MAY 2008 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2006 Cameron Winery, Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon 18.99/203.00
John Paul’s ever delicious Dundee Hills (formerly Willamette Valley) cuvée bottling of Pinot Noir has just been released. For the 2006 edition, the majority of the blend comes from the Abbey Ridge, Clos Electrique and Gehrts vineyards, all sources of Cameron’s finest single-vineyard bottlings. Fruit of this provenance would normally go into some producer’s reserve cuvée, but as always John keeps his quality high and his prices reasonable. From the wine’s deep purple-ruby robe to its intense plum and Bing cherry nose, the superbly sourced fruit shines through. On the palate, the ’06 Dundee Hills Pinot shows plum and Marion berry fruit accented by a distinctive earthy streak, sweet tannins and a delicate kiss of oak. Its finish is long, snappy and reminiscent of the finest traditionally-styled Willamette Valley Pinots. Enjoy this lovely Pinot over the next few years with grilled salmon, dishes featuring morel mushrooms, or simply roasted chicken.

2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 41.99/448.50
Véronique Drouhin calls the 2006 DDO Pinot “very easy to love.” We can find no more perfect words to describe this lovely new release from one of our favorite local wineries. Nowhere to be found is the charming youthful disjointedness (which, of course, always resolves harmoniously with cellaring) so often found in young DDO Pinots. From its gorgeous crimson color to its spicy loganberry fruit, this one is ready to go right out of the chute. Soft, lush and silky on the attack, the wine shifts mid-palate to reveal a lovely soil streak complemented by hints of dried bitter-orange peel, spicy cloves, caramel oak and fine, sneaky tannins. Crisp and soil-driven on its long finish, the ’06 DDO Pinot delicately balances its velvety fruit expression with its seamless structure. DDO fans are sure to delight in this charming new release that is both delicious now and able to age gracefully for another five to eight years.

FRANCE – RED

2006 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie, Beaujolais, France 17.99/192.50
One of our favorite Beaujolais producers, the Coudert family at Clos de la Roilette has fashioned another unqualified success with its 2006 Fleurie. The Roilette estate sits on Fleurie’s border with the Moulin-a-Vent cru, and yields wines that seem to marry Fleurie’s delicacy and lacy texture with Moulin-a-Vent’s sturdiness, structure and ageability. The 2006 Roilette begins with deep garnet color imbued with a glint of purple. Aromas of cassis, cinnamon and stony terroir leap from the glass. Roilette’s 2006 Fleurie is all about elegance and precision, its earthy terroir transparent beneath a juicy, vibrant kernel of red berry fruit. Fine, ripe tannins and firm acidity emerge on the back-palate, complemented by notes of cinnamon, cloves, dissolved minerals, smoke and game. This is superb, reference-standard cru Beaujolais that offers crunchy fruit, hair-raising energy and a pronounced stony goût de terroir for a very modest price. Drink a few bottles now with roasted chicken, and lay a larger number in your cool cellar for five to ten years for its earthy, Burgundian character to emerge.

2005 Domaine de la Seigneurie, Saumur-Champigny, Loire Valley, France 13.50/144.50
To the west of Chinon and Bourgueil, the Saumur-Champigny appellation first gained renown in the 1970s as the source of delicious, food-friendly carafe wines in the bars and bistros of Paris. Since then two general styles of Saumur-Champigny have emerged: those that are meant for early, easy-going consumption, and those from the finest vineyards that have proven to age magnificently for decades. Blurring this general dichotomy is this lovely 2005 from the Domaine de la Seigneurie. The 2005 combines the classic, violet-scented perfumed soil expression (which only the finest Cabernet Francs from the Loire can give) with an easygoing structure that makes it delicious and approachable now. Opaque black-purple in the glass, the Seigneurie Saumur-Champigny opens with beautiful leather, chalk and violet aromas. Velvety and lush on the attack, the Seigneurie offers rich bitter chocolate, cassis and plum notes followed by crisp food-friendly acidity and subtle tannins. Distinctive and undeniably terroir-driven, the wine finishes clean and juicy, setting your palate up perfectly for another bite of roast chicken, grilled strip steaks, braised rabbit, game birds, firm chèvres or hearty tomato, potato or zucchini-based casseroles. Gorgeous wine!

