Newsletter - October 2007

RED WINES

OREGON – RED:

2006 Ayres, Pinot Noir, Piper, Willamette Valley, Oregon 33.99/363.00
Here is one of Oregon’s most fruit-driven and deliciously accessible Oregon Pinot Noirs. Deep, opaque plum-ruby in the glass, the ’06 Ayres Piper opens with ripe aromas of boysenberries, plums, cherries and earth. Leaning strongly to Pinot’s purple-black spectrum, the Piper continues its fruit-intensive package with further waves of berry fruit accented by barrel notes of vanilla, caramel and coffee and framed by plentiful, round tannins. Dark, brooding and totally palate-staining, the Ayres Piper segues to a long, fruit-filled finish marked by complex notes of cloves, menthol, black licorice and spicy cinnamon. Enjoy this fruit-forward, lush, yet splendidly balanced Oregon Pinot over the next three years with grilled salmon, grilled chicken and everyday fare like burgers and pork chops.

2006 Evesham Wood, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 16.99/181.50
Year in and year out, Russ and Mary Raney’s Evesham Wood winery issues one of the Willamette Valley’s very finest value Pinot Noirs. In the 2006 vintage, they have turned out another winner. A blend of fruit from non-irrigated, sustainably-farmed vineyards, Evesham Wood’s 2006 Pinot opens with a lovely plum-ruby robe and complex aromas of freshly crushed cranberries, raspberries and cloves. The appetizing bouquet segues to a snappy palate of ripe red raspberries, tart cranberries, menthol and earth. The wine’s long, crisp finish reprises the red berry fruit and adds a complex soil expression rarely found in Pinot Noirs offered in such a modest price bracket. Drink now with roast chicken or, better yet, lay a case down for a few months and serve it with salmon and lighter cuisine. Time will serve this beauty well and reward your patience with extra complexity, texture and nuance.

FRANCE – RED:

2004 Domaine Berthoumieu, Madiran, Southwest France 11.99/128.00
Along with Cahors, Madiran is one the two legendary “black wines of France.” Berthoumieu’s 2004 fuses the traditional intensity of Madiran with an abundance of ripe, nuanced fruit that makes it approachable now. All of Madiran’s black-purple opacity is here, but the wine is richer, riper, and less fierce than in past generations. Berthoumieu’s 2004 Madiran boasts a brooding nose of blackberry and black plum fruits. The initial palate impression offers earth, leather, and dried herbs, but the wine’s earthy expression is joined on the mid-palate by tarry plum and blackberry fruit and firm, mouth-coating tannins. The wine’s back-palate introduces a clay soil nuance, which marries perfectly with the wine’s plentiful tannins and deep black fruit expressions. Lovers of big, bold reds are advised to give this special wine a try. Enjoy now or over the coming fifteen years with magret de canard, rib roasts of beef and hearty eggplant-rich vegetarian casseroles.

ITALY - RED:

2005 Girolamo Dorigo, Cabernet Franc, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy 14.99/160.00
Girolamo Dorigo is a rock star in Friuli, and all the attention he’s received for his incomparable white wines extends to this extraordinary Cabernet Franc. Dispel your notions of under-ripe, green bell pepper Cab Francs of yesteryear. Dorigo has fashioned a Cab Franc that offers perfect varietal typicity in full ripeness and texture. Deep black-plum in the glass, the wine opens with an expressive nose of strawberry blossoms, red raspberries and balsamic-glazed beef. A deep mineral undercurrent emerges from the bouquet and carries into the mouth, where it’s joined by ripe berry fruit coupled with notes of leather, tamari, cinnamon, cloves and tobacco. Lush, transparent and utterly distinctive, the wine finishes long, with a coda of bitter chocolate and fine pipe tobacco. Other than artichokes, asparagus and seafood, there is little with which this wonder won’t pair well, so enjoy it now and over the coming five years.

2005 Tenuta Valdipiatta, Rosso di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy 15.99/171.50
Rosso di Montepulciano is the younger sibling of the esteemed Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and is designed to be enjoyable and at its peak at an earlier age. A deep black-purple color in the glass, Valdipiatta’s Rosso explodes with aromas of spicy, black cherry fruit complemented by notes of leather, pipe tobacco and soil. Suave on the palate, Valdipiatta’s Rosso combines sweet, lush cherry and boysenberry fruit with firm acidity, buffered tannins and a complex mineral spine. Long and lingering on the finish, the Rosso revisits its ripe red and black fruit themes and adds further suggestions of tobacco, leather and mineral-infused soil. Enjoy now with hearty pasta dishes, grilled beef, roast pork and rich Tuscan bean stews.

