For all the work Romans did to spread vineyards to every corner of Europe, the wines that actually come from the city of Rome have never attracted much fanfare. History has a sense of humor sometimes, but for Antonio Pulcini, Rome’s most local wine is no joke. Frascati is the name, generally a light, inoffensively crisp wine made from Malvasia. Antonio believes that most of it is made from the wrong Malvasia. There’s a local strain called Malvasia di Lazio, or Puntinata, that Antonio considers the only correct grape for Frascati, and while he allows a small proportion of Trebbiano in his wine, the Puntinata does most of the work. There is nothing shy about this wine. Aromas come blasting out of the glass like peach and flint, orange peel and white flowers. The palate is creamy yet cut with razor sharp acidity, filled with meyer lemon, cara cara oranges, and white pepper. The finish offers lip-smacking minerality and a whiff of pineapple. Serve with white pizzas, brown lentils, and yellow cheeses.