FEBRUARY
2012 NEWSLETTER
RED
WINES
OREGON –
RED
2010 Matello, Pinot
Noir, Cuvée Lazarus, Willamette Valley,
Oregon 19.99/213.50
We adore Marcus Goodfellow’s hands-off,
non-interventionist approach to winemaking.
And we are delighted to feature another
of his limited-release wines: the brand-new
Cuvée Lazarus Pinot Noir. Lazarus
is Matello’s designation for their
first-release Pinot, a wine specifically
fashioned for bright fruit and immediate
appeal. Matello’s 2010 Lazarus opens
with a brilliant garnet robe and high-toned
aromas of spicy raspberries, blood oranges
and earthy cranberries. Bright red fruits
grace the palate alongside smoky soil notes
and suggestions of wild yeast complexity.
Fine tannins and firm acidity sneak in mid-palate
to make the wine’s transparent core
of raspberry and cranberry fruit shimmer
with electric energy before turning the
spotlight to lovely hints of leafy underbrush
and white button mushrooms. Another honest-to-goodness
winner from Goodfellow, and a fantastic
expression of the red-fruit nature of Oregon’s
2010 vintage. Enjoy now and over the coming
five years with roast chicken, broiled salmon,
potatoes au gratin, pan-seared pork chops,
and roast duck.
FRANCE –
RED
2010 Domaine Maestracci,
Clos Reginu, Vin de Corse Calvi, Corsica,
France 14.99/160.00
The granite plateau of Reginu is located
in the foothills of Monte Grossu in the
northwest sector of Corsica. Here Michel
Raoust continues the legacy of his father-in-law,
Roger Maestracci, by fashioning honest,
true-to-the-soil wines from indigenous Corsican
and traditional southern French varietals.
Showing a limpid ruby color in the glass,
Maestracci’s Clos Reginu fills the
room with smoky, granite soil-inflected
aromas of cherries, loganberries and fennel.
Fresh and zesty on the palate, the wine
conveys the tension of the vineyard’s
arid high-altitude situation with a saline
kiss from its proximity to the nearby Mediterranean
Sea. Delicious and refreshing, the Clos
Reginu has the drinkability of a bistro
carafe wine, but also the utterly unique
terroir signature of the island’s
special granitic soils. Enjoy this young,
served with anything outside of the seafood
and acidic vegetable spectra. It is a perfect
introduction to the diversity and pleasures
of Corsican wine, and a terrific value.
2010 Château
Jougrand, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc-Roussillon,
France 10.99/117.50
In the center of France’s arid, mountainous
Languedoc region lies the subregion of Saint-Chinian.
Here deep, aromatic, intense wines are being
crafted from traditional southern French
varietals. Saint-Chinian’s chief varietal,
Carignan, gives this authentic wonder that
wild, untamed edge we so love from this
region. Saturated black-plum in the glass,
Jougrand’s Saint-Chinian opens with
wild, herbal, garrigue-driven aromas of
juniper, sage, black currants and tar. Bright
on the attack, the Jougrand continues the
herbal theme on the palate, complicated
by suggestions of licorice, dark chocolate,
dark roasted coffee and eucalyptus. The
wine’s intense fruit and herbal palate
presence segues to a long and remarkably
refreshing finish featuring reprises of
cassis and blackberry fruit wrapped inside
layers of herbal garrigue, tar and licorice.
Superb, authentic and rustic in all the
best ways, this is a soulful winter-warmer
rouge that chases away even the chilliest
days and proves itself a wonderful complement
to hearty braises, stews, grilled and roasted
meats, ratatouille, hard cheeses, and game.
