April 2025 Newsletter Wines
Newsletter Selections of the Valley: to be tasted Saturday, March 5th
These four selections are from vineyards planted in one valley or another around the world. Whether it’s the wide sweeping Aude Valley, the Saone, the Willamette, or just the space between two Provençal massifs, these vineyards are all at low elevation, looking up at hills and mountains.
Evesham Wood Blanc du Puits Sec 2024 $20
Wow! This Pinot Gris led blend from the iconic Puits Sec vineyard cuts an incredible dash through the nose and across the palate. Evesham Wood has been famous since Russ Rainey set the standard for the Eola Amity Hills in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Pinot Noir always got the headlines, but this white blend has been there from the beginning, mostly Pinot Gris and bursting with flavor. Oregon’s 2024 vintage is shaping up to be an exciting one, featuring perfectly balanced wines with powerful personality. Early release white wines like this are early signs of great things to come. The nose of the Blanc du Puits Sec offers complex notes of pear and Meyer lemon, yellow roses, tangerine, tarragon, rosemary and pepperoncini – with steely mineral tones underneath. The palate is not quite heavy, but intense and vigorous with acidity, showing flavors of white cherry, lemon, lime and pear. The finish is a sunburst of mouth watering citrus and salt. Stock up on this one, this is a white wine you’ll be coming back to again and again.
Triennes Méditerranée Rosé 2023 $20
When Jacques Seysses and Aubert de Villaines team up to make wine, you have our attention. Winemakers for the legendary Burgundy houses Dujac and Domaine de la Romanée Conti collaborate on this Mediterranean rosé with a little more caché to it than usual. Unlike their towering, rare, and slow aging Burgundy, this wine is about as fresh and inviting as can be. Made primarily from Cinsault, with a little Syrah, Grenach, and Merlot for support. The grapes are harvested at night to ensure fresh grapes in the cooler air, and the wine is fermented at low temperatures to preserve every note of clear and crisp fruit available. On the nose, there’s notes of limestone minerality, pink grapefruit, lemon zest, lavender, and a sprinkle of white pepper. The palate offers notes of redcurrant, strawberry, and lemon juice that land with a delightfully bright and zesty finish. This is a perfect choice for picnics, fruit salad, and appetizers.
Jean Manciat Mâcon Charnay 2023 $21
If you have ever enjoyed a particularly fine lemon tart from a patisserie, one that comes on a lace doily with flaky, buttery pastry crust, creamy lemon curd, and just the right hints of vanilla and orange and salt, you might have thought just for a moment “I wish I could bottle this flavor”. Jean Manciat may or may not have had this thought in mind, but in his vineyards in the village of Charnay on the outskirts of Mâcon, he has essentially accomplished the feat. Jean took over his family’s 3.5 hectare vineyard in the 1980s and the first thing he did was leave the local co-op so he could make higher quality wines. His first step was to cut the vines shorter and reduce yields. Chardonnay is perfectly content to produce huge volumes of grapes if you let it, but great Chardonnay requires attention. This means forcing the vine to pay closer attention to a smaller number of grapes, giving each one more intense flavor and texture. This charming, stainless-aged and classic Mâconnais Chardonnay is the result.
Domaine de Fontsainte Corbieres Rouge 2022 $18
Domaine de Fontsainte is one of the most prominent Corbieres wineries, a favorite in the Kermit Lynch import portfolio since 1978. This classically herb-crusted blend of 60% Carignan, 30% Grenache, and 10% Syrah is suffused with Mediterranean garrigue, a scrubby landscape full of aromatic herbs so iconic that in France it has the same status as Oregon’s coast, where it is illegal to restrict public access. In order to maintain the earthy nuances, winemaker Bruno Laboucarié ages this wine in a mixture of mostly neutral oak and cement. This is a sturdy red full of rustic charm, with aromas of black raspberries, tamarind, oregano and orange rinds. The palate is weighty and framed with thick cut tannins, with flavors of garrigue, blackberry, black pepper, and blood orange. There are no shortcuts to making great wines like this one, but Fontsainte is something of a shortcut to choosing a satisfying red for hearty meals.
Newsletter Selections from the Hills: to be tasted Saturday, April 19th
Some hills are rocky. Some hills roll gently into one another. Many hills around the world offer the perfect setting for vineyards, and produce delicious wines. We’re highlighting gravelly hills in France, marly hills in northern Italy, and foothills in Sicily.
Battistelle Soave Classico “Le Battistelle” 2022 $21
There was a time – a long time ago – when the two most famous white wines in Europe were Chablis from northern France and Soave from Verona. Much has happened to northern Italy since that eighteenth century heyday, but today Soave’s wineries are making an effort to reclaim that noble heritage. Soave has always been at its best when it is grown on steep, rocky vineyards in the Classico zone, and when it is made entirely from the indigenous Garganega grape. Gelmino and Christina Del Bosco farm the Battistelle vineyard on one of the newly designated crus: Castellare. As the front label describes, the vineyard is steep, with pergola trained vines supported by stone terraces – terrain where tractors fear to tread. Once harvested, Battistelle’s grapes are aged in steel tanks for six months, constantly stirred to give the wine richer aromas of lemon curd, white pepper, sage and rosemary and salt. The lees stirring also gives the finished product a full and creamy body, with ripe orange and peach fruit, zesty acidity, and the mineral impression of big flaky salt crystals. Serve in place of Chablis with roast chicken, cheesy pasta or creamy risotto.
