JANUARY 2022 REVIEWS

RED WINES

ITALY – RED

2019 Giuseppe Lonardi, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, Italy (O) 15.99 / 172.69

Few red wines satisfy or are as deliciously versatile (and underrated) as the great Corvina-based Valpolicellas from the Veneto. Lovingly tending a scant seventeen acres in the Valpolicella’s tenderloin Classico sector, father-and-daughter team of Giuseppe and Silvia Lonardi craft one of the region’s finest portfolios of Valpolicellas, Ripassos, and Amarones. Lonardi’s 2019 Valpolicella Classico – a traditional blend of Corvina (75%), Rondinella (20%), and Molinara – casts an orange-rimmed garnet color and a fresh bouquet of wild cherry, green peppercorns, bay leaf, rhubarb, and sweet tobacco. Lively and vibrant in the mouth, Lonardi’s Valpolicella deftly expresses the red-fruited clarity and understated complexity of a great Valpolicella with spicy pie cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate accented by suggestions of bitter orange zest, dried herbs, and earthy rhubarb. Notes of woodsy pipe tobacco, cinnamon, and lavender emerge on the wine’s long, zesty finish. We suggest pairing Lonardi’s Valpolicella with simple, satisfying foods like charcuterie, roast chicken, burgers, and vegetable pasta dishes. Drink now or over the next two years.

2020 Francesco Brigatti, Colline Novaresi, Uva Rara, Selvalunga, Piedmont, Italy (S) 16.99 / 183.49

Francesco Brigatti crafts classic expressions of Alto Piemonte Nebbiolo-based wines, as well as rare varietal bottlings of indigenous grapes such as Vespolina and Uva Rara. Uva Rara, known more famously as Bonarda, acquires the “rara” (sparse) designation in the Colline Novaresi due to the variety’s propensity to form unusually loose bunches with sparsely distributed grapes in each cluster. Brigatti’s 2020 Selvalunga presents a vivid red ruby hue followed by pure expressions of red raspberries, cherry skin, violets, and rosewater. Brisk and vigorous on the palate, the wine buoys its chewy kernel of earthy red fruits with shimmering acidity and fine, buffered tannins. The Selvalunga finishes savory and appetizingly bitter with reprises of tart cherry, cranberry, and raspberry fruit accented by impressions of tobacco, menthol, savory herbs, and rose-scented potpourri. Delicious, unusual, and thoroughly satisfying, this is must-try wine for all fans of northern Italian red wines. Pair this versatile wonder now and over the coming three years with just about anything except seafood.

2018 Benanti, Etna Rosso, Sicily, Italy (O) 19.99 / 215.89

Nobody has been more instrumental in Etna’s rise to international wine prominence than Dr. Giuseppe Benanti. The good doctor is widely credited for reviving Etna’s indigenous grape varieties and for raising the quality standard in this tradition-rich wine region. Based on a blend of Nerello Mascalese (80%) and Nerello Cappuccio, Benanti’s 2018 Etna Rosso offers a lovely crimson-garnet robe and piquant aromas of Morello cherries, pimento, cloves, orange zest, and dusty volcanic earth. On the palate, the Rosso presents elegant, transparent red cherry and black raspberry fruit alongside plentiful, fine, lip-dusting tannins, mouthwatering acidity and complex suggestions of orange peel, leather, cinnamon, and dried herbs. The Rosso’s long, satisfying finish delivers savory, spicy volcanic minerals that mingle with the wine’s spicy fruit core to create one of the most consistently delicious, affordable, and versatile Southern Italian wines on the market. Pulsing with energy, spice, and verve, enjoy this beauty now or over the coming five years as a lovely complement to dishes featuring rich tomato sauces, pine nuts, olive oil, and fennel.

