© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Availability and prices may have changed since the newsletter date.

 

DECEMBER 2017 NEWSLETTER

 

OUR OREGON PINOT NOIR SAMPLERS

These samplers are selected with gift giving in mind: one for you, one for them!
Enjoy these superlative wines on your holiday table, through the coming year, and beyond.

The case sampler contains two of each selection:

The Gold Sampler … 475.00 reg. 541.88

• 2013 Adelsheim, Elizabeth’s Reserve, Chehalem Mountains
• 2011 Ayres, Perspective, Ribbon Ridge
• 2014 Cristom, Estate, Eola-Amity Hills
• 2015 Crowley, Cuvee L&E, La Colina Vineyard, Dundee Hills
• 2015 Goodfellow Family Cellars, Durant Vineyard, Dundee Hills
• 2014 Resonance, Resonance Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton

The Silver Sampler … 235.00 reg. 265.88

• 2010 Amalie Robert, The Uncarved Block, Willamette Valley
• 2015 Apolloni Vineyards, L Cuvee, Willamette Valley
• 2014 Goodfellow Family Cellars, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
• 2015 Haden Fig, Croft Vineyard, Willamette Valley
• 2014 J. Christopher, Villages, Chehalem Mountains
• 2016 Swick Wines, Willamette Valley

 

RED WINES

OREGON

See the Oregon Pinot Noir Samplers (above)


FRANCE

2013 Denis Berthaut, Fixin, Burgundy, France (O) 34.99/377.89

This is outstanding, honest, soil-expressive Burgundy from a rising star. With the 2013 vintage, young Amelie Berthaut took over the reins from her father and is now in full charge of this legendary domaine. A gleaming ruby hue in the glass, Berthaut’s 2013 Fixin begins with floral notes of cherry blossoms and rose petals followed by meaty, Gevrey-like aromas of dark earth and mustard seed. Fresh and vibrant on the palate, the wine is impressively deft and soil-transparent. Fine tannins and brightening acidity lift suggestions of tart wild cherries, game, and wood smoke. Enjoy the wine now and over the coming seven years with roast chicken, turkey, duck, chanterelle mushroom preparations, and light salmon dishes. A dead ringer for a northern-sector Gevrey-Chambertin at a fraction of the price. Very limited.

2015 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy, France 20.99/226.69

Wow! Another superb Burgundy to feature this Holiday season! Like the 2013 Domaine Berthaut, the Fougeray de Beauclair domaine is situated in Marsannay-la-Cote, the northernmost village in the Cote d’Or. Casting a brilliant vermilion-accented ruby in the bowl, the wine explodes with classic Burgundian aromas of wild cherries, wild game, damp limestone, and vine smoke. On the palate, the wine bursts with impressively vivid, tangy red berry fruit backed by chewy tannins and brisk, palate-energizing acidity. Gamy, earthy, and delicious right out of the chute, this is soulful, satisfying, soil-driven red Burgundy priced for everyday enjoyment. Pair this beauty now and over the coming five years with roast game, pan-seared pork chops, seasonal squash dishes, and grilled sausages.

2005 Bodegas Faustino, Faustino I, Rioja, Gran Reserva, Spain 30.99/334.69

Oh the beauty, elegance, and complexity of old-school Rioja Gran Reserva! Year after year, Bodegas Faustino’s Gran Reserva exemplifies precisely what makes traditional, patiently-aged red Rioja so special. Deep chestnut-tinged black cherry in color, the 2005 Faustino I fills the bowl with complex aromas of Bing cherries, black plums, garam masala, pipe tobacco. and cedar. Brooding and intense, the wine reveals suggestions of spicy cherry and currant fruit backed by fine tannins, saddle leather, and classic barrel notes of vanilla and coconut. A blend of Tempranillo (85%), Graciano (10%), and Mazuelo, the wine’s silky, mature texture segues to a long, earthy, cedary, tobacco and mushroom-tinged finish. The 26 months in old barrels and three additional years in bottle have tamed the wine’s structure and gifted it with long-aged complexity that’s rare in the modern wine world. Enjoy this Gran Reserva now and over the coming twenty years with rich meat dishes, potatoes sauteed in olive oil, hearty bean stews, braised duck, and hard sheep’s milk cheeses.
Wine Spectator: 93 points

