The eastern mid-slope of the Apennines is cut at regular intervals by river valleys that create natural wind tunnels, channeling air from the mountains to the Adriatic sea, a natural flow of fresh wind that creates ideal, even tempered conditions for growing grapes. In the middle ages the most prominent of these valleys were peppered with castles to protect the city of Ancona from invasion. Today those castles are known mostly for a little green grape that became nearly synonymous with the area, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Tenuta di Tavignano occupies one of the best quarters of the region, a high elevation site called “The balcony of the Marche” with great views across the landscape, and their entire estate is devoted to organic, regenerative farming. The Villa Torre bottling is a perfect example of this refreshing, balanced, peppery, green tinted wine. Aromas of peach, lime, and tangerine are accented with fresh rosemary, sage, and white pepper. The palate offers more citrus fruit with a note of mango with sun dried herbs that gather on the finish with a crisp zesting of granite minerals and a salty rim. This is a versatile food wine, but it’s at its best with seafood.