| MARCH
2018 NEWSLETTER
RED WINES
OREGON
2014
Resonance, Pinot Noir, Resonance Vineyard, Yamhill-Carlton,
Willamette Valley, Oregon (S) 59.99/615.49 
Resonance is the venerable
Maison Louis Jadot’s first venture outside of Burgundy.
Crafted by Louis Jadot’s world-renowned winemaker
Jacques Lardière, the fruit for this estate bottling
hails exclusively from ungrafted rootstock planted on one
of the oldest dry-farmed vineyards in the Willamette Valley.
The results, you might imagine, are stunning! Gleaming with
a translucent ruby robe, Resonance’s Pinot Noir explodes
with deep impressions of black cherries, cola, vanilla bean
husk, and smoky dark minerals. Sappy and palate staining,
the wine follows through with a chewy core of cherry fruit
accented by barrel notes of smoke and vanilla. The Jadot
touch is evident in the wine’s dense fruit, suave
texture, coiled energy and youthful vigor. While it can
be enjoyed now, this wine is built for the long haul, and
we recommend cellaring it for at least a decade to allow
its latent complexities to unfurl. Pair with heartier fare
such as roast beef, lamb, squab, and earthy morel mushrooms.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous: 92 points
2015
Goodfellow Family Cellars, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley,
Oregon (S)
19.99/215.89
In warm Willamette Valley
vintages one seeks the deft, minimalist, elegant touch of
a masterful winemaker like Marcus Goodfellow. Casting a
classic crimson-garnet robe, Goodfellow’s 2015 Willamette
Valley Pinot presents a beautiful bouquet of Bing cherries,
crunchy cranberries, brown spices, and smoky earth. Fresh
and zesty on the palate, the wine conveys a gorgeous core
of cherry fruit framed by savory tannins and complex notes
of bay leaf, cinnamon, and sassafras. Sappy, brisk, and
sporting an appetizingly stemmy grip, this lovely red-fruited
Pinot demands food and rewards with impressive versatility.
Pair now and over the coming five years with broiled salmon,
roast chicken, gratin dauphinois, and sauteed mushrooms.
FRANCE
2014
Angelique Leon, Chinon, Loire Valley, France (S) 15.99/172.69
Angelique Leon assumed
the reins of her family’s estate with the 2002 vintage.
Her vineyards and winery lie in the great Chinon village
of Savigny-en-Veron. Slowly and methodically, Leon has converted
her estate to sustainable farming, manual harvesting, and
minimal intervention winemaking. Her 2014 Chinon is a wine
of pure harmony, reflecting a deep young claret robe and
classic Chinon aromas of black currants, black cherries,
salumi, savory herbs, and gravelly minerals. Fresh, vibrant,
and absolutely delicious, Leon’s Chinon balances a
core of black fruits with juicy acidity and a tannic backbone
that brings the wine into brilliant focus. At once both
quaffable and serious, the wine works well sipped by itself
or as a versatile partner to grilled hanger steaks, roast
chicken, potato and root vegetable recipes, and grilled
portobello mushrooms. Enjoy now and over the next five years.
2014
Chateau Recougne, Bordeaux Superieur, Bordeaux, France 13.99/151.09
Over the past two decades
Chateau Recougne has established itself as one of the greatest
and most consistent Bordeaux values. Perched on a hillside
near the border of Lalande-de-Pomerol, the estate's siliceous
clay soil is rich in iron oxides and an outstanding terroir
for the cultivation of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet
Franc. An opaque black-claret color in the glass, Recougne’s
2014 casts classic Right Bank aromas of plums, cherries,
cassis, tobacco, cedar, and earth. Sporting fine tannins
and a velvety texture, the wine blossoms on the palate with
further suggestions of chocolate, herbs, and graphite minerals.
Lovely notes of cassis and cigar box reemerge on the long,
generous finish. Delicious now, we believe the 2014 will
mature beautifully over the coming five to ten years, developing
additional complexity and nuance. Pair with roast beef,
game birds, hearty roasts of lamb, and earthy braised lentils.
