© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Availability and prices may have changed since the newsletter date.

SEPTEMBER 2018 NEWSLETTER

 

RED WINES

OREGON

Pre-arrival offer:
2016 Crowley, Pinot Noir, La Colina Vineyard, Liner & Elsen Cuvee, Willamette Valley Oregon 39.99/431.89

This year’s Cuvee L&E Pinot Noir, made from a single barrel of Pommard clone, does Crowley Wines proud! The aromatics leap from glass, offering complex scents of cherries, raspberries, oranges, lemons, violet, Bergamot, and bouquet of savory herbs. On the palate, a core of  wild cherries, raspberries, Mandarin orange, and lemon notes is anchored by sturdy but silky tannins, energizing acidity, and background notes of earth, and minerality. The finish is long, lively, and very balanced with additional hints of herbs and spice come out on the enduring finish. We highly recommend this wine for your cellar. As delicious as it is now, the Crowley 2016 Cuvee L&E will benefit from 10-12 years of aging.

Limited: only twenty-five cases. Magnums and 375ml also available. This is a pre-arrival offer: wines will be delivered Fall/Winter 2018.

2016 Cameron, Pinot Noir, Reserve, Dundee Hills, Oregon (S) 35.99/388.69

This is killer Dundee Hills Pinot! Winemaker John Paul sources the Pinot for his justly named Reserve primarily from the hallowed Abbey Ridge vineyard. He then rounds it out with a dollop of estate fruit from Clos Electrique. Crafted primarily from Pommard clones, Cameron’s 2016 Pinot Reserve explodes with a saturated, black-ruby hue in the glass followed by deep aromas of black raspberries, cinnamon, woodruff, mint, and spicy earth. The palate is packed with earthy blackberry and black cherry fruit accented by lavender, herbs, rose petals, and a piquant, spicy soil signature. Plump, vibrant, and brimming with energy, the Cameron Reserve finishes with fine, buffered tannins framing the wine’s palate-staining kernel of dark fruit. The wine impresses today with hearty stews, grilled meats, and earthy mushroom fare. It will also reward seven to ten years’ patience in your cool cellar. Limited; twenty-five cases.

FRANCE

2015 Domaine Michel Prunier et Fille, Cote de Beaune-Villages| Burgundy, France (S) 29.99/323.89  reg. 37.99

A legend in his home village of Auxey-Duresses, Michel Prunier and his daughter Estelle have assembled a superb portfolio of red and white Burgundies. The father-daughter team crafts their Cote de Beaune-Villages from east-facing vineyards that impart impressive freshness and soil transparency to the wine in the warm 2015 vintage. Prunier’s 2015 Cote de Beaune-Villages reflects a limpid garnet hue followed by fresh, limestone-infused aromas of red raspberries, red currants, and pomegranate seeds. Lithe and elegant on the palate, plentiful tannins and bright limestone minerals propel the wine’s kernel of crunchy red berry fruit. Zesty and inimitably Burgundian, the wine finishes with further waves of red berry fruit accented by latent hints of blood orange zest, game, and bay leaf. Enjoy this superb, authentically-styled red Burgundy now and over the coming seven years with grilled and roasted chicken, pan-seared pork chops, and sauteed summer squashes. Very limited; only 10 cases available

2017 Domaine des Echardieres, Touraine, Le Becassou, Loire Valley, France (S) 12.50/135.00

Echardieres’ Le Becassou cuvee is a lovely, sustainably farmed blend of Gamay (60%), Malbec (20%), and Cabernet Franc (20%) that effortlessly expresses the transparent limestone soil perfume of the central Loire Valley. The fusion of the berry-fruited Gamay, the herb and cherry-scented Cabernet Franc, the dark brooding nature of the Malbec, and the inimitable clay and limestone terroir of the Touraine make this the value-play red of the newsletter. Translucent black-ruby colored and loaded with cinnamon and herb-tinged cherry and black raspberry fruit, Echardieres’ Becassou bursts with freshness and drinkability. The combination of Luc Poullain’s careful viticulture and the Touraine’s special terroir make for a superb wine that will work splendidly as a late summer and early fall red. Grab a case to enjoy now with grilled fare and throughout the coming cool weather months with fresh chevres, roast chicken, pork chops, and dishes featuring Chanterelle mushrooms.

