Before you pull out a map to find Auxerre, Let us preface. This was once a vital source of Chardonnay for Paris, situated on a river network that gave Auxerre’s port the shortest route to the city of any wine region in France. Auxerre is right next to Chablis, and while today it is less densely planted, there are still vineyards in these softly rolling hills, and growers who did not abandon them when railroads connected Paris with the Loire and the Rhone. Pascal Sorin’s family remained: he is the 18th generation to make wine here, and he maintains a minimalist approach to making this bright, clear headed Chardonnay. Nothing is added, nothing is taken away, from the vine to the bottle, and the cool climate and clay and limestone soils give this wine unusual tension. It shows aromas lifted right out of the wine guide of apple butter, orange blossom, lemon curd and crème brûlée. The palate doubles down on the zesty orange and crisp lemon fruit, with salty brioche on the finish. There’s a creaminess to it but the acidity keeps the wine buoyant and crisp. A perfect match for roast chicken and mushroom cream dishes.