Domaine des Bérioles Saint Pourçain Rouge Le D’Ici et D’Ailleurs 2021 $21
Saint Pourçain is a small growing region not very far from the geographic center of France, with vineyards planted along the banks of the Allier River, which shortly joins the Loire on its long journey north and west to the Atlantic. Once a region with thousands of hectares of vines, Saint Pourçain was never particularly prestigious, so after the phylloxera louse swept through, there weren’t very many growers with the stomach to replant their vineyards. Domaine des Bérioles’ vineyards were first planted in 1989, and represents a part of the rebirth of wine in the region, with renewed interest in the local white specialty Tressalier, and in red wines like this Rouge le d’Ici et d’Ailleurs, drawn from mostly Gamay with a 10% splash of Pinot Noir. Fermented in concrete tanks and then aged in steel, this wine offers all the fruit and spice one palate can handle. Aromas of wild strawberry, cherry, orange peel, eucalyptus, lemon pepper and fennel turn to a medium bodied palate filled with silky smooth acidity, strawberry fruit leather, orange zest and peppercorns. Give this wine a vigorous decanting to release the best aromas before serving with poultry.
Gurrieri Terre Siciliane Frappato 2023 $22
The process for writing these reviews starts with hasty notes written with a glass in hand. I’ll return weeks or months later to fill in all the background and edit out the nonsensical bits. For this Frappato from a small farm in Sicily, my notes started with “Stunning. Scintillating. Perfect?” and I just don’t know if I can improve upon that. Frappato is Sicily’s second favorite red, a fresher and spicier counterpoint to the broad shouldered Nero d’Avola. The Gurrieri family vineyards are on the island’s southeastern coast on the shoulders of the Hyblaean Mountains outside Ragusa. Sand and limestone soils provide excellent conditions for developing grapes with pure aromas and vivid acidity. Aromas like raspberry and loganberry fresh off the bush, with a strong whiff of peppercorns. The palate is brisk and refreshing, with loads of purple fruit and clay and pepper, conveyed in a medium of pure, transparent silk. The finish lingers in a Sicilian flower garden. Serve with fresh seafood, hard cheese, cured meat, or Cacio e Pepe.
Reverdito Barbera d’Alba 2022 $18
For so many winemakers in Barolo, the goal is to make some sort of treasure, wine that lays away in cellars, to be seen and discussed and reverently waited upon. The Reverdito family – brother Michele and sister Sabina – have no interest in this sort of wine. They want people to drink their wines, enjoy them and come back for more, even if their vineyards are in La Morra and Verduno, some of Barolo’s best. This unfussy philosophy is paired with rigorous organic farming and sensitive winemaking to produce balanced, pure, and satisfying wines across the board. The Barbera is aged only in steel tanks, and the fruit shines through on the nose: redcurrant and black plum, raspberry and citrus with a kiss of clay. The palate is full like a black cherry pie, with a touch of cola and citrus peel that lingers on the finish. This wine is easy to drink but hearty, good for burgers, meaty pastas, and simple pork dishes.
Newsletter Selections on the Mountain: to be tasted Saturday, April 26th
Mountainous vineyards are some of the most daunting vineyards in the world. They’re hard to farm, hard to tend, sometimes even hard to get to. The wines that come from these high elevation vines are worth it. These are wines with tension, energy, and complexity from Spain, France, and Slovenia.
Huguet de Can Feixes Penedes Blanc Seleccio 2023 $21
The Can Feixes Blanc Seleccio is an old and dear friend of this newsletter. Huguet is one of the oldest and most respected Cava houses in Spain, with roots going back to 1690. For more than forty years they’ve made this single vineyard white from a blend of five varieties planted over 1400 feet above sea level in the Can Feixes vineyard, near the southern end of the Penedes region. The traditional Cava grapes Paralleda, Macabeo, and Xarel.lo, together with Chardonnay and Malvasia de Sitges weave together a tapestry of steely aromas and flavors not quite like anything else. If you’re looking for a crisp and refreshing summer sipper, here it is with a snappy core of acidity. If you’re looking for something to drink thoughtfully, there’s a long list of aromas and flavors to consider: steel wool, lemon curd and lime zest, acacia, sea salt and green apple. If you’re looking for a wine to pair with crab or octopus or other intensely flavored seafood, the Can Feixes has the backbone to do that too.
