Chenas is often overlooked among the Crus of Beaujolais. It’s the oldest cru, and at one time it was the most esteemed of all, but over time the louder crus of Morgon and Moulin-a-Vent surpassed Chenas in fame, and Moulin-a-Vent annexed many of Chenas’ southern vineyards for good measure. This is a shame, because in our opinion, no Beaujolais cru truly soars like great Chenas. The late Jacky Janodet established the Domaine les Fines Graves a generation ago, with holdings in both Chenas and Moulin-a-Vent. Now under the guidance of his wife Evelyne and son Jerome, Les Fines Graves is one of the great secrets of northern Beaujolais. This Chenas offers an unmistakable aromatic note of gravel for which the domaine is named, alongside fresh cherries, boysenberry, marionberry, tangerine, white pepper, and freshly snuffed juniper-scented candle. The palate takes flight, impossibly silky in a way only Chenas quite gets, Fruit is the sort of red you get on album covers from the psychedelic 70s; raspberry and cherry and cranberry with a touch of citrus. After a few sips, the delicate tannins layer over the palate and help the flavors stick the finish, which lingers neatly with a touch of cherry pit. This is simply spectacular Beaujolais, and a must try for lovers of elegant red wines.