NOVEMBER 2011 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2010 Broadley Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ... 15.99/171.00
In the southernmost, warmest and driest sector of the Willamette Valley, Broadley Vineyards has for over twenty years been crafting exemplary Pinot Noirs. Broadley’s just-released 2010 Willamette Valley release is a blend of grapes bought from the region’s top vineyards. A brilliant ruby color in the glass, the wine opens with deep aromas of black raspberries, cloves and earthy cranberries. Bright and quite generous for the cool 2010 harvest, Broadley’s Pinot shows fine tannins and bristling acidity that propel the wine’s core of berry fruit, while being accented by brown spices and a dark soil signature. Hints of caramel, bitter orange and dark roasted coffee beans emerge on the wine’s long, persistent finish. While Broadley’s 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot is ready now to pair with burgers, roast chicken, turkey, duck and vegetarian lasagna, it also shows the structure and balance for two to four years of positive evolution in the bottle. This is an outstanding example of affordable artisanal Willamette Valley Pinot Noir.

2009 Cameron, Pinot Noir, Reserve, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon ... 26.99/288.50
It’s been years since owner-winemaker John Paul released a Reserve bottling. This blend, sourced from Clos Electrique, Abbey Ridge, Arley’s Leap and Gehrts vineyards, delivers a full-throttle mouthful of grand cru Dundee Hills Pinot Noir for a very modest price. Cameron’s reserve casts deeply pitched aromas of boysenberry fruit backed by suggestions of violets, game, herbs and smoky soil. The wine then stains the palate with blackberry and cranberry fruit complicated by suggestions of cinnamon, pink rose petals and barrel hints of vanilla, caramel and barrel char. While the wine definitely possesses the big kernel of ripe fruit that is the hallmark of the 2009 vintage, Cameron’s Reserve – at a very respectable 13.2% alcohol – shows remarkably fine structure and unusual deftness for the vintage. On the finish, the Reserve turns its focus to the wine’s earthy, graphite, and soil signature. An incredible wine and a steal for its tariff, buy this by the case for enjoyment over the next decade with hearty roast chicken, pork with sage dressing, grilled eggplant, and all dishes beef and lamb.

FRANCE – RED

2008 Maison Boisard Fils, Domaine du Mortier, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil, Graviers, Loire Valley, France ... 16.99/181.50 Reg. 19.99
Delicious, full of character and extremely food friendly, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil’s reds and rosés are very much in favor at the hippest Parisian bistros. Domaine du Mortier’s Graviers cuvée, from 30-year-old organically farmed vines on gravel soils, conveys beautifully the amiable, immediately enjoyable side of Cabernet Franc. Transparent plum colored in the glass, the Graviers soars with aromas of gravelly, lead pencil-tinged cassis fruit. Plush in the mouth, the wine coats the palate with velvety textured plum, cherry and cassis fruit accented by suggestions of tobacco, fresh herbs, button mushrooms, gravel and leafy sous bois. Long and sappy on the finish, the Graviers bursts with juicy acidity followed by fine, buffered tannins and a closing dash of that good ol’ French funkiness that we so adore. This is a delicious, autumnal Cab. Franc that works with your herbed Thanksgiving turkey or with poultry, pork and light vegetarian fare.

2009 Lucien Lardy, Fleurie, Les Roches, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France ... 15.99/171.00
Known for beautifully perfumed expression of Gamay, Fleurie is one of Beaujolais’ largest crus and perhaps its most famous. A brilliant plum-ruby color in the glass, the Les Roches alternates waves of smoky, meaty aromas and lovely floral overtones. Brisk on the attack, the wine shows vintage 2009’s exemplary core of ripe red and black berry fruit while also exhibiting elegance and restraint. On the finish, the wine asserts its smoky mineral soil signature and leaves the palate with bright, high-toned cherry fruit. The high-altitude vineyard, combined with Lardy’s deft winemaking touch, yields a Fleurie of superb structure, grace and core of sappy berry fruit. We suggest buying a case to be enjoyed now with roast chicken, burgers and everyday fare, and again after five to seven years in your cool cellar. The harmony, balance and structure of the wine will allow the genie in the bottle to reveal added complexity and an even more assertive mineral expression. An astonishing value for a Fleurie of this caliber – great wine!

