Newsletter - July 2007

REDS

OREGON – RED:

2005 Underwood Cellars, Pinot Noir, Oregon 13.99/149.50
We featured Underwood’s stellar 2003 release to an enthusiastic response, and sold out in three weeks. We followed it with the 2004, and we sold out. Now we’re delighted to present Underwood’s 2005 release, and it’s again a knockout. Underwood Cellars is the personal project of Ryan Harms, former winemaker at Torii Mor and now a winemaker at Rex Hill. A lovely ruby color in the glass, Underwood’s 2005 Pinot boasts deep aromas of ripe loganberries, white pepper and root bark. The wine coats the palate with waves of red berry fruit accented by notes of smoke, caramel and wood spice. Long and lush on the back-palate, the Underwood finishes rich and satisfying far beyond its modest price tag. Few Pinots under $25 offer this kind of satisfaction. Enjoy now and over the next three years with grilled Chinook salmon, roast chicken, grilled vegetables or braised rabbit.

FRANCE – RED:

2004 Domaine Brana, Irouléguy, Ohitza, Southwestern France 15.99/171.00
Irouléguy is France’s westernmost appellation and, as in Madiran and Cahors, its principal red grape is the Tannat. But in Irouléguy, the Tannat must be blended with at least as much Cabernet Franc or Cabernet Sauvignon. Domaine Brana is one of the leading independent estates in the region, and its wines show the loving touch of individualized care. Brana’s Ohitza shows a classic opaque black-plum colored robe and deep aromas of violets, cinnamon, black Ceylon tea and wood spice. Rich and supple on the palate, unlike many wines made from Tannat, Brana’s Ohitza offers bright, lively flavors of cassis, blackberries, earth and licorice. Lively, vivacious, clean and simply brimming with bright, brambly fruit the wine finishes long, delicious, precise and clean – just begging you to pair it with roast lamb, beef, hearty potato casseroles or hard sheep’s milk cheeses. We recommend drinking this unknown wonder now and over the coming five years.

2003 Domaine du Cros, Marcillac, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, Southwest France 13.99/149.50
Here, ladies and gentlemen, is the geek wine of the newsletter: 100% Fer Servadou (Mansois, in local dialect) from 50- to 80-year old vines! New to our palates and delighting us with each and every sip, this old-vine Marcillac shows a brilliant black-ruby color and bursts with heady aromas of black currants, pepper, mesquite smoke, and soil notes of iron and limestone. Ripe and velvety on the attack with notes of black plums, licorice and tree bark, the Marcillac transitions from its ripe, heady fore-palate to a structured and firmly tannic mid-palate before yielding to a long, fresh and lively cinnamon-tinged finish. Aging in large foudres has tamed the Fer Servadou’s sauvagerie without sacrificing its rustic distinctiveness. Deep and lush, yet vibrant and food friendly, this Marcillac has us enthralled. Enjoy this wonder from the back roads of France now and over the next eight years with burgers, steaks, game and morel mushrooms in a cream sauce.

2005 Domaine Joël Rochette, Beaujolais-Villages, Burgundy, France 12.50/134.00
Joël Rochette is one of the leading lights of authentic, classically styled Beaujolais. Rochette’s wines express the honest exuberance of the noble Gamay Noir grape in natural context with Beaujolais’ smoky, granite terroir. A textbook, deep plum-ruby Gamay color in the glass, the Rochette Beaujolais-Villages segues to tarry, granite-infused cherry aromas and sappy flavors of loganberries, blueberries and sun-drenched Provençal cherries. Light on the palate yet packed with flavor, Rochette’s Beaujolais-Villages finishes with more sappy kirsch-like flavors accented by crunchy acidity, fine tannins and waves of granitic earthiness. Enjoy now and over the coming two years with roast chicken, duck, burgers, pizza, squab and potato-based vegetarian dishes. The 2005 Beaujolais vintage is getting major raves, and the reasons for this enthusiasm are distilled into this delicious, humbly priced bottle.