Vins du Leman Vin de Savoie Quintessence 2019 $22
In Savoie, Chasselas is not held in high regard. Dominique Lucas is an exception at Les Vignes de Paradis, a small vineyard along the southern shores of Lake Leman. Dominique came from a family of winemakers Burgundy, but he wanted a vineyard of his own, and the less expensive vineyards of Savoie led him to an unlikely calling. He is the leading producer in the world of quality Chasselas, a grape widely dismissed as a bulk variety, good only for large yields. Under his care the variety has much more to say. There’s depth and texture you can chew on in here, the wine is clearly defined and long lasting. Aromas of apple blossoms and apple sauce, lemon zest and vanilla-flavored whipped cream lead into flavors of lemon curd and yellow apples with a dusting of salt on the finish. A couple extra years of bottle age have given this wine time to develop a suave and creamy texture – still crisp – that reminds us of Chablis. Simple chicken dishes, French onion soup, mushroom pasty, or creamy cheeses.
Mansus Vipava Valley Sivi Pinot-R 2021 $21
Ramato is the Italian word for copper, used frequently to describe the richer than gold color achieved by Pinot Grigio – Sivi Pinot in Slovenian – when left to soak in the skins for a week or more. While this method affects the color, it does more for the flavor, and even more for the texture in this exotic, impressively complex wine. Bogdan Makovec grows his Pinot Grigio just north of Trieste, at the head of the Adriatic Sea in the Vipava Valley where steep, sun-soaked hills meet saltwater. This part of the world produces grapes with intense flavors and rich textures, something Bogdan accentuates with a week of skin contact in steel tanks and acacia barrels. The aroma is punchy, with notes of guava and pink grapefruit, oranges, black pepper, and a field of wildflowers after rain. The palate is creamy and full bodied, with acidity strong enough to lift powerful fresh flavors of strawberry and orange, with a smoky soil note growing on the finish. The tannins are gentle and silky, but the wine will still respond better at cellar temperature than fresh out of the refrigerator. Serve with Indian curry, lamb, duck, and other powerfully flavored dishes.
Viñedos del Jorco Cebreros Las Cabañuelas 2021 $19
Cebreros is a sleepy town in the Sierra de Gredos mountains west of Madrid, and until five or ten years ago it was in a large empty spot on Spain’s wine map. Not because there were no vines – Garnacha has been at home here for centuries – but because people forgot about them when they left for the city through the 20th century. At the turn of the 21st century, these vines were rediscovered by people like César Ruiz, Flequi Berruti, Nacho Jimenez, and superstar winemaker Raul Perez, who saw the Pinot Noir-like potential of these dry Garnacha vines. Las Cabañuelas is a cuvee made from grapes purchased from like-minded neighbors in the area, handled gently and exposed only to neutral oak. It smells of bright juicy cherry, raspberry jam, tobacco, orange oil and cedar smoke. The palate is perfectly balanced, with chalky tannins and refreshing acid wrapped around stewed berries. A bit of earth and iron lingers on the finish. Have this wine alongside pork loin, meaty paella, or a dish featuring Cannellini beans. For best results, open the wine before you start cooking to give it time to breathe.
Jure Poberaj at the Winemaker’s Barrel: Saturday, April 12th
Jure Poberaj was always going to get to wine eventually. Though he studied finance, and made a name for himself at White Salmon Bakery, he also picked up a degree in winemaking along the way, and with famous winemakers in his family, it was only a matter of time before he tried his hand at wine himself. He chose the Columbia Gorge for a number of reasons, but the vast untapped potential of the region was a big one. Jure is looking to expand the boundaries of what is possible in the gorge, one vintage at a time.
Poberaj Columbia Gorge Pinot Grigio $29
This is a Pinot Grigio that treads the line between the traditional, clean and fresh sipper and the more serious, structured sort of Grigio that is some of Oregon's best white wine.
Poberaj Columbia Gorge Godello $38
Godello is not a subtle grape, and wines made from it are always a mouthful. This one in particular spent six months in Georgian style Qvevri, to wring out every drop of roasted peach and apricot that come with beautiful, fine grained tannin and juicy acidity. Note the vintage, this wine came from the smoky 2020 harvest, but the combination of Godello's irresistible power and time have tamed the smoke in the wine. It is present as an almost pleasant whiff of pipe smoke.
Poberaj Columbia Gorge Sangiovese $34
Threemile Vineyard has potential to be one of Oregon's most interesting vineyards. It is home to a wide range of varieties, including Chenin Blanc and Sangiovese, which are surprising things to find in the Gorge. Jure's Sangiovese, made in amphora, offers beautifully fresh raspberry and cranberry fruits in a medium bodied wine with plenty of acidity.
Poberaj Columbia Gorge Mencia-R $43
We're thrilled to have Mencia in the Columbia Gorge. The story of Mencia Maestro Raul Perez consulting on the vineyard is well known, and it's hard to argue with the results. This Mencia tastes like some of the best single vineyard offerings from Bierzo. Aromas of blackberry, orange peel, and szechuan peppercorn lead to a pure silk palate defined by fresh acidity, plenty of black and orange fruits, and a brambly earth finish. Absolutely stunning stuff.