APRIL 2010 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2008 Hamacher Wines, H Series Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 17.99/192.50
Lavished with the same care as his $45 marquee label, Eric Hamacher’s H Series wines are bottled younger and crafted to be immediately approachable. Hamacher H Series Pinot Noir is a knockout from the moment it’s poured. A brilliant pale ruby color in the glass, the wine’s aromas soar with notes of loganberries, cinnamon and smoke. Showing the gorgeous balance that is becoming the hallmark of Oregon’s 2008 Pinot vintage, the H Series Pinot follows its complex nose with a crisp, crunchy palate of sappy raspberries, tart cranberries and a lovely undercurrent of fine French oak. Long and elegant on the finish, hints of Bing cherries, violets and brown spices complete this delicious and affordable Oregon Pinot. Enjoy now and over the coming three years with roast chicken, burgers, broiled salmon, and grilled summer vegetables.

FRANCE – RED

2006 Domaine Faillenc, Sainte Marie, Corbières, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 15.99/171.00
The Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie lies at the site of an ancient Roman winery. The domaine’s vineyards on the rocky foothills of Mont Alaric suffer both an extremely arid climate and vicious winds from the northwest and from the Mediterranean. These factors, combined with the estate’s parched, rocky limestone landscape, naturally restrict yields and thus give Faillenc Sainte Marie’s wines their inimitable depth and character. The domaine’s flagship wine is this Corbières rouge, a deep, lusty blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault which explodes from the glass with onyx color and garrigue-driven aromas of wild cherries, sage, bay leaf and juniper berries. Earthy, tarry flavors greet the palate and segue to a bright boysenberry fruit core. Firm tannins and notes of wild game, tar, black pepper, saddle leather and herbs carry the wine to its long, funky, utterly distinctive finish. This wine is outrageous! Fans of the French “funk” will revel in this wine. Lovers of the finest Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Papes will find the 2006 Faillenc Sainte Marie rouge an excellent go-to wine that will help them keep their hands off their great 2007s while they age properly. This hearty, soul-satisfying rouge can be enjoyed now and over the coming decade with rosemary-scented lamb, ratatouille, sausages and hard cheeses.

2008 Famille Iché, Les Hérétiques, Vin de Pays de l’Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 9.50/101.50
Year after year Iché’s Les Hérétiques is our premier candidate for best bistro or party red, especially at its amazingly affordable price point. A blend of old-vine Carignan and Syrah grown outside the boundaries of the great Minervois appellation, Iché’s Les Hérétiques sports a bold plum-garnet color and packs a serious nose of plums, baker’s chocolate, leather and herbal garrigue. The wine’s palate is chock full of sappy boysenberry and red plum fruit accented by notes of tar, leather, juniper and a hint of that fantastic French “funk.” Firm, with food-friendly acidity and fine buffered tannins, this is among the most joyous wines on the shelf and a steal for its modest tariff. Make it your everyday red wine and serve with burgers, grilled lamb, casseroles, pizza, and just about anything outside the green vegetable and seafood spectra.

ITALY – RED

2007 Primosic, Refosco IGT, Venezia-Giulia, Italy 12.50/133.50
We’ve long been fans and ardent supporters of Primosic’s superb and affordable Pinot Grigio and Ribolla Gialla. Boy, were we delighted when we got to sink our teeth into Primosic’s superb Refosco! A dark-skinned grape, Refosco is native to northeastern Italy and neighboring Slovenia and Croatia. With gentle vinification, the varietal’s naturally tannic profile can be tamed to reveal a wine of character, food-friendliness and just a touch of wild gaminess that still allows the Refosco to assert its uniqueness. Deep black-ruby in the glass, Primosic’s Refosco announces itself with one swirl, revealing aromas of cinnamon, game, huckleberries and leather. The wine stains the palate with delicious black cherry fruit accented by notes of star anise, cured meat, tar and earthy mushrooms. Long and clean on the finish, the wine adds hints of menthol, tar and a hint of good ol’ funk – the kind we like! This is a delicious and affordable red that will wow fans of Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre, Syrah and other hearty noble red grapes. With its earthy profile, we suggest pairing this beauty with anything featuring wild mushrooms. It will also work wonders with everyday fare like burgers, hearty pork recipes and eggplant casseroles.