2017 Olivier Pithon, Cotes Catalanes IGP, Mon P’tit Pithon, Roussillon, France (B) 14.99/161.89

Olivier Pithon is a rising star in the world of natural wine. From the soil to the bottle, Olivier Pithon is focused on one simple rule: making wines the most natural way possible, with a deep respect for the environment. Olivier’s Mon P’Tit Pithon rouge, an equal blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah, is fashioned to be a “vin de soif,” a fresh, easy-drinking red wine for joyous occasions. Sporting a youthful purple robe, the wine delivers aromas of fresh black cherries, plum skin, and blackberries backed by notes of dried herbs and dusty minerals. Plump, zesty, and vibrant on the palate, gorgeous cherry and raspberry fruit and impeccable balance make the Mon P’Tit Pithon perfect for late summer and early fall barbecues: think of dry-rubbed ribs, hanger steaks, zucchini, soft cheeses, and picnic fare. Drink young to capture all the Pithon’s vivacious fruit.

2013 Domaine le Couroulu, Vacqueyras, Cuvee Classique, S. Rhone Valley, France 18.99/205.09

This is a must-try selection for fans of old-school Southern Rhone wines. The Domaine le Couroulu is a superstar in their home village of Vacqueyras. A blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%), and Mourvedre, Couroulu’s Classique presents a mature, amber rimmed rusty-garnet color and textbook Vacqueyras aromas of sun-warmed cherries, ripe plums, bay leaf, and curry powder. Packed with flavor yet remarkably lithe, Couroulu’s Vacqueyras layers the palate with bitter cherry fruit, old-school funk, earth, game, leather, and garrigue. Classically styled and reminiscent of the great Southern Rhone rouges of yesteryear, the wine finishes with fine, buffered tannins and echoes of game, leather, and earth. Drink now and over the next five years with cured meats, mild sheep’s milk cheeses, braised beef or lamb with rosemary and olives, or with rich, slow-cooked ratatouille.

2015 Chateau Pique Caillou, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France (S) 29.99/323.89

The Chateau Picque Caillou is located in the heart of the Pessac-Leognan appellation, the historic cradle of the Bordeaux region. A close neighbor of both Haut-Brion and Pape Clement, Picque Caillou’s 50-acre estate is named for the pebbly soils that originated from sediments deposited by the nearby Garonne River. Picque Caillou’s 2015 – a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (35%), and Petit Verdot – shows a blueberry-ruby color and classic Pessac-Graves suggestions of cassis, black cherries, cedar, violets, and gravelly earth. The wine balances its modern full and lush texture with classic claret tannins, earthiness, and tobacco overtones. Long, complex, and oh-so-satisfying, the 2015 Picque Caillou finishes graceful, elegant, and harmonious with additional touches of mint, dried herbs, and graphite. A perfect match for roast beef and earthy mushroom recipes, this is a smartly priced grand cru claret to buy by the case for enjoyment now, two decades from now, and any time in between.

ITALY

2013 Falchini, Toscana IGT, Paretaio Rosso, Tuscany, Italy 18.99/205.09

A complete and elegant wine, Paretaio gets our vote as one of the greatest Super Tuscan values on the market! The great Falchini estate crafts its superb barrique-aged Super Tuscan red from blend of Sangiovese (90%) and other Tuscan varieties grown in the esteemed Paretaio vineyard just north of the hilltop village of San Gimignano. Falchini’s 2013 Paretaio casts an opaque mahogany-tinged ruby color from the glass alongside deep aromas of black cherries, brown spices, wintergreen, leather, tobacco, and button mushrooms. Chewy, tobacco-tinged Sangiovese fruit stains the palate alongside brisk acidity and waves of authentic old-school tannins. Sangiovese’s distinctive leather and mushroom notes reappear on the Paretaio’s back-palate and segue the wine to its long, elegant finish featuring complex suggestions of black cherries, cured meat, tobacco, bittersweet chocolate, and vanilla bean. Pair it now and over the coming decade with pizza, meaty pasta dishes, rich Tuscan bean stews, and grilled Porterhouse steaks.

