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FEATURED
RED WINES: |
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2010 Chais Saint-Laurent, Chinon,
La Vigne en Véron, Loire
Valley, France ... 10.99/117.50
As much as we love to pontificate
about the intricacies of one wine
versus another, we also love to
take a bottle home to simply enjoy.
This is such a wine. While Chinon
can be a very serious, ageworthy
wine, it can also delight with
immediate and uncomplicated charms.
Chais Saint-Laurent’s Chinon
hails from clay, limestone and
gravel soils that tend to produce
wines that are a bit more approachable
when young. Limpid ruby in the
bowl, the wine shows textbook
Chinon aromas of raspberries,
leather, gravelly soil and fresh
herbs. Soft and approachable,
the wines dusty soil signature
merges with a kernel of fresh
red fruits, leafy tobacco, lip-smacking
tannins and lilting acidity. Delicious
beyond a reasonable doubt, each
sip makes you want to take another
bite of pan-seared pork chops,
roast chicken or hamburger. Isn’t
that what wine is really all about?
Few wines satisfy like this at
such a happy price. |
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2009 Espelt, Garnacha, Old Vines,
Empordà, Cataluña,
Spain ... 11.50/123.00
In the far northeastern corner
of Spain where the Pyrenees
meet the Mediterranean, the
Empordà D.O. employs
Garnacha and Carineña
to fashion bold, deeply-colored
red wines. From organic vines
dating to 1920 planted on granite
and slate, Espelt’s Garnacha
casts a plum-ruby color followed
by aromas of juicy plums and
sun-warmed cherries. Lush on
the attack, Espelt’s Garnacha
projects fine buffered tannins
mid-palate to frame the wine’s
palate-staining core of plum
and boysenberry fruit. Spicy
and gamy on the finish, waves
of plummy Garnacha fruit interweave
with suggestions of smoky granite
terroir. Deep, delicious and
eminently affordable, this is
a great substitute for pricier
Vacqueyras or Gigondas and a
natural companion for hearty
everyday fare like burgers,
lamb and beef stews, roast pork
and eggplant-rich ratatouille.
Enjoy now and over the next
three years.
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2010
Eugène Carrel, Gamay,
Vin de Savoie-Jongieux, Cuvée
Prestige, Vieilles Vignes,
Savoie, France ... 14.99/160.00
Carrel’s 2010 Gamay,
from vines averaging forty
years, comes across as a sensational
fusion of fresh cru Beaujolais
fruit and the glacial limestone
mineral signature that graces
the finest of Savoie’s
wines. A bright ruby robe
leads to aromas of freshly
crushed pie cherries, red
raspberries and limestone
dust. Vibrant the instant
it hits your palate, the Gamay
alternates waves of succulent
cherry fruit, limestone minerality
and bristling acidity. Nervy,
sinewy and yet completely
satisfying, Carrel’s
Jongieux finishes refreshingly
tannic and brimming with energy.
Choose this as your versatile
winter red with all sorts
of poultry and game birds.
It will also pair nicely with
light beef and pork dishes,
as well as pastas dressed
in rich cream sauces. Drink
now and over the next three
years. Fabulous wine!
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FEATURED
WHITE WINES: |
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2010
Giordano Lombardo, Gavi di Gavi,
Vigne di San Martino, Piedmont,
Italy ... 13.99/149.50
This is an impressive, biodynamically-grown
Cortese from prime vineyards
just outside the medieval village
of Gavi. Casting a pale straw-gold
robe in the glass, Lombardo’s
Gavi conveys an aromatic spectrum
far beyond what we might expect.
Hints of white flowers, acacia
and honeysuckle combine with
a palate rich with lemon, lime
and melon fruit. Bright mineral
suggestions emerge and amplify
the wine’s energetic citrus
mid-palate. Sweet pear fruit
segues the wine to its long,
mineral-filled finish. Gavi
can often be innocuous and expensive.
This wine is outstanding, affordable,
and bristling with energy, character
and minerality. Serve as an
aperitif and also as a complement
to freshwater fish preparations,
oysters on the half-shell, sushi,
ceviche, crab and green vegetable
frittatas. It will also complement
buttery and semi-firm cheeses.
This is reference-standard,
show-stopping Gavi.