2000 Domaine d’Aupilhac, Montpeyroux, Côteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 19.99/213.50
reg. 24.99
At the Domaine d’Aupilhac, vignerone Sylvain Fadat holds the torch for old-school, authentic, herb-scented southern French wine. With its steep hillsides and ancient stone terraces, Montpeyroux is one of the true grands crus of the Côteaux du Languedoc. Domaine d’Aupilhac’s 2000 vintage is just now entering its prime drinking window. Opaque black-ruby in the glass, this Syrah- and Mourvèdre-based wonder fuses the Languedoc’s garrigue-driven bouquet with mature scents of game, olives and Nebbiolo-like notes of tar and dried rose petals. Chewy and nobly rustic, the Montpeyroux adds notes of blueberries, black plums, Provençal cherries and oil-cured black olives on its palate. Still firmly tannic, the d’Aupilhac rouge finishes long and endlessly fascinating with added notes of cocoa, black truffle, sour cherries and dusty, parched stony terroir. Fans of Verset Cornas, old Tempier Bandols and Vallana Spannas will delight in this wine. Those of you who want to experience the wilds of southern France, grab your berets and buy a bottle (or a case) of this uncompromising wonder. Enjoy now or over the next decade with grilled lamb, eggplant casseroles and other rustic southern French dishes featuring plenty of garlic, rosemary and anchovies. Very limited.

ITALY – RED

2006 Odino Vaona, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, Italy 11.99/128.00
Welcome back, Vaona! We featured the 2005 vintage of this delicious, authentic and affordable Valpolicella and sold every last bottle. We’re delighted to present Vaona’s splendid 2006 vintage. With its gorgeous garnet color, crunchy red fruits and perfumed soil expression, the 2006 picks up exactly where the 2005 left off. A classic Valpolicella blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara, Vaona’s 2006 bursts with sappy red fruit aromas of strawberries, cherries and raspberries infused with a gorgeous limestone perfume. On the palate, the ’06 Vaona offers a saturated red fruit core accented by hints of black tea, leather and dusty minerality. It finishes fresh, sappy and simply delicious. With so many producers trying to make their Valpolicellas resemble Super Tuscans, it’s a joy to taste an example as honest and pure as this. Drink now or over the coming two years with just about anything that isn’t too spicy and doesn’t make its habitat in water.

2004 Marchesi di Barolo, Barbera, Maràia, Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy 8.99/96.00
The Marchesi di Barolo is one of Piedmont’s most prestigious and venerable estates. Best known for its incomparable Barolo from the esteemed Cannubi cru, the estate extends its reputation for greatness across its broad portfolio. Hailing from the Marchesi di Barolo’s finest hillside vineyards is this deeply colored Barbera that offers impeccable balance and depth for its modest price tag. Deep plum purple in the glass, the Marràia opens with scents of plums, blackberries and vanilla. Broad and lush on the palate, the wine marries silky plum and wild cherry fruit with noble, food-friendly acidity and a haunting earthy undercurrent. Long and lingering on its finish, the Marràia adds a framing of well-buffered tannins and a reprise of lip-smacking acidity. Here’s another splendid offering in our Barbera-of-the-Month Club, and a wine that will prove most versatile at the table. Pair it now and over the next three years with everyday fare like pastas, burgers, pizza or save it for your Piemontese first courses such as tajarìn, agnolotti, risotto or a vegetable-based frittata.

2005 Riecine, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 19.99/213.50
The tiny Riecine estate (ree-EH-chee-nay) employs organic growing principles to capture the essence of the Sangiovese grape as expressed in Gaiole in the heart of the Chianti Classico zone. Riecine's black ruby-hued Chianti Classico jumps out of the glass with aromas of leather, sun-warmed cherries and smoky soil. Deep and intense on the palate, notes of birch, menthol, cocoa, plums and black currants play with a firm, tannic structure and abundant, food-friendly acidity. The wine’s zippy acidity propels its exuberant fruit expression to a long, lip-smacking finish featuring suggestions of cola, wintergreen, cherries and a deep mineral undercurrent. Those of you who relish in the beauty of authentic, ungussied Chianti Classico will find this affordable new release to be a lovely complement to grilled steaks, burgers, pizza, pastas and a host of zucchini-based vegetarian dishes. Enjoy now and over the coming seven years.


