Joana Maçanita makes some of the most compelling Douro Valley wine today. Growing up in Alentejo at her family’s once-traditionally minded Fitapreta estate, it was no sure bet that she would become a standard bearer of a new sort of Portuguese wine that takes terroir much more seriously. Where traditional Port wines demand the intense concentration of alcohol found at the river’s edge, Joana has made her name with grapes picked at the windy, exposed edges of the Douro river canyon. These grapes are difficult to access, ripen later, and rarely reach the levels or ripeness required for proper Port, but that suits Joana fine, because she seeks “freshness and minerality above all else.” Some of her wines command high prices and accolades, but here is a perfect introduction to her art, a mixture of Tauriga Nacional, Sousao and Tinta Roriz aged in stainless tanks that balances mineral tension with rich dark fruit flavors. The aroma starts with blackberry compote, blackcurrant, slate and clay soil, with a whiff of vanilla bean. The palate is medium bodied and filled with herbs and spices, black and purple and blueberries. Serve with barbecued meats or falafel.