2009 Château Peybonhomme les Tours, Premières Côtes de Blaye, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France ... 17.99/192.50
These days a great value red Bordeaux is as rare as the proverbial hen’s teeth. The Premières Côtes de Blaye is situated across the Gironde river from the Médoc and Margaux. Here Merlot is the dominant varietal and makes for wonderfully scented, authentic Bordeaux for a fraction of the cost of its neighbors across the river or those from Pomerol and St. Émilion to the south. The 2009 Peybonhomme les Tours explodes with notes of gravelly earth, plums, tobacco, cinnamon and dark chocolate. Firm and structured on the attack, the wine’s lush herbal-scented Merlot fruit core is framed gracefully by plentiful tannins and juicy acidity. The wine finishes long and complex – far above its humble Cru Bourgeois designation – with a haunting mocha note mingling with dusty, gravelly earth. For those who reminisce about the days when good, honest Bordeaux could still be found at everyday prices, this wine’s for you. Be sure to buy enough to enjoy now and over the next decade with rib roasts of beef, roast leg of lamb, duck, rabbit and hearty potato-rich casseroles. Great, honest, authentic Bordeaux.

2008 Château Lafleur de Haute-Serre, Georges Vigouroux, Malbec, Cahors, Southwest France ... 11.50/123.00 Reg. 14.99
Prior to its rediscovery in the early 1970s by Georges Vigouroux, the Château de Haute-Serre was abandoned and left fallow after the phylloxera devastated the region at the end of the 19th century. Old records show that this estate had once been one of Cahors’ finest and an ideal site to plant the favored Malbec grape. Opaque black-plum in the glass, the Cahors segues to a perfumed nose featuring notes of plums, figs, licorice and violets. Bright, impressively light on the palate, and crafted to be accessible at an early age, the Lafleur de Haute-Serre alternates Malbec’s dark, herbal cassis fruit with a touch of Merlot’s plum and chocolate tones. Tannins sneak in at the end of the wine’s palate impression and serve to segue the wine to a long licorice and bitter chocolate finish. Deep and bold, yet very elegant and drinkable, Lafleur de Haute-Serre’s Cahors is a great choice as a winter-warmer red and a natural partner to roast beef, burgers, braised rabbit, goose and baked eggplant recipes. Enjoy now and over the coming seven years.

2007 Domaine Sorin, Côtes de Provence, Rouge, Cuvée Tradition, Provence, France ... 9.50/101.50
Reg. 11.50
The Domaine Sorin fashions deep, lusty wines that exemplify the sun-drenched beauty of Provence. Based on a classic Provençal blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre, Sorin’s inky, black plum-colored rouge casts aromas of black plums, dried herbs, smoke and leather. Plump and lush on the palate, Sorin’s Cuvée Tradition balances ripe black cherry fruit with a smoky soil undercurrent and a generous helping of southern French garrigue. Firm tannins emerge on the back-palate and propel the wine to a long finish featuring hints of herbs, ripe plums, dark chocolate, old saddle leather and dusty earth. Here is a great value red that will bring a ray of Provençal sunshine to your table over the coming cool months. Pair now and over the next two years with classic Provençal recipes featuring eggplant, lamb, herbes de Provence, anchovies, garlic and olive oil.

2009 Les Capucins, Côteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ... 9.50/101.50
The Côteaux du Languedoc produces some of France’s heartiest and best-value red wines. For the second vintage in a row, we’re pleased to present this delicious rendition from Les Capucins, which captures the essence of this rugged region at an amazingly affordable price. Deep black-plum in color, the Capucins Côteaux du Languedoc opens with bright aromas of Provençal cherries, tobacco, blood orange and an intriguing citrus blossom floral note. Very lively on the palate, with a bright acid backbone lifting the Capucins’ sweet cherry fruit, the wine adds complexity with classic Languedoc notes of tar, bay leaf, dried oregano and lavender. Filled with southern charm and satisfying way above its price tag, the Capucins finishes long and clean with balancing acid and fine framing tannins. Enjoy now and over the coming three years with just about anything that doesn’t make water its habitat. Incredible value!

