SEPTEMBER 2010 NEWSLETTER

RED WINES

OREGON / WASHINGTON – RED

2007 Claar Cellars, Cabernet-Merlot, White Bluffs, Columbia Valley, Washington 11.50/123.00
Planted in 1980, the Claar family’s pioneering vineyard is situated in the White Bluffs sector of Columbia Valley. After selling their fruit to award-winning wineries throughout the U.S., the family decided to make and bottle their own wine beginning with the 1997 vintage. The unique micro-climate of the White Bluffs and the Claar family’s superior vineyard stewardship make this unusually accessible and affordable Cabernet-Merlot blend a real standout among its Columbia Valley peers. The wine’s Cabernet core shows textbook cassis fruit and cedar hints complemented by Merlot’s plum and chocolate accents. Complex suggestions of cedar shavings, dried herbs, cocoa and toffee highlight the wine’s unusually bright and transparent kernel of cherry, plum and cassis fruit. Fine tannins creep into the finish, framing the wine’s high-toned red fruit expression. The result is one of the most deliciously drinkable and food versatile Washington Cabernet blends in memory. Enjoy this affordable wonder now and over the coming three years with burgers, steaks, lamb, grilled eggplant and braised pork.

2009 Owen Roe, Abbot’s Table, Columbia Valley Red Wine 19.99/213.50
We eagerly await each year’s release of the Abbot’s Table, David O’Reilly’s most popular wine and one of our most requested selections. Few wines from anywhere in the world offer the Abbot’s Table’s potent mix of richness, intensity and impact for such a modest price tag. The newly released 2009 red continues this unbroken streak of success with an opaque black plum color and aromas of spicy boysenberries, figs, black licorice, toffee and wood spice. The Abbot’s broad spectrum of flavors bursts like fireworks the moment the wine hits the palate. Spicy suggestions of cinnamon, cloves, pepper and camphor mingle with earthy notes of tar and leather alongside a dark fruit core of sweet plums, brambly blackberries, cassis and black cherries. Finishing notes of vanilla, licorice, smoke and caramel add complexity to a wine already bursting with personality. Thanks to its amazing richness, complexity and velvety texture, this year’s Abbot’s Table’s is another winner. Pair with grilled burgers, steaks, lamb chops and other hearty fare. Drink now or over the next two years.

2008 Lange Estate Winery, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 18.99/203.00
Spotlighting the outstanding balance and superb terroir expression that marks the Willamette Valley’s finest 2008 Pinots, Lange’s so-called entry level release offers silky Burgundian texture and earthy terroir signature inside a solid core of classic cranberry and loganberry fruit. Writing for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Jay Miller concurs: "[Lange’s] 2008 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley provides an early look at just how good this vintage is. Very expressive aromatically with aromas of cherry, raspberry, and rose petal, on the palate this medium-bodied wine has layered succulent fruit, superb balance, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. It has enough structure to evolve for several years but will provide plenty of immediate gratification." We think the 2008 Lange is a classically styled Willamette Valley Pinot, and we encourage you to buy a case for enjoyment now and another to cellar over the coming three years. Serve with braised duck, roast chicken, cedar-plank salmon, grilled summer squashes and roast pork preparations.
Wine Advocate—90 points; Best Value