2009
Domaine le Roc Fronton, La Folle Noire d’Ambat,
Southwest France 13.50/144.50
Situated just north of Toulouse, the wines
of Fronton are finally starting to get the
recognition they deserve. Their secret ingredient
is the Négrette grape, indigenous
to Cyprus but most at home on the iron-rich
quartz and gravel soils prevalent in this
forgotten corner of France. Should you wish
to explore what makes the Négrette
so special, this naturally-farmed beauty
is the perfect introduction. Opaque plum-ruby
in the glass, Domaine le Roc’s La
Folle Noire is highly perfumed with high
notes of violets, blueberries, black cherries
and ferrous terroir. Bright and snappy on
the palate, the wine reveals notes of cinnamon,
clove, star anise and a welcome undertone
of French funk. Fresh, long and soil-driven,
the wine finishes with utterly unique expressions
of violets, mushrooms, musk and earth. Enjoy
this with hearty sausages, charcuterie,
lentil dishes, duck confit, and roast poultry.
Unique, distinctive, and a “must try”
for wine geeks!
2008 Château
Clos du Moulin, Médoc, Bordeaux,
France 9.50/101.50
2008 is the sneaky good vintage in Bordeaux.
While 2009 wows for its power, 2008 enchants
with its elegance and balance. This classic
60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon blend
from Clos du Moulin shows why the ’08s
are so special. The Clos du Moulin’s
beautiful plum color in the glass leads
to lovely aromas of black currants, black
cherries, cinnamon and gravelly soil. Lush
and ample on the attack, the Clos du Moulin
tightens mid-palate to reveal old-school
Médoc structure and restraint. Hints
of chocolate, mocha and spicy, gripping
tannins creep in on the wine’s long
currant and gravel-inflected finish. This
is classically styled Médoc that
will bring smiles to those who remember
fondly the grace and charm – and prices
– of yesteryear’s red Bordeaux.
Enjoy now and over the coming decade with
game, roast beef, lamb, potatoes au gratin,
and hard cheeses.
2010
Domaine du Pas Saint Martin, Saumur, La
Pierre Frite, Loire Valley, France 13.50/144.50
In the heart of Saumur, Domaine du Pas Saint
Martin produces an impressive and complete
portfolio of still and sparkling wines.
Their Saumur rouge, La Pierre Frite, is
produced from Cabernet Franc organically
grown on silica-rich limestone soils, de-stemmed,
and fermented in stainless steel with the
specific intention of producing wine approachable
in its youth while also being expressive
of the Saumur’s special terroir. Deep
black-plum in color, the wine opens with
smoky, leafy, tobacco-tinged cassis fruit
complicated by floral top notes. Transparent
and terroir-driven on the palate, the Cabernet
Franc is merely a conduit for Saumur’s
perfumed limestone to take center stage.
Fine tannins and brisk acidity appear on
the wine’s finish, followed by complex
suggestions of violets, tobacco, menthol,
tar and smoky earth. This is splendid, authentic
Saumur rouge that’s ready to drink
now. Serve with everything from burgers
to chops to braises to stews.
ITALY – RED
2009 Fattoria La
Torre, La Villa, Chianti Colli Senesi, Tuscany,
Italy 9.50/101.50
The wines of the Colli Senesi pack a heck
of a lot of honest Chianti character for
very modest prices. Submitted for your approval:
this delicious, affordable selection from
Fattoria La Torre. Deep ruby in the glass,
the wine bursts with stony, soil-inflected
aromas of ripe plums, cherries and leather.
Brisk and vibrant in the mouth, notes of
bay leaf, beef consommé and button
mushrooms accent a sappy core of cherry
fruit, while fine tannins and food-friendly
acidity keep the exuberant fruit in lovely
balance. For under $10, this is the red
wine steal of the season and a lovely complement
to everyday fare like grilled burgers and
steaks, pastas in cream or meat sauces,
eggplant parmigiana, skillet fried pork
chops, and pizza.
2008 Rapalino,
Barbera d’Alba, Pian Romualdo, Piedmont,
Italy 14.99/160.00
Since its debut in these pages over a decade
ago, Federico Rapalino’s exemplary
Barbera is among our customers’ favorite
wines and one of the most successful selections
in L&E newsletter history. For its newly
released Barbera, Rapalino has captured
beautifully the aromatic elegance of the
Piedmont’s 2008 vintage and the impeccable
balance of the hallowed Pian Romualdo vineyard.
