Newsletter - June 2007

REDS

OREGON – RED:

2006 O'Reilly's, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 13.50/144.50
Each year, the release of David O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir causes a bit of a sensation thanks to its always delicious fruit and its sensible price. Vintage 2006 continues O’Reilly’s string of successes, offering a Pinot that shows a deep ruby robe and heady aromas of loganberries, smoke, tar and caramel. In the mouth, suggestions of wild raspberries, strawberries, vanilla, cherries and cola give a fresh, youthful, saturated approach and an early glimpse of the intense, palate-staining nature of 2006 Oregon Pinots. Lush on the entry and mid-palate, fine tannins emerge as the wine transitions from its back-palate to its finish, accompanied by barrel notes of smoke, vanilla and toffee. At this price, Oregon Pinot Noir just doesn’t get any better than this. Enjoy now and over the coming two years with grilled salmon, burgers, roast chicken, sausages and other everyday fare.

2005 Carter Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Hillblock, Willamette Valley, Oregon 35.99/385.00
The Carter Vineyard, made famous by Ken Wright, is one of the Eola Hills’ finest and most revered sources of Pinot Noir. Following on the footsteps of Carter’s great 2004 “Hillblock,” the winery’s 2005 offering ratchets up the intensity. Purple-ruby in color, the Hillblock Pinot offers a violet, blackberry and pepper bouquet from the moment it hits the glass. The wine’s intense fruit saturates the palate with suggestion of sweet black raspberries, basaltic minerality and snappy cranberries. On the finish, sweet barrel notes of caramelized sugar and vanilla bean emerge along with a reprise of the wine’s volcanic soil notes. Oregon winemaking legend Ken Wright fashioned this wine with fruit from the Carter Vineyard’s oldest Pommard-clone vines. The earthiness of the Pommard clone and Ken’s Midas touch make this a clear winner in top-shelf Oregon Pinot. Enjoy now and over the coming seven years with roast duck, rabbit, pork and potatoes au gratin.

FRANCE – RED:

2005 Chateau Saint George, St. Emilion, Bordeaux 27.99/299.00
For three centuries Château Saint-Georges wine has been produced from the fifty hectares of vineyards that once belonged to King Henri. In 1891 Pétrus Desbois bought the Château and its surrounding land. He brought the vineyard back to life. His son and grandson have carried on where he left off. The 2005 vintage in Bordeaux is exceptional, and the Ch. St. George is no exception. This beautiful blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec highlight the exquisite nature of the vintage and the very accomplished winemaking at this stunning estate. Complex, earthy, and very stylish, this Bordeaux drinks well young but can grace your table for many years to come. Only twenty cases available. Magnums and three liters available.

2004 Domaine Terres Blanches, Les Baux de Provence, Provence, France 15.99/171.00
In 1968, Noël Michelin, scion of the famous French industrial family, got fed up with the amount of chemicals needed to grow coffee in Africa, sold his interests, and bought a beautiful winegrowing estate near St. Rémy de Provence. Today, Michelin’s estate boasts the oldest organic vineyards in the region, and his pioneering, eco-sensitive vision is being carried forward by his daughter and son-in-law. Deep black-plum colored in the glass and sporting a complex bouquet of crushed stones, dried garrigue, black pepper and black cherries, the Terres Blanches rouge balances its ripe exuberant fruit with the intense, wild herbal and rocky nature that defines the terroir on which it grows. A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine is a delicious blend of ripe southern fruit, wild aromatic herbs and rocky terroir. So distinctive, uncompromising and honest, this wine couldn’t have come from anywhere else. Fans of Southern Rhône, Provence and lusty soil-driven reds must try this wine. Pair this beauty with herbed roasts of pork or lamb, grilled hanger steaks, ratatouille and other hearty eggplant and garlic based vegetarian fare.

