The reputation of Chenin Blanc from Saumur is rising so quickly that we’re tempted to declare it the equal of Savennieres and Vouvray, the heralded cornerstones of Loire Chenin Blanc. If it hasn’t happened yet, thanks to iconic growers like the Foucault brothers at Clos Rougeard, Arnaud Lambert, Romain Guiberteau, and Antoine Sanzay, it will very soon. Before that happens let’s enjoy stunning values like this one from Laurent Charrier at Domaine le Pas Saint Martin. This organically farmed wine is reliably great every year, but this vintage is simply stunning. Aromas of asian pear, white strawberry and peach come with a note of sandy earth that puts visions of beachgrass in our eyes. The palate is low in alcohol, shimmering with acidity and sunshine-bright flavors of lemon and apple. Fresh herbs bloom on the finish and as the wine warms up, but at any temperature it finishes clean and refreshing, with citrus zest and wet stones. Chenin Blanc like this is almost endlessly versatile, but simple and freshly seasoned chicken dishes come to mind first.