Rapalino’s opaque, black-ruby colored
2008 Barbera casts an expressive nose of
blackberries, plums, leather, cinnamon and
licorice. In the mouth the wine’s
palate-staining blackberry fruit is complemented
by bracing acidity, fine, buffered tannins
and lovely touches of leather, menthol and
tarry earth. Delicious now with braised
beef, oven-roasted root vegetables, egg-rich
pastas, or grilled pork, Rapalino’s
2008 Barbera will also cellar well for five
to seven years and reveal to the patient
the wine’s latent mushroomy, sotto
bosco notes.
WHITE WINES
FRANCE –
WHITE
2010 Michel Quenioux,
Domaine de Veilloux, Cheverny, Loire Valley,
France 15.99/171.00
Although Cheverny is best known as the finest
hunting grounds in France, wine has been
grown and made here since the 6th century
A.D. By law all Cheverny wines must be a
blend of varietals. Veilloux’s Cheverny
is based on the upper Loire’s traditional
Sauvignon Blanc, complemented by dashes
of Menu Pineau and Chardonnay. The Sauvignon,
however, dominates this refreshing blend
and yields a wine with a crisp, clean bouquet
of grapefruit, gooseberries, menthol and
flint. On the palate, the Cheverny conveys
brisk gooseberry and lime fruit accented
by crunchy, salty minerals and an herbal
bay leaf top note. Alternating waves of
tart green apples, lemon curd and flinty,
stony minerals highlight the wine’s
long, precise finish. Very versatile with
food, Veilloux’s Cheverny will complement
roasted pheasant, chicken, freshwater fish
dishes, fresh chèvres, and light
pork preparations. Drink young and often.
2010 Claude Lafond,
Reuilly, Pinot Gris, La Grande Pièce,
Loire Valley, France 16.99/181.50
The back label claims that this is a rosé
wine, but that assertion is debatable. What
is clear is that this is an unusually richly-colored
white wine, for, as you probably know, the
Pinot Gris is a magenta-colored grape. Regardless
of which side you choose – rosé
or blanc – this wine is an unqualified
winner. A brilliant lemon-gold color in
the glass, Lafond’s La Grande Pièce
casts classic Pinot Gris aromas of smoke
and buttered hazelnuts, but with the sense
of lightness, elegance and deftness that
only the delicate limestone soils of the
upper Loire can produce. On the palate,
hints of lemon juice, cranberry and flinty
soil are lifted by the wine’s brilliant
acidic spine. Buttery brioche, pâté
brisée, and lemon-hazelnut scone
batter mark the wine’s long rich yet
zesty finish. One of the most versatile
and delicious Pinot Gris in memory, Oregon
Pinot Gris fans and enthusiasts of Loire
Valley wines must try this wine. Serve with
salmon broiled and topped with hazelnut
butter, light pork preparations, light broth
fish stews, and medium-aged chèvres.
2009 Domaine du
Vieux Pressoir, Saumur Blanc, Elégance,
Loire Valley, France 13.99/149.50
Complementing the Pas Saint Martin Saumur
rouge above, Vieux Pressoir’s Chenin
Blanc Elégance is grown on similar
silica-rich limestone soil that imbues the
wine with its smoky soil personality. A
lovely green tinted lemon-gold in the glass,
the Vieux Pressoir Saumur Blanc opens with
aromas of acacia blossoms, pear, honeydew
melon and perfumed soil. Brisk and invigorating
on the palate, the Elégance –
fashioned as a sec tendre – plays
rich melon fruit against a tactile, waxy
texture and a brilliant acidic spine. This
bracing acidity follows onto the wine’s
long lemon, melon, and pear-fruited finish,
where another blast of Saumur’s smoky
limestone terroir asserts itself. Enjoy
now and over the coming decade with poached
freshwater fishes in a delicate beurre blanc
sauce, seafood pastas in a light cream sauce,
seafood risotto, spring morels and local
asparagus, fresh chèvres, and blanquette
de veau.