2004 La Cave des Vignerons, Cuvée Renaud de Valon, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 13.99/149.50
Between Minervois and Faugères in the center of the France’s arid, mountainous Languedoc region lies the sub-region of Saint-Chinian. Here deep, aromatic, intense wines are being crafted from traditional Rhône varietals. The Cuvée Renaud de Valon bursts with Southern French warmth and conviviality. Opaque plum-ruby in the glass, the nose explodes with ripe plum and cherry fruit accented by aromatic dried herbs. In the mouth, the wine opens with stony minerality, cherry and blackberry fruit followed by a lashing of dried herbes de Provence. Leather and sous bois notes mingle with hints of lavender, thyme and oregano. Bright and lively, the wine balances exceptionally well its exuberant fruit with its intense earthy nature. The Renaud de Valon’s finish just goes on, reprising the bright red and black fruit expressions and its herbal, earthy core. This is a gorgeous wine and a terrific value, so be sure to grab enough to get you through the spring morel season, the fall chanterelles and porcini, and hearty winter stews.

ITALY – RED:

2005 Ca' du Rabajà, "Uno," Vino da Tavola, Piedmont, Italy 19.99/213.50
Let’s not pull any punches: this is 100% declassified Barbaresco from the hallowed Rabajà vineyard that can’t be labeled as such due to the grower’s contract with the famed Produttori del Barbaresco. Rabajà, known for its elegance and longevity, is one of Barbaresco’s most prestigious vineyards. The Ca’ du Rabajà winery has captured the vineyard’s complex cherry fruit and limestone minerality in this most affordable “baby Barbaresco.” Deep garnet in color and casting gorgeous aromas of cinnamon, cloves and perfumed limestone, the Ca’ du Rabajà offers precocious fruit and approachability. On the palate, though, the wine tightens, revealing the Nebbiolo’s noble tannins and lip-smacking acidity. Dancing among the Rabajà’s earth, spice and cinnamon expressions are hints of fresh rose petals, ripe plums, Bing cherries, camphor and sarsaparilla. The Ca’ du Rabajà “Uno” is ready for your table tonight with egg-rich pasta dishes, braised meats and bean stews. It also promises to reward the patient with greater complexity with five to seven years in your cool cellar.

2005 Savignola Paolina, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 16.99/181.50
To quote Matt Kramer, “If Mozart made Chianti, it would be Paolina.” We concur. Savignola Paolina continues its string of Chianti Classico successes with this bright, lilting, wildly delicious 2005. With each vintage Savignola’s wines get more elegant and more refined, and this 2005 extends the winery’s unbroken streak. The 2005 Savignola Paolina casts a lovely plum-ruby color from the bowl followed by gorgeously pure aromas of raspberry, fennel, cinnamon bark and sandalwood. The Chianti’s elegant texture and vibrant fruit offers notes of red cherries and fresh loganberries coupled with hints of bay leaf, menthol, sweet tobacco and birch bark. The wine’s long, weightless, satisfying finish continues and expands on the wine’s pure red fruit theme, which will delight those who wish to drink it by itself as well as those who wish to enjoy it at the table. Best enjoyed now or over the next three to five years with pasta dishes, beef, pizza, chicken, pork or zucchini frittati.

SPAIN – RED:

2002 Montecillo, Crianza, Rioja, Spain 9.99/107.00
The Bodegas Montecillo is one of Rioja’s oldest and most venerable estates. In Spanish, the term crianza means “upbringing,” and in Rioja refers to a class of wines that must be aged for two years, with at least one year in wood. Montecillo’s 100% Tempranillo crianza is delicious and immediately appealing. Sporting aromas of ripe cherries, vanilla, and that unique and indescribable Rioja “spice,” the Montecillo caresses the palate with transparent, medium-bodied cherry fruit, bright acidity, soft tannins and a hint of earthiness. The wine is long and lingering on the finish, reprising the spicy red fruit themes and adding complex notes of smoke and tobacco. Lush, suave and immediately appealing, the Montecillo sports a long, lingering finish rare in such an affordable Rioja. Delicious now, we suggest pairing this with tapas, tomato- and potato-rich casseroles, or good ol’ burgers hot off the grill.

