The Catarratto grape accounts for more than half of all the vines in Sicily, but most of it is used to produce Marsala, or neutral bulk wines. One theory for the name is that it refers to the “cataract” of juice that these highly productive vines can produce. However, careful viticulture in the right sort of vineyards - high elevation, sandy soils - can yield better results. The Vesco family of Normanno makes organic wines from indigenous grapes near the western town of Alcamo, and winemaker Eric Narioo - famous for his Vino di Anna wines - has a reputation for elevating the humble Catarratto grape. Sicily as a whole is working hard to escape from its typecast role as a source of low quality bulk wine, and this winery is one of the leaders of the charge. After harvesting the grapes for the Ciello Bianco, the wine is left on the skins for a few hours to let more intense and complex flavors set. The nose jumps out with flinty minerality, with fruit close behind: lemon and peach, then jasmine and yellow roses, sage and tarragon. Thanks to the extra lees contact, the medium bodied palate has an outsized impact, with notes of lemon and peach and kiwi and orange that stick around longer than expected, with a salty note on the finish. Open up any seafood cookbook in the world for this one, but especially one featuring Italian Islands.