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OUR TOP PICKS OF 2021
It's
official! The staff voted, and here are our twelve favorite
wines of 2021
NOTE: Availability and prices may have changed since the
publication date (Jan. 2022)
WHITE
WINES
 2019
Chao do Prado Bucelas ... 14.99 / 161.89
An
October 2021 newsletter selection
Bucelas
is a tiny white wine denomination just north of Lisbon which
features the indigenous Arinto as its flagship varietal. Respected
for its high acidity and subtle aromatic profile, Arinto –
thanks to conscientious growers like António João
Paneiro Pinto – is once again commanding the prestige
it enjoyed in times past. The Chão do Prado Bucelas
is crafted from Arinto (85%) and Sercial fermented on ambient
yeasts in stainless steel to capture the varieties’
subtle aromatic nuances. A medium lemon-gold in the glass,
the wine casts zesty aromas of papaya, apricot, and salted
lemons. The Bucelas’ brisk and zesty palate adds notes
of honeysuckle blossoms, grapefruit, green pineapple, and
Key lime underpinned by zippy acidity and a persistent saline
mineral undercurrent. Long and delicious, the finish is clean
and fresh with reprises of orchard and citrus fruits infused
with limestone minerality and salinity from the nearby Atlantic
Ocean. Enjoy this rare Portuguese wonder with all things seafood,
sautéed zucchini, fresh chèvres, or as a satisfying
conclusion to a hard day’s work. Staff pick!
 2019
Terlano Terlaner 2019 ... 22.99 / 248.29
A
November 2021 newsletter selection
In
the foothills of the Alps near Italy’s border with Austria,
we find the delicious confluence of classic French varieties,
Italian boldness, and Austrian precision. Fashioned from a
century-old blend of Pinot Blanc (60%), Chardonnay (30%),
and Sauvignon Blanc, the Cantina Terlano’s Terlaner
opens with a lemon-gold color and resinous aromas of Golden
Delicious apples, white peaches, pineapple, lemon balm, matcha
green tea, mint, and smoky limestone soil. The Terlaner cuvée
conveys impressive breadth and texture, refreshingly fusing
Pinot Blanc’s structure and smokiness with Chardonnay’s
richness and Sauvignon Blanc’s unbridled herbal nature.
Fresh and pure as the Alpine air from which it emerges, the
Terlaner graces the palate with nuances of fresh white meadow
flowers, crystalline apple, peach and passion fruit, pine
nuts, and a bracing spine of smoky, mineral-driven acidity.
The wine finishes as clean and complex as it started and will
surely wow fans of Alsatian Pinot Blanc, Austrian Grüner
Veltliner, Pouilly-Fumé and other racy, incisive white
wines. Enjoy now and over the next three to ten years with
fresh goat cheeses, brook trout, light pork sausages, roast
turkey, asparagus, green vegetable frittata, and myriad seafood.
James Suckling: 93 points
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: 92+ points
 2020
Atalier Rias Baixas Albarino "A Cruz das Animas"
... 27.99 / 302.29
A
September 2021 newsletter selection
Raúl
Pérez’s bottling, A Cruz das Ánimas (crossroads
of the soul), shows the incredible heights that old-vine Albariño
can reach when treated with the respect, care, and patience
it deserves. The Atalier Albariño hails from a trio
of vineyards within a kilometer of the coast that survived
the phylloxera crisis of the late 19th century. This makes
them some of the oldest ungrafted vitis vinifera plantings
in the world, estimated to be somewhere around 150 years old.
The wine reflects a lovely pale lemon-gold color in the glass
followed by penetrating aromas of white flowers, cinnamon,
grapefruit, and saline minerals. Pérez balances the
texture imparted by neutral barrel fermentation and ageing
by blocking the malolactic conversion. This provides an impressive
palate presence while conveying complex impressions of salted
fennel, white peaches, lime zest, and wild herbs. Floral,
saline, and packed with juicy citrus fruit pulp, the wine
finishes with complex hints of chamomile, preserved lemon,
briny kelp, and white pepper. This is superb, genre-defining
Albariño that will pair nicely now with sauteed asparagus
and green vegetables, and with all things seafood. The wine
of the newsletter! Limited: only ten cases available.
