Pineau d’Aunis is a rare and specific grape variety that grows nowhere but along the banks of the Loir River north of Tours, in an appellation called the Coteaux du Vendomois. It’s quite cool here, but the river gives just enough warmth to temper the vines that hug the banks. The Colin family has been making wine in the area for eight generations; after all that practice they’ve just about nailed it. Patrice Colin farms a mix of Pineau d’Aunis, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Gamay on 25 hectares of organically tended vines. Domaine Colin wines are always spicy, but this red blend led by Pineau d’Aunis is particularly so, with aromas of white pepper, black raspberry, yellow clay, red strawberries, pipe smoke and rhubarb. The palate is sharply defined by burbling acidity and peppery tannins, supporting flavors of pepper and raspberry and chalky soil. Serve with peppery chicken, saucy pork, and charcuterie.