WHITES

AUSTRALIA – WHITE:

2005 McWilliam’s, Hanwood Estate, Riesling, South Eastern Australia 9.50/101.50
Sourcing fruit from high-altitude vineyards in New South Wales’ Eden Valley, McWilliam’s has crafted a gorgeous, aromatic and satisfying Riesling. Pale gold with Mosel-like green glints, the McWilliam’s Riesling opens with classic Riesling aromas of white peaches, lime zest, walnut oil and smoky dissolved minerals. Crisp and fruity on the attack with hints of Mirabelle plums, Rainier cherries and golden raspberries, the wine tightens mid-palate to offer bracing notes of lemony acidity and crisp minerals. The Riesling’s delicious peach and yellow fruit expressions return to the fore on its long, crisp and satisfying finish. This is one of the world’s most deliciously affordable Rieslings, and will be a terrific accompaniment to poached fish dishes, vegetable omelettes, and as a revivifying apéritif. Enjoy now and over the next two years.

FRANCE – WHITE:

2004 Kientzler, Pinot Gris, Alsace, France 16.99/181.50
André Kientzler and his son Thierry are producing textbook, delicious, character-filled wines from all of Alsace’s noble varieties. Best of all, they are available for very modest sums. To wit, Kientzler’s ’04 Pinot Gris. This release offers classic Pinot Gris aromas of smoke, minerals and hazelnuts accented by spicy, peachy botrytis. In the mouth, the wine shows the textbook weight and oiled texture of Pinot Gris balanced by crisp lemony acidity and a deft hint of residual sugar. Kientzler’s Pinot Gris finishes crisp, clean and weightless, brilliantly defying Pinot Gris’ too-often heaviness. To find a Pinot Gris that affordably offers this much character and balance is a cause célèbre. Enjoy now and over the coming three years with spring salmon, halibut, duck, green vegetable soufflés and, of course, choucroute garni.

2005 Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Southern Rhône Valley, France 9.50/101.50
The Perrin family owns and runs the great Château de Beaucastel estate, and the same care and expertise that goes into the great Beaucastel bottlings extends to their Côtes-du-Rhône reserve wines. A deep gold color in the glass, the Perrin Réserve blanc shows sweet honeysuckle, lemon and gardenia notes on the nose. The palate is rich, honeyed and immensely satisfying with suggestions of wet stones, smoke, honeydew melon and bitter orange peel. Viscous and resinous on the finish, the Perrin Réserve blanc sustains with a long, enticing suggestion of sweet pine nuts. Truly complex, this Côtes-du-Rhône blanc transcends its humble designation and offers great character. Pair this terrific blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 20% Bourbolenc, 10% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne and 10% Viognier with halibut, fowl, duck, braised rabbit and lighter lamb dishes.

2002 Domaine de la Louvetrie, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Fief du Breil, Loire Valley France 13.50/144.50
Jo Landron’s Muscadets, the buzz of New York but brand new to our market, are breathtaking in their purity and expressiveness. The Fief du Breil bottling is arguably Landron’s finest cuvée, the most transparent and most ageworthy. From the superb 2002 vintage, we have a Muscadet of rare authority and distinctiveness just now coming into maturity. The richness of the vintage plays beautifully with the intense minerality of the Fief du Breil’s orthogneiss terroir. The wine’s lovely straw-gold color yields to intense aromas of smoky minerality, honeydew melon and lime zest. Undercurrents of lime, melon and bergamot propel the wine’s mineral urgency and lead it to a long, smoky, terroir-driven finish. Enjoy this grand cru Muscadet now and over the next seven years with scallops, clams, oysters, grilled prawns and the full range of white-fleshed fish preparations. This is astonishingly great Muscadet.

ITALY – WHITE:

2005 E. Vallania Vigneto della Terre Rosse, Chardonnay, Colle Bolognesi, Emilia-Romagna, Italy 19.99/213.50
In the 1960s, Enrico Vallania envisioned an Italian Chardonnay unencumbered by oak and accented by the special red soils of his estate on the outskirts of Bologna. His successors carry on this vision and have produced a most distinctive smoky, nutty Chardonnay from the rich, classic 2005 vintage. Pale straw-gold in the glass, this “unwooded” Chardonnay is crisp and light-bodied. Vallania’s Chardonnay carries a distinctive mineral character from its nose to its palate impression and all the way through to its long, crisp finish. This special undercurrent lends this Chardonnay a complex, soil-driven expression, as opposed to yet another oaked up butterball. We suggest capturing all this crisp minerality by enjoying this wine young and pairing it with light pasta dishes, grilled vegetables, or roast halibut.

