The Cantina Furlani is in the mountains in a more literal sense than most alpine wineries. Where other winemakers boast about the alpine climate and sun and soil while their vineyards are next to a highway on the valley floor, Matteo Furlani’s vines shiver in the winds at 3000 feet with a panoramic view over the city of Trento. The Furlani family have for generations studied agriculture before coming to work at the winery, and they have always been good farmers first. Today Matteo farms biodynamically and uses simple, traditional winemaking techniques. He uses sulfur only when necessary and stabilizes the wine by putting it in glass demijohns outside in the snow over the winter. His Bianco is a blend of Nosiola, Verdealbara, Lagarino Bianco with a bit of Muller Thurgau. Since this ebullient wine is essentially made in an alpine meadow, it is appropriate that it conveys the character of one perfectly with aromas of Chamomile and honeysuckle, lemon and lime zest, lemongrass and agave with a rim of salt. The palate is energetic and crisp, with a sense of salty granitic minerality drawn from the mountain’s soil. Flavors of tangerine and ginger join the chorus and complete the finish, immediatel inviting the next sip. Insistent enough to stand up to richly flavored fish dishes, the Bianco also works with charcuterie, alpine cheeses, and garlicky aioli.