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FEATURED
RED WINES: |

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2010
Château Jougrand, Saint-Chinian,
Languedoc-Roussillon, France
... 10.99/117.50
In the center of France’s
arid, mountainous Languedoc
region lies the subregion of
Saint-Chinian. Here deep, aromatic,
intense wines are being crafted
from traditional southern French
varietals. Saint-Chinian’s
chief varietal, Carignan, gives
this authentic wonder that wild,
untamed edge we so love from
this region. Saturated black-plum
in the glass, Jougrand’s
Saint-Chinian opens with wild,
herbal, garrigue-driven aromas
of juniper, sage, black currants
and tar. Bright on the attack,
the Jougrand continues the herbal
theme on the palate, complicated
by suggestions of licorice,
dark chocolate, dark roasted
coffee and eucalyptus. The wine’s
intense fruit and herbal palate
presence segues to a long and
remarkably refreshing finish
featuring reprises of cassis
and blackberry fruit wrapped
inside layers of herbal garrigue,
tar and licorice. Superb, authentic
and rustic in all the best ways,
this is a soulful winter-warmer
rouge that chases away even
the chilliest days and proves
itself a wonderful complement
to hearty braises, stews, grilled
and roasted meats, ratatouille,
hard cheeses, and game. |
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2010 Domaine
du Pas Saint Martin, Saumur,
La Pierre Frite, Loire Valley,
France ... 13.50/144.50
In the heart of Saumur, Domaine
du Pas Saint Martin produces
an impressive and complete portfolio
of still and sparkling wines.
Their Saumur rouge, La Pierre
Frite, is produced from Cabernet
Franc organically grown on silica-rich
limestone soils, de-stemmed,
and fermented in stainless steel
with the specific intention
of producing wine approachable
in its youth while also being
expressive of the Saumur’s
special terroir. Deep black-plum
in color, the wine opens with
smoky, leafy, tobacco-tinged
cassis fruit complicated by
floral top notes. Transparent
and terroir-driven on the palate,
the Cabernet Franc is merely
a conduit for Saumur’s
perfumed limestone to take center
stage. Fine tannins and brisk
acidity appear on the wine’s
finish, followed by complex
suggestions of violets, tobacco,
menthol, tar and smoky earth.
This is splendid, authentic
Saumur rouge that’s ready
to drink now. Serve with everything
from burgers to chops to braises
to stews.
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2009 Domaine le Roc
Fronton, La Folle Noire d’Ambat,
Southwest France ... 13.50/144.50
Situated just north of Toulouse,
the wines of Fronton are finally
starting to get the recognition
they deserve. Their secret
ingredient is the Négrette
grape, indigenous to Cyprus
but most at home on the iron-rich
quartz and gravel soils prevalent
in this forgotten corner of
France. Should you wish to
explore what makes the Négrette
so special, this naturally-farmed
beauty is the perfect introduction.
Opaque plum-ruby in the glass,
Domaine le Roc’s La
Folle Noire is highly perfumed
with high notes of violets,
blueberries, black cherries
and ferrous terroir. Bright
and snappy on the palate,
the wine reveals notes of
cinnamon, clove, star anise
and a welcome undertone of
French funk. Fresh, long and
soil-driven, the wine finishes
with utterly unique expressions
of violets, mushrooms, musk
and earth. Enjoy this with
hearty sausages, charcuterie,
lentil dishes, duck confit,
and roast poultry. Unique,
distinctive, and a “must
try” for wine geeks!
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FEATURED
WHITE WINES: |
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2010 Rocca
di Tufo, Orvieto, Umbria, Italy
... 9.50/101.50
Tuffeau (tufo) is the calcareous
soil of the Orvieto DOC and
the inspiration for this delicious,
aromatic offering from winemaker
Giovanni Dubini. A classic Orvieto
blend of seven organically grown
grapes, including Grechetto,
Procanico and Verdello, Dubini
brilliantly captures the floral,
aromatic and mineral essence
of what makes Orvieto one of
our favorite Italian white wines.
A lovely pale green-gold color
in the glass, Rocca di Tufo’s
Orvieto opens with aromas of
star fruit, honeydew melon,
straw and chalky minerals. Brisk
and racy on the palate, the
wine conveys suggestions of
green apples, lime, grapefruit
and hay, all underpinned by
a flinty, perfumed tufo soil
signature. Sappy and fresh on
the finish, the wine segues
to a tropical fruit theme with
suggestions of pineapple and
papaya alongside herbal notes
of camphor and basil. A delicious,
unusually complex and most affordable
Orvieto, the Rocca di Tufo will
pair wonderfully with all things
seafood as well as white pasta
dishes, sautéed green
vegetables, fresh cheeses and
light chicken recipes. Enjoy
now and over the coming year.