2007 Lucchetti, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, Marches, Italy 11.99/128.00
With its opulent aromas and its appetizingly bitter finish, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba has become a favorite of the staff and clients alike. Lacrima is the name of an ancient aromatic red varietal from the Marches region of central Italy. Lacrima is the Italian word for tears and is believed to have originated from the varietal’s propensity to burst easily and thus “shed tears.” New to our palates, Lucchetti’s Lacrima sports an opaque black-plum robe and outrageous aromas of cured meat, wood smoke, pink rose petals, cloves and potpourri. Pure and brisk on the palate, the wine’s wildly aromatic profile settles down to reveal food-friendly suggestions of boysenberries, muskmelon, blood orange peel, tar and Earl Grey tea. A lovely bitter almond note joins fine framing tannins on the Lucchetti’s long, appetizing finish. This is a wine that will wow as an aperitif, but is genuinely at its best at the table with braised meats, BBQ ribs, grilled eggplant, salumi and fine bitter chocolate. Enjoy young to capture the wine’s fresh berry fruit and exotic aromatics.

2007 Raína, Montefalco Rosso, Umbria, Italy 16.99/181.50
In 2002, Francesco Mariani and his partner Andrea Mattioli acquired an old 40-acre farm in Montefalco, Umbria’s premier wine-growing region. The duo’s 2007 Raína Montefalco Rosso, a terrific fusion of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino, casts a deep black-plum robe and heady aromas of plums, blackberries and tarry earth. The wine’s dominant Sangiovese component gives the wine its brilliant blackberry core of fruit accented by undercurrents of leather and tar. The Merlot rounds out the wine with supple plum notes, a velvety texture, and hints of fine milk chocolate. Umbria’s indigenous Sagrantino takes the wine to its great heights, giving the Montefalco Rosso its firm tannic structure and complex suggestions of balsam, tar and mushrooms. A kiss of French oak wraps up this lovely central Italian rosso and makes it a perfect partner to grilled porterhouse steak, braised pork, grilled eggplant and wild game birds. This is one blockbuster red wine that offers a big bang for your recessionary buck.

2008 Produttori del Barbaresco, Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 17.99/192.50
The venerable Produttori del Barbaresco’s Langhe Nebbiolo is the cooperative’s second label, a wine made from vineyards within the esteemed Barbaresco zone that give more approachable and less structured fruit. The Produttori chooses to declassify this wine in order to sell it younger and to achieve as high a quality standard as possible for its classified Barbarescos. The Produttori’s ’08 Langhe Nebbiolo opens with a lovely crimson-garnet robe and soaring aromas of ripe cherries, cloves, rose petals and chocolate. Bright and inviting in the mouth, the ’08 Langhe Nebbiolo offers up-front authentic Nebbiolo character with intense cherry fruit accented by hints of tar, cinnamon, perfumed earth and fragrant flowers. The wine finishes clean and fresh, sporting Barbaresco clay and limestone terroir alongside fine, firm Nebbiolo tannins. This wine is a steal and a superb choice for dishes like vegetarian lasagna, grilled chicken breasts, burgers, pastas and pizza. Enjoy now and over the next three years.

2007 Casalone, Barbera del Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy 11.99/128.00
Alongside Asti and Alba, Monferrato is one of the great sub-regions for the workhorse Barbera grape. Casalone has crafted an absolutely delicious and ready-to-drink interpretation of Barbera that presents this versatile, food-friendly grape at an everyday price. Deep black-plum in color, Casalone’s Barbera opens with heady aromas of plums, cherries and spice. Velvety on the attack, the wine tightens mid-palate to reveal brisk acidity, fine tannins and complex notes of dried plums, untanned leather and semisweet chocolate. Fresh and bristling with energy, this is dynamite Barbera for the money and a natural partner to all things Piemontese. It will also pair nicely with everyday fare like burger, pizza, pastas, casseroles and grilled flank steak. Enjoy now and over the coming two years to capture all the wine’s exuberant fruit.