FRANCE – RED

2009 Domaine du Cros-Philippe Teulier, Marcillac, Lo Sang del Païs, Southwest France 12.99/139.00
Marcillac, an isolated region located east of Cahors in France’s Massif Central, is home to the wonderfully obscure grape Fer Servadou (or Mansois in local dialect). The Domaine du Cros is Marcillac’s largest independent producer, crafting the region’s finest wines exclusively from fifty- to eighty-year-old Fer Servadou vines. We’ve featured this wine twice before to rave reviews and repeat orders, but nothing could prepare us for the brand new, brilliant and oh-so-satisfying 2009 rendition! Opaque plum-ruby in the glass, Domaine du Cros 2009 Marcillac casts aromas of loamy earth, black currants, menthol and underbrush. High-toned, transparent, yet saturated with pure cassis fruit, the wine transitions from its complex bouquet to a brisk palate marked by notes of eucalyptus, tree bark, cinnamon, cherries and deep iron and limestone minerality. Framing tannins and brisk acidity propel the wine to its long, distinctive, soil-driven finish. Aged in large, old chestnut and oak foudres, the wine shows the minimalist touch of M. Teulier, who has tamed the Fer Servadou’s sauvagerie without sacrificing its rustic distinctiveness. Enjoy this beauty of a country wine now and over the next five years with sausages, burgers, grilled hanger steaks, grilled vegetables, and cassoulet.

2009 Chantal & Philippe Mur, Basté, Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan, Southwestern France 11.50/123.00
The Comté Tolosan encompasses a large sector of Southwestern France. Based in Moncaup, near France’s border with Spain, the Murs blend the noble Bordeaux varietals Merlot and Cabernet Franc with Madiran’s signature grape Tannat. This creative mix yields a bright, character-filled red that’s just the ticket for the coming autumnal months. Opaque plum in the glass, the Basté bursts with fresh plum, cherry and cassis fruit spiced with cinnamon, leather and hints of limestone earth. Round and lively on the palate, the wine’s plump fruit is balanced by plentiful, food-friendly tannins and an earthy undertone that gives the wine that special French “je ne sais quoi.” Long and remarkably refreshing for such a deep red, the Basté beautifully conveys its origins and never tries to be more than it is: a delicious, food-friendly and versatile red that wants to be drunk rather than pondered. This is our kind of cool-weather rouge, and we encourage you to buy a case to enjoy over the fall, winter and spring with just about anything that doesn’t swim or make its habitat in water.

2009 Domaine des Échardières, Le Bécassou, Touraine, Loire Valley, France 10.50/112.50
Just as the Basté above gloriously conveys its southwestern French origins, this lovely, sustainably-farmed blend of Gamay (60%) and Cabernet Franc (40%) from Domaine des Échardières effortlessly expresses the transparent majesty of the central Loire Valley. The fusion of berry-fruited Gamay with herb and cherry scented Cabernet Franc with the inimitable clay and limestone terroir of the Touraine make for the value-play red of the newsletter. Limpid ruby colored and loaded with freshly-crushed cherry and raspberry fruit, Échardières’ Bécassou bursts with freshness and drinkability. Complementing the wine’s unbridled fruit expression is the glorious soil signature that immediately takes one to the central Loire Valley. The combination of Luc Poullain’s careful viticulture and the Touraine’s special terroir make for a wine that will work superbly as a late summer and early fall red. It will also make a terrific Thanksgiving wine for those thinking that far in advance, so grab a case and enjoy throughout the coming two years with fresh chèvres, roast chicken, pork chops, blanquette de veau, and dishes featuring chanterelle mushrooms.

2007 Burle, Vacqueyras, Southern Rhône Valley, France 15.99/171.00 reg. 17.99
As savvy wine lovers know, the wine world is abuzz over the incredible 2007 vintage in the Southern Rhône. And, as longtime Southern Rhône aficionados know, Burle’s wines offer notable character, boldness and authenticity for their modest prices. The combination makes this selection the proverbial no-brainer. Burle’s 2007 Vacqueyras highlights the richness, intensity and accessibility of the vintage with the rustic, southern warmth that defines the very best Vacqueyras. The densely colored ’07 Vacqueyras opens with a bouquet filled with notes of licorice, kirsch, dark-roasted coffee beans, plums, tar and garrigue. The wine then transitions to deep, soulful expressions of ripe figs, blackberries and black cherries framed by searing, old-school tannins and haunting, lingering notes of eucalyptus, black pepper and juniper. Tarry fruit, black licorice, menthol, juniper and cloves mark the wine’s long, palate-staining finish. Enjoy now or over the coming fifteen years with roast leg of lamb, ratatouille, and recipes favoring rosemary and fresh garlic. This is reference-standard and a superb value!

