2006 Jérôme Calmes, Minervois, Les Vialas, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 11.50/123.00
In the hinterlands of the Languedoc lies the ancient village of Minervois and its fabled rugged terrain. Minervois’ arid climate, high altitude and rocky soils produce wines renowned for the excellence, character and value relative to their southern French peers. From Les Vialas, one of Minervois’ most prestigious crus, Jérôme Calmes had fashioned a textbook expression of the region’s rustic, hearty and delicious rouges. Opaque black-plum in the glass, Calmes’ Les Vialas casts aromas blackberry and black plum fruit infused with tarry garrigue notes of juniper and sage. Sappy on the palate and brimming with blackberry and black currant fruit, the wine transitions mid-palate to reveal fine tannins and complex notes of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. Juicy and briskly acidic, the wine finishes clean and ready for pairing now and over the next three years with grilled rack of lamb, burgers, garlicky ratatouille and grilled sausages. This is a terrific value for a first-rate Minervois.

2008 Ayres, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 19.99/213.50
In a very short time, Ayres Vineyard has become a major player in the Oregon wine scene by fashioning juicy, delicious, handcrafted Pinots at very sensible prices. The winery’s 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot is a blend of Dijon clones from Ayres’ Ribbon Ridge estate accented by old-vine fruit from the Eola Hills. The result is one of the most lively and deliciously accessible 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs we’ve yet tasted. A deep ruby color in the glass, the Ayres opens with snappy aromas of loganberries, cinnamon-tinged cherries and perfumed soil. Showing the balance and grace of the great 2008 Willamette Valley vintage, the Ayres Pinot continues with further waves of ripe berry fruit accented by a lovely earthy soil streak and framed by firm acidity and modest, round tannins. Lilting, elegant and delicious right out of the chute, enjoy this splendidly balanced, fruit-forward Oregon Pinot over the next two years with grilled salmon, grilled chicken, boudin blanc and everyday fare like burgers and pork chops.

2007 Eyrie Vineyards, Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon 12.50/133.50
Jason Lett is now confidently in charge at the pioneering winery founded by his legendary father. True to his father’s legacy, Jason continues to fashion elegant wines of purity, restraint and versatility at the table. Lett’s ’07 Pinot Blanc is an instant classic, fusing the golden richness of the finest Alsatian Pinot Blancs with food-friendly crispness and freshness. Straw-gold in the glass, Lett’s Pinot Blanc first entices with a smoky bouquet of chamomile and white tea. On the palate, the wine fuses Pinot Blanc’s natural fleshy pear fruit with a spicy edge, citrus zestiness and smoky minerality. Zippy and bursting with character, this classic Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc should be enjoyed now and over the coming five years with sautéed halibut, sashimi, blanquette de veau, mussels, clams and fresh oysters.

2007 Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Burgundy, France 15.99/171.00
In the world of fine white Burgundy, the brothers Matrot issue some of the finest Meursaults and Puligny-Montrachets from their superb vineyards in Charmes, Perrières, Combettes, etc. We love Matrot’s wines and know that they age better and longer than some of the more recognizable names. From vines near Meursault proper, Matrot’s Bourgogne Chardonnay transcends its humble designation. A lovely straw-gold in the glass, the Bourgogne Chardonnay explodes with aromas of buttery lemon curd and dissolved limestone minerals. On the palate the wine is brisk, combining bracing acidity and a lashing of dissolved minerality with laser-like precision and deft balance. The faintest hints of vanilla bean and caramel sneak in as the wine transitions to its long lemon and mineral finish. This is a superb full-bodied white Burgundy that will work well at the Thanksgiving table and well into the next three years with broiled halibut, light poultry dishes and lighter roast pork preparations.

NV Rive della Chiesa Prosecco Brut, Montello e Colli Asolani, Veneto, Italy 13.50/144.50
Prosecco, the great sparkling wine sensation of Italy’s Veneto region, is rarely as fine, delicate and delicious as this fresh bottling from Rive della Chiesa. Here we have a Prosecco of delicacy, crispness and unusually fine effervescence. Fruity on the nose yet brisk on the palate, Rive della Chiesa’s Brut is everything Prosecco is supposed to be, yet so rarely is. Pale lemon-gold in the flute, the wine casts aromas of peaches, sweet lemon curd and hints of toast. Balanced, dry and undeniably delicious, this is a sparkling wine of value, refreshment and versatility. Great for holiday toasts and as a delicious aperitif, it will also complement your Thanksgiving turkey or Tofurkey, as well as the myriad of freshwater fish and light vegetable preparations. Enjoy now, frequently throughout the holidays, and well into the New Year.