2010 Vins
Auvigue, Mâcon Davayé, Burgundy,
France 14.99/160.00
2010 is already being heralded as a classic
white Burgundy vintage, one of great soil
transparency, brilliant acidity and elegant
fruit. These wondrous attributes are exemplified
brilliantly by this lovely, juicy Mâcon
from Vins Auvigue. Opening with a brilliant
straw-gold color, the Macon Davayé
conveys a pungent, mineral-assertive nose
of buttery lemon fruit and Burgundy’s
inimitable limestone goût de terroir.
Crisp, clean, and stony on the palate, Vin
Auvigue’s Davayé rises far
above the average Mâcon with its intensity,
richness and lemony limestone goût.
Hints of quince, lemon curd and high-toned
limestone minerality provide additional
complexity on the wine’s long finish,
while a lingering suggestion of honeyed
melon completes this classy, top-caliber
Mâcon. Fans of affordable white Burgundy
will delight in this wine, which we suggest
serving now or over the next five years
with salmon, roast chicken, light pork preparations
and halibut.
ITALY – WHITE
2010
Rocca di Tufo, Orvieto, Umbria, Italy 9.50/101.50
Tuffeau (tufo) is the calcareous soil of
the Orvieto DOC and the inspiration for
this delicious, aromatic offering from winemaker
Giovanni Dubini. A classic Orvieto blend
of seven organically grown grapes, including
Grechetto, Procanico and Verdello, Dubini
brilliantly captures the floral, aromatic
and mineral essence of what makes Orvieto
one of our favorite Italian white wines.
A lovely pale green-gold color in the glass,
Rocca di Tufo’s Orvieto opens with
aromas of star fruit, honeydew melon, straw
and chalky minerals. Brisk and racy on the
palate, the wine conveys suggestions of
green apples, lime, grapefruit and hay,
all underpinned by a flinty, perfumed tufo
soil signature. Sappy and fresh on the finish,
the wine segues to a tropical fruit theme
with suggestions of pineapple and papaya
alongside herbal notes of camphor and basil.
A delicious, unusually complex and most
affordable Orvieto, the Rocca di Tufo will
pair wonderfully with all things seafood
as well as white pasta dishes, sautéed
green vegetables, fresh cheeses and light
chicken recipes. Enjoy now and over the
coming year.
2010
Tenuta Olim Bauda, Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont,
Italy 15.99/171.00
The Piedmont is home to the gorgeous Gavi,
made from the indigenous Cortese grape.
Olim Bauda’s 2010 Gavi di Gavi, from
the historical and superior zone immediately
around the town of Gavi, begins with a brilliant
lemon-gold color and aromas of lemon juice,
nettles and aromatic hops. In the mouth,
Olim Bauda’s Gavi attacks first with
crisp, juicy citrus fruit, and then broadens
mid-palate to offer notes of yellow plums,
chamomile, savory vegetable broth and young,
sappy pine buds. The wine finishes crisp
and lip-smacking with suggestions of juicy
citrus and a complex touch of almond skin,
which give the wine a splendid tactile grip
and pleasant, food-friendly bitterness.
Drink this aromatically compelling Gavi
young to capture its freshness, crispness
and zip. Enjoy with golden trout, snapper,
soups, vegetarian frittatas, summer squashes,
clams, and halibut.
2009 Feudi
di San Gregorio, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio,
Campania, Italy 12.99/139.00
Deep in the south of Italy lie the great
Mount Vesuvius and the revitalized wine
region of Campania. On Vesuvius’s
minerally volcanic soils, the ancient Coda
di Volpe (tail of the wolf) varietal reaches
its apogee and forms the foundation of the
historical Lacryma Christi bianco. A traditional
blend of 80% Coda di Volpe and 20% Falanghina,
Feudi’s Lacryma Christi casts a beautiful
limpid lemon-gold hue from the bowl. Bright
aromas of peaches, white flowers, and melon
yield to a zesty palate of bitter oranges,
musky flowers and smoky volcanic minerals.