2005 Château Miraval, Côtes de Provence Rouge, Provence, France 18.99/203.00
To complete our “Tour de France Rouge,” we take you to beautiful, sunny Provence. Where the Cros Marcillac evokes the rugged wilderness of the Pyrénees, and the Échardières Le Bécassou conjures the pale mustard-colored limestone châteaux of the Touraine, Miraval’s Côtes de Provence rouge leaves no doubt about its Provençal origins. Opaque black cherry in color, Miraval’s rouge bursts with aromas of sun-warmed cherries, oil-cured black olives and southern French garrigue. A blend of organically grown Syrah (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), the wine continues with a lushly textured fore-palate filled with cassis, plum and dark cherry fruit. Just as the wine’s fruit expression saturates the palate, its rugged Provençal origins come to the fore with complex suggestions of sappy sage, leather, black olives and black truffles. Hints of the Cabernet’s cedary edge and well-buffered oak notes transition the wine to its long, earthy, leathery, juniper-tinged finish. This lusty red calls for cool weather and hearty cuisine: rosemary-scented lamb, ratatouille and rustic eggplant dishes come immediately to mind. Enjoy now and over the coming decade.

2007 Château Jouclary, Cuvée Tradition, Cabardès, France 10.50/112.50
Cabardès, located in southwestern France just north of Carcassonne, has unique laws that reflect the Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic patterns that converge on the appellation. In the brilliant 2007 vintage, Jouclary’s classic Cabardès shows vividly how each of the three regional varietals – Merlot, Syrah and Grenache – stands out individually, and then how they come together to compose the whole. The dominant Merlot component gives pure plum fruit with just hint of chocolate in the background. The Grenache adds brown spices wrapped around a juicy kirsch core. Finally, the majestic Syrah adds a leathery baritone note and just a touch of welcome earthiness. Inside all this is an appetizing undercurrent of stony terroir and complex suggestions of cloves, game, bay leaf and licorice. Jouclary shines again with another fascinating, distinctive rouge that’s sure to please fans of intense, rustic French reds. Pair this esoteric yet accessible wine with hearty roast of beef, lamb, pork, cassoulet, and other rich and savory cool weather fare.

ITALY – RED

2008 Odino Vaona, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, Italy 9.50/101.50
This is the fourth vintage in a row that we’ve featured Vaona’s delicious, authentic and affordable Valpolicella. In the past three years we’ve sold every last bottle our supplier could allocate us, and we’ve pleaded for more. Thankfully, Vaona has returned with another gorgeous Valpolicella that reflects the essence of the deeper, more baritone 2008 vintage. Vaona’s 2008 Valpolicella is again gorgeously perfumed, transparent, refreshing and deliciously drinkable, but there’s more stuffing this year: more tannin, more earth, more oomph. A classic blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara from Valpolicella’s esteemed Classico zone, Vaona’s 2008 offers a deep, transparent ruby hue followed by crisp, food-friendly expressions of sour cherries, dried rose petals, perfumed soil, sappy herbs, and crunchy cranberries. Long, lingering and elegant on the finish, the wine reprises with the appetizing earthy red-fruit core that makes it both a joy to drink by itself and also a natural partner for light pasta dishes, semi-firm cheeses and delicate poultry recipes. Pair now or over the coming two years with just about anything that is neither too spicy nor makes its habitat in water. Another smashing success from Vaona!

