Palomino from the countryside surrounding Cadiz is a curious case. It is a style of wine that has existed for centuries, was once among the most popular wines in the world and offers a unique combination of salt and spice. Very few people have heard of it these days because almost all Palomino from Cadiz is made into Sherry, a style that has defined Andalucian wine since the 1860s. Bodegas Barbadillo makes some of the very best Sherry available, but at just over 200 years old, the winery is old enough to remember what Palomino was like before the age of Sherry. This wine comes from two organic vineyards outside Sanlucar de Barrameda, and ages on stainless steel with lees stirring for extra textural heft. Wildly complex aromas  jump out of the glass:  sea salt, beachgrass, cinnamon and apple sauce; cedar, pineapple, cara cara orange, and the pure white chalky albariza soil of the region. The palate offers poached pears and roasted peaches with floral accents and a final touch of sea salt on the finish. The wine is named Sabalo after the local fish that plays a central part on most local menus.