2018 Tenuta di Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano, Tuscany, Italy (CO) 16.99 / 183.49

Carmignano is one of the most historic wine-growing regions in all of Italy, and one of the first to blend “international” varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon with the indigenous Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Established in 804 but dating from pre-Roman times, the Capezzana estate is the leading light of Carmignano. Reflecting an opaque Médoc-like black-plum core and ruby rim, Capezzana’s Barco Reale joyously conveys the warmth and generosity of Tuscany’s lovely 2018 vintage. A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Canaiolo, and Cabernet Franc, the wine fuses the earthy leather, plum, and cherry nuances of the dominant Sangiovese component with the cassis, cigar box, cedar, and lead pencil nuances of the Cabernets (which are said to have originated from the vineyards of the great Château Lafite-Rothschild in Pauillac). Fine tannins, lifting acidity, and hints of cinnamon, cloves, licorice, and sassafras join dusty soil notes and reprises of currant and cherry fruit on the Barco Reale’s long, lingering finish. This is a delicious rosso that expresses all the goodness and charm of a fine Carmignano in an approachable and affordable package. Enjoy now and over the coming five years with grilled steaks and burgers, braises of lamb and wild boar, and baked eggplant recipes.

2020 Il Molinaccio di Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulciano, Il Golo, Tuscany, Italy (O) 19.99 / 215.89

The organic and ecologically sensitive Il Molinaccio (watermill) estate hails from Southeastern Tuscany’s Montepulciano zone. Here the Sangiovese is called Prugnolo Gentile, and the wines are often warmer and more approachable than their more structured brethren from Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Il Molinaccio’s 2020 Rosso di Montepulciano casts a translucent ruby color in the glass followed by dusty, soil-driven Sangiovese aromas of Morello cherries, leather, tobacco, cinnamon, and dried rose petals. Fresh, vibrant, and youthfully coiled, the wine graces the palate with sappy bitter cherry and cranberry fruit infused with dusty limestone earth and complex hints of cedar, menthol, licorice, cinnamon, and tobacco. The Rosso finishes fresh and lively with fine tannins emerging to accent chewy notes of red licorice and tobacco while leaving that savory sensation of limestone dust on the lips and inner cheeks. This is fantastic, genre-defining Rosso di Montepulciano – and a splendid value – that will pair effortlessly now and over the coming four years with bucatini all’amatriciana, grilled porterhouse steaks, roast pork, sautéed mushrooms, and rich Tuscan bean stews.

FRANCE – RED

2019 Château Lestage-Darquier, Moulis-en-Médoc, Grand Poujeaux, Bordeaux, France (S) 21.99 / 237.49

The Grand Poujeaux’s soils of fine gravel over Garonne clay – made famous by the great Château Chasse-Spleen – are considered to be among the finest terroirs in the Médoc. Chateau Lestage-Darquier makes just one wine, an elegant cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (40%) and Cabernet Franc, and in the superb 2019 Médoc vintage, it’s a knockout! Lestage-Darquier’s cuvée opens with a classic young claret color in the glass and brilliant Médoc aromas of cassis, dried herbs, cedar, and cinnamon-scented potpourri. Bristling with energy, the wine juxtaposes bright red currant and raspberry fruit with complex suggestions of rose petals, camphor, tobacco, caramel, and brown spices. Plentiful fine tannins emerge as the wine transitions to its long, graceful, savory finish. This is superb claret that pulls off the rare feat of being delicious young and packed with the cedary, currant-rich complexity of a great Médoc. Ready for your table tonight, pair this terrific claret with hearty classic fare like burgers hot off the skillet, pan-seared pork chops, mac ‘n’ cheese, braised lentils, and grilled Portobello mushrooms. Enjoy now and over the next seven years.
James Suckling: 91-92 points

2019 Maison Fougeray de Beauclair, Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy, France (S) 23.99 / 259.09

The family-owned Maison Fougeray de Beauclair is situated in Marsannay-la-Côte, the northernmost village in Burgundy’s famed Côte d’Or. The estate’s terrific 2019 Bourgogne Rouge casts a brilliant gleaming purple-garnet robe in the bowl. At once both generous and soil-driven, the wine explodes with classic northern Côte-de-Nuits aromas of wild cherries, cranberries, leather, game, black tea, and vine smoke. On the palate the wine shows impressive clarity and terroir definition alongside vivid expressions of tangy red berry fruit, chewy tannins, bright limestone terroir, and brisk, palate-energizing acidity. Gamy, earthy, appetizingly herbal, and 100% delicious right out of the chute, this is a soulful, satisfying, and authentic expression of Burgundy’s esteemed Côte-de-Nuits priced for everyday enjoyment. Pair this beauty now and over the coming five years with roast game, pan-seared pork chops, seasonal squash dishes, and grilled sausages. A superb entry-level Bourgogne that performs like a great Marsannay!

