The eastern slope of the Apennines is cut at regular intervals by river valleys that create natural channels for air from the mountains to the Adriatic sea, a natural flow of fresh wind that creates ideal conditions for growing grapes. In the middle ages the most prominent of these valleys were peppered with castles to protect the city of Ancona from invasion. Today those castles are known mostly for a little green grape that became nearly synonymous with the area, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Tenuta di Tavignano occupies one of the best quarters of the region, a high elevation site called “The balcony of the Marche” with great views across the landscape, and their entire estate is devoted to organic, regenerative farming. The Villa Torre bottling is a perfect example of this refreshing green tinted wine. The impressively complex nose starts with apple and pear and meyer lemon, with white pepper and fresh sage, rosemary, and sea salt. The palate is pleasantly medium bodied, creamy and fresh lemon and white strawberry, plenty of red delicious apple before a salty finish. Zesty, strong, and refreshing stuff, and just like Gruner Veltliner it goes with most any sort of food, but it’s at its best with saltwater fish dishes.