NV Claude Genet, à Chouilly, Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France 39.99/427.00
Claude Genet is a genuine, card-carrying participant in the Grower Champagne movement. Genet, however, keeps a low profile and receives little fanfare in the wine press. This sneaky little fact is great news for us cost-conscious Champagne lovers, as this is one heckuva fine example of grand cru blanc de blancs fizz at an unbeatable price. Pale lemon-gold in the glass, Genet’s blanc de blancs offers classic aromas of wheat biscuits, lemon curd and yeasty brioche. Brisk on the palate with abundant mousse, tiny bubbles, plush palate presence, gorgeous lemony fruit and a persistent undercurrent of smoky, chalky terroir, this is the real deal in handcrafted Champagne. Fresh and brisk, serve this with just about anything but the reddest of meats. The wine drinks great now but is poised for another three to five years of positive evolution in your cool cellar. Grab a case now for this year’s holidays and for enjoyment over the next five years.

NV Domaine des Baumard, Crémant de Loire, Carte Turquoise Brut, Loire Valley, France 18.99/203.00
This perennial favorite sparkling wine from the Loire Valley is back. Domaine des Baumard’s Carte Turquoise offers aromas of brioche, chamomile, apples and ginger, adding a deep, earthy soil signature all its own. The Carte Turquoise’s attack is rich and creamy, gentler and more velvety than most sparkling wines. Mid-palate, the wine gains weight and richness without losing focus or vivacity. On the finish, notes of lemon, chamomile, wet straw and toast make the Turquoise perhaps the most complex and satisfying bubbly for the money.

2007 Guigal, Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Southern Rhône Valley, France 13.99/149.50
The great Guigal estate fashions the Rhone Valley’s most expensive wines and some of its finest values. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône Blanc reaches new heights in the classic, elegant 2007 vintage. A lovely lemon gold in the glass, Guigal’s ingenious blend emphasizes its base of Viognier (55%) with ripe, exotic, Condrieu-like aromas of honeysuckle, gardenia blossoms, apricot and sweet melon. Honeyed yet dry on the palate, the wine’s additional Roussanne and Marsanne components emerge with waxy richness and minerality, adding complex notes of peach, acacia and honeydew. The finish is long and complex beyond its modest price tag, offering sweet white flower notes accented by smoky minerals and suggestions of crisp green melon. A fascinating wine that will thrill fans of white Rhône Valley wines as well as newcomers to the genre. Enjoy now and over the coming year with delicate freshwater fish dishes, light poultry and as a delightful, out-of-the-ordinary apéritif.

2004 Tenuta di Arceno, PrimaVoce, Tuscany, Italy 11.99/128.00 reg. 16.99
Winemaker Pierre Seillan is a busy man. He initially honed his winemaking skills in the Loire Valley, then moved on to Bordeaux where he is the winemaker at Chateau Lassegue in St.-Emilion. In addition, he makes some of California’s most distinctive and highly praised wines in Sonoma’s Verite Winery. Finally, and not least, he is the winemaker at Tenuta di Arceno in the Castelnuovo Berardenga region of Tuscany. What typifies Seillan’s winemaking is his genius at blending and understanding terroir. The 2004 PrimaVoce is a superb example of those skills. Made from a blend primarily of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), the wine evokes the soil and air of Tuscany. Compelling aromas of cherries, spice, lavender, rose, cedar and earth announce themselves as uniquely Italian. On the palate initial suggestions of chocolate, ripe cherries and exotic spices yield to subtle floral notes of lavender and dusty rose. The long and satisfying finish offers licorice, black pepper and more cedar and spice notes. Pair this Tuscan beauty with sausage prepared with spicy green beans, pasta Bolognese, goose, game hens, and grilled T-bone steaks.