There is no shortage of Bordeaux that tastes just like classic Bordeaux. There is a kind of gravity to the land that pulls wine inexorably to the center of the flavor wheel at the nexus where clay and plum meet. There is so much Bordeaux that it is difficult to stand out from the crowd, but when it happens, it is pure magic. On an unusually steep hill above the town of Gironde-sur-Dropt on Bordeaux’s eastern edge, David and Hélène Barrault make wine that stands out. This cuvee is made entirely from Merlot grown in clay-limestone soil, and after the grapes are harvested by hand, the fermentation and aging take place entirely in cement tanks. The resulting wine smells purely of plums and proper Maine blueberries, orange oil and wet clay and dried herbs. The palate is utterly silky, fairly full bodied but fuller of flavors like blackberry, orange peel, and limestone minerality. The finish is pleasantly earthy too, with hints of pepper, cranberry, and currant. Play the classics with this workaday Bordeaux: steak, potatoes, and cuts hot off the grill.