2014 Clos la Coutale, Cahors, Southwestern France 14.99/161.89

Clos la Coutale is Cahors’ undisputed benchmark estate. Malbec, the staple grape of Cahors’ incomparable wines, comprises 80% of Coutale’s classic regional blend. A dollop of Merlot softens the naturally structured Malbec component and serves to enhance the wine’s aromatic profile. Clos la Coutale’s 2014 vintage reveals the domaine’s penchant for elegance, freshness, and vibrancy. The wine opens with an opulent bouquet of black raspberries, cassis, curry powder, and earthy mushrooms. Bright and energetic in the mouth, the wine fuses a delicious core of snappy black fruits with complex suggestions of leather, tobacco, and porcini mushrooms. Fine, polished tannins and food-friendly acidity brighten the wine’s exuberant black-fruited core. A terrific effort for this legendary domaine, enjoy this gorgeous Cahors now and over the next five years with roast goose, grilled ribeye steaks, braised short ribs, rich eggplant casseroles, braised lentils, and lamb-focused cassoulets.
A Kermit Lynch selection

2010 Château Bel-Air, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France 28.99/313.09

You won’t find a better Bordeaux for under $30. Château Bel-Air crafts its lovely, elegant Pomerol from a blend of Merlot (95%) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinified in traditional cement vats, Bel-Air seamlessly fuses the supple, silky texture that marks the greatest Pomerols with impressive old-school restraint. A black plum color in the glass, the 2010 Château Bel-Air opens with delicious aromas of black cherry fruit accented by baker’s chocolate, leather, and morel mushrooms. Supple and suave on the attack, the wine then tightens mid-palate to reveal fine, buffered tannins, bright acidity, and subtle notes of plum skin, dark roasted coffee, savory herbs, and dark leather. This is pre-Parker Pomerol from a great vintage and a resounding testament to the fact that Pomerol is the finest terroir on Earth for Merlot. Enjoy now and over the coming decade with roast pork, grâtin dauphinois, baked or fried eggplant, and subtle (not spicy) Asian cuisines.


ITALY

2016 Angelo Negro, Vino Bianco Arneis, Roero, Piedmont, Italy 16.99/183.49

The Negro estate is one of the indisputable legends of the Roero region. Giovanni Negro, the estate's present owner, is reputed to have produced the first dry Roero Arneis on record in 1971. Fuller, fresher, and more satisfying than most Arneis, Negro's unfiltered wonder takes the grape to another dimension. The wine is aged on its less for six months and given an extra low dose of sulfur to allow its true nature to shine at a very young age. Deliciously aromatic with notes of yellow apple skin, white grapefruit, sandy minerals, and citrus blossoms, the wine's suspended lees give it an extra dimension on the palate. Serve the wine slightly chilled with oysters on the half-shell, crab pastas, lightly dressed salads, broiled halibut, sushi, and sashimi. Spectacular!

2013 Alberto Crespi, Nebbiolo, Luporosso, Vigneti in Costabella, Colline Novaresi, Piedmont, Italy 13.99/151.09

Imagine if your favorite Barbaresco was somehow fresher, less structured and more immediately appealing. That’s precisely what makes Crespi’s Luporosso so successful and delicious. The Alberto Crespi estate crafts this Nebbiolo from vines in the Alto Piemonte’s Novara hills west of Milan. In the glass, the Luporosso gleams with a transparent crimson-garnet color followed by spicy, bright, cinnamon-tinged aromas of sour cherries and red raspberries. Fresh and bristling on the palate, the Luporosso presents layers of pie cherry fruit, salted plums, tobacco, star anise, cinnamon, and dusty limestone minerals. The wine lingers long and bright before finishing with food-friendly Nebbiolo tannins and reprises of black raspberries, tobacco, pepper, and calcareous earth. From the great 2013 Piedmont vintage, enjoy this terrific, approachable, and authentic Nebbiolo with carne cruda or steak tartare, risotto, braised and grilled beef, and egg-rich tajarin sauced lightly with butter, sage, and Reggiano.

