It is difficult for us wine merchants to keep up these days. Ten or twenty years ago, we learned about wines like Albana di Romagna, and easy narratives fell neatly into our mental filing cabinets: “(1) First DOCG appellation officially filed in Italy, (2) Obviously someone greased some palms to achieve this, (3) The wine is a generally mediocre, characterless white; not worth your time.” Thus the filing cabinet slammed shut and we didn’t have to think about it for decades. Until now, that is, because we’ve lately been faced with a distressing number of delicious, characterful Albanas di Romagna, and this one from the Zeoli family at Monticino Rosso is the best yet. This wine jumps right out of the glass with aromas of kiss melon, pear, marzipan, sage and salty minerality. The palate is powerful with clean lines like an athlete wearing a Euro-cut suit. Flinty acidity shines on flavors of lime and lemon and peach before the finish comes through, leaving behind a trail of apple blossoms and almonds. Serve this with seafood stews, light curries, and colorful salads.