ITALY – RED:

2005 Filippo Gallino, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 13.50/144.50
This is the second time a Gallino Barbera has graced these pages and it’s easy to see why it commands an encore: this wine is utterly authentic and lip-smackingly food-friendly. The Barbera begins with a saturated black-ruby color and a welcoming bouquet of black plums, figs and violets. The lush palate is at once ripe with plum and boysenberry fruit while also offering complex notes of anise, leather and tar. The wine’s acidity deftly balances its lush, up-front fruit while fine, ripe tannins emerge on the wine’s long, appetizing finish. While Gallino’s Barbera is a treat to enjoy by itself, its true calling is at the table where it will complement grilled chicken, pasta dishes, carpaccio, tomato and eggplant casseroles, beef, lamb and just about anything that doesn’t swim. Enjoy now and over the coming three years.

2004 Marotti Campi, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, Rùbico, Marches, Italy 13.99/149.50
For those who missed last year’s sensation, Lacrima is the name of an ancient aromatic red varietal from the Marches region of central Italy. Lacrima creates one wild red wine that offers perhaps the most aromatic profile of any red grape varietal. A beautiful saturated purple-ruby color in the glass, Marotti Campi’s Lacrima explodes with perfumed Brachetto/Moscato-like aromas of freshly crushed loganberries, rose petals, bitter orange peel and violets. On the palate the Lacrima adds notes of black cherries, Thai basil and bergamot. The fresh berry fruit is countered by an appetizing bitterness and modest tannins, which will make it a wonderful accompaniment to braised meats, BBQ ribs, and pasta dishes featuring sun-dried tomatoes. This is truly one of Italy’s most distinctive wines: drink it young to capture all its fresh berry fruit and spicy, exotic aromas.

PORTUGAL – RED

2003 Quinta do Correio, Vinho Tinto, Dão, Portugal 11.99/128.00
Dry Portuguese red wines, especially those from the Dão region in north central Portugal, are making a splash thanks to their strikingly unique bouquets, their food-friendliness and their affordability. Quinto do Correio’s Vinho Tinto, a classic blend of Jaen (Tinta Mencia), Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinto Roriz, opens with a dense black-ruby color and bright, spicy aromas of freshly crushed raspberries, pink peppercorns and cured meats. Brisk and highly distinctive on the palate, the Correio continues with suggestions of crushed cherries, smoked paprika, fruitwood smoke and beef jerky. Suave and tactile on the palate, the Correio finishes long and bright, reprising notes of red fruits, smoked/cured meats and freshly ground exotic spices. This is a lovely choice for antipasti plates, pork or beef rubbed with smoky pimentón, salamis, teriyaki and other marinated and seasoned meats. Enjoy over the next two to three years to capture the wine’s spice and freshness.

WHITES

FRANCE – WHITE:

2005 Domaine d’Elise, Chablis, Burgundy, France 14.99/160.00
Frédéric Prain makes a village-level Chablis that conveys classic Chablis oyster-shell terroir and complexity beyond its humble designation. Beginning with a classic pale Chablis gold, the Domaine d’Elise Chablis opens slowly with chalky, soil-driven aromas of oyster shell, limestone, flint and lemon zest. The wine’s attack combines crisp Chardonnay fruit with an uncompromising lashing of minerality. Zesty and bursting with crushed minerals, the wine finishes with yet another wave of textbook Chablis terroir. The Domaine d’Elise Chablis is a definitive example and an outstanding choice to assert that le vrai Chablis is the world’s most terroir-driven wine. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with, yes, oysters on the half-shell, mussels, snapper, sole and other mild white-flesh fish dishes.