These smoky minerals blossom and continue
on the wine’s long, clean finish followed
by lingering suggestions of sappy almonds
and waxy pine nuts. This is a natural pair
for shellfish and squid pasta dishes, sushi,
sautéed squashes, antipasti, and
grilled whole fish.
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LINER
& ELSEN
2222 NW Quimby St.
Portland, OR 97210
800-903-9463
503-241-9463
website
e-mail
HOURS:
Mon.-Sat. 10-6
CLOSED: Sunday
FRIDAY
TASTINGS:
First and third Friday
of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee
Feb.
3 Spain on Parade: Four decades
of Riojas!
Feb. 17
The first of the highly touted 2009 Bordeaux
have arrived. Taste what the hullabaloo
is about.
March 2
Beautiful Brunellos and Rossos from Montalcino.
SATURDAY
TASTINGS:
Weekly; Starts at
12 noon. No fee
Feb.
4 From France: Dom. de Veilloux
Cheverny, Dom. du Pas Saint Martin Saumur
Blanc, Dom. Maestracci Clos Reginu Vin de
Corse, and Dom. le Roc Fronton La Folle
Noire d’Ambat.
Feb. 11
Tim Rippa from Vinum Wines will pour Dom.
du Vieux Pressoir Saumur Blanc Elégance,
Claude Lafond Reuilly Pinot Gris, Ch. Clos
du Moulin Bordeaux, plus other fine Vinum
selections.
Feb. 18
Taste great Piedmontese wines with Gianni
Bauda from Tenuta Olim Bauda. Plus: Vins
Auvigue Mâcon Davayé, Ch. Jougrand
Saint-Chinian, and Matello Pinot Noir.
Feb. 25
From Italy: Rocca di Tufo Orvieto, Feudi
di San Gregorio Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio,
Fattoria La Torre Chianti, and Rapalino
Barbera d’Alba Pian Romualdo.
SPECIAL
EVENTS AT L&E:
Port
Tasting with Rupert Symington of Symington
Family Estates
New Date: MON. Feb. 6, 6:15-7:30
p.m.
After a five-year absence from Portland,
Rupert Symington, managing joint director
of Symington Family Estates, will join us
for a Port tasting. The Symington Family
Estates portfolio includes Ports from Graham's,
Dow's, Smith Woodhouse, Quinta do Vesuvio,
and Cockburn's. The full menu of wines to
be served will be on our website in January.
Fee: $45 per person. Pre-payment confirms
your reservation.
Seating is limited.
A
Tasting of Wines of Rosenthal Wine Merchant
Tues. Feb. 7, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
Please join for us for a tasting of great
wines from Neal Rosenthal, with Ben Anderson
as our host. Very few, if any, importers
can match the brilliance of the wines that
are in this great catalog of wines.
Glass fee: $10. No reservations needed.
A Taste of Burgundy
with Luc Bouchard of Bouchard Père
& Fils
Tues. Feb. 21, 6:30-7:30 p.m.
Glass fee $20. No reservations needed.
Bordeaux Wine Tasting
Thurs. March 1, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
Join us for a Bordeaux wine tasting
with Jean Christophe Calvet, owner of Aquitaine
Wine Company. He is the sixth generation
to be involved in the Bordeaux wine business,
working with classified growths as well
as petite chateau. Fee: $10. No reservations
needed.
WINE
DINNER:
Domaine Drouhin
Oregon vs. Maison Joseph Drouhin: A Dinner
with Laurent Drouhin at the Heathman
Weds., March 7, 6:30 pm.
France meets Oregon - in
the hands of great winemakers!
Join us for a unique special
tasting and dinner featuring an array of
wines from Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Maison
Joseph Drouhin. The paired menu will be
crafted by James Beard Award winning chef
Philippe Boulot. Our special guest will
be Laurent Drouhin.
The fee for this
event is $175 per person. Seating is limited
for this very special event. Please contact
the Heathman Restaurant for reservations.
503-790-7752.
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Portland, OR 97210 