 2019
Iacopo Paolucci Trebbiano Il San Ponziano ... 19.99 / 215.89
A
December 2020 newsletter selection
Focusing
exclusively on indigenous Umbrian varieties, Iacopo Paolucci
combines organic winegrowing with gentle winemaking to craft
this superb Trebbiano Spoletino. A deep straw gold in the
bowl, Paolucci’s Il San Ponziano casts crisp, high-altitude
aromas of fresh apricots, persimmon, hops, and iodine. Bright
and bracing on the fore-palate, the Trebbiano’s rich
texture on the palate reflects the four days spent on the
lees, expressing nuances of lime zest, tangerine, Asian pear,
and fresh rosemary. A persistent marine mineral undercurrent
runs through the wine and segues it to a juicy and lingering
finish. Truly delicious, versatile, and filled with character
(like their superb Grechetto de Todi) Paolucci’s Il
San Ponziano will work fantastically as an attention-grabbing
starter white or, ideally, as a partner to prosciutto di Parma,
pork pates and terrines, braised lentils, vegetable-based
risottos, and linguine with a white clam sauce. Enjoy now
and over the coming two years. Fantastic wine!
 2019
Orgo Teleda Dila'O Kakheti Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane ... 15.99 /
172.69
A June 2021 newsletter selection
One
of the hottest categories in fine wine today is skin-contact
white wines – sometimes called orange wines or amber
wines – fermented, macerated, and aged in large clay
amphorae. The Republic of Georgia is, according to most historians,
the birthplace of wine, and has a long tradition of crafting
wines in this manner. In Georgia, the amphorae are called
qvevri, and the grapes are primarily Rkatsiteli and
Mtsvane. This month, we are again delighted to feature Teleda’s
Dila'o, a superb and affordable example of the amber wine
genre. Reflecting a brilliant amber robe, Teleda’s Dila'o
presents captivating aromas of apricots, cinnamon, honeycomb,
bay leaf, pine resin, and malted barley. The wine’s
fleshy palate conveys a panoply of dried apricot, ripe pear,
yellow apple, and cantaloupe fruit. Rich on the attack yet
light on the palate, the wine compliments its orchard fruit
core with dry, savory tannins framing suggestions of agave
nectar, fenugreek, and acacia honey. A terrific and authentic
introduction to Georgia’s fascinating ancient winemaking
tradition, Teleda’s Dila'o will prove a lovely partner
for pan-fried trout, roast chicken, potato tapas, sausages,
savory bean stews, mature cheeses, goulash, and dishes featuring
fresh paprika.
Wine & Spirits, 92 points
RED WINES
 2020
Angelo Negro Rosso ... 17.99 / 194.29
A
July 2021 newsletter selection
The
Roero’s great Negro estate traces its origins back to
1670. Owning some of the Roero’s most desirable vineyard
sites, Negro is one of the indisputable legends of the region.
Giovanni Negro, the estate’s present owner, is one of
the first producers in the Roero to be certified organic –
a rarity in this sector of Piemonte. Reflecting a gorgeous
rose-petal garnet hue, Negro’s Vino Rosso is crafted
exclusively from the unheralded Brachetto grape (rumored to
be the wine of choice of Cleopatra and brought to her by Marc
Antony and Julius Caesar to order to gain her favor). Packed
with pie cherry, cranberry, and black raspberry fruit, Negro’s
Vino Rosso leverages the Brachetto’s unbridled aromatic
nature to unleash beguiling expressions of rose petals, violets,
tart strawberries, bitter orange zest, Earl Grey tea, sweet
herbs, and sandy minerals. Utterly delicious, this is your
wine to pair – lightly chilled or at cool cellar temperature
– with spicy and smoky meats, barbecued chicken and
ribs, piquant kebabs, peppery salumi, vegetable antipasti,
and marinated mushrooms. You’ve got to try a bottle
of this wine! Enjoy now. Now! Now! Now!