SPAIN - RED

1999 Anciano, Tempranillo, Gran Reserva, Valdepeñas, Spain 10.99/117.50
The name Valdepeñas literally means “valley of rocks.” Here in south-central Spain the finest red wines are made from Tempranillo – known locally as Cencibel – and afforded the same patient care as those from the Rioja. Aged for ten years in a combination of French and American oak barrels, Anciano’s Gran Reserva opens with an opaque black-ruby color and smoky aromas of Bing cherries, vanilla, earth and cigar tobacco. Lush and round in the mouth, thanks to the Tempranillo’s low-tannin profile and the wine’s extended ageing program, Anciano’s Gran Reserva caresses the palate with soft, velvety cherry fruit accented by hints of cedar, spices, tobacco and vanilla bean. The wine finishes long and complex, with rich cherry fruit highlighted by hints of sarsaparilla, tobacco and spicy vanilla. A steal for its price, this is gorgeous Tempranillo that is inspired by the great wines of the Rioja, yet finds its unique voice in the warm, arid limestone and clay soils of the Valdepeñas. Enjoy now and over the next decade with all things beef and lamb, as well as with grilled squashes and milder firm and semi-firm cheeses.

2001 Montecillo, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 19.99/213.50
The Bodegas Montecillo, one of Rioja’s oldest and most venerable estates, has captured the glory of the great 2001 harvest in its rare Gran Reserva. Rioja Gran Reservas must be aged for at least two years in oak and another three years in bottle. Montecillo’s 100% Tempranillo Gran Reserva casts a deep ruby core gradating to a crimson rim. The Gran Reserva sports aromas of ripe cherries, leather, cloves and vanilla. The wine then caresses the palate with transparent, medium-bodied cherry and cassis fruit, bright acidity, cedar and a complex hint of earthiness. Long on the finish, the Montecillo adds notes of black raspberries, licorice, smoky vanilla bean and cigar tobacco, and leaves a lush, complex impression rare in such an affordable Gran Reserva. Delicious now, but possessing the stuffing for at least another decade of further development, we suggest pairing this old-school Rioja Gran Reserva with tapas, tomato and potato casseroles, aged Manchego, and good ol’ burgers hot off the grill.

WHITE WINES

OREGON - WHITE

2008 Apolloni, Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley, Oregon 13.50/144.50
With deep respect for his Italian heritage, Alfredo Apolloni crafts gorgeous wines in a distinctly Italian style. His 2008 Pinot Blanc reminds us of a fine Pinot Bianco from the Trentino-Alto Adige, yet with a smoky Willamette Valley mineral undercurrent that gives it a truly unique voice. Pale gold in the glass with lovely green glints, Apolloni’s 2008 Pinot Blanc offers pure honeydew melon fruit on the nose complemented by hints of limes, gardenia blossoms and meyer lemon. Crisp and zesty on the fore-palate, the wine fleshes out mid-palate to reveal a lovely pear, melon and citrus fruit core alongside juicy acidity and tremendous freshness. Long and broad on the finish, the wine finishes clean, with honeysuckle notes and further suggestions of crunchy pear fruit. An exemplary Oregon Pinot Blanc. Pair this beauty now and over the coming year with light white-fleshed fish dishes, calamari, fresh cheeses and grilled summer squashes.

FRANCE - WHITE

2008 Domaine Labbé, Abymes, Savoie, France 10.99/117.50
Most of the crisp, refreshing wines from the Alpine Savoie region in eastern France are consumed by locals and vacationing skiers, hence precious little of it makes it to our shores. Savoie’s Abymes AOC is named for the broken stones (abimes) that fall from the Alps during avalanches and, thus, mark its terroir. The only permitted grape in Abymes is the Jacquère, a crisp, light-bodied grape that marries well with light, freshwater fish dishes. Labbé’s 2008 is an unusually broad, full-bodied Abymes: crisp, refreshing and bursting with lemony fruit, yet rich in texture and more muscular than its 11% alcohol might suggest. Bright lemon-gold color in the glass, Labbé’s ’08 Abymes offers aromas of smoke, grapefruit and crunchy fennel. The wine’s bracing acidity plays on the palate with bright citrus and pear fruits alongside hints of anise, tarragon and minerals. Crisp, delicious and oh-so-quaffable, Labbé’s Abymes shows superb intensity and persistence. Notes of lemon, limestone and juicy acidity mark the wine’s inviting finish. We suggest pairing this refreshing rarity with oysters, scallops and white-fleshed fish dishes and to enjoy it young in order to capture all the Abymes’ crisp acidity and crunchy minerality.