SPAIN – RED

2006 Bodegas Castaño, Monastrell, Yecla, Spain 8.99/96.00
Deep in southeastern Spain, the warm, arid Yecla region specializes in the Monastrell grape (also known as Mourvèdre). Yecla’s quality leader, Ramon Castaño Santa, is setting the quality bar for the region by fashioning some of the inkiest, plumiest, best value red wines in the world. Based on fruit from forty to sixty-year-old Monastrell vines, this affordable black plum-colored wonder is packed with ripe blackberry, plum and elderberry fruit. Inside the wine’s core of ripe fruit are complex notes of cinnamon, clove, rosemary, thyme, tar and black olives. Castaño’s Monastrell is one intense, mouth-filling and palate-staining wine, which finishes with plenty of fine, dusty tannins, notes of baker’s cocoa and a lovely suggestion of sarsaparilla. We suggest enjoying this outstanding, distinctive Spanish value now and over the next three to five years with lamb, beef, burgers, potatoes, grilled eggplant and hearty, rib-sticking fare. “This very fresh wine finishes with impressive cling and length. And the price is unreal.” 88 points – Josh Raynolds in Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar.

AUSTRALIA – RED

2007 Tamar Ridge, Pinot Noir, Devil’s Corner, Tasmania, Australia 13.99/149.50
Speak of the devil: it’s back! Last year’s surprise hit returns with a new vintage and an even spicier, sappier fruit expression. A gorgeous deep garnet color in the glass, the Devil’s Corner Pinot opens with bright, high-toned aromas of loganberries, cranberries, cinnamon and star anise. Crisp, refreshing and propelled by a snappy core of red fruit, the wine dances on the palate and emphasizes crispness and freshness over extract and density. The finish reprises the bright Chambolle-like red-fruit notes, and adds a distinctive dusty soil signature that must be unique to its Tasmanian origins. Call it Tasmanian terroir, or call it the best QPR (quality/price ratio) Pinot on the market. Throw this in as a ringer in your next Oregon Pinot or Chambolle-Musigny tasting, and we believe you’ll be pleasantly surprised by its showing. Better yet, buy a case to drink with grilled salmon, roast chicken, duck, grilled summer squashes, burgers and other everyday fare.

WHITE WINES

AUSTRIA – WHITE

2006 Weingut Leth, Grüner Veltliner, Steinagrund Lagenreserve, Wagram-Donauland, Austria 13.99/149.50
The deep loess soils of the Austria’s Wagram region are ideal for the Grüner Veltliner grape. Employing sustainable agriculture and an unbridled passion for Austria’s signature varietal, Franz Leth, Jr. has fashioned a superb, textbook Grüner Veltliner from the great 2006 vintage. Deep green-gold in the glass, Leth’s single-vineyard Steinagrund Grüner Veltliner opens with smoky aromas of lentils, snap peas and kiwi fruit. Brisk, bracing acidity mingles with an intense green fruit impression on the palate and leads to a long, smoky, soil-tinged finish reminiscent of the great Grüners from the Kamptal. Leth insists that his Grüners are structured to age ten or twenty years. We can’t help but concur, but also can’t imagine not enjoying a few bottles over the short term with grilled vegetables, lentil soup, smoky bean stews and rich braised pork preparations.

FRANCE – WHITE

2006 Moulin de Gassac, Blanc, Guilhem, Vin de Pays de l’Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 11.50/123.00
The good folks at Mas de Daumas Gassac have bestowed us with this delicious, organic, comfortably priced wine that smells, tastes and invokes the spirit of Mediterranean France. Based on a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Clairette and Grenache Blanc, the Guilhem blanc begins with a limpid straw-gold color and fresh aromas of lemon oil, melon and flinty minerals. Rich on the attack but immediately countered with lively acidity, the Guilhem blanc offers notes of lemon balm, freshly crushed rosemary and a bristling mineral spine that lifts the wine and carries its freshness to a long herb-and-mineral infused finish. Fresh and bracing, enjoy this now and over the coming two years with oysters, periwinkles, mild sheep’s milk cheeses, and rosemary-scented roast chicken.

2005 Domaine Richou, Anjou Blanc, Chauvigné, Loire Valley, France 14.99/160.00
Here’s the wine of the newsletter for Chenin geeks: we know you’re out there. Brothers Didier and Damien Richou produce this Savennières drink-alike from vineyards in the western Anjou. The region’s volcanic soil minerality runs like lightning bolts through Richou’s Chauvigné and propels its lovely, waxy Chenin fruit to grand cru heights. The purity of fruit and intenseness of minerality play with a firm acidic backbone to make for the Chenin sensation of the season. To top that off, the balance and finesse of the Chauvigné are simply amazing. Enjoy this now as a cellar saver for your Savennières, and pair it with freshwater fish in a beurre blanc sauce, mild poultry preparations and sautéed vegetables. It will also reward up to a decade’s ageing in your cellar. Simply fantastic wine.

