Clara Sala farms a single hectare vineyard called Contrada San Nicola beside the beach shortly south of the town of Marsala on Sicily’s western tip. The soil is a mix of sand and limestone that helps to preserve Grillo’s zest for life and fruit. Clara’s is far too small an operation to export her own wine, but it’s just right for Mary Taylor’s portfolio, an import company dedicated to exactly this sort of small, organically farmed vineyard in a less fashionable region. The wine is fermented and aged a few months on its lees in stainless steel tanks before bottling and shipping to our fair shores. Like any proper Grillo, the nose is a bundle of fruit and salty energy, with notes of grilled pineapple, apple sauce and pear, with Italian seasoning and sea salt. The palate is full and tense, etched with limestone-driven acidity, flavors of pineapple and ripe cantaloupe and spring blossoms before a salty finish. This wine is a ready pair for cioppino, scallops, or lemony bean dishes with focaccia.