WHITE WINES

OREGON / WASHINGTON – WHITE

2008 Milbrandt Vineyards, Pinot Gris, Traditions, Columbia Valley, Washington 9.50/101.50
Butch and Jerry Milbrandt planted their first vineyard in 1997. Over the ensuing decade, Milbrandt Vineyards earned a reputation for growing some of Washington State's finest grapes. From the brothers’ coolest vineyard sites comes this crisp and delightful Pinot Gris. Pale straw-gold in the glass, Milbrandt’s Pinot Gris casts aromas of pears, green apples and honeydew melon. In the mouth, the wine is lush with fleshy pear and apple fruit, yet restrained with jolts of food-friendly acidity, hints of almond, cinnamon and pie spice. This is one heck of a juicy, delicious, affordable Pinot Gris that will easily hold its own against esteemed competition from Oregon and Northern Italy. At its price, this beauty is hard to beat. Delicious, affordable and versatile, this wine will pair well now and over the coming year with light port dishes, roast chicken, broiled halibut and green vegetable frittatas.

AUSTRIA – WHITE

2009 Felsner, Grüner Veltliner, Lössterrassen, Kremstal, Austria 10.50/112.50
Over the past decade, Austria’s indigenous Grüner Veltliner grape has become a quite a hit with clients and staff alike. Few if any varietals offer Grüner’s effortless ability to pair with an amazing spectrum of food, from green vegetables to delicate fish preparations to rich poultry. In this early release from the charming and immediately delicious 2009 vintage, Kremstal’s Felsner family estate has captured Grüner’s delicious citrus fruit core, its exotic white pepper spiciness, and its inimitable “green” expressions of pole beans, snap peas and lentils. Pale green-straw gold in the glass, Felsner’s Grüner offers classic citrus aromas of lemon, grapefruit and lime accompanied by complex hints of sautéed lentils and smoky earth. The wine’s ultra-clean, crisp palate continues the wine’s citrus theme, but adds complex suggestions of malted barley, freshly ground white pepper, pineapple and white wildflowers. The wines finishes clean, crisp and extraordinarily well balanced, with white pepper notes playing off a latent undercurrent of saline minerality. Enjoy this superb value Grüner Veltliner now and over the coming three years with just about anything in the vegetable, fish, poultry, and pork spectra.

FRANCE – WHITE

2008 Domaine Jean Vullien et Fils, Vin de Savoie, Chardonnay, Cuvée Prestige, Savoie, France 14.99/160.00
Burgundy from the Savoie? With its depth, length and minerality, Vullien’s Chardonnay is more Chablis-like than most Chablis proper! Pale lemon-gold in color, the Vullien Chardonnay Prestige shouts limestone minerality from the moment it hits your glass. Fresh and inviting, the wine deftly balances Chardonnay’s richness and hazelnut notes with the Savoie’s dark limestone minerality. Chablis-like in weight and texture, the wine projects brilliant acidity, lemony fruit and intense minerality. As the wine transitions from the palate to the finish, its minerality seems to leave a film of fine, dusty dolomite minerals on the palate. This, of course, is the perfect prelude to a plate of briny oysters, oven-roasted mussels or white-fleshed fish in an beurre blanc sauce, or accompanying a cheese course of Tomme de Savoie, mature Gruyère, and other semi-firm cow’s milk cheeses. Last month, we mentioned that the esteemed Revue du Vin de France selected Domaine Jean Vullien as their Coup de Coeur, or favorite domaine, in the Savoie. Between last month’s Montmélian offering from Vullien and this exemplary Chardonnay, it’s easy to taste why.

2008 Château Miraval, Côteaux Varois en Provence, Blanc, Clara Lua, Provence, France 15.99/171.00
One of the staff’s not-so-guilty pleasures is the underrated and underappreciated white wines of Southern France. While everyone waits for Parker’s ratings on red Chateauneuf-du-Papes, we wait for our distributors to mete out their tiny allocations of the best estates’ white wines. The same goes for Provence: we love and enjoy the tiny amount of white wine issued from Bandol, Cassis and the Côtes de Provence. Château Miraval’s Provençal beauty is fashioned from Rolle, a.k.a. Vermentino. In the right hands, this versatile, late-ripening grape reveals a true harmony, complexity and sense of place when planted in the right sites. And the Provençal hillsides are one of finest. Pale straw gold with green glints, Miraval’s Provence blanc shows lovely aromas of Comice pear, honeydew melon, Meyer lemon and bergamot. Rich in the mouth with superb texture, energy and grip, Miraval’s blanc is at once waxy and layered, yet never heavy or weighty. The Rolle’s waxy nature is countered by lemony acidity and a tactile, even tannic, grip. The result gives a clean, fresh and ultimately delicious impression. Enjoy this terrific and under-priced Provençal blanc now and over the coming five years with clams, mussels, sea snails, squid, tuna, swordfish and the entire seafood spectrum. It will also be a super foil for summer squash, eggplant and potato-based vegetarian preparations.