2015 Fattoria di Petroio, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy 14.99/161.89

The Fattoria di Petroio is well established as an L&E staff and client favorite. Petroio’s 2015 normale, based on a core of Sangiovese (90%) complicated by a blend of Colorino and Malvasia Nera, casts a translucent, amber-tinged black cherry robe and a complex, delicious bouquet of violets, leather, mint, pencil lead, and dusty limestone soil. Hailing from the prestigious Castelnuovo Berardenga village in the very south of the Chianti Classico zone, the wine’s elegant, inviting core of cherry and red currant fruit is buoyed by a tangy acid spine, waves of ultrafine Sangiovese tannins, and complex suggestions of tar, leather, herbs, and dusty earth. Petroio’s Chianti Classico is deliciously accessible in the highly lauded 2015 Tuscan vintage, finishing long and charming with complex notes of cherry skin, tar, leather, and tobacco. Pair this beauty now and over the coming five years with hearty pastas, roasts, and rustic casseroles featuring tomato, zucchini, and potatoes. Yet another stellar success from Petroio!


WHITE WINES

OREGON

Pre-arrival offer:
2016 Cameron Winery, Chardonnay, Cuvee L&E Le Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon (S) 64.99/701.88

The 2016 Cameron Le Blanc is simply stunning! Compared to last year's offering, which was the first-time launch of a white cuvee with Cameron, this wine is quite different – and quite a surprise. The new cuvee is a blend of two barrels consisting of the best fruit from the brilliant Clos Electrique vineyard (estate), as well as fruit from Abbey Ridge. With no oak influence to speak of (as the both the barrels are over eight years old), the 2016 Le Blanc exhibits lovely hints of lemon, Kaffir lime, mango, green and red apple, peach, brioche, and Mandarin orange. Yet as beautiful as the aromatics are, it is the electrifying palate that makes this wine sing. Thanks to topnotch cellar management, the fruit sits on its lees for one and half years, which provides great texture and body. Along with fabulous texture due to the Clos Electrique, the palate is steely, minerally, and salty. Spectacular acidity is supplied by the Abbey Ridge portion of the blend. This combo is hard to beat!

Limited: only twenty-five cases are available. Magnums and 375ml also available. This is a pre-arrival offer: wines will be delivered Fall/Winter 2018.

FRANCE

2017 Domaine de l’Idylle, Cruet, Savoie, France (S) 12.99/140.29

With their low alcohol content, sensible price tags, and high refreshment quotients, the Savoie’s Jacquere-based wines are among our personal go-to wines for everyday enjoyment: few wines offer this much distinctiveness, satisfaction, and deliciousness at such a paltry price tag. Pale green-gold in the glass, l’Idylle’s Cruet explodes with brisk green apple, Williams pear, and lemon-lime fruit accented by honeysuckle, fresh fennel, and wet stones. Bright and lively on the palate, notes of lemon zest, pear skin, and saline minerals accent the Cruet’s transparent core of orchard and citrus fruit. The wine finishes clean, brisk, bracing, and utterly delicious. We suggest offering this beauty year ’round as a crowd-pleasing aperitif or served as a lovely partner to shellfish, crustaceans, sashimi, and white-fleshed fish. It will also be a terrific choice with Savoyard cheeses such as raclette and Tomme de Savoie, fondues, scalloped potatoes, and grilled seasonal squashes.

