An hour southwest of Montpelier, there is a small hill called Mont-Saint-Clair on the edge of the Étange de Thau. Draped over the seaside face of the hill is the town of Sète, a small 18th century port town full of canals, wine bars, and restaurants featuring some of the freshest seafood in France. Sète is a hidden gem in Languedoc. Just across the water, Anaïs Ricome can see Mont-Saint-Clair from her vineyards at La Croix Gratiot, another hidden gem. She has been at the helm of her family’s winery since 2006, making Picpoul de Pinet to a high enough standard that the local moniker “Chablis of Languedoc” begins to make sense. The grapes are harvested at night and vinified in stainless steel to preserve freshness. In the nose we get apples with a dash of salt, jasmine and daffodils and fresh lemon zest. On the palate the bouncy acidity and crisp flavors of lemon and sea salt are accentuated with a touch of lees aging, similar to the treatment Muscadet gets in the Loire. Short of going to Sète for a plate of oysters, this will also do wonders with Sushi or Sashimi.