ITALY – RED

2009 Roagna, Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy ... 15.99/171.00
Bastions of traditional winemaking in the Piemonte, the Roagna family farms its fruit and vinifies its wines in the same manner as in the mid-1800s when the winery was founded. Roagna’s 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba, from vines situated in Barbaresco’s hallowed Pajè cru, exemplifies the traditional styling of the Dolcetto grape as expressed through the warmth of the 2009 vintage. A limpid ruby color in the glass, the ’09 Dolcetto casts aromas of sun-warmed cherries, plums, cinnamon and dusty earth. Suave on the attack, the wine tightens mid-palate to reveal plentiful tannins thanks to its long maceration on the skins. Hints of bay leaf, violets, tobacco and walnuts emerge amid the traditional structure. The wine finishes tangy and tannic, with an appetizing stemmy herbal streak adding complexity to the wine’s core of deep cherry fruit. This is as traditional and uncompromising a Dolcetto as we’ve tasted in a long time. Incredibly versatile, it will complement everything but acidic vegetables and seafood, but it will be most at home with traditional Piemontese meat, pasta and risotto preparations. Enjoy now and over the coming decade. Superb Dolcetto!

2009 Franco Serra, Langhe, Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy ... 12.50/133.50
Hot on the heels of September’s super-successful Franco Serra Barbera offering, we are thrilled to present the estate’s newly released Langhe Nebbiolo. Serra’s Langhe Nebbiolo opens with aromas of pie cherries, wintergreen and dusty limestone earth. Initially plump on the attack with sappy cherry fruit, the wine quickly reveals its firm tannic core and complex suggestions of plums, leather, blonde tobacco, dried rose petals and camphor. Fresh yet firm with authentic, traditional Nebbiolo tannins, the wine finishes long and complex far beyond its reasonable tariff. This is the real deal, folks: baby Barbaresco with no oak obfuscation for under $15. Enjoy now and over the coming three years with tajarin with a butter sage sauce, beef brasato, risotto, semi-firm and firm cheeses. Heck, at this price you can even serve it with burgers and pizza! This is an outrageous deal on authentic, traditionally-styled Langhe Nebbiolo. Order your case now—your only regret will be not ordering a second.

WHITE WINES

OREGON – WHITE

2010 Matello, Pinot Gris, Whistling Ridge Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon ... 14.99/160.00
While the Italian word “matello” may translate in English to “little fool,” winemaker Marcus Goodfellow has the magician’s touch with Oregon’s white varietals. The 2010 Whistling Ridge Pinot Gris is even more crisp, refreshing and aromatically “Alsatian” than Matello’s terrific (and long sold-out) 2009 rendition. Brilliant pale straw-gold in the glass, Matello’s Pinot Gris opens with a lively nose of sappy walnuts, Comice pear and dusty minerality. Crisp and crackling on the palate, the Gris asserts a sense of purity and precision rare for this often obtuse varietal. Suggestions of beeswax, green melon and white peach grace the palate before racy acidity and firm minerality usher the wine to its long, harmonious finish. This is another brilliant effort from one of Oregon’s rising stars. With only 224 cases made, call early to reserve your stash and enjoy this beauty over the next three years with sautéed halibut, grilled salmon, seasonal squashes and light poultry preparations. Very limited.

FRANCE – WHITE

2009 Domaine des Forges, Chardonnay, Anjou, Loire Valley, France ... 10.50/112.50
Here’s the stump-the-chump wine of the newsletter, a wine where terroir trumps the varietal. Any self-respecting Loire Valley geek is going to blurt out, “Chenin!” But it’s not, it’s Chardonnay. Chardonnay is permitted in the Anjou only as a minor blending varietal, which is why the wine must depict the humble Vin de Pays designation. But this is like no other Chardonnay in the world! It is fragrant with white flowers and assertive minerality. It is bone dry and incisive, much like its sibling to the west, Muscadet. It has the mid-palate richness of a great white Burgundy. Think of it as a Chablis grown on schist. Because of its idiosyncratic nature, intense minerality and utter uniqueness, we love this wine. We encourage you come in and taste this little wonder from the center of the Loire. We think you’ll find it a superb compliment over the coming twelve months to oysters, scallops, mussels, sole, trout, sautéed green leafy vegetables, white-sauced pastas and light vegetarian fare.