2016 Cavallotto, Dolcetto d’Alba, Vigna Scot, Piedmont, Italy (O) 17.99/194.29

Cavallotto’s single vineyard Dolcetto Vigna Scot hails from 30-year-old vines planted on the east-facing portion of the same hill upon which Cavallotto’s great Bricco Boschis Barolo is grown. An opaque black ruby color in the glass, Cavallotto’s Vigna Scot casts textbook Dolcetto aromas of black raspberries, red currants, cloves, and cinnamon-scented potpourri. On the palate, the Dolcetto frames bright bitter cherry fruit with plentiful fine tannins and savory suggestions of dried herbs, leather, and black pepper. Fresh, appetizingly tannic, and uncomplicated by oak, Cavallotto’s Dolcetto shares the convivial nature of the Dolcettos you would experience in the caffes and osterias in the Langhe, but with far more structure and complexity thanks to the old vines and the superiority of the vineyard site. Enjoy this lip-smackingly delicious Dolcetto now and over the coming five years with Piemontese primi and antipasti like carne cruda, risotto, vegetable flans, pâtes, and mushroom dishes.

2016 Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta, Rosso di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy 14.99/161.89

In southeastern Tuscany’s Montepulciano zone (no relation to the Abruzzi’s predominant Montepulciano grape), the local Sangiovese strain is called Prugnolo Gentile. Montepulciano’s wines are often warmer and more approachable than their brethren from Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Rosso di Montepulciano, the younger sibling of the esteemed Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, is specifically designed to be enjoyed at an earlier age. A translucent black cherry color in the glass, Gracciano della Seta’s Rosso di Montepulciano casts wonderful, authentic Sangiovese notes of cherry skin, leather, mushrooms, and dusty earth. Deft, elegant, and driven by its limestone soil signature, cherry fruit mingles with dusty limestone earth and hints of menthol, leather, and anise. On the finish, the Rosso’s chewy tannins yield to further waves of bright cherry fruit, tobacco, and limestone. We suggest pairing this lovely Rosso now and over the coming three years with bucatini all’amatriciana, mushroom sautees, grilled beef, roast pork, and Tuscan bean stews.

2008 Cantina Sociale Cooperativa, Copertino Riserva, Puglia, Italy 13.99/151.09

Folks, this is a ridiculously great wine and a dead ringer for the great, long-lamented early Notarpanaros and Salice Salentino Riservas from Dottor Cosimo Taurino. Like Salice, Copertino emphasizes the Negroamaro grape. Crafted from Negroamaro seasoned by a dollop of Malvasia Nera, the Copertino Riserva casts a kaleidoscope of aromas, from leather to red currants, ripe cherries, cinnamon, cola, and cured beef. Supple on the palate, the wine packs a wallop of funky, leathery fruit followed by framing tannins and herb notes. Long, lingering, and with impressive staying power, the wine finishes with earthy, mushroomy notes alongside reprises of saddle leather, tobacco, game, and peppery salumi. Buy this soul-satisfying rosso by the case and serve with pizzas, pasta in a sun-dried tomato, pine nut, and olive oil sauce, grilled sausages, and marinated flank steak.

2016 Monte Tondo, Corvina, Veneto IGT, Italy 12.99/140.29

To create the classic Valpolicella cuvee, the noble Corvina is typically blended with other varietals such as Molinara and Rondinella. Monte Tondo’s Veneto IGT is the extraordinarily rare 100% Corvina wine crafted from vines that could wear the more recognized Valpolicella label. Transparent garnet in the glass, Monte Tondo’s Corvina is redolent of pie cherries, orange peel, potpourri, mint, and star anise. Brisk on the attack yet round and satisfying, Monte Tondo’s Corvina conveys suggestions of violets, white pepper, and ruby red grapefruit notes wrapped around a bright, vibrant core of sour cherry fruit. Bitter herbs and fine tannins join the wine’s chewy core of red fruits to make this an exceptionally versatile and table-ready red wine. Pair this over the coming two years with just about everything but shellfish, oily fish, and delicate freshwater fish preparations.