 2016
Eraldo Borgogno Barolo Vignane ... 41.99 / 430.82
A
January 2021 newsletter selection
This
is exhilarating Barolo from a tiny and rare cru that deserves
its exalted reputation. Rated “outstanding” by
Antonio Galloni, the Vignane cru is superbly situated between
Cannubi and Bussia in the heart of the traditional Barolo
zone. Wines from the Vignane cru are renowned for their purity
of fruit, expressive aromatics and soft tannins. Eraldo Borgogno’s
Vignane reflects a transparent garnet hue gradating to a gorgeous
amber rim. Immediately expressive, the wine radiates aromas
of licorice, dried rose petals, wild cherries, and red currants.
Fresh and invigorating, the wine stains the palate with cherry
and loganberry fruit accented by complex undertones of sassafras,
cedar, shiitake mushrooms, and clay. Fine, framing tannins
usher the Vignane to a long, classic Barolo finish of menthol,
licorice, brown spices, white pepper, and mushroomy underbrush.
Pair this beauty now and over the coming two decades with
traditional Piemontese cuisine such as risotto con funghi,
tajarin topped with a hearty ragù and shaved truffles,
or slow-braised oxtail. Only 400 cases produced…for
the world!
 2015
Chateau du Cayrou Cahors ... 18.99 / 205.09
A
December 2021 newsletter selection
The
apex of Southwestern French red wines are those from the hallowed
Cahors appellation. Historically considered a rival to the
wines of Bordeaux, Cahors was devastated by the phylloxera
epidemic that decimated most French vineyards in the mid-
to late-1800s. Today the wines of Cahors are again being recognized
for their distinctiveness, versatility, and impressive ability
to age. Among Cahors’ top estates is the Château
du Cayrou, whose wines offer incredible value and extraordinarily
age-ability. A true, authentic expression of Cahors. Cayrou’s
beauty – composed exclusively of 45-year-old Malbec
– opens with meaty Bordeaux-like aromas of cassis, black
raspberries, tobacco, and loamy earth. On the palate the wine’s
shows an unusually lush and suave texture with only whispers
of the Malbec’s traditional, palate-coating tannins.
Suggestions of walnuts, wood smoke, tobacco, bitter orange,
and blueberry mark the impressively long finish. 2015 is considered
the greatest Cahors vintage since 2010, and we suggest enjoying
this reference-standard Cahors now and over the next decade
with roast goose, grilled ribeye steaks, braised short ribs,
rich eggplant casseroles, and potatoes au gratin.
 2019
La Miraja Grignolino d'Asti ... 18.99 / 205.09
A
March 2021 newsletter selection
The
singular wines of La Miraja have heretofore been impossible
to find in the United States. The estate is nestled within
the original castle of Castagnole Monferrato, constructed
in the 11th century. It is here that Eugenio Gatti devotes
his life’s work to producing 840 transcendent cases
of wine each year. Grignolino is one of the true wonders of
the wine world. Like Poulsard, it’s too pale to be a
proper “red” wine, and too dark to be a classical
rosé. The truth is that Grignolino gives an utterly
unique and compelling wine that easily serves both purposes.
La Miraja’s Grignolino reflects a pale, transparent
amber-rimmed garnet robe and gorgeous aromas of rose petals,
geranium, tart pie cherries, and pomegranate seeds. Fresh
and invigorating on the palate, the wine frames its pure red-fruited
kernel with plentiful fine tannins and spine-tingling acidity.