2006 Eugène Carrel et Fils, Vin de Savoie-Jongieux, Savoie, France 9.50/101.50
Last year we sold out in record time the 2005 rendition of this fresh Jacquère from Eugène Carrel. For those who missed last year’s sensation, be sure to latch onto a bottle of this year’s marvel. Carrel’s 2006 Jongieux opens with a bright pale gold-green color and refreshing scents of lemon curd, chamomile, lime zest and fresh kiwi. Zippy, fresh and bursting with crisp mineral-driving citrus fruit, the Carrel Jongieux is a gem from an up-and-coming region. The wine finishes as clean and fresh as it began, and thanks to its honorable 11.5% alcohol, you’ll find the bottle finished before your tongue gets soggy. Join us to discover and appreciate these unknown masterpieces of refreshment from the Savoie. Enjoy now and over the next year with poached fish preparations, green vegetables and anytime the call is for a light, refreshing, but never wimpy white wine.

2005 Cuvée Sélectionée par Kermit Lynch, Vin (Blanc) de Table du Vaucluse, Southern Rhône Valley, France 9.99/107.00
Look closely at the label. Of course the famed importer is prominently featured, but a little lower on the label appears the name Leydier et Fils. Yes that’s the same Leydier who makes the incomparable Domaine de Durban Muscat de Baumes-de-Venise. Here is what Leydier’s magical touch can create in a dry Southern Rhône blanc. We have the inimitable fusion of Southern Rhône blanc hawthorn, honeysuckle and wet stone mineral aromatics with the richness of a warm climate, all balanced by the deft touch of a master vigneron. Pale straw-gold in the glass, the Lynch/Leydier blanc bursts with a honey- and mineral-infused bouquet followed by a rich, sumptuous palate of sweet hazelnuts, ripe apricots, lemon curd and minerality. The wine finishes dry and crisp, with a reprise of the stony minerality and further suggestions of hazelnuts, dried fruits and delicate white flower aromatics. Pair now and over the next two years with dishes featuring aioli, Marcona almonds, pine nuts and buttery Southern French olive oil.

2006 La Gascogne par Alain Brumont, Gros Manseng, Southwestern France 8.99/96.00
Alain Brumont is one of our favorite producers in southwestern France. Brumont’s 2006 Gros Manseng, a charming varietal indigenous to southwest France, is a delicious, thirst-quenching wine from the hills in France’s famous Gascony region. Brilliant gold in color with refreshing green glints, it announces itself with one swirl, releasing appetizing aromas of honeysuckle, lemon balm, petrol, grapefruit and freshly cut grass. On the palate, the Gros Manseng shows impressive weight and texture driven by notes of lemon, Bartlett pear, pine resin and lime. The finish is juicy, long and lingering, revisiting the wine’s citrus and fruit expressions and herbal nuances before adding hints of peaches, stony minerals and sorrel. This splendidly distinctive wine will make a fine summer sipper, or pair with vegetables, chicken, duck and mild fish preparations. Drink young to capture the delicate fruit and herbal nuances.

ITALY – WHITE

2005 d’Antiche Terre, Greco di Tufo, Campania, Italy 17.99/192.50
Greco di Tufo is a highly aromatic white varietal grown in southern Italy’s Campania region. The key to success with Greco is to allow its aromatic nature to shine while preserving its acidity and preventing the wine from oxidizing. D’Antiche’s 2005 Greco succeeds admirably in all respects, with a brilliant gold color segueing to appetizing aromas of citrus zest, ripe pears, smoky minerals and star fruit. Smoky, gunflint minerals transition the Greco to its crisp, honeyed mid-palate infused with Campania’s classic volcanic soil inflections. The wine finishes with sappy almond and citrus fruit notes, making this one of the most vivacious and refreshing Grecos in our experience. Enjoy now as an apéritif or as a complement to grilled prawns, whole roasted sea bream, or pasta dressed with a white sauce. Enjoy now and over the next two years.