“One of the best Bordeaux Superieurs money can buy…”
– Robert Parker, Wine Advocate
2016
Domaine de la Biscarelle, Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, Rhone
Valley, France (S) 14.99/161.89
Essentially a baby Chateauneuf,
Domaine de la Biscarelle’s Cotes-du-Rhone Villages
features a core of Grenache (55%), accented by Syrah and
Carignan, with a dollop of Cinsault thrown in for extra
complexity. A deep, opaque black plum color in the glass,
the wine opens with Chateauneuf-like aromas of clove-scented
cherry fruit accented by hints of cinnamon, freshly cracked
black pepper, licorice, herbs, and Seville orange zest.
Deep, intense, and satisfying on the palate, plentiful tannins
sneak in and serve to frame the wine’s chewy kernel
of black currant and black cherry fruit. A persistent stony
soil undercurrent segues the wine to its long, lingering
finish suggesting nutmeg, cloves, star anise, baker’s
chocolate, bitter cherry skin, and garrigue. This is a deep,
resinous, and complete Cotes-du-Rhone Villages – and
one that delivers way beyond its price tag. We suggest buying
this by the case for enjoyment now and to serve over the
next ten years with roast leg of lamb, dishes featuring
porcini mushrooms, anchovy-rich tapenades, and braised hare.
ITALY
2015
Fattoria Selvapiana, Chianti Rufina, Tuscany, Italy 15.99/172.69
Fattoria Selvapiana is
the beacon of all that’s unique and compelling about
Chianti’s northern Rufina zone. With rave reviews
from all the major critics, Selvapiana’s wines are
enjoying success like never before. Selvapiana’s brand
new 2015 Chianti Rufina release bursts from the glass with
a translucent garnet robe followed by classic Chianti aromas
of Bing cherries, fresh rose petals, aged leather, tamari,
and calcareous earth. Full and ample on the palate, the
wine frames its generous palate-staining expressions of
Morello cherry and plum fruit with plentiful fine, chewy
tannins and juicy acidity. Notes of sweet tobacco, red miso,
star anise, blood orange, and cloves join resurgent waves
of smoky minerality on the wine’s long, spicy finish.
Buy this beauty by the case to enjoy now and over the coming
decade with grilled burgers and steaks, Tuscan bean stews,
rosemary-scented roast lamb, and hearty eggplant casseroles.
Chalk up another winner for Fattoria Selviapiana!
2013
Castell’in Villa, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy
23.99/259.09
Much to our great pleasure,
we’re again able to present Castell’in Villa’s
superb 2013 Chianti Classico, a wine that will have lovers
of old-school Barolo, Brunello, and Chianti dancing around
the shop counter. The estate issues some of the most old-school,
long lived Chiantis from its vineyards in Chianti Classico’s
southernmost Castelnuovo Berardenga zone. Sporting a crimson-garnet
hue and classic Chianti aromas of pie cherries, tar, menthol,
and leather, Castell’in Villa’s 100% Sangiovese
Chianti Classico offers a fleshy, red-fruited palate expression
and superb chalky soil transparency. Suggestions of Bing
cherries, figs, and red plums grace the palate and give
way to complex hints of tobacco, bay leaf, licorice, sage,
and baker’s chocolate. Firmly tannic on its long finish,
the Castell’in Villa is first and foremost a food
wine and should be paired with hearty, rustic fare like
rich pasta dishes, roasts of lamb or beef, and stews. Drink
now to reminisce about the way great, age-worthy Chianti
used to be, then cellar enough to last you ten to fifteen
years.
