There is a growing body of thought among thoughtful winemakers in Alsace that the region’s devotion to mono-varietal wines does a poor job of capturing the region’s terroir. The crux of the argument: any given vineyard in Alsace says something different to Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc or Gewurztraminer, so the most complete wine must include a little bit of each. This reflects the older tradition in Alsace before Crus existed, when almost all wines were blended like the modern Edelzwicker. When Alsatian grapes found their way to Oregon, that same tradition followed, and today Oregon winemaker Marcus Goodfellow keeps it alive in this Whistling Ridge Blanc, a blend that perfectly captures the vineyard: 64% Riesling 20% Pinot Noir, 12% Pinot Blanc, and 4% Gewurztraminer. Picked early and aged in steel for maximum freshness, this low-alcohol charmer smells of lemon blossom and lilac, orange peel and slate. The palate is dry and clear and fresh and crisp, with flavors of pears and lemons before a sharp mineral-scented finish. This is a wine for a wide range of seafood, especially the grilled sort.