2006 Conti di Buscareto, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marches, Italy 9.50/101.50
Verdicchio is central Italy’s most distinctive white varietal. It scales its greatest heights in the mineral-rich soils of the Castelli di Jesi zone, just miles from the Adriatic Sea. Showing the expressiveness of the 2006 vintage, Conti di Buscareto’s Verdicchio has captured the varietal’s crisp, minerally side, especially its beguiling and appetizing lentil, green bean and sweet snap pea characters. Green-gold in the glass, the Verdicchio offers aromas of crisp Bartlett pears, sweet snap peas and honeydew melon. On the palate, the Verdicchio combines fleshy pear and key lime zest with a complex mineral expression before yielding to a long, rich finish. Serve this crisp, distinctive and classically styled Verdicchio now or over the coming two years with light pork preparations, freshwater fish dishes. and recipes featuring zucchini and summer squash.

2005 Tenuta Roveglia, Lugana, Lombardia, Italy 12.99/139.00
Here is the most expressive and distinctive Lugana yet to grace our palates. Roveglia’s Lugana opens with expressive Veltliner-like notes of snap peas, wildflower honey and crisp, salty minerals. The palate texture is waxier, richer and more sumptuous than your run-of-the-mill Luganas. Here the minerals are tactile and the thrust of the fruit transcends the Trebbiano’s reputation for neutrality. Nothing neutral about this wine, it offers beguiling floral aromatics, a rich, honeyed palate expression and a mineral-driven finish that will have Savennières fans swooning. Rare is the $13 bottle of wine that offers this much character and separates itself so far from the proverbial pack. Enjoy this with grilled summer vegetables, spinach frittati, the full range of seafood, as well as light pork and poultry dishes. Very limited.

2006 Filippo Gallino, Roero Arneis, Piedmont, Italy 12.99/139.99
In the early 1970s, Fillipo Gallino was one of Arneis’ pioneers in Piedmont’s Roero district. His experience and deftness with this fickle varietal is very evident in this lovely, aromatic 2006 bottling. Arneis’ beguiling aromas of creamy gardenias and sweet almonds are captured beautifully in Gallino’s crisp, focused 2006. Pale gold with brilliant green glints, Gallino’s Arneis shows taut minerality alongside notes of lemon zest, ripe kiwi fruit and sweet hay. Tight and minerally on the attack, the Arneis broadens on the palate with clean, citrus fruit before finishing bright and lively with further notes of fresh white flowers, smoky minerals and hints of sweet almonds. Delicate and refreshing, serve this by itself or pair it with light fish dishes and pastas with delicate white sauces. As with all Arneis, enjoy young to capture the wine’s delicacy, crispness and sweet aromas.

PORTUGAL - WHITE:

NV Alliança, Vinho Verde, Northeastern Portugal 7.99/85.50
Few wines are more refreshing and spring-like than the crisp vinho verdes of northeastern Portugal. Pale, shimmering and low in alcohol, they refresh and revive the spirit on warm sunny days. This vibrant, classic vinho verde from Alliança still sports some trapped CO2 in its pale green-gold robe. Musky, floral, crisp, lemony and simply delicious, there’s a ton of character inside this affordable wonder. On the palate, the wine shows fresh lemon and melon fruit coupled with salty minerality and a hint of cinnamon. Crisp and minerally on the finish, the wine’s lightness and lilt wakes up the palate and prepares it for another bite of fresh seafood, light salads, or pasta tossed in olive oil. A terrific wine to welcome the warmer weather, we suggest enjoying this through the summer and into the early fall.

