Cascading lemons and limes with a salty touch, peaches, granite gravel terraces, a dash of spritz, and a nub of ginger. balanced, crisp and cool on the palate. If that’s not the dictionary definition of Vinho Verde, there’s something wrong with your dictionary. Portal da Calçada’s vineyards are in Amarante, within sight of the Serra do Marão that separates Vinho Verde from the Douro Valley. Loureiro and Alvarinho are two of the most popular varieties in Vinho Verde – out of the 37 allowed – and this subzone is the warmest and driest in the denomination. Calçada is a relatively large estate with 50 hectares under vine, and their Vinho Verde is a classically fresh and zesty wine. Generally speaking, Vinho Verde has been emerging on the scene with a more complex, nuanced, and exciting set of wines than we’re used to (check out the Quinta da Palmirinha wine below for more details), but as growers across northern Portugal have insisted on higher quality and better definition in their wines, even the classic fizzy stuff has been getting better. This wine still comes at bottom shelf prices, but it offers mid-shelf quality and complexity. We recommend light picnic fare, summer evenings on the porch, and fruity fish dishes.