2001 Vietti, Barolo, Castiglione, Piedmont, Italy 39.99/427.00
“Pretty” is rarely a word attached to the wines from Barolo, but this is among the prettiest young Barolos we’ve ever tasted. Here we have a Barolo in a classic vintage from among the region’s finest producers that offers delicate aromatics and transparent flavors. A gorgeous, saturated ruby color with loganberry, wild cherry and floral notes on the nose, the Vietti follows up with a palate driven by intense mineral undercurrents complemented by classic Barolo notes of tar, leather, menthol and mushroom underbrush. With decades of life ahead, Vietti’s ’01 Castiglione is amazingly approachable for those who can’t wait. The finish adds hints of espresso, bitter chocolate, smoke and saddle leather. This is as fantastic a Barolo as you’re likely to find at a price that won’t decimate the budget. Enjoy now and over the next twenty years with traditional Piemontese fare like beef brasato, rich risotto, hearty, egg-rich pasta dishes and grilled rack of lamb.

2005 Torre dei Beati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy 14.99/160.00
Torre dei Beati is an up-and-coming winery committed to doing all the right things to put them in the upper echelon of Abruzzese producers. Their ’05 Montepulciano is a textbook example of this Abruzzese wine, combining a deep black-ruby color with complex aromatic, suave texture and terrific length on the finish. Notes of ripe plums and boysenberries mingle with suggestions of tar, earth and tobacco. The wine hits the palate with ripe fruit, but then coats the tongue with suave tannins and a clay-limestone expression. On its long finish, the wine offers suggestions of dusty black cherry fruit, tar, bay leaf and minerals. Dense and complex, this Montepulciano will work especially well as a cool weather rosso with hearty vegetarian casseroles and pasta dishes, or paired with roast beef, grilled lamb, venison and rich pork dishes. Drink now or cellar for three to seven years.

SPAIN – RED:

Two “Faustinian” Bargains
These are rigidly traditional Riojas from Bodegas Faustino, one of Rioja’s most prominent and venerable estates. Extended ageing in old French and American oak barrels adds to the depth, complexity and special nuance that the noble Tempranillo grape finds only in Rioja. Great bargains both, these age-worthy wonders can be enjoyed now and over the coming decade with grilled and roasted beef, lamb, venison and other red meats. They both will also delight with Manchego cheese, as well as potato, tomato and vegetable tapas that eschew seafood.

• 2002 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino V Reserva, Rioja. Spain 16.99/181.50
Reservas are often the classification of wines around which Rioja bodegas build their reputation. One step below the Gran Reservas, Reservas are intended to display the estate’s style, touch and distinctiveness at affordable prices. Distinctive? Just put your nose into a glass of this Faustino V Reserva. This is a wine that’s just beginning its drinking window. Deep black plum in color, the Faustino V offers complex aromas of Bing cherries, earth, saddle leather, dark tobacco, fresh roasted coffee, cinnamon and cloves. Tense at first, the wine opens to reveal earthy cherry fruit backed by fine tannins, brisk acidity and an intense lashing of dissolved minerals. Deeply complex and just beginning to strut its stuff, the Faustino V finishes with reprises of tobacco, cloves, earth and coffee.

• 1996 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino I Gran Reserva, Rioja. Spain 27.99/299.00
Hailing from forty-year-old vines, the Faustino I is the bodega’s flagship wine and a benchmark for traditional Rioja Tinto Gran Reserva. Here we have the classic aged Rioja plum-crimson core gradating to a garnet-amber rim followed by complex aromas of plums, cherries, tobacco and leather. Smooth, suave and velvety on the palate, the wine alternates layers of cassis, minerals, pipe tobacco, earth and leather. Complex, nimble and lively, the Faustino I finishes long and complex with firm acidity, buffered tannins and further notes of cedar, tobacco, cinnamon, smoke and leather. A superb example of the complex, subtle and velvet texture of a mature, traditional Rioja Gran Reserva.

WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE:

NV Domaine Labbé, Vin de Savoie, Brut, Méthode Traditionelle, Jura-Savoie, France 13.99/149.50
Ever long for a sparking wine as cool and crisp as the proverbial Alpine stream? Well here it is. The grapes are the indigenous Jacquère with a little help from the Roussette, and there’s nothing heavy or ponderous about this sparkling gem. Straw gold in the glass with plenty of persistent bubbles, Labbé’s Méthode Traditionelle – a term used to connote a sparkling wine made in the classic champagne method – opens with a clean bouquet of golden raspberries, kiwi and freshly cut fennel. On the palate, the wine first shows tactile texture and notes of pastis, meadow flowers and Chartreuse-like herbs before segueing to a finish that truly is as clear and weightless as a mountain stream. The wine finishes clean and pure with added notes of caraway seeds, anise and smoky minerals. Drink now, drink young, and buy by the case, as this is the rare sparkling wine that delivers the kind of freshness and verve that gives Champagne a run for its money.