2008 Antonelli, Montefalco, Rosso Riserva, Umbria, Italy 23.99/259.09

Antonelli’s Montefalco Rosso pays homage to Umbria’s three traditional red varietals, Sangiovese (70%), Sagrantino (15%), and Montepulciano. Featuring old vines and extended ageing, Antonelli’s Riserva offers an opaque black-ruby color with Sangiovese’s brown highlights followed by dark, earthy aromas of elderberries, black cherries, menthol, dark earth, and fine leather. On the palate, the Riserva seamlessly fuses the dark, brooding, tannic nature of the Sagrantino with the leathery cherry fruit of the Sangiovese and the friendly currant notes of the Montepulciano. The wine finishes long, complex, and appetizingly tannic with further waves of elderberry and black cherry fruit accented by complicating notes of cedar, cigar box, pipe tobacco, vanilla, and baker’s chocolate. Antonelli’s Montefalco Rosso Riserva is poised for a long evolution in your cool cellar, but will pair well now with richer fare like pork ribs, burgers, game, and pasta dishes topped with Pecorino Romano. Uncompromising and authentic!


WHITE WINES


OREGON

2015 The Eyrie Vineyards, Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon (CO) 18.99/205.09

Best known for its elegant, racy expression of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay, Oregon’s pioneering Eyrie Vineyards also fashions what is in many locals’ opinions the finest Pinot Blanc in the state. Presented for your consideration: Eyrie’s Pinot Blanc from the bold, full-bodied 2015 Willamette Valley vintage. Shimmering lemon-gold in the glass, the wine casts aromas of quince, lemon zest, meadow flowers, and mineral-rich soil. Ample in the mouth yet balanced by crisp, bracing acidity, the wine conveys expressions of yellow apple skin, green melon, and ferrous minerals. Remarkably cool, clean, and focused, the wine finishes with further sensations of tart green apples, ginger, fennel and lemon balm. This is world-class Pinot Blanc and a terrific choice to savor over the coming five years with grilled sockeye salmon, halibut, pan-roasted black cod, light poultry dishes, and grilled seasonal squashes.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous: 90 points


FRANCE

2015 Corinne et Jean-Pierre Grossot, Chablis, Burgundy, France 22.99/248.29

Grossot’s Chablis are renowned for their racy acidity, oyster shell minerality, and ability to age effortlessly. Pale lemon-gold with green glints, the Grossot’s 2015 Chablis explodes with deeply pitched aromas of the flint and oyster shell minerality imparted by region’s special Kimmeridgean limestone soils. Rich and bold thanks to the warm 2015 vintage, the wine expresses a kernel of rich, lemony fruit notes infused with notes of iodine, raw hazelnuts, and saline minerals. The wine lingers on the palate, going through waves of lemon, flint, golden apples, Mirabelle plums, and crushed oyster shells before finishing clean and begging you to follow it with a freshly shucked oyster of briny origins. Repeat until sated. This is impeccable, riveting Chablis that should grace your refrigerator now and over the coming three years for pairing with all things seafood.

2015 Domaine Masson-Blondelet, Pouilly-Fume, Les Angelots, Loire Valley, France (S) 19.99/215.89

One of Pouilly-Fume’s leading family estates, the Domaine Masson-Blondelet farms 21 hectares of vines without herbicides or insecticides in many of the appellation’s distinct terroirs. Masson-Blondelet’s Les Angelots hails from vines planted on hard caillottes limestone soils near Le Bouchot in the appellation’s southern sector. A deep lemon-gold in the glass, Masson-Blondelet’s Les Angelots casts aromas of green pineapple, ripe gooseberries, Thai basil, and mint. Immediately fresh on the palate, the wine fleshes out to reveal a core of lemon, grapefruit, pineapple, and passion fruit. Perfumed limestone minerals and sensations of freshly cut tarragon, mint, and basil vivify the wine’s core of ripe fruit and segue it to a long, zesty, mineral-driven finish. This is terrific Pouilly-Fume that will challenge the icons of the region at a fraction of the price. Enjoy now and over the next three years with all things seafood, especially shellfish and sashimi, asparagus, lightly dressed salads, and fresh chèvres.

