Jean-Pierre and his wife Jacqueline are the latest generation of the Thibon family, farmers in the Ardeche since 1670. The Mas de Libian winery is only about sixty years old, but organic farming and philosophy of minimal intervention are very old family traditions. This part of the Rhone Valley, technically within the Cotes du Rhone, is the less formal part of the valley, where the vineyards tend to be smaller and less expensive. The area has lately become the focus for young, natural-leaning winemakers. Mas de Libian was here before most of them arrived. The Petanque is a cuvee to open while playing France’s signature lawn game, a satisfying, garrigue-filled red that’s rustic in all the right ways. Aromas fly thick and fast of blackberries, currants, cherry fruit leather, oregano, orange peel and pipe smoke. The palate is fresh thanks to a lilting cut of acidity, framed by dusty tannins and earthy flavors with black raspberry fruit and a touch of citrus. There’s enough weight here to stand up to pork loins and vegetable-rich stews, but a burger is the classic choice for food.