2017 Francois Cazin, Cheverny, Le Petit Chambord, Loire Valley, France (O) 14.99/161.89

Francois Cazin’s Cheverny is the benchmark for the delicious and affordable Sauvignon Blanc-based wines from this increasingly important central Loire Valley appellation. Cazin’s 2017 Cheverny is based on a snappy core of grassy, mineral-driven Sauvignon Blanc (80%) with a dollop of Chardonnay added for richness and texture. In a classic Loire Valley vintage like 2017, this refreshing blend yields a wine with a bold, expressive, flinty soil-driven bouquet of white grapefruit, gooseberries, green plums, and basil. On the palate, Cazin’s 2017 Cheverny conveys delicious suggestions of green pineapple, Pippin apple, and grapefruit lifted by brisk acidity, basil, and smoky minerals. Reprises of juicy grapefruit and apple fruit join with notes of white pepper, crushed basil, and flinty minerals to highlight the wine’s long, refreshing finish. Very versatile with food, this impressive, affordable Cheverny will complement roasted pheasant, chicken, shellfish, freshwater fish dishes, fresh chevres, and light pork preparations. This is a wine to buy by the case to enjoy now and over the coming two years.

2015 Isabelle et Pierre Clement, Domaine de Chatenoy, Menetou-Salon, Loire Valley, France (S) 17.99/194.29

Isabelle and Pierre Clement represent the fourteenth generation of growers of the Domaine de Chatenoy in the eastern Loire region of Menetou-Salon. Just across the river from Sancerre and boasting the same Kimmeridgean limestone soils as its more famous neighbor, Menetou-Salon offers one of the Loire’s (and thus the world’s) greatest expressions of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The 2015 Chatenoy opens with a green-tinged straw-gold color and a piquant flint, mint, and gooseberry-driven Sauvignon Blanc nose. Musky lemon, green pineapple, and honeydew melon fruit impressions emerge on the palate alongside an electric blast of limestone and flinty terroir. The wine’s impeccable balance of ripeness and chalky soil follows through on the long, crisp, lemony finish. Serve this terrific Sauvignon Blanc with vegetarian pastas, all freshwater fish preparations, oysters on the half-shell, crab, and other seafood delicacies. Drink now or over the coming three years.

2015 Domaine Alain Chavy, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France (S) 21.99/237.49

Alain Chavy produces restrained, structured, long-lived white Burgundies from seventeen acres of vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Meursault. Chavy’s Bourgogne Chardonnay is made from young-vine Puligny-Montrachet, which is given a touch of new oak to enhance the wine’s elegant texture. Lemon-gold in the glass, Chavy’s Bourgogne Chardonnay opens with limestone-driven, Burgundian impressions of golden plums, apricots, lime marmalade, and sweet meadow flowers. The palate conveys Puligny’s tensile precision via juicy citrus and orchard fruit notes that mingle with fine-grained limestone minerality. The wine finishes suave, elegant and detailed, with further reprises of limestone minerality. Throughout, the wine gives a sense of purity, grace, and soil transparency rare for a Cote de Beaune blanc at such an affordable tariff. Very limited, so be sure to call early to secure your case of this beauty. Enjoy it now and over the coming five years with roast pork, veal, poultry, and gratin dauphinois. Very limited; 15 cases available.

2014 Joseph Burrier, Chateau de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuisse, Burgundy, France (S) 24.99/269.89 reg. 27.99

The Burrier family has been a prominent winegrowing presence in southern Burgundy since the 15th century, and have owned and farmed the esteemed Chateau de Beauregard estate in Pouilly-Fuisse for six generations. Burrier’s Pouilly-Fuisse – from the much-beloved 2014 white Burgundy vintage – sports a lovely pale lemon-gold color in the glass followed by aromas of flinty limestone, honeysuckle, apple blossoms, and lemon zest. On the palate, Burrier’s Pouilly-Fuisse bristles with energy and vibrant suggestions of green almonds, gardenia blossoms, lemon pith, and honeydew melon amplified by electric acidity and a vibrant undercurrent of saline oyster shell minerality. Old-vine suggestions of raw hazelnuts and lemon curd mark the wine’s long lip-smacking finish. Lithe and savory as befits the vintage, this is lovely, authentic, reasonably-priced white Burgundy to be enjoyed now and over the coming five years with salmon, pork, roast chicken, duck, boudin blanc, and light pork dishes. Limited.
Wine Spectator: 92 points

