The Aeolian Islands are a fascinating footnote to Sicily, a sprinkling of volcanic rock just north of the strait of Messina. The best known of them is Lipari, where most of the people live and where most of the vineyards are. Tenuta di Castellaro was founded in 2005 by Massimo Lentsch and Stefania Frattolillo, who spared no expense to build what is today the most important winery on the island. The winery only works with native varieties, and all their vines are trained on individual stakes, a labor intensive method that maximizes each vine’s exposure to sunshine. The Porticello cuvee, named for a famous Lipari beach, is made from three parts Carricante and two parts Moscato. These are two popular grapes in Sicily, but on this tiny offshore island they have a strong and distinct personality. Aromas come fast and furious of pineapple and ginger, tangerine and orange flower, cinnamon and Thai curry spices and salt. The palate also has a salt rim, with fresh squeezed orange juice and pineapple alongside smoky soil-driven minerality and lemon balm. Full bodied, with bouncy acidity and salty finish. Order up a halibut, lobster, or at least a full flavored black cod dish.