2010 Domaine Giachino, Roussette de Savoie, Altesse, Jura-Savoie, France ... 14.99/160.00 Reg. 17.99
In the cool sub-Alpine climate of the Savoie, the Roussette grape gains exceptional crispness, vivacity and beguiling floral aromas. Giachino’s Altesse, from the exceptionally delicious 2010 vintage, casts dazzling aromas of Comice pears, green melon and beeswax from the glass. Crisp, focused and refreshing on the palate, Giachino’s Altesse adds notes of sweet fennel bulb, white grapefruit, and smoky limestone minerals. Vivid, vivacious, bristling with food-friendly acidity and stunningly refreshing, it’s hard to decide whether one should simply enjoy this wonder by itself or to pair it with delicate white-fleshed fish dishes, young Comté cheeses, simple roast chicken and light zucchini frittatas. At its reduced price this month, you can enjoy it any way you wish. Giachino’s Roussette will electrify you with its freshness and its verve. Enjoy it fresh and cool, but not too cold in its youth, or give it a couple of years in your cellar to allow the wine to gain honeyed complexity and allow its nascent waxy texture to develop.

2010 Domaine Pascal Berthier, Mâcon-Chaintré, Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy, France ... 16.99/181.50
Mark our words: the 2010 Burgundy vintage is stunning. Superb ripeness and high acid levels partnered to make the harvest the latest hot topic amongst Burgundy insiders. Allow this 2010 Mâcon-Chaintré from Pascal Berthier to be your introduction to the wonders of this exceptional vintage. Berthier fashions Chardonnays of great elegance and purity. A lovely lemon-gold color in the glass, Berthier’s Mâcon-Chaintré opens with scents of raw hazelnuts, lemon curd and perfumed limestone. On the palate the Mâcon-Chaintré reveals the deep, concentrated fruit of the vintage alongside head-spinning acidity and a persistent undercurrent of limestone minerality. At once juicy with lemony fruit and focused with bracing acidity, Berthier’s Mâcon-Chaintré beautifully captures the richness of a fine Mâcon Chardonnay with the kind of precision and detail found more often in the Côte de Beaune. Enjoy now and over the next five years with richer fish preparations, light poultry dishes, fresh cheeses, and vegetarian lasagna.

HUNGARY – WHITE

2009 Királyudvar, Tokaji Furmint Sec, Tokaji, Hungary ... 18.99/203.00
Anthony Hwang, co-owner of Domaine Huet in Vouvray, also owns Királyudvar (pronounced kee-rye-oohd-var), the crown jewel estate of Hungary’s legendary Tokaji region. Királyudvar’s 2009 Tokaji Furmint Sec is sensational. A brilliant lemon-gold color in the glass, Királyudvar’s Furmint Sec opens to reveal the bee pollen and white meadow flower aromas so often found in Huet’s dry wines. Juicy and generous on the attack, Furmint’s bright acidity soon comes to the fore and elevates the wine’s latent smoky soil notes. Lemony fruit follows through to the wine’s long, waxy, yet totally clean finish. This wine will pair similar to the wines of Vouvray, as well as partnering with more assertive Hungarian fare. Stunning wine and a must try!

ITALY – WHITE

2010 Azienda Vitivinicola Ciù Ciù, Le Merlettaie, Offida Pecorino, Marche, Italy ... 14.99/160.00
Offida is a wine appellation in the northern part of the Marche region of Italy. The appellation covers a number of sub-appellations including a white made from the Pecorino grape, called appropriately Offida Pecorino. This 100% Pecorino wonder opens with a limpid straw-gold color and aromas of hawthorn blossoms, acacia and muskmelon. Bracing on the attack, the wine’s impressive acidic spine supports a fleshy core of melon, pear and quince. Hints of vanilla bean and delicate clay minerality emerge and add complexity as the wine segues to its long floral, perfumed finish. Drink this aromatic beauty from the rustic hills of the Marche young to capture all the wine’s delicate floral nuances and appetizing aromatic fruit expressions. Pair now and over the coming eighteen months with prawns, langoustines, fish soups, seafood pastas, and vegetable frittatas.

SPARKLING WINES

NV Vincent Girault, Clos de la Briderie, Crémant de Loire, Pureté de Silex, Brut, Loire Valley, France ... 14.99/160.00 Reg. 16.99
To begin our annual holiday trio, Vincent Girault’s Pureté de Silex – from silica-rich soils in the Touraine-Mesland sector of the Loire – offers an amazingly delicious, complex and creamy mouthful of wine. Biodynamically farmed, hand-harvested and fermented on indigenous yeasts, this sparkler shows a sense of purity, character and harmony rare at this price point. Perfect for holiday toasts and celebrations, the Pureté de Silex is also quite versatile at the table, so be sure to try it with your Thanksgiving turkey with all the trimmings.

