Les Pentes de Barene’s winery is in the tiny village of Pimbo, with one street and zero traffic lights. Nearby, the Adour river winds its way through clay and sandstone countryside laced with hills, forests, and farms on its way to Bayonne and the Atlantic Ocean. To the extent any appellations in France’s southwest are well known, Tursan isn’t one of them, though it abuts Madiran and Jurançon. For people more accustomed to looking for cities on maps, “a bit north of Pau” is as close as we can get. The rare white wine from Tursan is a blend based on the Baroque grape, found nowhere else. Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Sauvignon Blanc round out the other half of the blend. The wine always manages to combine clear-cut flavors with rich texture, reminiscent of nearby Jurancon. Look for lush aromas of grilled peaches, orange tarte tatin, strawberry, granite stone-ground mineral, holy basil. The palate is full, with creamy waves of orange and peach cobbler, with acidity like zest that bursts on the finish with fresh citrus notes. Lovers of Jurançon, Sancerre, and Alsace will find something to love in this wine, and if your next meal includes some sort of pâté, even better.