2014
Scarpa, Barbera d’Asti, Casa Scarpa, Piedmont, Italy
(O) 19.99/215.89
Founded in 1854, the Antica
Casa Vinicola Scarpa is one of the grand, aristocratic,
but woefully unknown names in fine Piemontese wine. While
the house is renowned for its long-aging Barolos and Barbarescos,
it was among the pioneers that elevated Barbera into a serious
wine. This is Scarpa’s fresh and incredibly delicious
Barbera from their estate vineyard in Castel Rocchero, the
heart of the Monferrato zone. A deep and youthful crimson-tinged
ruby color, Scarpa’s Barbera opens with gorgeous,
spicy aromas of black raspberries, cranberries, licorice,
and tar. Vibrant and lively on the palate, the wine offers
bright black raspberry fruit, sprightly acidity, and earthy
suggestions of morel mushrooms and saddle leather. Bright,
dry, and tangy, Scarpa’s Barbera finishes with soft
tannins and an earthy, mushroomy complexity that few Barberas
can match. Pair this delicious wine now and over the next
decade with all things Piemontese: egg-rich tajarin with
a butter and sage sauce, risotto con funghi, beef brasato,
polenta, and salumi. It will also pair well with roast chicken,
burgers, and pan-seared pork chops.
2012
Colli di Castelfranci, Vadantico, Irpinia, Campi Taurasini,
Campania, Italy 13.50/145.80
In the Campi Taurasini
DOC, the Aglianico grapes hang for an especially long time
and are among the last in Italy to ripen. Intentionally
crafted to be more approachable and less austere, Campi
Taurasini can be considered a kind of younger sibling of
Taurasi. It is a wine that is should be easy to drink but
also one of spirit, quality, and sense of place. Opaque
black plum in the glass, Colli di Castelfranci’s Vadantico
casts classic, smoky, volcanic soil-driven aromas of Szechuan
peppers, macerated cherries, stemmy herbs, and camphor.
Notes of pomegranate, tobacco, cinnamon, star anise, and
pink peppercorns emerge as the wine lingers on the palate.
Piquant and smoky, the Vadantico reaffirms its volcanic
origins on its long, spicy and oh-so-satisfying finish.
The Vadantico will prove a wonderful pasta wine that will
complement sauces rich with olive oil, sun-dried tomatoes,
garlic, and pine nuts. Delicious now served with the aforementioned
pasta dish, eggplant casserole or a spit-roasted leg of
lamb, it will easily reward a few years’ patience
in your cool cellar.
2015
Vallana, Spanna, Colline Novaresi, Piedmont, Italy 18.99/205.09
Renowned for intense, characterful,
long lived wines from the Alto Piemonte, Vallana’s
Spanna is a 100% Nebbiolo vinified traditionally in cement
and aged six months in large oak casks. A beautiful black
cherry color in the bowl, swirl the Spanna vigorously to
coax its lovely aromas of pomegranate, orange oil, smoky
soil, salumi, and white pepper. On the palate, pomegranate
and cherry fruit join with plentiful old-school tannins,
balancing acidity, and complex notes of orange-scented potpourri,
tobacco, mushrooms, and ferrous soils. Long, zesty, and
brimming with character, this is a superb and unusually
affordable expression of Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo. Pair this
beauty with both classic hearty Piemontese cuisine and with
everyday fare such as pizza, pasta, burgers, and pork chops.
WHITE WINES
OREGON
2016
Goodfellow Family Cellars, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley,
Oregon (S)
15.99/172.69
Marcus Goodfellow’s
expressions of Pinot Gris are among our very favorites from
the Willamette Valley. Goodfellow Family’s 2016 Pinot
Gris blends fruit from the esteemed Bishop Creek (Yamhill-Carlton)
and Whistling Ridge (Ribbon Ridge) Vineyards. A classic
lemon-gold in the glass, the wine opens with aromas of smoke,
raw Brazil nuts, lemon zest, and acacia blossom. Full bodied
yet deft on the palate, Goodfellow’s Gris presents
subtle notes of smoke, lemon juice, quinine, and salty minerals.
Crisp, coiled, and briskly acidic, the wine finishes long
and taut with a latent core of complexity. While Goodfellow’s
Gris can be broached now, please be sure to serve it at
cool cellar temperature – rather than chilled –
and give it plenty of air to fully unfurl. Ready to drink
now, or stash in your cellar for three to seven years and
wait for the genie within to work her magic. Pair with broiled
salmon, roast chicken, tartiflette, and sauteed morel mushrooms.