PORTUGAL

2016 Luis Pato, Vinhas Velhas, Vinho Branco, Vinho Regional Beira Atlantico, Portugal 17.99/194.29

Luis Pato, one of Portugal’s most inventive winemakers, issues this old-vine, floral, mineral-driven Vinho Branco from a blend of Bical (50%) planted on chalky-clay soil, and Cerceal and Sercialinho planted on sandy soil. Reflecting a green-glinted lemon oil hue in the glass, Pato’s Branco casts fascinating scents of talc, chalk, and sandy minerals infused in a kernel of pear and white peach. Fresh and invigorating, Pato’s Branco adds suggestions of lime leaf, honeysuckle blossom, and tarragon on the palate. Notes of clover honey, blond tobacco, and sea salt join reprises of complex minerality to complete the wine and leave that elusive, special, savory dusting of minerals on the lips and cheeks. Pair this beauty now and over the coming two years with steamed clams and mussels, vegetable and seafood paellas, salt-grilled prawns, grilled squashes, and lightly dressed salads.

SPAIN

2017 Pazo das Tapias, Godello Cepas Viejas, Finca os Cobatos, Monterrei, Galicia, Spain 13.99/151.09

The Monterrei D.O. borders Portugal in the southeastern corner of Spain’s Galicia province. Monterrei's inland location makes it warm and dry during summer, and this special climate results in fuller-bodied wines as compared with other sectors of Galicia. A brilliant gold in the glass, the Finca os Cobatos Cepas Viejas (old vine) cuvee bursts with floral aromas of honeysuckle and jasmine followed by nuances of green pineapple, Bartlett pear, and dusty minerals. Brisk and invigorating on the palate, the Finca os Cobatos seamlessly meshes citrus and orchard fruit flavors complicated by overtones of fresh ginger, bay leaf, and lemongrass. Impressive mid-palate intensity, zesty acidity, and a wonderful interplay among citrus fruit, pit fruit, minerality, and floral and herbal notes make this one of the best value white wines we’ve tasted from Monterrei. This is superb Godello that will prove a delicious partner now or over the next three years with squid a la plancha, broiled halibut, salt cod fritters, light vegetable tapas, and pastas tossed with olive oil and sauteed green vegetables.


ROSE WINE

FRANCE

2017 Chateau Font du Broc, Cotes de Provence, Rose, Provence, France (CO) 18.99/205.09

This is one heck of a fine rose from the spiritual home of the genre. A certified organic blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Rolle (Vermentino), Font du Broc’s rose is one of the palest, most beautifully colored and aromatic roses of the season. An ivory salmon-onion skin hue in the glass, Font du Broc’s 2017 rose casts beguiling scents of bitter orange zest, currants, wild Provencal garrigue, and arid, chalky earth. Lithe, lean, and refreshing on the palate, Font du Broc’s rose adds herb-tinged notes of Rainier cherries, Seville oranges, citrus blossoms, and saline minerals. The wine is impeccably balanced with a fleshy kernel of orchard fruits lifted by chalky minerals, zesty acidity, and a sprinkling of fresh Provencal herbs. With so many Provencal roses fetching historic price levels, this is your value play of the season. Buy a case to enjoy now and over the coming two years with sushi, sashimi, Mediterranean pasta preparations, barbecued chicken, broiled pork, and grilled seasonal vegetables.