2005 Domaines Schlumberger, Pinot Gris, Les Princes Abbés, Alsace, France 15.99/171.00
Les Princes Abbés (the abbot princes) is the great Schlumberger domaine’s line of classic Alsatian varietals. Schlumberger’s 2005 is a textbook example Pinot Gris from its premier region. The wine begins with a deep gold color with glints of pink from the Pinot Gris’ magenta skins. The wine’s nose is deep and intense, casting notes of honeydew melon, smoke, yellow peaches and spicy botrytis. On the palate, the wine is rich and oily, showing nuances of ripe melon, quince paste, pine nuts, candied bitter orange peel and preserved kumquat. The wine’s finish is long and brisk, featuring balancing citrus acidity, smoky botrytis, stony minerality and ripe Mirabelle plums. Enjoyable now, the Princes Abbés Pinot Gris will age beautifully for another three to seven years. Pair with grilled salmon, sturgeon, Alsatian casseroles, charcuterie, pâtés and quiches.

ITALY – WHITE

2007 Filippo Gallino, Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy 14.99/160.00
Once rare and nearly forgotten, Piedmont’s most distinctive white varietal has staged a remarkable comeback and is now getting the attention it justly deserves. In the early 1970s, Fillipo Gallino was one of Arneis’ pioneers in Piedmont’s Roero district. His experience and deftness with this fickle varietal is evident is this brisk, fresh and delicious 2007 bottling. Arneis’ beguiling aromas of creamy gardenia blossoms and sweet almonds are captured beautifully in Gallino’s crisp, zesty 2007. Pale gold with brilliant green glints, Gallino’s Arneis shows taut minerality alongside notes of lemon zest, crunchy honeydew melon and chamomile. Tight and minerally on the attack, the Arneis broadens on the palate with clean, citrus fruit before finishing bright and lively with further notes of fresh white flowers, smoky minerals and hints of sweet almonds. Serve Gallino’s Arneis all by itself or pair it with light fish dishes and pastas with delicate white sauces. As with all Arneis, enjoy this young to capture the wine’s delicacy, crispness and floral aromatics.

2007 Barbi, Orvieto Classico Secco, Umbria, Italy 9.99/107.00
Orvieto, one of Umbria’s most renowned white wines, is at its best when made from fruit grown on volcanic “tuffeau” soil in its Classico zone. From a blend of Procanico, Grechetto, Verdello, Drupeggio and Malvasia comes this elegant, dry and aromatic Umbrian bianco. A lovely pale straw color in the glass, the Barbi Orvieto opens with aromas of lime zest, crushed stones and fresh sweet basil. Brisk and zippy on the palate, the wine conveys notes of freshly squeezed lemon juice, Bartlett pears, white tea and meadow flowers. On the finish, the Barbi Orvieto is long, dry and persistent, adding notes of menthol, bitter almond skin and smoky minerals. Try this textbook Orvieto now for all its youthful charm with shellfish, freshwater fish dishes, light poultry preparations and light vegetarian fare.

2007 Cantina Valpantena, Torre del Falasco, Bianco di Custoza, Veneto, Italy 10.99/117.50
The Torre del Falasco Bianco di Custoza from the Cantina Valpantena is a delicious, vibrant blend based on the noble Garganega mixed with dollops of Tocai, Cortese and Chardonnay. The result is a one of the most gulpable, delicious $11 bottles of wine one can imagine. Lovely straw-gold in the glass, the Bianco di Custoza smells like a fine, mineral-driven Soave and offers the same delicacy and refreshment, but at a far lower price. In fact, it’s often whispered that the winemakers of Bianco di Custoza feel they have something to prove, so they go the extra mile to make wines that are tastier and more affordable than those of their more famous neighbors. One can analyze this wine, but the proof is in the glass. Just chill this down to around 45º-50º – not too cold – and kick back with a glass on a warm evening. Alternately enjoy with freshwater fish dishes, halibut, asparagus frittatas, grilled summer squashes and semi-firm cheeses.

