Lyon is a city with some of France's best food and wine. A short drive to Beaujolais, to the Rhone, or to Savoie, the city lies at the hub of a trade route thousands of years old, and wine has been flowing since before the Romans came to town. In all that time, the wines of Lyon itself have never gained much prominence, but this appealing, even tempered Gamay suggests that there's potential for some very fine wine here.