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FEBRUARY 2012 NEWSLETTER

 

RED WINES

OREGON – RED

2010 Matello, Pinot Noir, Cuvée Lazarus, Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
We adore Marcus Goodfellow’s hands-off, non-interventionist approach to winemaking. And we are delighted to feature another of his limited-release wines: the brand-new Cuvée Lazarus Pinot Noir. Lazarus is Matello’s designation for their first-release Pinot, a wine specifically fashioned for bright fruit and immediate appeal. Matello’s 2010 Lazarus opens with a brilliant garnet robe and high-toned aromas of spicy raspberries, blood oranges and earthy cranberries. Bright red fruits grace the palate alongside smoky soil notes and suggestions of wild yeast complexity. Fine tannins and firm acidity sneak in mid-palate to make the wine’s transparent core of raspberry and cranberry fruit shimmer with electric energy before turning the spotlight to lovely hints of leafy underbrush and white button mushrooms. Another honest-to-goodness winner from Goodfellow, and a fantastic expression of the red-fruit nature of Oregon’s 2010 vintage. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with roast chicken, broiled salmon, potatoes au gratin, pan-seared pork chops, and roast duck.

FRANCE – RED

2010 Domaine Maestracci, Clos Reginu, Vin de Corse Calvi, Corsica, France 14.99/160.00
The granite plateau of Reginu is located in the foothills of Monte Grossu in the northwest sector of Corsica. Here Michel Raoust continues the legacy of his father-in-law, Roger Maestracci, by fashioning honest, true-to-the-soil wines from indigenous Corsican and traditional southern French varietals. Showing a limpid ruby color in the glass, Maestracci’s Clos Reginu fills the room with smoky, granite soil-inflected aromas of cherries, loganberries and fennel. Fresh and zesty on the palate, the wine conveys the tension of the vineyard’s arid high-altitude situation with a saline kiss from its proximity to the nearby Mediterranean Sea. Delicious and refreshing, the Clos Reginu has the drinkability of a bistro carafe wine, but also the utterly unique terroir signature of the island’s special granitic soils. Enjoy this young, served with anything outside of the seafood and acidic vegetable spectra. It is a perfect introduction to the diversity and pleasures of Corsican wine, and a terrific value.

2010 Château Jougrand, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 10.99/117.50
In the center of France’s arid, mountainous Languedoc region lies the subregion of Saint-Chinian. Here deep, aromatic, intense wines are being crafted from traditional southern French varietals. Saint-Chinian’s chief varietal, Carignan, gives this authentic wonder that wild, untamed edge we so love from this region. Saturated black-plum in the glass, Jougrand’s Saint-Chinian opens with wild, herbal, garrigue-driven aromas of juniper, sage, black currants and tar. Bright on the attack, the Jougrand continues the herbal theme on the palate, complicated by suggestions of licorice, dark chocolate, dark roasted coffee and eucalyptus. The wine’s intense fruit and herbal palate presence segues to a long and remarkably refreshing finish featuring reprises of cassis and blackberry fruit wrapped inside layers of herbal garrigue, tar and licorice. Superb, authentic and rustic in all the best ways, this is a soulful winter-warmer rouge that chases away even the chilliest days and proves itself a wonderful complement to hearty braises, stews, grilled and roasted meats, ratatouille, hard cheeses, and game.

2009 Domaine le Roc Fronton, La Folle Noire d’Ambat, Southwest France 13.50/144.50
Situated just north of Toulouse, the wines of Fronton are finally starting to get the recognition they deserve. Their secret ingredient is the Négrette grape, indigenous to Cyprus but most at home on the iron-rich quartz and gravel soils prevalent in this forgotten corner of France. Should you wish to explore what makes the Négrette so special, this naturally-farmed beauty is the perfect introduction. Opaque plum-ruby in the glass, Domaine le Roc’s La Folle Noire is highly perfumed with high notes of violets, blueberries, black cherries and ferrous terroir. Bright and snappy on the palate, the wine reveals notes of cinnamon, clove, star anise and a welcome undertone of French funk. Fresh, long and soil-driven, the wine finishes with utterly unique expressions of violets, mushrooms, musk and earth. Enjoy this with hearty sausages, charcuterie, lentil dishes, duck confit, and roast poultry. Unique, distinctive, and a “must try” for wine geeks!