2006 Château de l’Aiguillette, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley, France 9.50/101.50
Muscadet from the right producers, and the right terroirs, can age and gain texture, nuance and complexity. This is young Muscadet at its finest. Straw-gold in color and casting beautiful Muscadet aromas of smoky oyster shells, smoke and lemon balm, this wine is brisk, bracing and steely. But behind it all is a latent richness that will only reveal itself in time. Rich and beguiling lemon curd, lanolin and smoky notes mark both the palate and the wine’s long, ringing finish. October is the second month of the new oyster/bivalve season, and this is the ideal wine to accompany your plate of freshly shucked Willapa Bays, Kumamotos, Belons, or your favorite shellfish or white-fleshed fish preparation. Enjoy now or over the coming three years.

2006 Frédéric Giachino, Roussette de Savoie, Altesse, Jura-Savoie, France 13.99/149.50
We couldn’t resist this unbelievably pure Altesse-Roussette from Frédéric Giachino. In the cool, sub-Alpine climate of the Savoie, the Roussette (Altesse) grape gains exceptional crispness, vivacity and beguiling floral aromas. Giachino’s Altesse, from the exceptionally balanced 2006 vintage, casts dazzling aromas of comice pears, white flowers, brown sugar and honeyed beeswax from the glass. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, Giachino’s Altesse adds notes of sweet fennel, Meyer lemon and crisp, limestone minerals. Vivid, vivacious, light and stunningly refreshing, it’s hard to discern whether one should simply enjoy this wonder by itself or to pair it with delicate white-fleshed fish dishes, young Comté cheeses, simple roast chicken or light zucchini frittatas. In any case, this wine will electrify you with its freshness and its verve. Enjoy it young, fresh and cool, but not too cold.

2006 Le G de Château Guiraud, Bordeaux Blanc Sec, France 15.99/171.00
Tasting the rare dry white wines from Bordeaux’s Sauternes region is always a treat. The legendary Château Guiraud produces this affordable rarity from a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sémillon. Medium gold in the glass, the “G” opens with Sauvignon’s grassy, herbal edge accented by hints of coconut, hay, beeswax and pineapple. Fresh and bursting with exuberance on the palate, the wine continues with notes of pineapple, pine resin, marjoram and barrel notes of coconut and vanilla bean. Terrifically long and lingering on the finish, the waxy Sémillon character comes forth with rich, sappy texture and further accents of pineapple, sweet coconut, pine sap, basil and grass. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with rich white meat dishes like roast chicken, duck and braised rabbit. It will also complement sautéed green vegetables and vegetarian lasagna.

2005 Kuentz-Bas, Alsace Blanc, Alsace, France 10.50/112.50
This is Kuentz-Bas’ basic, everyday white: a floral, beguiling mélange and a wine that you will wish came in a much bigger bottle. From its gorgeously pale green-gold robe to its crisp, crackling aromas of tangerine, pear, gardenia blossoms and petrol, the wine delivers classic Alsatian character and terroir in a very affordable package. The Kuentz-Bas’ palate adds notes of white peaches, hops and bergamot before yielding to a long, super-clean, crisp finish. The combination is divine: a lovely autumn sipper next to a warming fire, or a lovely complement to salmon, halibut, pork, poultry, grilled squashes – serve with just about anything but red meat. Enjoy this delicious value now or over the coming three years. And be forewarned, one bottle will not be enough!
-A Kermit Lynch Selection

ITALY – WHITE:

2006 Ernesto Picollo, Gavi di Gavi, Rovereto, Piedmont, Italy 12.99/139.00
The Italian wine authorities have blessed Gavi with their highest honor, full D.O.C.G. status. Ernesto Picollo has captured the essence of Gavi, and offers it at a most affordable tariff. Picollo’s Gavi begins with a light gold color accented by green highlights and aromas of lemon zest, chalky minerals and hay. The Gavi’s attack is first crisp and juicy, but then broadens on the mid-palate to offer notes of lime zest, honeydew melon, gooseberries and crisp Bartlett pears. The wine finishes crisp and refreshing, with reprises of limestone minerals, citrus zest, smoke and almond skin, and gives a splendid tactile grip as it lingers pleasantly on the palate. Drink young to capture the Gavi’s freshness, crispness and zip. Enjoy with golden trout, snapper, seasonal squashes, clams and halibut.