ITALY – WHITE

2009 Barberani, Orvieto Classico, Secco, Vallesanta, Umbria, Italy 11.50/123.00
Orvieto, one of Umbria’s most celebrated white wines, is at its best when made from fruit grown on the calcareous “tuffeau” soils in its Classico zone. Fashioned from a traditional blend of Procanico, Grechetto, Verdello, Drupeggio and Malvasia, this elegant Umbrian bianco is refreshingly dry and deliciously aromatic. A lovely pale straw color in the glass, the Orvieto opens with aromas of lime zest, straw, crushed limestone and sweet white tea. Brisk and zippy on the palate, the wine conveys notes of freshly squeezed lemon juice, Bartlett pears, green apples and smoky minerals. On the finish, the Orvieto is long, dry and persistent, adding notes of bitter almond skin and sweet basil. Try this textbook Orvieto – from a superb vintage and one of Orvieto’s finest estates – now to capture all of its youthful charm, and serve with shellfish, freshwater fish dishes, light poultry preparations and light vegetarian fare.

2009 Marotti Campi, Luzano, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, Marches, Italy 11.99/128.00
Verdicchio is central Italy’s most distinctive white varietal. It reaches its greatest heights in the mineral-rich soils of the Castelli di Jesi zone just miles from the Adriatic Sea. A frequent feature in these pages, Marotti Campi’s Luzano Verdicchio is an absolute classic. The Luzano Verdicchio opens with a straw gold color and crisp aromas of acacia blossoms, sweet meadow flowers, snap peas and smoky minerals. On the palate, the wine combines crunchy pear fruit with a riveting acid backbone and a complex, steely mineral expression. Brisk and uncompromisingly dry, the Luzano finishes reprises notes of snap peas, pear fruit and flinty minerals all propelled by the wine’s brilliant acidity. A haunting touch of bitter almond lingers on the palate as you prepare your next bite of roast pork, baked chicken, freshwater fish, and recipes featuring zucchini and squashes. Serve this superb and special Verdicchio now and over the coming three years.

SLOVENIA – WHITE

2008 Quattro Mani / Movia, Tocai, Exto Gredic Vineyard, Dobrovo, Slovenia 8.50/91.00
Quattro Mani ("four hands") showcases celebrated winemakers who believe that the essence of a region can be best expressed through its traditional varietals placed in the hands of skilled artisan winemakers. For Quattro Mani’s Tocai, the winemaker is Aleš Kristancic, the iconoclastic rock star of Slovenia’s Movia estate. This will easily be one of the most distinctive wines you’ll taste all year. Its color is pale gold, and the nose conveys an unusual bouquet of cinnamon, cola, spearmint and pine. The wine broadens to reveal notes of green tea, coriander and kafir lime leaf. On the palate, Kristancic’s crisp and lively Tocai conveys the body of a fine Sauvignon Blanc. This is undoubtedly the attention-grabbing apéritif of the year: if you’re looking for the ultimate wow wine to start your next gathering, there’s no other choice. It will also be a lovely and appropriate complement to the cuisines of Greece, Turkey, Morocco, and (we presume) Slovenia.