ROSÉS

2006 Château la Canorgue, Côtes du Luberon, Rosé, Southern Rhône Valley, France 15.99/171.00
One whiff of this wine and what comes to mind are the finest Tavels and Bandol rosés. Produced from roughly equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, Canorgue’s rosé is fermented and aged in cool, stainless steel tanks to capture and preserve its delicate floral, fruit and mineral notes. The nose suggests the freshest raspberries, perfectly ripe watermelon and crisp, limestone minerality. Floral notes, minerals and further berry suggestions mark the Canorgue’s clean, crisp and zippy palate before segueing to a finish reprising raspberry and watermelon, adding hints of sweet fennel, smoky minerals and southern French garrigue. We think this is the rosé of the season!

NV Domaine des Baumard, Crémant de Loire, Rosé, Carte Corail Brut, Loire Valley, France 16.99/181.50
See “Sparkling Wines,” at top

Events & Tastings:

Friday Tastings

Saturday Tastings

Special Event: Wine Dinner

Featured Wines:

Sparkling

Dom. des Baumard Carte Turquoise Bru

Dom. des Baumard Rosé

Renardat-Fâche Bugey Cerdon

Reds

2006 O'Reilly's Pinot Noir

2005 Carter Vineyard Pinot Noir

2005 Ch. Saint George St. Emilion

2004 Dom. Terres Blanches Les Baux de Provence

2004 La Cave des Vignerons Cuvée Renaud de Valon

2005 Ca' du Rabajà "Uno"

2005 Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico

2002 Montecillo Crianza

Whites

2005 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Riesling

2004 Kientzler Pinot Gris

2005 Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc

2002 Dom. de la Louvetrie Muscadet

2005 E. Vallania Vigneto della Terre Rosse Chardonnay

2006 Conti di Buscareto Verdicchio

2005 Tenuta Roveglia Lugana

2006 Filippo Gallino Roero Arneis

NV Alliança Vinho Verde

Rosé

2006 Ch. la Canorgue Côtes du Luberon

JUNE 1 Brilliant Chenin-Blanc from the Loire Valley: Tijou, Joly, Baumard Foreau, Ch. De Fesles…and the list keeps growing.

JUNE 15 The 2005 White Burgundies: Destined to be a legendary vintage in Burgundy.

JULY 6 Australian Greatness! Don’t think Shiraz—think Riesling. It’s just a matter of time before these great Rieslings become the talk of the town.

JUNE 2 Italian Beauties! Conti di Buscareto Verdicchio, Filippo Gallino Roero Arneis, Tenuta Roveglia Lugana dei Castelli di Jesi, E. Vallania Vigneto della Terre Rosse Chardonnay, Savignola Paolina Chianti Classico, and Ca' du Rabajà Uno
Vino da Tavola.

JUNE 9 From France: Two bubblies from Dom. des Baumard, Dom. de la Louvetrie Muscadet, Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Terres Blanches Les Baux de Provence, and La Cave des Vignerons Cuvée Renaud de Valon Saint-Chinian.

JUNE 16 ’Round The World Tastes: Renardat-Fâche Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale, Alliança Vinho Verde, Portugal, Montecillo Crianza Rioja, Spain, Ch. la Canorgue Côtes du Luberon Rosé, and Ch. Saint George St. Emilion.

JUNE 23 McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Riesling, Kientzler Pinot Gris, O'Reilly's Pinot Noir, and Carter Vineyard Pinot Noir Hillblock.

JUNE 30 Rosés for Summer Sipping: Delightful rosés from around the world!

Wine Dinner Featuring The Great Wines of SCHIOPETTO AND SANDRONE
Castagna Restaurant,
Weds. June 20, 6:30 P.M.

Join us for a wine dinner featuring the great red wines of Luciano Sandrone and the brilliant white wines of Mario Schiopetto.

Sandrone, one of the leading producers in Barolo, makes wine in the modern style: elegant and attractive from their first years in bottle, but with no less power and structure than traditional Barolos.

About Schiopetto, Robert Parker writes: “A brilliant producer, Schiopetto is the reference point for just how flavorful, perfumed, and compelling dry whites from Friuli can be. ...They are dazzling wines that I can't recommend highly enough.”

$100.00 per person, inclusive. Advance payment will confirm your reservation.

Contact L&E for your reservation