Domaine Drouhin’s holdings extend from Burgundy’s most northerly vineyards of Chablis to the Southern reaches of the Macconais. They are one of a handful of negociants who make wine from every one of Burgundy’s villages, and every wine they make is two things; at once an unmistakable example of the local terroir, and unmistakably Drouhin. The house was an early convert to the virtues of organic viticulture, and a major driver in Burgundy’s ongoing transition, but the house has always insisted on the highest quality fruit, a necessary ingredient for their unadorned style. In the Chardonnays there is a freshness, a lightly creamy touch, and a vivid note of salty minerality at the core. It’s there in the monumental Montrachets, and still there in this satisfying Saint Veran. This humble appellation surrounds Pouilly Fuisse and overlaps the northern edge of Beaujolais; this country is for every-day wines, but there’s surprising complexity to be found here. Gooseberry, green apple, lemon curd and shortbread notes on the nose lead into a palate broad and lively, with a silky texture and clear notes of apple, mirabelle plum, lime zest and brioche all underpinned by the inimitable limestone-soil minerality of Burgundy’s finest vineyards. The finish echoes with touches of lemon and a saline note that invites the next bite of white fleshed fish or eggplant cassoulet.