2009 Chateau Saint-Florin, Sauvignon-Sémillon, Bordeaux, France 9.50/101.50
This wine is simply delicious! There’s a lot of talk about the greatness of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage. If this lovely Bordeaux blanc from Saint-Florin is any harbinger, then the hoopla is well justified. A seamless and sprightly blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, the Saint-Florin bursts with grassy Sauvignon aromas highlighted by hints of key lime, kiwi and stony minerals. Brisk and inviting from the first sip, the Saint-Florin rises above its humble appellation, as the Sémillon component adds complexity, weight and a waxy texture to the Sauvignon’s musky melon and citrus notes. Flinty minerality flows through the wine from start to finish. Bordeaux blanc is one of the most delicious and underrated categories in white wine. To discover why it’s so delicious and worthy of your hard-earned dollar, this bottle will do all the necessary talking. Enjoy now and over the next year or two with oysters on the half-shell, grilled and poached freshwater fish preparations, grilled and sautéed fresh vegetables, and light poultry recipes.

2007 Château Gaudrelle, Vouvray Sec, Loire Valley, France 14.99/160.00
Situated on the south side of the Loire River, the 14-hectare Château Gaudrelle estate family overlooks the tranquil and picturesque town of Vouvray. The estate, in production since at least the 1500s, is now in the careful hands of Alexandre Monmousseau, who believes in old vines, neutral oak, native yeasts and all the good things that help the noble Chenin Blanc rise to its greatest heights. A lovely lemon-gold in the bowl, Gaudrelle’s Vouvray sec casts pure-as-an-Alpine-meadow scents of honeysuckle flowers, lime blossom and Vouvray’s inimitable tuffeau terroir. Clean, crisp, yet broad on the palate, notes of grapefruit, honey, butter and flinty minerals emerge alongside crisp Anjou pear and baked apple fruit. Long on the finish, with Vouvray’s smoky minerals coming to the fore, the wine leaves a silky impression and begs you to take another sip. Lovely now, the Gaudrelle sec can age and improve for another decade. Pair with freshwater fish dishes in a beurre blanc sauce, light poultry, scallops and mild blue cheeses. It will also pair well with sashimi and not-too-spicy Asian cuisines.

ITALY - WHITE

2008 Primosic, Pinot Grigio, Friuli-Isonzo, Italy 10.50/112.50
Pinot Grigio has a long and storied history in Friuli’s Isonzo subregion near the Slovenian border. Primosic has taken all of Pinot Gris’ juicy, smoky fruit and fashioned a classic wine of depth, character and length. Pale straw in color with peach accents, Primosic’s Pinot Grigio opens with restrained notes of apricot, figs and smoke. On the palate the wine shows superb richness with elegant melon, pear and citrus fruit notes reined in by bracing acidity, hints of bay leaf, and an undercurrent of dissolved minerals. Smoky and long on the finish with appetizing bitter almond note, Primosic’s Pinot Grigio offers far more depth and character that its modest price tag indicates. This is a stellar value in Italian Pinot Grigio and one that compares well against many higher priced examples. Enjoy now and over the coming two years with salmon, halibut, chicken, brook trout and grilled summer vegetables.