2005 Domaine Huet, Vouvray, Pétillant, Brut, Loire Valley, France ... 26.99/288.50
The Domaine Huet is the undisputed king in Vouvray. Known primarily for its incredible dry, off-dry and dessert wines, Huet also fashions a superb pétillant (sparkling wine) of extraordinary finesse, complexity and age-ability. 2005 was a phenomenal vintage for Vouvray, and Huet’s Pétillant casts pure, shining aromas of golden delicious apples, honeycomb, bee pollen and yellow tuffeau minerality. This is our choice as the finest sparkling wine outside of Champagne proper. Prepare to be amazed!

NV A. Margaine, Le Brut, Premier Cru, Villers-Marmery, Champagne, France ... 39.99/427.00
Based in the Pinot Noir-rich Montagne de Reims subregion, Margaine’s Brut Premier Cru is a remarkable 88% Chardonnay, and shows beautifully the extra precision and refinement that the difficult Chardonnay brings to Champagne’s wines. Thanks to a large portion of reserve wines in the blend, the racy chalkiness of the younger wines is balanced by lemon curd and buttery brioche richness imparted by the older wines. A great choice for the Thanksgiving table and throughout the holidays…and all year long!
–A Terry Theise selection

WEB-EXTRAS: Read the reviews online

2009 Olivier Cousin, Pur Breton, Anjou, Loire Valley, France ... 18.99/203.00 Reg. 22.99

2010 Apaltagua, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Apalta Valley, Colchagua, Chile ... 10.50/112.50

2009 Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, France ... 20.99/224.50

2009 Domaine de la Louvetrie, Muscadet, Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, Hermine d’Or,
Loire Valley, France ... 12.99/139.00

This symbol indicates a naturally farmed wine.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail

HOURS: Mon.-Sat.
10 a.m -6 p.m.

CLOSED: Thanksgiving Day, Thurs. Nov. 24

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

Nov. 4 Forget about Beaujolais Nouveau! Taste the real deal: Beaujolais from those great producers who have kept alive the tradition of beautiful, age-worthy wines from southern Burgundy.

Nov. 18 The spotlight is on Bordeaux.

Dec. 2 Our Semi-Annual Champagne Blowout! Bring your party hats.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee

Nov. 5 From Oregon: Broadley Vineyards Pinot Noir, Cameron Reserve Pinot Noir, and Matello Pinot Gris. Plus: Dom. Giachino Roussette de Savoie, Dom. Pascal Berthier Mâcon-Chaintré, Dom. des Forges Chardonnay Anjou, and Apaltagua Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva.

Nov. 12 Tutti Italia: Pamela Lenzi from Fattoria Petroio in Tuscany will be here. Plus, other Italian beauties: Ciù Ciù Le Merlettaie Offida Pecorino, Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba, and Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo.

Nov.19 The good folks from Galaxy will pour a sparkling selection of superlative bubblies! Plus, we pour a selection of French goodness: Lucien Lardy Fleurie Les Roches, Boisard Dom. du Mortier St. Nicolas de Bourgueil, Ch. Lafleur de Haute-Serre Malbec, and Peybonhomme les Tours Premières Côtes de Blaye.

Nov. 26 A trio of holiday bubblies: Vincent Girault Clos de la Briderie Crémant de Loire, Dom. Huet Vouvray Pétillant, and Margaine Le Brut Premier Cru Champagne. Plus: Királyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec, Olivier Cousin Pur Breton Anjou, J. Drouhin Chorey-lès-Beaune, and Les Capucins Côteaux du Languedoc.

SPECIAL EVENT
THIS MONTH:

Louis Dressner
Tasting Event at L&E
Tuesday, Nov. 15
6:15-7:30

Please join us and the folks from PDX Wine for a tasting of the wines from the great Louis Dressner portfolio. The Louis Dressner wines are among the finest wines imported from France, so be prepared to be dazzled. No reservations needed. Tasting fee: $15.

Thanksgiving Day best wishes from the staff at Liner & Elsen