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2010
Claude Lafond, Reuilly, Pinot
Gris, La Grande Pièce,
Loire Valley, France ... 16.99/181.50
The back label claims that
this is a rosé wine,
but that assertion is debatable.
What is clear is that this
is an unusually richly-colored
white wine, for, as you probably
know, the Pinot Gris is a
magenta-colored grape. Regardless
of which side you choose –
rosé or blanc –
this wine is an unqualified
winner. A brilliant lemon-gold
color in the glass, Lafond’s
La Grande Pièce casts
classic Pinot Gris aromas
of smoke and buttered hazelnuts,
but with the sense of lightness,
elegance and deftness that
only the delicate limestone
soils of the upper Loire can
produce. On the palate, hints
of lemon juice, cranberry
and flinty soil are lifted
by the wine’s brilliant
acidic spine. Buttery brioche,
pâté brisée,
and lemon-hazelnut scone batter
mark the wine’s long
rich yet zesty finish. One
of the most versatile and
delicious Pinot Gris in memory,
Oregon Pinot Gris fans and
enthusiasts of Loire Valley
wines must try this wine.
Serve with salmon broiled
and topped with hazelnut butter,
light pork preparations, light
broth fish stews, and medium-aged
chèvres.
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2009
Domaine du Vieux Pressoir, Saumur
Blanc, Elégance, Loire
Valley, France ... 13.99/149.50
Complementing the Pas Saint
Martin Saumur rouge above, Vieux
Pressoir’s Chenin Blanc
Elégance is grown on
similar silica-rich limestone
soil that imbues the wine with
its smoky soil personality.
A lovely green tinted lemon-gold
in the glass, the Vieux Pressoir
Saumur Blanc opens with aromas
of acacia blossoms, pear, honeydew
melon and perfumed soil. Brisk
and invigorating on the palate,
the Elégance –
fashioned as a sec tendre –
plays rich melon fruit against
a tactile, waxy texture and
a brilliant acidic spine. This
bracing acidity follows onto
the wine’s long lemon,
melon, and pear-fruited finish,
where another blast of Saumur’s
smoky limestone terroir asserts
itself. Enjoy now and over the
coming decade with poached freshwater
fishes in a delicate beurre
blanc sauce, seafood pastas
in a light cream sauce, seafood
risotto, spring morels and local
asparagus, fresh chèvres,
and blanquette de veau.
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2010 Matello, Pinot Noir, Cuvée
Lazarus, Willamette Valley, Oregon
... 19.99/213.50
We adore Marcus Goodfellow’s
hands-off, non-interventionist approach
to winemaking. And we are delighted
to feature another of his limited-release
wines: the brand-new Cuvée
Lazarus Pinot Noir. Lazarus is Matello’s
designation for their first-release
Pinot, a wine specifically fashioned
for bright fruit and immediate appeal.
Matello’s 2010 Lazarus opens
with a brilliant garnet robe and
high-toned aromas of spicy raspberries,
blood oranges and earthy cranberries.
Bright red fruits grace the palate
alongside smoky soil notes and suggestions
of wild yeast complexity. Fine tannins
and firm acidity sneak in mid-palate
to make the wine’s transparent
core of raspberry and cranberry
fruit shimmer with electric energy
before turning the spotlight to
lovely hints of leafy underbrush
and white button mushrooms. Another
honest-to-goodness winner from Goodfellow,
and a fantastic expression of the
red-fruit nature of Oregon’s
2010 vintage. Enjoy now and over
the coming five years with roast
chicken, broiled salmon, potatoes
au gratin, pan-seared pork chops,
and roast duck.
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Don't Forget!
Valentine's Day
Tuesday, Feb. 14
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DATEBOOK:
Special Events in
February and March |
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PORT TASTING
WITH RUPERT SYMINGTON -
Mon. Feb.
6, 6:15-7:30 p.m. Fee: $45.
TASTING
WITH NEAL ROSENTHAL of Rosenthal
Wine Merchant - Tues. Feb.
7, 6:15-7:30 p.m. Fee: $10.
AUSTRIAN
WINE SEMINARS
with Brian Martin of Galaxy
Wines - Weds. Feb. 15 and
Weds. Feb. 22, 6:30 p.m. Fee: $40
/ $75.
BURGUNDY
TASTING WITH LUC BOUCHARD of Bouchard
Père & Fils
- Tues. Feb. 21, 6:30-7:30 p.m.
Fee: $20.
BORDEAUX
WINE TASTING with Jean Christophe
Calvet - Thurs. Mar. 1,
6:15-7:30
p.m. Fee: $10.
DOMAINE DROUHIN
OREGON vs. MAISON JOSEPH
DROUHIN
Wine Dinner at the Heathman
with Laurent Drouhin
Weds., Mar. 7., 6:30. Reservations:
$175
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