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2009
Domaine des Forges (Vignoble
Branchereau), L’Audace,
Anjou, Loire Valley, France
... 12.99/139.00
Following our customers’
accolades for Domaine des
Forges’ sensational
Chardonnay, we’re delighted
to present the domaine’s
dry Chenin Blanc from vines
around the village of Saint
Aubin de Luigné. Like
the brilliant Chardonnay,
this wine is infused with
the inimitable schistose terroir
of the Anjou. Also like the
Chardonnay, the Chenin here
acts merely as a conduit through
which the Anjou’s great
terroir speaks. Limpid lemon-gold
in the glass, the l’Audace
casts smoky, soil-driven aromas
of pear, quince and Crenshaw
melon. Full and plump on the
palate, the wine’s buttery
Chenin fruit is lifted and
amplified by riveting acidity
and undercurrents of terroir.
Long, lingering and complex,
the wine finishes with further
suggestions of tangerine,
pear butter and green tea.
A terrific accompaniment to
fish dishes in beurre blanc,
plump, buttery, not-to-saline
raw oysters, light veal and
pork recipes, and savory winter
squash preparations.
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2010
Fattoria Laila, Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi, Marches, Italy
... 8.99/96.00
Verdicchio is central Italy’s
most distinctive white varietal
and one of our perennial favorites.
Fattoria Laila lies in the rolling
hills of Italy’s Marches
region overlooking the Adriatic
Sea. Thanks to dense plantings,
reduced yields and careful viticulture,
Fattoria Laila’s 2010
Verdicchio captures vividly
the smoky, herbal and mineral
facets of this most complex
and under-appreciated grape.
Laila’s 2010 Verdicchio
casts a green-tinged lemon gold
color from the glass and complex
aromas of lemon curd, honeydew
melon and smoky minerals. On
the palate, the Verdicchio’s
bracing acidity lifts and heightens
suggestions of Comice pear,
green melon and papaya infused
by an undercurrent of smoky
minerals. Hints of lime zest,
breadfruit and smoky peat emerge
on the wine’s long juicy,
mineral-laden finish. Serve
this classic, affordable white
wine now or over the coming
year with light pork preparations,
freshwater fish dishes, grilled
squashes, fresh cheeses and
frittatas featuring onions,
potatoes and zucchini.
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2010 Bénédicte
et Hubert Montigny-Piel, Clos Saint
Fiacre, Rosé, Orléans,
Loire Valley, France ... 12.50/133.50
It takes a lot of chutzpah to feature
a rosé in the heart of winter.
Fortunately wines such as this offer
so much pleasure and versatility
that they defy the season. (Besides,
Eric Asimov of the New York Times
has made it chic to drink rosés
all year long!) The grapes for this
little wonder: the Pinots Meunier,
Gris and Noir. The soil: sand mixed
with clay. The result: magical.
Pale salmon-orange in the bowl,
the rosé casts aromas that
suggest dried orange peel, watermelon
rind and sandy terroir. Effusively
mineral on the palate, the wine
alternates waves of clay and sandy
soil with whispers of persimmon,
watermelon and bitter orange fruit.
Juicy, affordable and ineffably
delicious, the biggest decision
you’ll have to make is whether
to enjoy it by itself or pair it
with the myriad choices that enhance
its deliciousness. Drink now and
over the coming year with steelhead,
salmon, ahi tuna, sushi, sashimi,
fresh chèvres, chicken, duck,
rabbit, game birds, and not-too-sweet
winter squash recipes. Superb, distinctive
rosé.
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DATEBOOK:
Special Events
at L&E
Coming in 2012 |
| WOODWARD
CANYON WINERY
Tasting With Rick Small
- Tues. Jan. 17, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
Meet
Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Wines
- Mon. Jan. 30, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
A
Tasting with Neal Rosenthal of Rosenthal
Wine Merchant - Tues. Feb.
7, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
NEW
DATE:
Port
Tasting with Rupert Symington
- Mon. Feb. 6, 6:15-7:30 p.m.
Burgundy
Taste with Luc Bouchard of Bouchard
Père & Fils
- Tues. Feb. 21, 6:30-7:30 p.m.
AUSTRIAN
WINE SEMINARS
With Brian Martin of Galaxy Wines
- Weds. Feb. 15 and Feb. 22, 6:30
p.m.
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