SPAIN – WHITE

2008 Benaza, Godello, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain 12.99/139.00
Galicia, in Spain’s northwestern corner, is best known for its superb wines made from the Albariño grape. Now the region’s other great white grape, Godello, is being discovered. We’re pleased to offer this terrific, well-priced, textbook example of the varietal from Benaza. A brilliant lime-gold color in the glass, Benaza’s Godello presents aromas of lime zest, Bosc pears, honeysuckle blossom and chamomile. Full-bodied on the attack, the Benaza Godello shows tremendous harmony by deftly balancing its juicy pear fruit against briny minerality, brisk acidity and fresh floral notes. Hints of white grapefruit and fresh fennel transition the wine to its long, energetic finish. This is a brilliant, utterly delicious wine and a testament to Spain’s continued revitalization of its white wine heritage. Enjoy now and over the coming two years with shellfish, cod, snapper, halibut, monkfish and green bean casseroles.

ROSE WINE

2009 Domaine Sorin, Côtes de Provence, Rosé, Terra Amata, Provence, France 10.50/112.50
Eschewing chemical fertilizers and pesticides, the Domaine Sorin fashions wines filled with the inimitable sun-drenched character of Provence. Sorin’s splendid rosé has been a regular fixture on our shelves for many years and we’re again delighted to feature it as our first rosé newsletter selection of the 2009 vintage. Based on a roll call of Provence’s finest varietals, Sorin’s 2009 rosé is a lip-smacking blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Rolle and Orgi. A deep salmon color with copper highlights, the Sorin rosé casts aromas of wet stones, juicy watermelon, dried lavender and Rainier cherries. Crisp on the attack, the wine fleshes out mid-palate to reveal notes of blood oranges, white raspberries, fennel, light tannins and limestone minerality. Extremely well balanced and super-refreshing, the Sorin rosé finishes long, crisp and oh so food friendly. Pair now and over the next year with classic Provençal recipes like ratatouille, grilled whole fish stuffed with fennel and herbs, summer squashes, lamb sausages and light seafood pastas. A wonderful introduction to what is shaping up to be a great 2009 rosé season!

WEB-EXTRA: Read the review online

2004 Dr. Cosimo Taurino, Salice Salentino Riserva, Puglia, Italy 13.99/149.50

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463

HOURS: Mon.-Sat.,
10a.m -6p.m.

THIS MONTH'S WINES

RED WINES:
2008 Hamacher Wines H Series Pinot Noir
2006 Dom. Faillenc Ste. Marie
2008 Iché Les Hérétiques
2007 Primosic Refosco IGT
2007 Raína Montefalco Rosso
2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo
2007 Casalone Barbera del Monferrato
2007 Lucchetti Lacrima di Morro d’Alba
1999 Anciano Tempranillo Gran Reserva
2001 Montecillo Gran Reserva Rioja

WHITE WINES:
2008 Apolloni Pinot Blanc 2008 Dom. Labbé Abymes
2009 Ch. Ste.-Florin Sauvignon-Sémillon
2007 Ch. Gaudrelle Vouvray Sec
2008 Primosic Pinot Grigio
2008 Benaza Godello

ROSE WINE:
2009 Dom. Sorin Côtes de Provence Rosé

WEB EXTRA WINE:
2006 Dr. Cosimo Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

April 2 Great wines from northeast Italy: Radikon, Jermann, Bastianich, and plenty more.

April 16 The 2005 Produttori Single Cru Barbarescos have arrived.

May 7 The superlative wines from Clarendon Hills Winery in Australia. Bring a toothbrush!

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

April 3 From Italy: Primosic Pinot Grigio, Lucchetti Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, Primosic Refosco, Raína Montefalco Rosso, Casalone Barbera del Monferrato, and Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo.

April 10 From France: Dom. Labbé Abymes Savoie, Ch. Saint-Florin Bordeaux Blanc, Ch. Gaudrelle Vouvray Sec, Les Hérétiques Vin de Pays de l’Herault, and Dom. Faillenc Sainte Marie.

April 17 From Spain: Benaza Godello, Anciano Tempranillo Gran Reserva, Montecillo Gran Reserva Rioja. Plus: Dom. Sorin Côtes de Provence Rosé.

April 24 Oregon Wine Tasting: A tasting of terrific wines from Eric Hamacher, plus great selections from Apolloni Winery.