AUSTRIA
2016
Nigl, Gruner Veltliner, Freiheit, Kremstal, Austria (S)
18.99/205.09
2016 is shaping up to be
a classic Austrian vintage. Nigl, unquestionably one of
Austria’s elite estates, crafts focused, chiseled
wines of impeccable detail and transparency, and this is
their finest Freiheit in years. From the deep Löss
soils on which Gruner Veltliner thrives, the 2016 Freiheit
conveys the shimmering acidity, transparent clarity, and
persistent mineral tension that we so adore. The wine casts
a pale green-gold hue followed by crystalline aromas of
honeysuckle blossoms, jasmine, lentils, and white pepper.
Nigl’s Gruner strikes the palate with pure, mineral-driven
green melon, lime, and gooseberry fruit accented by suggestions
of sweet snap peas, blond tobacco, and lemon thyme. Brilliant
acidity transitions the Freiheit to its long, zippy finish,
which features echoing waves of deep Löss minerality
and brisk impressions of citrus and melon fruits. Enjoy
the wine now or over the coming two years with sauteed green
vegetables, grilled zucchini, braised pork, and roast chicken.
FRANCE
2016
Andre Dezat & Fils, Sancerre, Loire Valley, France 19.99/215.89
A frequent selection in
these pages, Dezat’s 2016 Sancerre is another extraordinary
effort that deserves a spot in your cellar and on your table.
With the cool, classic 2016 vintage, Dezat’s Sancerre
casts a pale, green-tinged gold color in the glass followed
by aromas of grapefruit pith, lime juice, muskmelon, freshly
cut grass and dusty, chalky minerals. On the palate, the
wine alternates waves of juicy citrus fruit, white pepper
and herbal notes of nettles, basil, and menthol –
all lifted by bristling acidity and an undercurrent of chalky
minerality. This is a superb, elegant, authentic Sancerre
and the rare Sancerre value. Buy this to enjoy now and over
the coming three years with fresh chèvres, poached
freshwater fish dishes, oysters, clams, mussels, vegetable
risottos, white pastas, and as a top shelf reward for a
hard day’s work.
2015
Domaine de Bablut, Anjou Blanc Sec, Petit Prince, Loire
Valley, France (B) 19.99/215.89
This is one heck of a dry
Anjou Chenin blanc! The Daviau family has owned vines on
the hills surrounding the Angevin village of Brissac since
1546. Today, Christophe Daviau manages the Domaine de Bablut
with faithful dedication to organic and biodynamic practices.
Bablut’s Anjou Blanc Sec opens with a pale gold color
and opulent aromas of quince, pear, melon, honey, and heather.
Bracing on the attack, Bablut’s Sec fleshes out on
the palate to reveal suggestions of pear tarte tatin, curry
leaf, cinnamon, nutmeg, bay leaf, and savory schistose minerals.
Sappy, textured, and layered, the wine finishes with impressively
complex notes of linden blossom, hawthorn, chamomile, bee
pollen, juniper, and apricot. Enjoy it now for all its youthful
vigor or, better yet, age it five to twelve years for it
to gain that waxy resinous texture that makes Chenin geeks
swoon. Pair with ceviche, sashimi, sushi, young chèvres,
white bean stews, and light fish and poultry dishes.
2016
Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy,
France 27.99/302.29
The 2016 Paul Pernot Bourgogne
Chardonnay is at once rich, textured, and precise, conveying
premier cru intensity and soil transparency rarely found
in such an affordably priced Cote-de-Beaune blanc. Fashioned
from declassified Puligny-Montrachet vines on the Meursault
border, the wine opens with a lemon-gold color in the glass
followed by rich, golden, Meursault-like aroma of lemon
curd, hazelnuts, Brazil nuts, and subtle French oak inflections.
Long, sappy, and packed with limestone-infused impressions
of fresh lemon juice, acacia blossoms, and buttery pastry
crust, Pernot’s Bourgogne blanc finishes elegant,
rich, and incredibly well balanced. In addition, palpable
limestone mineral undercurrent persists from start to finish.
Enjoy this beauty now and over the coming decade with roast
pork, veal, poultry, white-fleshed fish dishes, and young
chevres. Very limited – especially in the short 2016
Burgundy vintage – so be sure to call early to secure
your case of this beauty.