2008 Château Clos du Moulin, Médoc, Bordeaux, France 9.50/101.50
2008 is the sneaky good vintage in Bordeaux. While 2009 wows for its power, 2008 enchants with its elegance and balance. This classic 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Clos du Moulin shows why the ’08s are so special. The Clos du Moulin’s beautiful plum color in the glass leads to lovely aromas of black currants, black cherries, cinnamon and gravelly soil. Lush and ample on the attack, the Clos du Moulin tightens mid-palate to reveal old-school Médoc structure and restraint. Hints of chocolate, mocha and spicy, gripping tannins creep in on the wine’s long currant and gravel-inflected finish. This is classically styled Médoc that will bring smiles to those who remember fondly the grace and charm – and prices – of yesteryear’s red Bordeaux. Enjoy now and over the coming decade with game, roast beef, lamb, potatoes au gratin, and hard cheeses.

2010 Domaine du Pas Saint Martin, Saumur, La Pierre Frite, Loire Valley, France 13.50/144.50
In the heart of Saumur, Domaine du Pas Saint Martin produces an impressive and complete portfolio of still and sparkling wines. Their Saumur rouge, La Pierre Frite, is produced from Cabernet Franc organically grown on silica-rich limestone soils, de-stemmed, and fermented in stainless steel with the specific intention of producing wine approachable in its youth while also being expressive of the Saumur’s special terroir. Deep black-plum in color, the wine opens with smoky, leafy, tobacco-tinged cassis fruit complicated by floral top notes. Transparent and terroir-driven on the palate, the Cabernet Franc is merely a conduit for Saumur’s perfumed limestone to take center stage. Fine tannins and brisk acidity appear on the wine’s finish, followed by complex suggestions of violets, tobacco, menthol, tar and smoky earth. This is splendid, authentic Saumur rouge that’s ready to drink now. Serve with everything from burgers to chops to braises to stews.

ITALY – RED

2009 Fattoria La Torre, La Villa, Chianti Colli Senesi, Tuscany, Italy 9.50/101.50
The wines of the Colli Senesi pack a heck of a lot of honest Chianti character for very modest prices. Submitted for your approval: this delicious, affordable selection from Fattoria La Torre. Deep ruby in the glass, the wine bursts with stony, soil-inflected aromas of ripe plums, cherries and leather. Brisk and vibrant in the mouth, notes of bay leaf, beef consommé and button mushrooms accent a sappy core of cherry fruit, while fine tannins and food-friendly acidity keep the exuberant fruit in lovely balance. For under $10, this is the red wine steal of the season and a lovely complement to everyday fare like grilled burgers and steaks, pastas in cream or meat sauces, eggplant parmigiana, skillet fried pork chops, and pizza.

2008 Rapalino, Barbera d’Alba, Pian Romualdo, Piedmont, Italy 14.99/160.00
Since its debut in these pages over a decade ago, Federico Rapalino’s exemplary Barbera is among our customers’ favorite wines and one of the most successful selections in L&E newsletter history. For its newly released Barbera, Rapalino has captured beautifully the aromatic elegance of the Piedmont’s 2008 vintage and the impeccable balance of the hallowed Pian Romualdo vineyard. Rapalino’s opaque, black-ruby colored 2008 Barbera casts an expressive nose of blackberries, plums, leather, cinnamon and licorice. In the mouth the wine’s palate-staining blackberry fruit is complemented by bracing acidity, fine, buffered tannins and lovely touches of leather, menthol and tarry earth. Delicious now with braised beef, oven-roasted root vegetables, egg-rich pastas, or grilled pork, Rapalino’s 2008 Barbera will also cellar well for five to seven years and reveal to the patient the wine’s latent mushroomy, sotto bosco notes.