2015 Château du Cayrou, Cahors, Southwestern France (CO) 18.99 / 205.09

The apex of Southwestern French red wines are those from the hallowed Cahors appellation. Historically considered a rival to the wines of Bordeaux, Cahors was devastated by the phylloxera epidemic that decimated most French vineyards in the mid- to late-1800s. Today the wines of Cahors are again being recognized for their distinctiveness, versatility, and impressive ability to age. Among Cahors’ top estates is the Château du Cayrou, whose wines offer incredible value and extraordinarily age-ability. A true, authentic expression of Cahors. Cayrou’s beauty – composed exclusively of 45-year-old Malbec – opens with meaty Bordeaux-like aromas of cassis, black raspberries, tobacco, and loamy earth. On the palate the wine’s shows an unusually lush and suave texture with only whispers of the Malbec’s traditional, palate-coating tannins. Suggestions of walnuts, wood smoke, tobacco, bitter orange, and blueberry mark the impressively long finish. 2015 is considered the greatest Cahors vintage since 2010, and we suggest enjoying this reference-standard Cahors now and over the next decade with roast goose, grilled ribeye steaks, braised short ribs, rich eggplant casseroles, and potatoes au gratin.

2019 Domaine la Roubine, Sablet, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, La Grange des Briguières, Southern Rhône Valley, France (CO) 19.99 / 215.89

In the fantastic 2019 Southern Rhône vintage, Roubine’s Sablet hits new heights. Situated on a north-facing vineyard at the foothills of Dentelles de Montmirail, Sablet is revered for its sandy clay soils that produce generous, precocious, mouth-filling wines. Domaine la Roubine’s cuvée of Grenache (70%), Syrah (25%), and Cinsault shines in the critically acclaimed 2019 vintage, casting a radiant, saturated ruby robe followed by classic Southern Rhône aromas of black cherries, cassis, garrigue, wintergreen, and vine smoke. Balanced yet coiled on the attack, infusions of lavender and aromatic herbs join with appetizing, stemmy tannins to accent and frame the dense core of cherry, plum, and black raspberry fruit. The Sablet finishes long, chewy, and full of energy, adding firm, gripping tannins and further accents of blackberries, cassis, herbs, tar, wild sage, leather, and tobacco. This is a terrific, savory, old-school Côtes-du-Rhône rouge that will satisfy the souls of Southern Rhône aficionados. Enjoy the wine now or over the coming five years with herb-crusted lamb, grilled burgers, ratatouille, rosemary-scented chicken, and hearty stews.

SPAIN – RED

2019 Can Sumoi, Penedès, Sumoll Garnatxa, Catalonia, Spain (CO) 19.99 / 215.89

The ancient Can Sumoi estate sits at nearly two thousand feet above sea level in the Penedès’s Massís del Montmel range. Sumoll is an ancient, nearly extinct red variety native to Catalonia, and one that seems to marry seamlessly with the noble Garnatxa (Grenache). Opaque plum-ruby in the glass, Can Sumoi’s Sumoll Garnatxa casts heady aromas of black plums, Bing cherries, licorice, stony soil, and black peppercorns. On the palate, the wine is pure and fruit-driven with loads of spice, cinnamon, plum, and cassis. Earthy complexity emerges on the palate, showing notes of cranberries, mint, Seville orange zest, and herbs, which combine with layers of chewy red fruit. Fine, food-friendly tannins sneak in mid-palate and segue the wine to its long, saturated, thoroughly satisfying finish. Enjoy this soulful, satisfying red now and over the coming two years with hearty fare like stews, duck confit, meat and potato tapas, grilled eggplant, seared hanger steaks, and roast lamb. (No added sulfur)