SPARKLING WINE

FRANCE

NV Domaine des Baumard, Cremant de Loire Rose, Brut Extra, Loire Valley, France 29.99/323.89

Loire Valley superstar Florent Baumard crafts some of the most elegant and compelling sparkling wines outside of Champagne. Baumard’s Extra Brut Rose – a blend of Cabernet Franc (50%), Grolleau (30%), and Chardonnay – reflects a beautiful orange-tinged pink rose petal color and impressively persistent stream of tiny bubbles. Floral aromas emerge alongside impressions of blood oranges, dried herbs, and smoky minerals. Full and quite sumptuous on the palate, the wine’s mineral undercurrent and brisk acidity propel a kernel of cassis, pie cherry, and tart strawberry fruit. Baumard’s Cremant finishes long, floral, and satisfying, reprising the small berry fruit notes and the eastern Loire Valley’s complex, smoky soil signature. Enjoy this world-class sparkler as a toast to someone very special or as a lovely foil for salmon en papilotte, sushi, sashimi, seared ahi, and light pork and poultry preparations.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous: 90 points

LINER & ELSEN
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STORE HOURS:
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FRIDAY TASTINGS:

First and third Friday of the month - 5:30-7:30 p.m. Fee

Sept. 7 - The Greek Wine Revolution: It ain’t just Retsina!

Sept. 21 - Classic American Wines from California and Washington: 1993-2005

Oct. 5 - Great Syrahs from Washington



SATURDAY TASTINGS:

Weekly; 12-4:30 p.m. No fee

Sept. 1 - Great wines from France’s Loire Valley: Dom. des Baumard Cremant Rose Brut Extra, Francois Cazin Cheverny Le Petit Chambord, Isabelle et Pierre Clement Dom. de Chatenoy Menetou-Salon, and Dom. des Echardieres Le Becassou.

Sept. 8 - Touring France: From Burgundy: Dom. Alain Chavy Bourgogne Chardonnay, Joseph Burrier Ch. Beauregard Pouilly-Fuisse, and Dom. Michel Prunier Cote de Beaune-Villages. From the Savoie: Dom. de l’Idylle Cruet. From Bordeaux: Ch. Pique Caillou.

Sept. 15 - Wines from here and there: Cameron Reserve Pinot Noir (Oregon); Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Vinho Branco (Portugal); Pazo das Tapias Godello Cepas Viejas Finca os Cobatos (Spain); and Falchini Paretaio Rosso (Italy).

Sept. 22 - Superlative wines from the South of France: Ch. Font du Broc Rose, Olivier Pithon Mon P’Tit Pithon IGP, and Dom. le Couroulu Vacqueyras Cuvee Classique.

Sept. 29 - Pamela Lenzi from Petroio will be on hand to pour new vintages of the estate'slovely Chiantis.



SPECIAL EVENTS:

PAITIN WINE TASTING
with Luca Pasquero Elia

Weds. Sept. 19, 6:00 p.m.

Please join us for an informal tasting of superb Piemontese wines from Azienda Agricola Paitin with Luca Pasquero Elia, son and nephew of the wine makers and owners of this great estate. Reservations not necessary. Tasting fee: $10.


FATTORIA DI PETROIO TASTNG
W ith Pamela Lenzi

Sat. Sept. 29, 12-4 p.m.

Meet Pamela Lenzi from Fattoria Petroio, her family's historic estate in Tuscany, who will be here to share Petroio's gorgeous Chianti wines.


DROUHIN WINE DINNER
With Laurent Drouhin
at Bluehour Restaurant

Mon. Oct. 29, 6:45 p.m.

Please join us for an exciting evening, to dine and sample the great Burgundy wines of Maison Joseph Drouhin with our special guest, Laurent Drouhin. Our menu will be prepared and served at Portland's acclaimed Bluehour restaurant, located in the Pearl District at 250 NW 13th Ave.

Seating is limited. For reservations please contact Liner & Elsen, or reserve your seats online. $150 per person, all inclusive.


B = biodynamic methods; CO = certified organic; O = organic; S = sustainably farmed


© Liner & Elsen, all rights reserved. Information and prices apply during the current month only. Wine availability and prices are subject to quantity on hand. We are not responsible for mispriced items in the newsletter.