2006 Girolamo Dorigo, Ribolla Gialla, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy 15.99/171.00
Who can resist Ribolla’s juicy lemon and herb expression, or its firm acidity, or its ability to translate its soil’s mineral expression into the glass? The Girolamo Dorigo winery, one of Fruili’s finest and most forward-thinking, has taken all of Ribolla’s unique personality and produced a winner of a summer white. Dorigo’s Ribolla starts with a pale straw color in the glass highlighted by green glints, then segues to aromas and flavors of wet stones, basil, menthol, lentils and gardenia. A juicy, ripe acidity balances the wine’s round mouthfeel and leads to a long, crisp finish suggesting creamy lemon curd, sappy pine nuts and dissolved minerals. We recommend enjoying this Ribolla young to capture all of its youthful enthusiasm with summer vegetable dishes and light fish preparations.

SPAIN – WHITE

2006 Bodegas Pablo Padin, Albariño, Segrel, Rias Baixas, Spain 13.50/144.50
Hailing from Galicia in far northwestern Spain, Albariño is enjoyed in its youth primarily in the restaurants and tapas bars of Spain. Nowadays in the U.S., thanks to our appreciation for this rare and fickle varietal, we’re seeing more and more bottlings of Albariño. Pablo Padin's Segrel begins with a lovely pale green-gold color and a highly aromatic bouquet of honeysuckle blossoms, chamomile and subtly smoky minerals. On the palate, the Segrel is light, zippy and delicious. The finish reprises the complexity of the wine’s aromas with minerally acidity offering essences of lime, honeydew melon and Mirabelle plums. Enjoy this highly aromatic food-friendly white wine over the coming year with calamari, scallops, oysters or Dungeness crab, or on its own as an attention-grabbing apéritif.

ARGENTINA – WHITE

2006 Finca El Reposo, Saint Jeannet, Mendoza, Argentina 7.99/85.00
Saint Jeannet is an ancient, thought-to-be-extinct white varietal brought to Italy and France by the Greeks. The Saint Jeannet vines probably found their way to Argentina the same way the Bonarda did. To the best of our knowledge these approximately four acres of Saint Jeannet are unique in the world: the vines are all ninety years old, they all go into this rare and astonishingly affordable bottling, and it’s really good! Pale straw-gold in color, the wine yields aromas of honey, pear, mango and lemon zest. In the mouth sweet honeydew melon notes play with crisp, bracing acidity and back-palate notes of pineapple. Long, exotic and refreshing, the wine finishes crisp and clean. Pair with fried calamari, grilled prawns, sautéed sea scallops, brook trout and other summer seafood preparations. Drink now to capture the wine’s zest and vibrancy.

ROSÉS

FRANCE - ROSÉ

2006 Jean-Pierre Gaussen, Bandol Rosé, Provence, France 17.99/192.50
Our best selling rosé of 2005 is back with a vengeance in 2006! Along with Tavel, Bandol is one of rosé’s holy lands. Limpid, aromatic and thirst-quenchingly delicious, Gaussen’s ’06 rosé offers a beautiful salmon color and aromas of watermelon, fennel seed and dried herbs. The wine’s crisp, crunchy palate mixes leathery, limestone soil notes with classic Provençal nuances of dried lavender, rosemary and thyme. Long, clean and oh-so-thirst-slaking, the Gaussen’s finish is complex, pure and crystalline, far beyond the calling for its genre. Drink young with grilled salmon, chicken, burgers, pizza… well, just about anything! Gaussen’s rosé is in limited supply every year and sells out within the month, so don’t delay.

2006 Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue, Rosé, Tradition, Coteaux du Languedoc, France 11.99/128.00
Allow us to quote the irrepressible Kermit Lynch: “Cinsault 50%, Grenache Noir 20%, Syrah 30%. Stony soil, eastern exposure, breezes from the nearby Mediterranean. Bright, lively color. The aroma is strong, elegant, and complex with cassis, blackberry, and more… We like it when we grill outdoors, with composed salads, pizzas, pâté, smoked salmon, and Mediterranean vegetable preparations like zucchini and eggplant gratins.” Sounds great to us, but we also love the bouquet of subtle leather and garrigue, as well as tastes of juicy watermelon and Rainier cherry fruit. This is world-class rosé and as fine a tonic as we’ve ever prescribed for a pick-me-up on the sunny back deck. Yum.

