For Cabernet Franc fans, Bourgueil may be the most “Cabernet Franc” wine of all. It sets itself apart from neighboring Chinon with an extra flair of rough hewn earth. No aromas of black cherry or violet comes without a dusting of clay soil, tobacco, and tomato leaf. The texture of a good Bourgueil is defined by rough hewn tannins, unpolished by overuse of oak, and flavors come through of intense black fruit. If it’s a 2022 vintage Bourgueil from Domaine des Ouches, there are subtle notes of coffee grounds, cinnamon, and fresh black soil too. Thomas and Denis Gambier are the eighth generation of the family to work their Domaine in Ingrandes-de-Touraine, along Bourgueil’s eastern edge. Some of their vines are near 100 years old, and all of them are farmed using l'agriculture raisonnée principles, which means they spray chemical treatments only when absolutely necessary. This cuvee, named Igoranda for the ancient name of their home village, spends a year in large old barrels before release. This is a classic match for roasted meats and Chevre.