 


WHITE WINES

FRANCE – WHITE

2010 Michel Quenioux, Domaine de Veilloux, Cheverny, Loire Valley, France 15.99/171.00
Although Cheverny is best known as the finest hunting grounds in France, wine has been grown and made here since the 6th century A.D. By law all Cheverny wines must be a blend of varietals. Veilloux’s Cheverny is based on the upper Loire’s traditional Sauvignon Blanc, complemented by dashes of Menu Pineau and Chardonnay. The Sauvignon, however, dominates this refreshing blend and yields a wine with a crisp, clean bouquet of grapefruit, gooseberries, menthol and flint. On the palate, the Cheverny conveys brisk gooseberry and lime fruit accented by crunchy, salty minerals and an herbal bay leaf top note. Alternating waves of tart green apples, lemon curd and flinty, stony minerals highlight the wine’s long, precise finish. Very versatile with food, Veilloux’s Cheverny will complement roasted pheasant, chicken, freshwater fish dishes, fresh chèvres, and light pork preparations. Drink young and often.

2010 Claude Lafond, Reuilly, Pinot Gris, La Grande Pièce, Loire Valley, France 16.99/181.50
The back label claims that this is a rosé wine, but that assertion is debatable. What is clear is that this is an unusually richly-colored white wine, for, as you probably know, the Pinot Gris is a magenta-colored grape. Regardless of which side you choose – rosé or blanc – this wine is an unqualified winner. A brilliant lemon-gold color in the glass, Lafond’s La Grande Pièce casts classic Pinot Gris aromas of smoke and buttered hazelnuts, but with the sense of lightness, elegance and deftness that only the delicate limestone soils of the upper Loire can produce. On the palate, hints of lemon juice, cranberry and flinty soil are lifted by the wine’s brilliant acidic spine. Buttery brioche, pâté brisée, and lemon-hazelnut scone batter mark the wine’s long rich yet zesty finish. One of the most versatile and delicious Pinot Gris in memory, Oregon Pinot Gris fans and enthusiasts of Loire Valley wines must try this wine. Serve with salmon broiled and topped with hazelnut butter, light pork preparations, light broth fish stews, and medium-aged chèvres.

2009 Domaine du Vieux Pressoir, Saumur Blanc, Elégance, Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
Complementing the Pas Saint Martin Saumur rouge above, Vieux Pressoir’s Chenin Blanc Elégance is grown on similar silica-rich limestone soil that imbues the wine with its smoky soil personality. A lovely green tinted lemon-gold in the glass, the Vieux Pressoir Saumur Blanc opens with aromas of acacia blossoms, pear, honeydew melon and perfumed soil. Brisk and invigorating on the palate, the Elégance – fashioned as a sec tendre – plays rich melon fruit against a tactile, waxy texture and a brilliant acidic spine. This bracing acidity follows onto the wine’s long lemon, melon, and pear-fruited finish, where another blast of Saumur’s smoky limestone terroir asserts itself. Enjoy now and over the coming decade with poached freshwater fishes in a delicate beurre blanc sauce, seafood pastas in a light cream sauce, seafood risotto, spring morels and local asparagus, fresh chèvres, and blanquette de veau.

2010 Vins Auvigue, Mâcon Davayé, Burgundy, France 14.99/160.00
2010 is already being heralded as a classic white Burgundy vintage, one of great soil transparency, brilliant acidity and elegant fruit. These wondrous attributes are exemplified brilliantly by this lovely, juicy Mâcon from Vins Auvigue. Opening with a brilliant straw-gold color, the Macon Davayé conveys a pungent, mineral-assertive nose of buttery lemon fruit and Burgundy’s inimitable limestone goût de terroir. Crisp, clean, and stony on the palate, Vin Auvigue’s Davayé rises far above the average Mâcon with its intensity, richness and lemony limestone goût. Hints of quince, lemon curd and high-toned limestone minerality provide additional complexity on the wine’s long finish, while a lingering suggestion of honeyed melon completes this classy, top-caliber Mâcon. Fans of affordable white Burgundy will delight in this wine, which we suggest serving now or over the next five years with salmon, roast chicken, light pork preparations and halibut.

