Jean Pascal Aubron has maintained his family domaine since 1983, following his father and grandfather. Like many of his neighbors, he makes both Muscadet and Gros Plant in his vineyards in the heart of Nantais wine country, vineyards he farms with minimal chemical input. A portion of his holdings are in the Clos de l’Audigere, one among many locally famous vineyards in the Nantais gaining recognition as ‘Crus’ of Muscadet country. The soil in this vineyard is called Gabbro, a volcanic rock that gives the wines here an especially strong mineral cut. Gros Plant – a local term for the Folle Blanche variety – hardly needs the help, but there’s no denying that the combination makes for a splendid wine. The aroma is a lemon-scented storm of lemon madeleines, crashing waves of sea salt and a lightning strike of smoky minerality. The palate comes with an electric shock of gooseberry and lemon flavored acidity running through a remarkably dense textured wine, thanks to extended lees stirring. This is a wine at its best with seafood, but light, leafy fare of many sorts would do just fine too.