Everywhere wine grapes are grown, there are treasured local varieties, indigenous to and inseparable from their homeland. The red Kadarka grape is possibly the most Hungarian variety there is, and the Heimann family in the southern-Hungarian appellation of Szekszard has been working for generations to rescue it from the brink of Communist-state-sponsered eradication. Their efforts have led to this rambunctious charmer, with a nose of wild cherry, wilder raspberry, cranberries, rhubarb, tangerine, and a breath of chalky soil. Heimann Zoltan’s delicate and mostly-hands-off winemaking comes through on the filigree palate as clear and delicately textured as a sunset over a mountain lake. Flavors of strawberry, cherry cordial, lavender, and toasted orange peel come lightly dusted with loamy earth, all woven through the impossibly fine, juicy textured wine, as zesty as any but never sharp, and the finish echoes with red and black fruit. This wine is a willing partner to sturdy open-top stews and rich meats, things that used to fly, or earthier dals, but no food is strictly needed to enjoy it.