ITALY – WHITE

2010 Rocca di Tufo, Orvieto, Umbria, Italy 9.50/101.50
Tuffeau (tufo) is the calcareous soil of the Orvieto DOC and the inspiration for this delicious, aromatic offering from winemaker Giovanni Dubini. A classic Orvieto blend of seven organically grown grapes, including Grechetto, Procanico and Verdello, Dubini brilliantly captures the floral, aromatic and mineral essence of what makes Orvieto one of our favorite Italian white wines. A lovely pale green-gold color in the glass, Rocca di Tufo’s Orvieto opens with aromas of star fruit, honeydew melon, straw and chalky minerals. Brisk and racy on the palate, the wine conveys suggestions of green apples, lime, grapefruit and hay, all underpinned by a flinty, perfumed tufo soil signature. Sappy and fresh on the finish, the wine segues to a tropical fruit theme with suggestions of pineapple and papaya alongside herbal notes of camphor and basil. A delicious, unusually complex and most affordable Orvieto, the Rocca di Tufo will pair wonderfully with all things seafood as well as white pasta dishes, sautéed green vegetables, fresh cheeses and light chicken recipes. Enjoy now and over the coming year.

2010 Tenuta Olim Bauda, Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 15.99/171.00
The Piedmont is home to the gorgeous Gavi, made from the indigenous Cortese grape. Olim Bauda’s 2010 Gavi di Gavi, from the historical and superior zone immediately around the town of Gavi, begins with a brilliant lemon-gold color and aromas of lemon juice, nettles and aromatic hops. In the mouth, Olim Bauda’s Gavi attacks first with crisp, juicy citrus fruit, and then broadens mid-palate to offer notes of yellow plums, chamomile, savory vegetable broth and young, sappy pine buds. The wine finishes crisp and lip-smacking with suggestions of juicy citrus and a complex touch of almond skin, which give the wine a splendid tactile grip and pleasant, food-friendly bitterness. Drink this aromatically compelling Gavi young to capture its freshness, crispness and zip. Enjoy with golden trout, snapper, soups, vegetarian frittatas, summer squashes, clams, and halibut.

2009 Feudi di San Gregorio, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, Campania, Italy 12.99/139.00
Deep in the south of Italy lie the great Mount Vesuvius and the revitalized wine region of Campania. On Vesuvius’s minerally volcanic soils, the ancient Coda di Volpe (tail of the wolf) varietal reaches its apogee and forms the foundation of the historical Lacryma Christi bianco. A traditional blend of 80% Coda di Volpe and 20% Falanghina, Feudi’s Lacryma Christi casts a beautiful limpid lemon-gold hue from the bowl. Bright aromas of peaches, white flowers, and melon yield to a zesty palate of bitter oranges, musky flowers and smoky volcanic minerals. These smoky minerals blossom and continue on the wine’s long, clean finish followed by lingering suggestions of sappy almonds and waxy pine nuts. This is a natural pair for shellfish and squid pasta dishes, sushi, sautéed squashes, antipasti, and grilled whole fish.


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LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail

HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10-6
CLOSED: Sunday


THIS MONTH'S WINES:

RED WINES:
2010 Matello, Pinot Noir, Cuvée Lazarus
2010 Dom. Maestracci, Clos Reginu, Vin de Corse Calvi, Corsica
2010 Ch. Jougrand, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon
2009 Dom. le Roc Fronton, La Folle Noire d’Ambat
2008 Ch. Clos du Moulin, Médoc
2010 Dom. du Pas Saint Martin, Saumur, La Pierre Frite
2009 Fattoria La Torre, La Villa, Chianti Colli Senesi
2008 Rapalino, Barbera d’Alba, Pian Romualdo

WHITE WINES:
2010 Michel Quenioux, Dom. de Veilloux, Cheverny
2010 Claude Lafond, Reuilly, Pinot Gris, La Grande Pièce
2009 Dom. du Vieux Pressoir, Saumur Blanc, Elégance
2010 Vins Auvigue, Mâcon Davayé
2010 Rocca di Tufo, Orvieto
2010 Tenuta Olim Bauda, Gavi di Gavi
2009 Feudi di San Gregorio, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio


FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

Feb. 3 Spain on Parade: Four decades of Riojas!