2019 Celler del Roure, Vermell, Valencia, Spain (CO) 17.99 / 194.29

Reviving ancient traditions, Celler del Roure organically cultivates indigenous Valencian varieties grown on clay, loam soils, and rocky limestone soils at nearly 2,000 feet above sea level. Also, in accordance with tradition, the grapes are fermented on their native yeasts and patiently aged in buried 17th century clay amphorae called tinajas. Celler del Roure’s Vermell – a fascinating autochthonous blend of Garnacha Tintorera (70%) and Mandó – simply explodes from the glass with a crimson-tinged plum hue and riveting aromas of black plums, bitter cherry skin, leather, and sweet cinnamon. Balancing fine tannins and superb tension, the Vermell accents its sappy kernel of red and black fruits with notes of licorice, dried herbs, and geranium petals. Loamy minerality and impressions of ferrous earth appear on the wine’s back-palate and segue it to its long, fresh, and food-friendly finish. An absolute steal in a full-bodied, fresh, and ready-to-drink organic red, pair Celler del Roure’s Vermell with full-flavored dishes such as burgers, grilled steaks, earthy mushroom recipes, lamb stew, and broiled eggplant topped with tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil.
Luis Gutiérrez, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 91 points

2017 Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España (C.V.N.E.), Crianza, Viña Real, Rioja, Spain 13.99 / 151.09

The Compañia Vinicola del Norte de España (C.V.N.E. or Cune) is one of the Rioja’s most venerable and heralded estates. Hailing from Rioja’s superb Alavesa sector, the estate features a classic Rioja recipe of Tempranillo (90%) accented by a blend of Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha Tinto. C.V.N.E.’s 2017 Viña Real reflects an opaque plum-ruby robe and deep aromas of spicy cherries, licorice, wood smoke, and chalky earth. At once both brisk and suave on the palate, the Viña Real presents a saturated kernel of dark cherry and cassis fruit framed by soft tannins and complex suggestions of tobacco, menthol, coconut husk, and smoky earth. Subtle Rioja barrel tones of vanilla, baker’s chocolate, and dark-roasted coffee transition the Viña Real to its long, dusty, savory finish. This is a deep, complex, and satisfying Rioja Crianza that is best paired with hearty fare like meat, eggplant and potato tapas, roast duck and lamb, braised rabbit, and juicy grilled burgers.
James Suckling: 93 points
Luis Gutiérrez, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 91+ points

PORTUGAL – RED

2019 Nao Condenado, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Palhete, Portugal (CO) 18.99 / 205.09

In the rural areas north of Lisbon, ancient “backyard” vineyards are being abandoned due to the advancing age of the owners and the next generation’s choice to pursue fortunes elsewhere. André Gomes, the winemaker at Quinta do Montalto, took action to save two legendary patches of 120- to 150-year-old vines. The winery’s Uncondemned cuvée (Não Condenado) employs the traditional Portuguese method called “palhete,” which ferments red and white grapes together to craft one delicious, aromatic, and utterly unique red wine. Fashioned from roughly equal parts of white Fernão Pires and red Trincadeira, the wine casts a translucent, crimson-ruby hue in the glass followed by opulent aromas of strawberries, boysenberries, figs, sweet cherries, jasmine, and pink peppercorns. Fresh, chewy, and peppery on the palate, cherry and tart raspberry fruit join infusions of dried herbs, peppered salumi, tamari, cinnamon, and honeysuckle. At once floral, opulent, tart, and ripe, the juxtaposition of these impressions and textures – alongside the sappiness of the old vine fruit – make this a natural partner for salumi, grilled meats, carnitas tacos, meat and potato tapas, and mild Chinese, Korean, and Vietnamese cuisines. Enjoy now and over the next two years.

WHITE WINES

OREGON – WHITE

2020 Twill Cellars, Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon (O) 21.99 / 237.49

Chris Dickson and Molly and Darrel Roby founded Twill Cellars to explore Oregon’s many unique wine terroirs. The trio works organically in the vineyard and performs minimal intervention in the winery with the goal of expressing the variations of land and vintages through the lenses of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Twill’s 2020 Chardonnay, raised in a combination of mostly neutral oak and concrete, casts a luminous lemon-gold hue in the glass. The wine opens to reveal aromas of sweet cinnamon, lemongrass, malt, and fresh savory. Sizzling with lemony acidity, the wine pierces the palate with waves of zesty citrus fruit, tart yellow plums, saline minerals, light barrel tones, and fresh ginger root. At a refreshing and lively 12 percent alcohol, this is Willamette Valley Chardonnay in its most citric and bristling form. Buy this terrific Willamette Valley Chardonnay by the case for enjoyment now and over the coming seven years with broiled salmon, freshwater fishes in a beurre blanc sauce, seafood stews, light poultry preparations, sautéed vegetables, and gratin dauphinois. As with all of Twill’s wines, this is a very limited production release, and we urge you to act fast, as this will sell out in a flash.