SPAIN – WHITE

2007 Muga, Blanco, Rioja, Spain 13.50/144.50 reg. 18.99
In all the years that we’ve been promoting the exemplary wines of the Bodegas Muga, we have never featured the winery’s terrific blanco. It’s easy to start with a wine as great as this one. Muga’s 2007 blanco is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia, fermented and aged in oak. Like other great Rioja blancos, the Viura effortlessly absorbs the wood and seamlessly integrates its flavors into the wine. The waxy, honeycomb nuances of the Viura are accented by the tropical, floral notes of the Malvasia component. Barrel fermentation and aging provides the wine with additional texture, grip and delicious vanilla accents. Enjoyable now, this wine is poised for another decade of effortless ageing. Perfect for Manchego cheese, tapas, paellas, braised pork and potato dishes, the wine is a wonder for food versatility. Alongside the reservas and gran reservas from Lopez de Heredia, this Muga is one of the great examples of Rioja blanco and one of our very favorite Spanish wines.

This symbol indicates a naturally farmed wine.

LINER & ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website

HOURS: Mon.-Sat., 10a.m -6p.m.
CLOSED: Labor Day, Mon. Sept. 6

SPECIAL TASTING TONIGHT:

BORDEAUX TASTING EVENT
With Jean-Christophe Calvet of Aquitaine Wine Company

Tuesday, Aug. 31
6:15-7:30 p.m.

Join Jean-Christophe Calvet of Aquitaine Wine Company for a tasting of superb Bordeaux. Monsieur Calvet, whose family have been négociants in Bordeaux for over 200 years, will pour a superlative selections of Bordeaux and speak about the wines.

No reservation needed. Tasting fee: $10.

RED WINES:
2007 Claar Cellars Cabernet-Merlot
2009 Owen Roe Abbot’s Table
2008 Lange Estate Pinot Noir
2009 Dom. du Cros-Philippe Teulier Marcillac
2009 Chantal & Philippe Mur Basté
2009 Dom. des Échardières Le Bécassou
2007 Burle Vacqueyra
2005 Ch. Miraval Côtes de Provence Rouge
2007 Ch. Jouclary Cuvée Tradition
2008 Odino Vaona Valpolicella Classico

WHITE WINES:
2008 Milbrandt Pinot Gris Traditions
2009 Felsner Grüner Veltliner
2008 Dom. Vullien Vin de Savoie Chardonnay Cuvée Prestige
2008 Ch. Miraval Côteaux Varois en Provence Blanc
2009 Barberani Orvieto Classico
2009 Marotti Campi Luzano Verdicchio
2008 Quattro Mani / Movia, Tocai
2007 Muga Blanco Rioja

FRIDAY TASTINGS:
First and third of the month
5:30-7:30, fee

Sept. 3 A Sizzling Selection of Pinot Blancs
from around the universe: Alsace, Burgundy, Austria, Oregon, Italy, Mars, and beyond!

Sept. 17 Wines From the Bandol Area of France: Tempier, Gaussen, Bastide Blanche, Rouvière, and more.

Oct. 1 Wines From Spain’s Ribera del Duero Region: Alion, Arroyo, Fernandez, and more.

SATURDAY TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at noon, no fee

Sept. 4 La Belle France: J. Vullien Vin de Savoie Chardonnay, Échardières Le Bécassou Touraine, Miraval Côtes de Provence Rouge, and Miraval Blanc.

Sept. 11 Muga Blanco, Dom. du Cros/Philippe Teulier Marcillac, Burle Vacqueyras, Chantal & Philippe Mur Basté Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan, and Ch. Jouclary Cuvée Tradition.

Sept. 18 A trio of treats from Italy: Barberani Orvieto Classico Secco, Marotti Campi Luzano Verdicchio, Odino Vaona, Valpolicella Classico. Plus: Felsner Grüner Veltliner, Quattro Mani Movia Tocai.

Sept. 25 From the Pacific Northwest: Milbrandt
Vineyards Pinot Gris, Lange Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Claar Cellars Cabernet-Merlot, and Owen Roe Abbot’s Table.