most arcane of wines, we’ve come
across another tonic for the jaded palate: barrel
fermented Malvasia from the Dão in north-central
Portugal. Somewhat akin to a cross between a
minerally Chenin Blanc, a racy Riesling and
a Viura, Quinta das Maias’ Malvasia-Fina
offers a rich straw-gold hue and heady aromas
of wild honey, sage oil, powdered minerals,
beeswax and pine resin. Intense and penetrating
on the palate, the wine continues the aromatic
themes above while introducing notes of coconut,
menthol and lemon. Rich and viscous on the palate,
the Malvasia-Fina finishes long and waxy with
reprises of honeycomb, pine resin, mentholated
lemon and an undercurrent of smoky mineral.
Enjoy with heartier fare like herbed roast chicken,
braised pork, duck and rabbit, or with aromatic
vegetarian fare featuring bay leaf and thyme.
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| We've
Moved!
2222 NW Quimby Ave.
Portland, OR 97210
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Events
& Tastings:
Friday Tastings
Saturday
Tastings
Special Events:
Featured
Wines:
Sampler
Cases
Christoffel-Prüm
German Riesling
2005
Languedoc Reds
Reds
2004 Woodward
Canyon "Artists Series" No. 13
2005
Belle Vallée Cellars, Pinot Noir
2004
Liberty School, Cabernet Sauvignon
2003
Chateau Bellevue la Forêt
2005
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgueil
2005
Perrin & Fils, Vacqueyras, Les Christins
2005
Camplazens, Syrah
2004 Li Veli,
Passamante Negroamaro
2001 Trinchero,
Barbera d’Asti Superiore
Whites
2005
Belle Pente, Pinot Gris
2006
Cameroni della Colline Rosse, Pinot Bianco
2006
Colombelle, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne
2005
Roland Lavantureux, Petit Chablis
2005
André-Michel Brégeon, Muscadet
2005
Botromagno, Gravina
2002
Quinta das Maias, Malvasia-Fina
Friday Tastings
5:30-7:30, fee April
6 Does Alsatian Wine get any better?
The brilliant offerings of Domaine Weinbach.
April 20 Thought
you knew Greek wines? Think again!
May 4
Join us for an extravaganza tasting of Sake.
Bring some Sushi!
Saturday
Tastings
from noon, no fee April
7 Ewald Moseler from Mitchell wines
will pour our great Riesling Sampler. Plus:
Dom. de la Chanteleuserie Bourgueil Cuvée
Alouettes and Roland Lavantureux Petit Chablis.
April 14 The
L&E staff will pour Colombelle Vin de Pays
des Côtes de Gascogne, Andre Brégeon
Muscadet, Quinta das Maias Malvasia-Fina, and
our terrific Languedoc Sampler.
April 21 A
tasting of superb European wines. Table One:
Italy- Botromagno Gravina, Trinchero Barbera
d’Asti Superiore, and Li Veli Passamante
Negroamaro. Table Two: France – Ch. Bellevue
la Forêt Côtes du Frontonnais, Camplazens
Syrah Vin de Pays d’Oc, and Perrin &
Fils Vacqueyras Les Christins.
April 28 American
Beauties: Cameroni della Colline Rosse (Cameron
Winery) Pinot Bianco, Belle Vallée Cellars
Pinot Noir, Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon,
and Woodward Canyon Artists Cabernet.
Save
the Dates
Weds. May 9
- Meet Marc Perrin from Château de Beaucastel.
$10.00 glass fee. Details to follow.
Tues. May 22,
5-7 p.m. - Meet the effervescent, delightful
and urbane Monsieur Hubert Trimbach of Maison
Trimbach and taste some of the finest wines
of Alsace, France. $10.00 glass fee.
Special
Events RIEDEL
GLASSWARE TASTING: “The Generation Tasting”
- Tuesday, April 17, 6:15 p.m.
Please join us for an exciting
tasting event at L&E. At this unique event
we will host Georg Riedel, who will discuss
the selection of Riedel glassware for the ultimate
in wine enjoyment. In addition, your fee for
the tasting includes a three-glass set of Riedel
glassware.
Seats for this event are
limited. The fee is $50.00, which includes a
three glass set of Riedel glassware.
ANTINORI
DINNER AND WINE TASTING at Bastas Trattoria
- Monday, April 23, 6:30 p.m.
Please join us at Bastas
Trattoria for an exciting evening of Tuscan
wines from the venerable Antinori estate. For
twenty-six generations this family has been
at the forefront of Tuscan winemaking. The event
will feature Aldo Rafanelli, the sole U.S. representative
for Antinori wines.
The fee for this event is $75.00 per person,
inclusive. Advance payment is required.
Austrian
Wine Tasting: 2005 F.X. PICHLER - Tuesday, April
24, 6:30 p.m.
Let’s make this
simple: here is your opportunity to taste the
line-up of one of the world’s greatest
wine estates, F.X. Pichler. Pichler hails from
Austria’s Wachau region and produces some
of the world’s most scintillating dry
white wines made from Riesling and Grüner
Veltliner. Come and see what the wine geeks
at L&E are drooling over.
Seating is very limited. Prior payment will
confirm your reservation. $65.00 per person.
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