PORTUGAL – WHITE:

2005 Quinta das Maias, Vinho Branco, Dão, Portugal 11.50/123.00
Portugal’s Dão region is well known to be Portugal’s finest source of dry red wines, but conscientious producers like Quinta das Maias are raising the ante by experimenting with indigenous varietals to make modern dry white wines. Blending Malvasia Fina (50%), Encruzado (30%), Verdelho (15%) and Cercial (5%), Quinta das Maias has created a crisp, distinctive white that’s sure to waken the palate. A brilliant pale straw color in the glass, the Maias Branco opens with potent smoky, salty mineral notes accented by kiwi and lime. Broad on the attack, the wine tightens mid-palate with juicy acidity and plenty of cut. On its brisk palate, the wine displays notes of honeydew melon, lemon curd and dissolved minerals. The Quinta das Maias finishes fresh and clean with another lashing of smoky minerals alongside a core of citrus fruit. Enjoy now to capture the Branco’s freshness and pair with grilled vegetables and the entire spectrum of seafood.

GREECE– WHITE:

2006 Semeli, Mountain Sun, Dry White Wine of Peloponnese, Greece 9.99/107.00
Brilliant gold in the glass with lime highlights, Semeli’s “Mountain Sun” is a gorgeously perfumed white wine based on Greece’s indigenous Moschofilero and Roditis grapes. Dazzling with exotic aromas of tangerine, starfruit, and white flowers, the wine segues to a crisp, clean palate featuring notes of freshly squeezed lemon, lime, pink grapefruit and pineapple. Superb acid and cut propel a long citrus-tinged finish, which reprises the wine’s lemon, grapefruit and tropical notes accented by a firm current of minerals. Unique, delicious and tremendously versatile, we suggest pairing this over the coming year with shellfish, squid, seasonal squashes – even light pork and chicken preparations. Fascinating wine!

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St. (at 22nd Ave.)
Portland, Oregon
800-903-9463 • 503-241-9463

Events & Tastings

Friday Tastings

Saturday Tastings

Featured Wines

:: Sampler ::

L&E Chablis Sampler

:: Reds ::

2006 Ayres Piper Pinot Noir

2006 Evesham Wood Pinot Noir

2004 Domaine Berthoumieu Madiran

2005 Girolamo Dorigo Cabernet Franc

2001 Vietti Barolo

2005 Torre dei Beati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

2005 Tenuta Valdipiatta Rosso di Montepulciano

2002 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino V Reserva Rioja

1996 Bodegas Faustino Faustino I Gran Reserva

:: Whites ::

NV Domaine Labbé Vin de Savoie Brut Méthode Traditionelle

2006 Château de l’Aiguillette Muscadet

2006 Frédéric Giachino Roussette de Savoie

2006 Le G de Château Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc Sec

2005 Kuentz-Bas Alsace Blanc

2006 Ernesto Picollo Gavi di Gavi

2005 Quinta das Maias Vinho Branco

2006 Semeli Mountain Sun

:: Olive Oil::

2006 Fattoria di Felsina Olive Oils

Oct. 5 Amazing reds and whites from Campagna, Italy: Mastroberadino, Galardi, Terradora, Feudi Di San Gregorio, D’Antiche Terre, and more!

Oct. 19 Northern Rhône Valley Wines: The Big, The Bold and The Beautiful! Faury, Cuilleron, Champet, Guerin, and more!

Nov. 2 Glorious Spanish wines from the Priorat: Torres, Rottlan-Tora, Val Llach, Alexandro Fernandez, and Scala Dei, just for starters.

Oct. 6 Evesham Wood Pinot Noir, Ayres Piper Pinot Noir, Frédéric Giachino Roussette de Savoie Altesse, and Kuentz-Bas Alsace Blanc. Plus: Our L&E Chablis Sampler.

Oct. 13 Quinta das Maias Vinho Branco Dão, Semeli Mountain Sun Dry White Wine Peloponnese, Faustino V Reserva Rioja, and ’96 Faustino I Gran Reserva.

Oct. 20 Tutti Italia: Picollo Gavi di Gavi Rovereto, Torre dei Beati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Girolamo Dorigo Cabernet Franc, Valdipiatta Rosso di Montepulciano, and Vietti Barolo Castiglione.

Oct. 27 La France Entière: NV Dom. Labbé Vin de Savoie Méthode Traditionelle, Ch. de l’Aiguillette Muscadet, Ch. Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc, Dom. Bertoumieu Madiran, and Dom. Mouthes le Bihan Vieillefont.

NEW! Web-Only Specials The “Web Extra” icon stands for wines that we’re featuring this month on the website only – they won’t appear in the print or e-mail newsletter. This month: 2003 Domaine Mouthes le Bihan