AUSTRIA – WHITE

2020 Malat, Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal, Furth, Austria (O) 18.99 / 205.09

Ninth-generation winemaker Michael Malat continues the family’s long viticultural tradition by crafting an impeccable portfolio of French and traditional Austrian varieties from many of the Kremstal’s finest vineyards. Malat fashions his Furth Grüner from rocky loess soils at the foot of the famed Göttweiger Berg on the southern bank of the Danube River. A brilliant green-gold robe in the glass, Malat’s Furth casts delicious Grüner aromas of sweet pea pods, Pippin apple skin, white grapefruit, lime zest and green peppercorns. Fresh and driven by saline minerals on the palate, the wine conveys the brilliance of the 2020 Kremstal vintage with crunchy, juicy expressions of lemon, lime, tart pineapple, papaya, and Mirabelle plum fruit accented by white pepper and a spicy lashing of deep, salty loess soil. Enjoy this delicious, balanced, and eminently quaffable Grüner now and over the coming two years by itself or alongside sautéed green vegetables, grilled zucchini, schnitzel, braised pork, antipasti, and roast chicken.
Stephan Reinhardt, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 90 points

SPAIN – WHITE

2019 Celler del Roure, Cullerot, Valencia, Spain (O) 18.99 / 205.09

Celler del Roure’s 2019 Cullerot (tadpole in Valencian dialect) is a blend of Pedro Ximénez (30%), Macabeo (30%), Malvasía, Tortosina, Verdil, Merseguera, and Chardonnay fermented on indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and finished in subterranean 17th century clay amphorae. Roure’s 2019 Cullerot casts a gleaming green-tinged lemon-gold from the glass followed by beguiling scents of green melon, lime zest, beeswax, aniseed, and wintergreen. Zesty and vibrant, the palate follows with suggestions of green pineapple, star fruit, and lime juice infused with fresh spearmint, bay leaf, and cardamom pods. The wine finishes delicious and resonant, with lingering suggestions of menthol and dried herbs. This is the finest Cullerot yet and a seamless partner for mildly spicy Indian and Asian cuisines, freshwater seafood preparations, grilled marinated chicken, tuna sashimi, and recipes spotlighting briny olives. Serve only slightly chilled now and over the coming three years.
Luis Gutiérrez, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 92 points

2020 Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (C.V.N.E.), Blanco Seco, Monopole, Rioja, Spain 10.99 / 118.69

The Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (C.V.N.E. or Cune) is one of the most venerable and heralded estates in Spain’s Rioja region. Their Monopole Blanco is Spain’s oldest white wine brand and a tribute to the nobility and versatility of Rioja’s great Viura grape. The 2020 Monopole is crafted from Viura grown on calcareous soils at 2,000 feet above sea level and fermented at cool temperatures to preserve freshness and acidity. The wine casts a brilliant pale lemon-gold color from the bowl with faint green glints. Fresh and perfumed, it offers beautiful aromas of white flowers, Bartlett pears, white grapefruit, honeydew melon, tarragon, and sweet almond flesh. Salty citrus fruit notes mark the wine’s crisp attack and segue it to a broad palate impression of pears, white currants, and limestone minerals. Electric citric acidity and a delicious quinine note follow on the long, stony finish. C.V.N.E.’s bone-dry Monopole shows Viura’s fresh, zesty facets and its limitless food versatility. Enjoy now and over the coming two years with sauteed green vegetables, jamón ibérico, trout amandine, broiled prawns, seared scallops, and citrus-driven ceviche.
Josh Raynolds, Vinous: 90 points

