Muscadet is a wine made of stone and salt. France’s Breton coast traditionally begins at the mouth of the Loire, and while the modern departments put Nantes in the Loire-Atlantique, it is still a city full of buckwheat Galettes, oysters, fish stews and Celtic motifs. Meanwhile, the jumbled granite shore that lines the coast of Morbihan and Finistere are broadly similar to the bedrock underneath the vines of Clisson and Les Gorges, two of Muscadet’s finest emerging Crus, and where Stephan and Vincent Perraud manage Domaine des Cognettes. Les Deux Terres is a barrel selection drawn from both these prized sites, and brilliantly captures the scent of granite bedrock and brine in the Atlantic air. Aromas of yellow apple, dragonfruit, and lemon curd are here too, before a full bodied palate tense with acid and well defined mineral notes. Powerfully strong flavors of apples and melons and lemons drift off to a delicately salty finish.