NV
(2016) Domaine Leon Boesch, Edelzwicker, Alsace, France
(B)
15.99/172.69 (1 liter)
The family Boesch are eleventh-generation
Alsatian vignerons who adhere to the mystical principles
of biodynamics to grow and vinify their exemplary range
of traditional varietal wines. A blend of Sylvaner, Pinot
Blanc, and Muscat, Boesch’s exotic, aromatic Edelzwicker
(“noble blend”) combines leftover wines from
the domaine’s finest parcels into a delicious, affordable
cuvee. Deep green-gold in the glass Boesch’s Edelzwicker
casts captivating aromas of muskmelon, passion fruit, pineapple,
smoky minerals, lychee, and sweet spices. Fresh and brimming
with energy, the wine presents an amalgam of Alsatian goodness
with white pepper and botrytis-driven citrus and orchard
fruit backed by suggestions of lemongrass, fennel, and freshly
grated ginger. Serve this delicious and versatile wine year
’round with pates, terrines, firm and washed rind
cheeses, choucroute garnie with sauerkraut, and savory cuisines
from Alsace, Germany, and central Europe. Far more serious
than most Edelzwickers, Boesch’s beauty sports a laughably
low price and is packaged in a handy one-liter bottle to
boot!
HUNGARY
2014
Kiralyudvar, Tokaji Furmint Sec, Tokaji, Hungary (B) 19.99/215.89
Kiralyudvar (kee-rye-oohd-var)
is the crown jewel estate of Hungary’s legendary Tokaji
region, and their 2014 Tokaji Furmint Sec is simply sensational.
Casting a deep lemon-gold color in the glass, Kiralyudvar’s
Furmint Sec opens to reveal the high-toned bee pollen, honeycomb,
and white meadow flower aromas. Brisk acidity and a generous
core of lemon, bitter orange, and white grapefruit grace
the palate alongside a riveting flinty mineral undercurrent.
A blend of Furmint (80%) and Harslevelu, the wine develops
a fascinating resinous texture on the palate, which follows
through to a long, clean finish suggesting orange blossom
water, quinine, and nutmeg. We recommend pairing Kiralyudvar’s
Furmint Sec with young and mature goat cheeses, braised
pork, tapas featuring smoked paprika, and assertive Hungarian
fare such as goulash. A stunning wine of great character
and depth – and a must try!
ITALY
2016
Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio, Campania,
Italy 12.99/140.29
Falanghina is one of southern
Italy’s most historic and noble white wine grapes
and the Feudi di San Gregorio is unquestionably one of Campania’s
finest and best-known estates. We’re absolutely thrilled
with Feudi’s newly released 2016 Falanghina del Sannio,
sourced from prime hillside vineyards north of Naples. Feudi’s
2016 Falanghina opens with a brilliant lemon-gold color
and exotic aromas of cinnamon, lavender, papaya, and piquant
volcanic minerals. On the palate, Feudi’s Falanghina
reveals a perfumed soil signature expressed through a core
of Meyer lemon, honeydew melon, and green pineapple fruit.
The Falanghina’s finish is focused, precise, and appetizing,
showing notes of white peaches, star anise, and Sannio’s
special volcanic terroir. Enjoy this southern Italian beauty
young, served with fried calamari, sushi, clams, mussels,
squid, vegetarian fare, and seafood pasta dishes sporting
lots of extra virgin olive oil and fresh garlic. 2016 is
a sensational white wine vintage, and this gets our vote
for the finest Feudi Falanghina yet!