FRANCE – WHITE

2019 Domaine Couet, Côteaux du Giennois, Loire Valley, France (S) 13.99 / 151.09

The Côteaux du Giennois, situated in the Upper Loire zone between Orléans and Sancerre, shares the limestone and silex soils that make the great vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé famous. Having recently acquired the famed Domaine de Fontaine, Emmanuel and Claire Couet have doubled the size of their domaine, allowing their superb portfolio to finally reach our shores. The domaine’s 2019 Côteaux du Giennois Blanc opens with pure, pixelated aromas of gooseberry, ruby grapefruit, gunflint, mint, white pepper, and tarragon. Brisk acidity propels the wine’s kernel of pineapple, lemon, and lime fruit alongside expressions of fresh ginger and spearmint. Dusty, flinty minerals reemerge on the long, lemony finish to remind you that this wine could have come from nowhere but the natural home of Sauvignon Blanc: the eastern Loire Valley. An incredible value in authentic Sauvignon Blanc, this lip-smacking Loire Valley beauty is perfect served now and over the coming two years as an apéritif or paired with sautéed green vegetables, fresh oysters, clams, mussels, and freshwater fishes with a beurre blanc sauce.

2020 Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy, France (S) 13.99 / 151.09

Drouhin’s Bourgogne Blanc – sourced from select vineyards throughout the Bourgogne viticole – is the entrée to the Maison’s impeccable white wine portfolio. Like all Drouhin’s wines, this affordable offering effortlessly captures Burgundy’s inimitable clay and limestone minerality alongside a crisp expression of lemony Chardonnay fruit. A brilliant green-tinged lemon-gold color in the glass, Drouhin’s 2020 Bourgogne Blanc opens with elegant, classic white Burgundy aromas of raw hazelnuts, gardenia blossoms, Comice pears, lemon curd, and clay-limestone minerality. Deft and gracious on the palate, the Bourgogne Blanc gives us an early glimpse to the excellence of the 2020 white Burgundy vintage. Persistent limestone minerality infuses suggestions of yellow apple flesh, raw almonds, and preserved lemons. Crisp, focused, and delicious, the wine finishes with reprises of juicy Meyer lemons, sappy hazelnuts, white flowers, and a final wave of limestone minerals. It will also make a wonderful complement now and over the coming three years for roast chicken, broiled salmon, light pork preparations, roasted chicken, halibut, snapper, and potato-rich vegetarian fare.

ITALY – WHITE

2020 Benanti, Etna Bianco, Sicily, Italy (O) 19.99 / 215.89

Alongside Benanti’s superb 2018 Rosso above, we’re delighted to present the winery’s stellar 2020 Bianco, crafted from organic Carricante grown on the slopes of Mount Etna at nearly 3,000 feet above sea level. Benanti’s 2020 Bianco casts a luminous pale gold hue in the glass followed by complex notes of lemongrass, Asian pears, bitter melon, wild yeasts, and crushed, smoky volcanic minerals. On the palate, juicy acidity propels delicious expressions of Pippin apple skin, tart kiwi, bay leaf, and smoky volcanic soil. Benanti’s Bianco finishes clean and zesty, with a tactile mineral presence underpinning whispers of chamomile, Seville orange peel, and sappy lemon balm. Enjoy Benanti’s 2020 Bianco now and over the coming three years as an intriguing and attention-grabbing aperitif or serve it as a wonderful partner to white pastas, white pizzas, sautéed squashes, and all things seafood.

2020 ColleStefano, Verdicchio di Matelica, Marches, Italy (O) 15.99 / 172.69

Matelica is one of the two most famous zones for Verdicchio in the Marches region between Umbria and Italy’s Adriatic coast. Inland and boasting some of the Marches’ highest altitude vineyards, Matelica is renowned for Verdicchios that offer exquisite finesse, chalky minerality, and impressive nerve and drive. ColleStefano’s 2020 Verdicchio reflects a pale straw color and a chalky, limestone-driven nose of cedar, sunflowers, acacia, tart pineapple, and tarragon. Crystalline and focused on the palate, ColleStefano’s Verdicchio teems with suggestions of lemon zest, green apple flesh, sweet almond oil, and freshly grated ginger. Herbal and almond notes emerge on the wine’s long finish, followed by complex suggestions of honeysuckle blossoms, fresh fennel, and chalky mineral dust. Refined, elegant, and bursting with character, ColleStefano’s 2020 Verdicchio will prove a lovely choice wine for sipping by itself or for pairing with all types of seafood and vegetable dishes. Drink young to enjoy all the wine’s sappy, lip-smacking fruit. In our opinions, this is their finest bottling ever!
Eric Guido, Vinous: 91 points