Feb. 17 The first of the highly touted 2009 Bordeaux have arrived. Taste what the hullabaloo is about.

March 2 Beautiful Brunellos and Rossos from Montalcino.


SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee

Feb. 4 From France: Dom. de Veilloux Cheverny, Dom. du Pas Saint Martin Saumur Blanc, Dom. Maestracci Clos Reginu Vin de Corse, and Dom. le Roc Fronton La Folle Noire d’Ambat.

Feb. 11 Tim Rippa from Vinum Wines will pour Dom. du Vieux Pressoir Saumur Blanc Elégance, Claude Lafond Reuilly Pinot Gris, Ch. Clos du Moulin Bordeaux, plus other fine Vinum selections.

Feb. 18 Taste great Piedmontese wines with Gianni Bauda from Tenuta Olim Bauda. Plus: Vins Auvigue Mâcon Davayé, Ch. Jougrand Saint-Chinian, and Matello Pinot Noir.

Feb. 25 From Italy: Rocca di Tufo Orvieto, Feudi di San Gregorio Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, Fattoria La Torre Chianti, and Rapalino Barbera d’Alba Pian Romualdo.


SPECIAL EVENTS AT L&E:

Port Tasting with Rupert Symington of Symington Family Estates
New Date: MON. Feb. 6, 6:15-7:30 p.m.

After a five-year absence from Portland, Rupert Symington, managing joint director of Symington Family Estates, will join us for a Port tasting. The Symington Family Estates portfolio includes Ports from Graham's, Dow's, Smith Woodhouse, Quinta do Vesuvio, and Cockburn's. The full menu of wines to be served will be on our website in January. Fee: $45 per person. Pre-payment confirms your reservation. Seating is limited.

A Tasting of Wines of Rosenthal Wine Merchant
Tues. Feb. 7, 6:15-7:30 p.m.

Please join for us for a tasting of great wines from Neal Rosenthal, with Ben Anderson as our host. Very few, if any, importers can match the brilliance of the wines that are in this great catalog of wines.
Glass fee: $10. No reservations needed.

A Taste of Burgundy with Luc Bouchard of Bouchard Père & Fils
Tues. Feb. 21, 6:30-7:30 p.m.
Glass fee $20. No reservations needed.

Bordeaux Wine Tasting
Thurs. March 1, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
Join us for a Bordeaux wine tasting with Jean Christophe Calvet, owner of Aquitaine Wine Company. He is the sixth generation to be involved in the Bordeaux wine business, working with classified growths as well as petite chateau. Fee: $10. No reservations needed.


WINE DINNER:

Domaine Drouhin Oregon vs. Maison Joseph Drouhin: A Dinner with Laurent Drouhin at the Heathman
Weds., March 7, 6:30 pm.

France meets Oregon - in the hands of great winemakers!

Join us for a unique special tasting and dinner featuring an array of wines from Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Maison Joseph Drouhin. The paired menu will be crafted by James Beard Award winning chef Philippe Boulot. Our special guest will be Laurent Drouhin.

The fee for this event is $175 per person. Seating is limited for this very special event. Please contact the Heathman Restaurant for reservations. 503-790-7752.

WINE DISCUSSION AND TASTINGS:

Austrian Wine Seminars with Brian Martin of Galaxy Wines
Wed. Feb. 15 and Feb. 22, 6:30 p.m.


Please join us for a two-part seminar on the great wines of Austria, hosted by Brian Martin of Galaxy Wines. Brian will lead us through a discussion and tasting of these world-class wines and their vineyards. The seminar will focus primarily on the wines from the Kamptal and the Wachau, and feature the finest producers from these areas. Find out what makes these wines so brilliant!

Fee per person: $40 (one night), $75 (both nights). Pre-payment confirms your reservation. Seating is limited.


Simply call or e-mail to order any of the wines you see here

2222 NW Quimby St. (off 22nd Ave.) Portland, OR 97210
503-241-WINE (9463) 800-903-WINE (9463)   e-mail
HOURS: Mon.-Sat. 10am-6pm


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