New Address:
2222 NW Quimby St. (at 22nd Ave.)
Portland, Oregon
800-903-9463 • 503-241-9463

Events & Tastings:

Friday Tastings

Saturday Tastings

Special Events at L&E

Featured Wines:

Samplers

Kermit Lynch South of France Sampler

2005 St. Innocent Sampler

Reds

2005 Underwood Cellars Pinot Noir

2004 Domaine Brana Irouléguy

2005 Domaine Joël Rochette Beaujolais-Villages

2003 Domaine du Cros Marcillac Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

2005 Filippo Gallino Barbera d’Alba

2004 Marotti Campi Lacrima di Morro d’Alba

2003 Quinta do Correio, Vinho Tinto

Whites

2005 Domaine d’Elise Chablis

2006 Eugène Carrel Vin de Savoie-Jongieux

2005 Cuvée Sélectionée Kermit Lynch Vin de Table du Vaucluse

2006 La Gascogne par Alain Brumont Gros Manseng

2005 d’Antiche Terre Greco di Tufo

2006 Girolamo Dorigo Ribolla Gialla

2006 Bodegas Pablo Padin Albariño

2006 Finca El Reposo Saint Jeannet

Rosés

2006 Jean-Pierre Gaussen Bandol Rosé

2006 Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue Rosé Tradition

July 6 Australian Greatness! Don’t think Shiraz—think Riesling. It’s just a matter of time before these great Rieslings are the talk of the town.

July 20 Four Decades of Rioja: Lopez de Heredia, Faustino, Muga and many others. Experience the glory!

Aug. 3 Italy’s Finest Whites: Jermann, Schiopetto, Felluga, and more.

July 7 The L&E staff will be on hand with the St. Innocent Pinot Noir sampler. Plus: Eugène Carrel Vin de Savoie-Jongieux, Alain Brumont Gros Manseng, Dom. Joël Rochette Beaujolais-Villages, and Quinto do Correio Vinho Tinto.

July 14 David Rounds of Triage will serve up a dazzling display of great wines: El Reposo St. Jeannet, Dom. du Cros Marcillac Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, and Dom. Brana Irouléguy Ohitza. Plus: Girolamo Dorigo Ribolla Gialla and Underwood Cellars Pinot Noir.

July 21 Craig Hedstrom of Vineria Italia debuts some Italian beauties: d’Antiche Terre Greco di Tufo, Marotti Campi Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Rùbico, and Filippo Gallino Barbera d’Alba. PLUS: we pour a fine selection of P.S. Wines – Jean-Pierre Gaussen Bandol Rosé, Bodegas Pablo Padin Albariño Segrel, and Dom. d’Elise Chablis.

July 28 D’Vine Wines will be on hand to pour our Kermit Lynch Sampler, plus more Kermit Lynch goodies: Ch. Saint Martin de la Garrigue Rosé and Cuvée Sélectionée Vin (Blanc) de Table du Vaucluse.

2005 DOMAINE WEINBACH
Wine Tasting at L&E
Tuesday, July 17, 6:30 p.m.

Wow! It’s our ninth annual Domaine Weinbach tasting. Established in 1612, Dom. Weinbach is one of the oldest estates in Alsace and continues to make some of the world’s most highly regarded and prestigious wines. This year we will feature a comprehensive tasting of their 2005 Rieslings, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminers, from another superlative vintage. Plus some rare, older treats!

Seating is very limited, and prior payment will confirm your reservation. $85.00 per person.

Contact L&E for your reservation

* * *

SELBACH-OSTER
German Wine Tasting at L&E
Monday, August 20, 5:00-7:00 p.m.
No reservation needed; fee

Liner & Elsen welcomes to Portland one of Germany’s most celebrated winemakers, Johannes Selbach.
We will taste current releases plus an array of older vintage Selbach-Oster Rieslings. Tasting fee: $15.00