Floral notes of rose petals and rosehips join a subtle note
of morel mushroom and an undercurrent of dusty limestone minerality
on the long, thrilling finish. We are enthusiastic fans of
the noble Grignolino, and we encourage you to pair this reference-setting,
artisanal rendition now and over the coming five years with
vegetable, seafood and mushroom risottos, roast chicken and
duck, savory vegetable medleys, broiled salmon, and pan-seared
pork chops.
 2017
Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico ... 27.99 / 302.29
A
November 2021 newsletter selection
Chianti
Classico does not get any better – or any more traditional
– than this. Bastions of tradition, the Castell’in
Villa domaine issues a complete portfolio of the most old-school,
long-lived Chiantis from its vineyards in Chianti Classico’s
southernmost Castelnuovo Berardenga zone. An absolute winner
from the moment it’s poured, the 2017 Chianti Classico
sports a crimson-ruby hue and warm Chianti aromas of macerated
cherries, cedar, woodspice, and leather. The wine continues
with a firm red-fruited palate expression accented by an electric
current of dusty, chalky soil. Suggestions of Montmorency
cherries, pomegranate, and red plums grace the palate before
segueing to complex hints of tobacco, sage, licorice, wintergreen,
and dried bay leaf. Graceful yet firmly tannic on its long
finish, Castell’in Villa’s Chianti announces that
it is first and foremost a food wine and should be paired
with hearty, rustic fare like rich pasta dishes, roasts of
lamb or beef, or long simmered stews. Drink now to reminisce
about the way great, age-worthy Chianti used to be, and then
age some bottles long enough to last you six to nine years.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous: 92 points
 2019
Luis Seabra Douro Tinto Xisto Ilimitado ... 26.99 / 291.49
A
November 2021 newsletter selection
After
a decade as Niepoort’s winemaker, Luis Seabra founded
his own domaine to craft wines “that really tell you
where they come from...wines that are true and honest, raw,
and pure.” Primarily a blend of old-vine Touriga Franca,
Tinta Amarela, and Tinta Roriz grown on yellow schist soil
at 1,200-2,000 feet, Seabra’s Xisto Ilimitado casts
an opaque plum color in the bowl followed by pungent, soil-driven
aromas of bitter cherries, cassis, violet petals, and smoky
schistose minerals. The wine’s high-altitude origins
impart impressive lift on the palate while also packing a
mouthful of concentrated currant, cherry, and cranberry fruit.
Zesty, refreshing, and full of flavor, Seabra’s Xisto
Ilimitado finishes with a persistent lashing of dusty schistose
minerals (hence the name), plentiful, food-friendly tannins,
and hints of dried herbs, licorice, and black tea. Enjoy now
and over the coming seven years with roast rack of lamb, grilled
burgers, braised rabbit, and mushroom and potato tapas. Limited.
 2017
Biscarelle Cotes du Rhone ... 15.99 / 172.69
A
September 2021 newsletter selection
This
is a deep, resinous, and complete Côtes-du-Rhône
Villages, and one that delivers old-school Southern Rhône
authenticity and goodness way beyond its price tag. Domaine
de la Biscarelle’s Côtes-du-Rhône Villages
is fashioned from 40- to 70-year-old vines abutting the northwestern
sector of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Essentially a baby Châteauneuf,
the Biscarelle’s core is predominantly Grenache, accented
by Syrah and Carignan with a dollop of Cinsault thrown in
for extra complexity. A deep, opaque black plum color in the
glass, the wine opens with exhilarating Châteauneuf-like
aromas of Provençal cherries complimented by hints
of cinnamon, cloves, freshly cracked black pepper, licorice,
and orange zest. Deep, chewy, and satisfying on the palate,
plentiful tannins frame the wine’s kernel of black currant
and black cherry fruit followed by a persistent parched-stone
soil signature that segues the wine to its long, lingering
finish. We suggest buying this by the case for enjoyment now
and over the next ten years with roast herbed leg of lamb,
dishes featuring porcini mushrooms, anchovy-rich tapenades,
and bean-rich cassoulets. |