The Coteaux du Vendômois appellation is a very old but often overlooked part of the Loire Valley. It is home to two varieties: the hipster’s darling red Pineau d’Aunis, and Chenin Blanc which always hits a bit different here than it does in Anjou, just a few miles to the south. Benoit Brazilier farms his family vineyards organically, deep limestone-infused clay plots nestled in a bend of the pastoral Loir River (The Loir is a tributary of the Loire. I’m not kidding) where the grapes take on a rare note of savory spice. The nose features notes of green apple, white pepper, lime and preserved lemon plus a classic dollop of beeswax and a much less classic note of holy basil. The palate is a fresh star burst of orange and lemon, with both limestone minerality and lime fruit flavor, acidity like a crisp autumn breeze, seamless texture and a deliciously clean finish that leaves behind some honeycomb. This is one of the best value Chenins we’ve seen in a while, with just as much concentration and poise as some $30 examples. Serve with seafood stews and creamy cheeses.