2016 Kientzler, Chasselas, Alsace, France 11.99/129.49

Andre Kientzler and his sons, Thierry and Eric, are producing textbook, delicious, character-filled wines from the entire portfolio of Alsace’s noble varieties. Best of all, they are available for extraordinarily modest tariffs. Kientzler crafts one of Alsace’s very few remaining Chasselas wines. Bright green-gold in the glass, the 2016 Chasselas explodes with mineral-driven aromas of green plums, jasmine blossoms, heather, and quinine. Fresh and zesty on the palate, the wine’s laser-like acidity propels a fresh kernel of yellow apple, lemon, and nectarine fruit before finishing clean and precise. Serve this extremely versatile wine by itself as an aperitif, Kientzler’s Chasselas will also prove a wonderful partner to traditional Alsatian cuisine and with everything across the vegetable, seafood, light poultry, and pork spectra. Buy a case to enjoy now and over the next two years.


GERMANY

2015 Monchhof, Riesling Kabinett, Urzig Wurzgarten, Mosel, Germany 20.99/226.29  reg. 27.99

Robert Eymael is the sixth generation winegrower of the venerable Monchhof estate, first established in 1177 as a Cistercian abbey. The grand cru Urziger Wurzgarten vineyard features weathered red volcanic and slate with a high iron content giving the soil its vivid color and its wines an intense, spicy soil signature. Monchhof’s 2015 Urzig Wurzgarten casts a pale green-glinted gold color followed by dazzling aromas of honeysuckle blossoms, peaches, red currants, and piquant ferrous minerals. Fresh, zippy, and off-dry on the palate, the wine juxtaposes tangy kiwi, lime, and papaya fruit with teeth-shattering acidity and a riveting undercurrent of slate minerality. Light, precise, and impeccably balanced, the wine finishes fresh and indescribably delicious. It drinks remarkably well on its own, but begs you to pair it now and over the next three years with sushi, sashimi, medium spicy Asian cuisines, delicate freshwater fish preparations, seared scallops, and pork medallions. Only twenty cases available.


ITALY

2016 Ciro Picariello, Fiano, Irpinia DOP, Campania, Italy 15.99/172.69

Undoubtedly, the noblest of all southern Italian white grape varieties is the great Fiano. Fiano thrives in the southern Italian province of Campania and, like all the world’s greatest varietals, is sensitive to the soils on which it grows. Ciro Picariello – one of the undisputed superstar producers of Fiano – fashions his Irpinia bottling from vines grown at 2,100 feet above sea level on clay, loam, and sandstone soils. Reflecting a bright green-glinted lemon-gold hue, the wine blossoms in the glass with volcanic mineral notes inside suggestions of lime zest, honeysuckle, papaya, and wintergreen. On the palate, Ciro Picariello’s Fiano expresses fresh, juicy lemon, pear, and tangerine fruits countered with complex suggestions of white pepper, juniper, and bay leaf. Long, palate staining, and simply delicious, Ciro Picariello’s Fiano finishes clean and refreshing with a dusting of saline minerals on the lips and inner cheeks. Try this reference-setting Fiano now and over the next three years with shellfish, calamari, tuna, whole roasted branzino, and olive oil-sauced pasta dishes.


PORTUGAL

2016 Quinta de Porrais, Douro Branco, Portugal 9.99/107.89

The terraced shale vineyards of the Douro are a sight to behold. Here the vines cling to the precipitously steep hillsides and absorb the plenitude of minerals in the vineyards’ shallow soils. Grown at nearly 2,000 feet above sea level, Quinta de Porrais’s Branco – a blend of 65 to 80-year-old Codega do Larinho (60%) and Rabigato – is the white wine steal of the newsletter. Akin to a top notch Muscadet, Quinta de Porrais’s Branco employs its blend of indigenous varieties merely as a vehicle for expressing the intense minerality of the soils on which they grow. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, the Branco casts smoky, mineral-infused aromas of green pineapple, honeydew melon, acacia blossoms, and hay. Brisk and invigorating on the palate, the wine’s acid backbone propels a tart core of green plum and melon fruit. Floral notes emerge to segue the Branco to its long, clean finish featuring waves of smoky shale and schistose minerals. This is a stunning value as an everyday sipper or as a complement to green salads, sauteed zucchini, oysters on the half-shell, sashimi, steamed clams, and seafood tapas.