PORTUGAL
2016
Anselmo Mendes, Muros Antigos, Loureiro, Vino Verde, Portugal
16.99/183.49
Unquestionably one of the
most esteemed producers in Portugal’s Vinho Verde
zone, Anselmo Mendes takes Vinho Verde to the next level
by focusing on the region’s most characterful varietals
as expressed from their most prestigious terroirs. Mendes’s
2016 Loureiro single-varietal Vinho Verde hails from the
Lima River Valley where the variety thrives thanks to a
strong climatic influence from the Atlantic. Casting a medium
straw-gold color, the 2016 Loureiro opens with aromas of
pear skin, bay leaf, and juniper. Briskly acidic yet fleshy
and suave on the palate, the wine impales the palate with
pear and lime fruit complicated by hints of lemon zest,
linden leaf, and fresh ginger. Long, lingering, and refreshing,
the Loureiro finishes with salty impressions of granitic
soil, sweet grapefruit, and lemongrass. Fans of Chenin,
Riesling, Albariño, and Arneis should take special
note and plan to pick up a case of this beauty for enjoyment
now and over the coming seven years with shellfish, crustaceans,
delicate fish dishes, and light potato and vegetable tapas.
This is a world-class white wine for a pittance!
SPAIN
2016
Manuel Guerra Justo, Via Arxentea, Treixadura y Godello,
Monterrei, Galicia, Spain 17.99/194.29
The Monterrei D.O. lies
in in the southeastern corner of Galicia, bordering Portugal.
Monterrei's inland location makes it warm and dry during
summer, a climate that results in fuller-bodied wines as
compared with other sectors of Galicia. Manuel Guerra Justo’s
Via Arxentea Treixadura y Godello conveys the magic that
these two indigenous varietals can perform in the hands
of a meticulous, artisanal winemaker. A brilliant gold in
the glass, the Via Arxentea bursts with vivid aromas of
honeysuckle and jasmine blossoms, green pineapple, yellow
plums, and dusty minerals. Broad in texture on the palate
yet bracing with freshness and acidity, the wine reveals
a kaleidoscope of flavors ranging from Meyer lemon, quince,
and clementine orange fruits to fresh ginger, tarragon,
and menthol. Impressive mid-palate intensity, wild yeast
high notes, and a wonderful interplay among citrus fruit,
pit fruit, minerality, and freshening acidity make this
one of the most impressive and engaging white wines we’ve
tasted from Monterrei. Enjoy now and over the next five
years with squid a la plancha, seafood and vegetable paellas,
salt cod fritters, and pastas tossed with olive oil.
2016
Palacio de Canedo, Godello, Bierzo, Spain (O) 16.99/183.49
The Godellos of Rueda get
all the attention, but it’s Godellos from Bierzo that
get our motors running. From fruit grown organically at
2,000 to 3,000 feet on special “pimentero” red
clay and slate soils, Palacio de Canedo’s Godello
opens with shimmering impressions of lemon pith, lime zest,
green apple skin, and honeysuckle blossoms. Brisk and invigorating
on the palate, the Godello alternates between high-toned
apple, pear, and citrus fruit infused with slate minerals,
malted barley, and resinous ginger. Fresh, focused, and
long, the wine finishes clean and vibrant with reprises
of orchard and citrus fruit accented by spicy slate minerals
and a tingling spine of acidity. This is out-freaking-standing
Godello and the must-try white wine of this newsletter.
Pair now and over the coming three years with all things
seafood, fresh chèvres, and light vegetable tapas.
ROSE WINE
OREGON
2017
Day Wines, Babycheeks Rose, Applegate Valley AVA, Oregon
(O) 18.99/205.09
In 2006, Brianne Day began
traveling through wine regions around the world, working
at wineries in Burgundy, Argentina, Australia, and New Zealand.
During this time she re-established her home base in Oregon
at a number of wineries including The Eyrie Vineyards and
Brooks. For her own exemplary portfolio of wines, Day employs
exclusively native yeast fermentations with low additions
of sulfur, and emphasizes minimal intervention in the cellar.
A blend of Tannat (64%) and Cot from Oregon’s southern
Applegate Valley, these characterful, tannin-rich varieties
make lovely partners in Day’s savory rose. The 2017
Babycheeks rose casts aromas of white raspberries, red currants,
and pink rose petals. Fleshy and generous on the palate,
the wine follows with juicy raspberry and pomegranate fruit,
bristling acidity, and savory herbs. High-toned wild yeast
notes segue to a long, juicy finish that begs for spring
Chinook salmon, Swiss chard, vegetable souffles, or sipped
on its own. This will go fast, so please reserve enough
to get you through this year and into the next.
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