NEW ZEALAND – WHITE

2006 Goldwater, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 15.99/171.00
New Zealand’s Marlborough region is fast becoming the reference point for New World Sauvignon Blanc. Among its finest producers is Goldwater, who for the past fifteen years has been crafting some of Marlborough’s most balanced and affordable renditions. Goldwater’s ’06 offering opens with a green-gold color and gorgeous aromas of kiwi, mango, white pepper and freshly cut grass. Clean, zippy and marvelously balanced on the palate, the Goldwater adds notes of gooseberries, pineapple and honeydew melon. Brisk acidity and a refreshing lack of oak influence make the Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc a superb choice in warm weather white wines. Pair with freshwater fish, shellfish, delicately prepared vegetables, poultry, even pork.

SOUTH AFRICA – WHITE

2007 Mulderbosch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Stellenbosch, South Africa 11.50/123.00
Here it is: our first rosé newsletter selection for the 2007 vintage. It’s no secret that the Mulderbosch estate is blazing the trail for quality South African wines, and this rosé, composed of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a dash of Cabernet Franc, is simply dazzling. A pale salmon color in the glass, Mulderbosch’s ’07 rosé casts smoky soil and herb scents from the glass. Round and lush in the mouth, the rosé counters its lovely fruit expression with complex notes of dried herbs, smoky shale terroir and spine-tingling acidity. Fresh, lively and bursting with strawberry fruit and an undercurrent of minerally terroir, this is one smokin’ rosé that dazzled us with its distinctiveness and its deliciousness. Enjoy now and through the warm weather with grilled salmon, ahi tuna, sushi, omelettes and frittatas, and other light fare.

WEB-ONLY SPECIALS: Complete reviews available online at www.linerandelsen.com

• 2006 J. Vidal-Fleury, Côtes-du-Rhône, Blanc, Rhône Valley, France ... 10.50/112.50
• 2004 Beringer, Private Reserve, Napa, Chardonnay ... 29.99/320.00 reg. 32.00

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
(off 22nd Ave.)
Portland, OR
800-903-9463 * 503-241-9463

Mon.-Sat. 10-6; closed Sundays

RED WINES

2006 Cameron Winery Pinot Noir

2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir

2006 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Beaujolais

2005 Domaine de la Seigneurie Saumur-Champigny

2000 Domaine d’Aupilhac Montpeyroux Côteaux du Languedoc

2006 Odino Vaona Valpolicella Classico

2004 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera Maràia

2005 Riecine Chianti Classico

2006 Bodegas Castaño Monastrell

2007 Tamar Ridge Pinot Noir Devil’s Corner

WHITE WINES

2006 Weingut Leth Grüner Veltliner Steinagrund Lagenreserve

2006 Moulin de Gassac Blanc Guilhem

2005 Domaine Richou Anjou Blanc

2005 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Les Princes Abbés

2007 Filippo Gallino Roero Arneis

2007 Barbi Orvieto Classico Secco

2007 Cantina Valpantena Torre del Falasco Bianco di Custoza

2006 Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc

2007 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé

WEB-ONLY SPECIALS

2006 J. Vidal-Fleury Côtes-du-Rhôn, Blanc

2004 Beringer Private Reserve Napa Chardonnay

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

May 2 Great Burgundies from Meursault

May 16 Loire Valley Reds: Superb Pinot Noirs and Cabernet Francs

June 6 Taste the splendid wines of Greece

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

May 3 It’s Pinot Day! Dom. Schlumberger Pinot Gris Les Princes Abbés, Tamar Ridge Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir, Cameron Winery Pinot Noir, and Dom. Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir.

May 10 Thom Sichta from Henry Wine Group will pour Domaine Richou Anjou Blanc, Mulderbosch, Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Bodegas Castaño Monastrell, and other superb selections.

May 17 From Italy: Barbi Orvieto Classico Secco, Cantina Valpantena Torre del Falasco Bianco, Filippo Gallino Roero Arneis, Odino Vaona Valpolicella Classico, Marchesi di Barolo Barbera, and Riecine Chianti Classico.

May 24 From France: Moulin de Gassac Blanc, Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Beaujolais, Dom. de la Seigneurie Saumur-Champigny, and Dom. d’Aupilhac Montpeyroux.

May 31 Summer Whites: At table one: Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc and Weingut Leth Grüner Veltliner Steinagrund Lagenreserve. At table two: Crisp and delicious Rosés.