2016 Anselmo Mendes, Alvarinho, Contacto, Vinho Verde, Portugal 18.99/205.09

Join the Iberian wine revolution! Anselmo Mendes is unquestionably one of the most esteemed producers in Portugal’s Vinho Verde zone. Mendes’s 2016 Alvarinho Contacto, made from Alvarinho (a.k.a. Albariño) grown exclusively in Monção and Melgaço, is given extended skin contact to coax greater depth, character, and intensity from the usually delicate Vinho Verde’s noblest grape. Dazzlingly aromatic, the Contacto greets the palate with intense expressions of lemon zest, grapefruit, under ripe pineapple, yellow plums, and menthol. Electric acidity and a deep granitic mineral undercurrent drive the wine’s core of yellow fruit and segue it to a long, zesty, citrus-driven finish. Pair this amazing wine now and over the coming two years with seafood and vegetable paella, vegetable and seafood tapas, sushi and sashimi, and seafood pastas.


SPARKING WINES


FRANCE

2014 Albert Mann, Cremant D’Alsace, Extra Brut, Wettolsheim, Alsace, France 23.99/259.09

Lean, with notes of Honeycrisp apples, salty limestone, smoke, lime, and strawberry. A fabulous blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir.

NV Val de Mer, Cremant de Bourgogne, Brut, Non Dose, France (S) 18.99/205.09

Undoubtedly the finest sub-$20 sparkler in ages! The Val de Mer presents salty, chalky minerals inside a wrapper of buttery lemon curd. Fresh, with plentiful pinpoint bubbles, a creamy mouthfeel and notes of brioche.

N/V Domaine de Vieux Pressoir, Saumur, Fines Bulles, France 13.99/151.09

We challenge you to find a better sparkling wine at this price! A brilliant blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay that exhibits notes of cream, honey, roasted apple, and light toast.

N/V Aubry, Brut, Premier Cru, Jouy-les-Reims, Champagne, France
37.99/410.29  reg. 46.99

A superlative blend of Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Arbanne. The Aubry is zesty and crisp with notes of lemon curd, green apples, lime. A silky and polished palate. Wow!

LINER & ELSEN
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FRIDAY TASTINGS:

First and third Friday of the month
5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

Dec. 1 - A tasting of great Bordeaux wines

Dec. 15 - Our Annual Champagne Bash!

Jan. 5 - Start the New Year with superlative Chateauneuf-du-Pape



SATURDAY TASTINGS:

Weekly; 12-4:30 p.m. No fee

Dec. 2 - Wines from Oregon and beyong: Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Blanc, Mönchhof Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Quinta de Porrais Douro Branco, Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Contacto, and Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja.

Dec. 9 - From Italy: Angelo Negro Vino Bianco, Ciro Picariello Fiano, Monte Tondo Corvina, Cavallotto Dolcetto d’Alba, Alberto Crespi Nebbiolo Luporosso, Gracciano della Seta Rosso di Montepulciano, CSC Copertino Riserva, and Antonelli Montefalco Rosso Riserva,

Dec. 16 - French Beauties: Dom. Masson-Blondelet Pouilly-Fumé Les Angelots, Kientzler Chasselas, Grossot Chablis, Denis Berthaut Fixin, Fougeray de Beauclair Bourgogne Rouge, Clos la Coutale Cahors, and Ch. Bel-Air Pomerol.

Dec. 23 - We pour our superlative Oregon Pinot Noir Samplers.

Dec. 30 - Champagne and Sparkling wines: Albert Mann Crémant D’Alsace Extra Brut,
Val de Mer Crémant de Bourgogne Non Dosé, Dom. de Vieux Pressoir Saumur Fines Bulles, and Aubry Brut Premier Cru Champagne.

 

 


B = biodynamic methods; CO = certified organic; O = organic; S = sustainably farmed


© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Information and prices apply during the current month only. Wine availability and prices are subject to quantity on hand. We are not responsible for mispriced items in the newsletter.